HootHoot Plushie

Featured Crochet Pattern of the Day

September 23, 2009

August 20, 2009

HootHoot here was fun to make. He's a bit more complicated than most pokemon dolls, in that he has only one foot. The foot is weighted (I used unpopped popcorn, but any good weight material will work) and he does stand on his own with a little maneuvering. I hope you enjoy making HootHoot as much as I did. :)

As always, if you have any trouble with the pattern, feel free to comment or email me, I'll be more than happy to help.


MATERIALS:

WW yarn in warm brown, dark brown, tan and pumpkin
G hook
Fiberfill
Small amount of weight material (dried beans, unpopped popcorn, commercial weight pellets, etc)
Yarn Needle
Sewing threads to match yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:
Gauge isn't very important here, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a tight enough stitch to prevent the stuffing from showing through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.


BODY:

Using warm brown:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54)
Rnd 10-19: sc in each sc around (54)
Rnd 20: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 21: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)
Rnd 22: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 23: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 24: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Begin stuffing here if you haven 't already. Stuff the body firmly and shape as you stuff.
Rnd 25: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc aorund (18)
Rnd 26: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 27: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O leaving tail. Add any stuffing needed to firmly shape out the body, weave tail through final round of sc and pull tightly to close. Secure and weave in loose end.

BELLY SPOT:

Using tan:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc in each of next 2 sc (32)
Rnd 6: * sc in next 13 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next sc * repeat from * to * one time (40)
Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (48)
F/O leaving tail for sewing.

LEG: (make one)

Using pumpkin:

Rnd 1: Ch 16, join to form a ring. Sc in each ch around (16)
Rnd 2-3: sc in each sc around (16)
F/O leaving tail.

FOOT: (make one)

Using pumpkin:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 5: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)
Rnd 6: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (20)
Rnd 7: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in last sc (22)
Rnd 8: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (24)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (24)
Fill nearly full with weight material, add a small amount of fiberfill to help keep the weight material in while you sew. Flatten open end and going throu all layers, sc across the top (12 sc)
F/O and weave in end.

Attach tan yarn to corner of row just worked. * Ch 5. sl st in second ch from hook, sc next ch, hdc next ch, dc next ch. Skip next two sc, sl st in next sc *. Repeat from * to * three more times for a total of four 'talons'. F/O weave in end.

Sew the 'leg' to the foot as shown. Don't stuff the leg just yet. That will wait till assembly.

ARMS/WINGS (make 2):

Using warm brown:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (9)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (12)
F/O leaving tail for sewing. Do not stuff

EYES (make 2):

Using pumpkin:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
F/O pumpkin and attach dark brown
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc * ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 2 chs, sc in next 2 sc of round 2 * repeat from * to * twice more for a total of 3 'lashes'. sc in each sc around, join to first sc. F/O.

Pupils (make 2):

Using dark brown:

4 sc in Magic Ring. Join and F/O. Secure and weave ends. If desired sew pupils to eyes as shown (being sure of correct placement of pupil) using sewing thread (to prevent unwanted bulk). Sewing on pupils can also wait till final assembly so that position can be seen easier.

BEAK:

Using tan:

Row 1: ch 2, sc in first ch (1)
Row 2: 2 sc in sc (2)
Row 3: 2 sc in each sc (4)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Row 5: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Row 7-8: sc in each sc across (8)
Row 9: dec over first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)
Row 10: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 11: dec over first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)
Row 12: dec over first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (2)
Row 13: dec over 2 sc (1)
F/O and carefully weave end. Using length of tan with yarn needle, weave through evenly between rows 7 and 8 pull gently to lightly gather the center and create 'curve' of beak . Secure yarn leaving tail for sewing.


EYEBROWS (make 2):

Using dark brown:

(do not use a turning ch in this piece)

Row 1: Ch 3. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, do not ch 1, turn (2)
Row 2-10: sc in both sc, do not ch 1, turn (2)
Row 11: 2 sc in each sc (4)
Row 12: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Row 13: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 14: sc in first 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (5)
Row 15: sc in first 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)
Row 16: sc in first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (3)
Row 17: sc in first sc, dec over last 2 sc (2)
Row 18: dec over 2 sc (1)
F/O and weave end.


SKIRT/FRINGE:

Using tan:

Row 1: ch 19, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (18)
Row 2: * ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch. Skip 2 sc and sl st into next sc * repeat from * to * around, ending with sl st at base of first ch 4 for total of 6 points.
F/O, leaving tail for sewing.

TAIL PIECES (make 3):

Using warm brown:

Row 1: ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (4)
Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc across (5)
Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc across (6)
Row 4: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc across (7)
Row 6: sc in each sc across (7)
F/O weave in ends.


ASSEMBLY:

I *highly* recommend pinning all the pieces before sewing, to ensure proper placement. HootHoot is a little different in his construction, pinning first will be very helpful in getting all the pieces in their proper places.

Refer to photos to help with placement.

Belly spot is slightly oval shaped, place the spot so that a smaller end is in front, and slightly 'up' from center.

Stuff the leg *very firmly* and place at the bottom of the body (it won't be centered on the oval). The weighted foot will aid HootHoot in standing on its own, but this pokemon is a rather top heavy doll, little can be done about that because of his shape. The weight should at least help some though.

'Skirt' is sewn at the top of the leg to the belly spot as 'fringe feathers' (see pictures)

Eyes are placed as shown, with pupils facing down and inward, towards beak. Beak is sewn between the eyes, just above the belly spot.

Eyebrows are sewn between the eyes at the top of the beak. Leave the upper portion of the eyebrows free as shown.

Wings should be flattened and sewn to sides of body as shown. Wings are not stuffed.

Tail pieces are sewn as shown. Two placed side by side and one placed in the center of the first two just in front of them, on the back side just above where the other end of the belly spot ends.



HootHoot and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (July 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Oddish Plushie

August 20, 2009

Here's the Oddish that so many people have asked for. My girls love it so much, it took me two days to find her when I was finished, so that I could get pictures. The girls had her in the middle of their huge collection of stuffed things I've made for them, LOL.

I should also apologize for the picture, I can't seem to locate the good camera either, I know we put it somewhere, but as of now we can't find it. I'll try to get a better picture when we do though!

On to the pattern:



MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue and green
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Small scraps of light-red or red felt

BODY:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7-13: Sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 14: sc next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 15: sc next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 16: sc next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Begin stuffing at his point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly and shape it as you go.
Rnd 17: sc next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)
Rnd 18: dec over next 2 sc around (8)

F/ O

FEET:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3-9: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O, leaving tail. Stuff *very* lightly. Sew opening shut with yarn needle (flatten the end, and sew thru all layers).

LEAVES:

(make 5)

Do not chain 1 when turning. Be sure to work first stitches in the very last sc made in previous row. This is help to create a much smoother and more filled in edge to the leaves.

Row 1: ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook (1)
Row 2: 2 sc in sc (2)
Row 3: 2 sc in each sc (4)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Row 5: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Row 7-9: sc in each sc across (8)
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across (7)
Row 11: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across (6)
Row 12: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across (5)
Row 13: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across (4)
Row 14: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across (3)
Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across (2)
Row 16: dec over remaining 2 sc (1)

F/O leaving long tail. Weave tail down thru center of leaf to other end using yarn needle. If you want a pronounced vein down the center of the leaf, you can backstitch down the center of the leaf instead of weaving it.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Sew feet to bottom of body as shown. Sew leaves to top center of body in the order shown. 1 in front, 2 laying to either side immediately behind first leaf, 2 more standing and slightly leaning outwards behind the second two leaves. (see picture for better reference)

Cut two small circles and a mouth from red felt. See picture to help you with approximate sizes and shape for eyes and mouth. Glue or sew in place.


Oddish and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (July 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Sunkern Plushie

August 20, 2009

Sunkern is one of the lesser known pokemon, but he's cute none-the-less. He was also quite fun to make, and didn't really take a very long time either.


Sunkern


Materials:

WW yarn in yellow and a nice leaf green
G Hook
Felt pieces in black, white and brown
Yarn needle
Sewing needle and thread to match felts
Fiberfill
One chenille stem (pipe cleaner) 12 inches long

Notes:

Gauge doesn't really matter in this pattern, as long as your choice of yarn and hook size result in a fairly tight stitch so that stuffing wont show through.

Number in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.


BODY:
Using Yellow and G hook:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7-20: Sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 21: sc next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 22-23: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 24: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 25: *Ch 6, sl st in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in last ch. Skip 3 sc, sl st in next sc* repeat * to * 7 more times (8 points)

F/0 and stuff firmly while shaping.

TOP:

Using yellow:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

F/O leaving tail for sewing. Make sure that body is firmly stuff and shaped as desired, place top piece over the opening of the body and sew to body at rnd 24 (leaving the points free as shown in the pictures)


STEM:

Using green:

Row 1:Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (12)
Row 2 and 3: sc in each sc across (12)

F/0 leaving tail for sewing.

Fold chenille stem in half and twist tightly, fold in half again and twist tightly again. Fold crochet stem piece in half lengthwise and sew neatly over the folded chenille stem. Then sew stem to very center of top piece as shown.


LEAVES:

Make 2 using Green:

Row 1: ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook. (1)
Row 2: 2 sc in sc (2)
Row 3: 2 sc in each sc (4)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Row 5: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Row 7-9: sc in each sc across (8)
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across (7)

Repeat row 10 until 1 sc remains. F/O Leaving long tail. With yarn needle, weave the tail down the center of the leaf to create a 'vein'... sew each leaf to the stem securely as shown.

Cut three one inch wide strips of felt in brown. On one end cut two notches to resemble the pieces as shown in the picture, on the other end, cut to a slightly rounded point. Check that the length will be right with the body. The strips are placed with one in the center, and the two side strips are crossed over at the very bottom, (see pictures above) I recommend pinning all three strips on the body before sewing. Once satisfied with the placement, sew on securely using matching sewing thread.

Cut 2 one inch circles from black, position them as shown and pin. Embroider mouth as shown centered above the middle strip. Sew on the black circles for eyes, add two very tiny circles of white felt as 'catch lights' in the eyes (see pictures).

If necessary, adjust the size of the strips and eyes to best fit your Sunkern. Since everyone's gauge can be different, be sure that you have the strips the right size before sewing them to the body.


Sunkern and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.