Meowth Plushie

I had to do Meowth eventually.  I put it off forever because I have the worst problems with mouths... and I have at least a dozen 'Meowth mouths' on my worktable that didn't make the cut.   I'm still not very happy with that one,  but maybe one of you talented crafters will be able to make a better one :D.

I adore Meowth because he's scrappy and intelligent and just generally fun to watch in action.  

As always,  if you find any problems with the pattern,  please let me know,  I'll fix it as soon as I can and if you have any questions just post 'em :)

MATERIALS:

WW yarn buff, medium brown, dark brown and small amount of gold
G Hook
Fiberfill
White, black and red felt scraps

NOTES:

Gauge isn't really important,  just make sure that your yarn choice and hook choice result in a fairly tight stitch so that stuffing won't show through. 

Numbers at the end of each rnd/row in ( ) are the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.

Read through the entire pattern before beginning to get familiar with how the pattern comes together.


HEAD:
using buff:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (56)
Rnd 9-15:  sc in each sc around  (56)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (49)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Begin stuffing here, and continue to stuff as you go.  Stuff firmly shaping the head as you stuff.
Rnd 20:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 21:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 22:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook,  finish adding any stuffing you need and shape.  Weave in the tail and pull to close.

BODY:
using buff:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7-18:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Begin stuffing here, stuff firmly while shaping.  Continue stuffng as you go.
Rnd 20:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 22:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish out the shaping.

ARMS:
using buff: make 2

Rnd 1:  9 sc in magic ring  (9)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 3-5:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 6:  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)
Rnd 7-16:  sc in each sc around  (9)
F/O,  stuff arms to wrist,  leave 'paws' unstuffed.

Using dark brown yarn and yarn needle,  make 'claws' (two on each paw)  see photos to help with placement.

FEET:
Using medium brown: (make 2)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 4-10:  sc in each sc around  (change to buff yarn in last stitch of round 10)  (15)
Rnd 11-14:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Begin stuffing here.  Stuff moderately firm.  Continue to stuff as you go.
Rnd 15:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 16:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O leaving tail.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping.  Don't overstuff.  Weave tail through last round and pull to close.

LEGS:
Using buff: (make 2)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  working in Back Loops Only for this round,  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 4-7:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O and stuff leg moderately firmly.  Don't overstuff. 

Sew the 'closed' end of the leg to the top of the foot at the back  (see photos for help with placement) 

Using dark brown yarn and yarn needle,  make 'claws' (two on each foot) see photos for help.

EARS:
Using Dark Brown: (make 2)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next  sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 8-10:  sc in each sc around  (18)
F/O.  Do not stuff,  flatten ear.

Ear INSET:
Using med brown: (make 2)

Row 1:  Ch 6,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (5)
Row 2:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 3:  sc in first 3 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
Row 4:  sc in first 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (3)
Row 5:  sc in first sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (2)
Row 6:  dec over 2 sc  (1)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Position and sew the 'inset' to the center bottom of the ear  (see photo for placement)

TAIL:
Using buff:

Rnd 1:  9 sc in magic ring  (9)
Rnd 2:  working in Back Loops Only for this round,  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-9:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already.  Stuff tail moderately firmly.  Don't overstuff.
Rnd 11:  sc in each sc around,  change to medium brown in last stitch of round  (12)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 17:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O leaving tail.  Finish adding stuffing if needed to complete shape.  Don't stuff the end too firmly.  Weave tail through final round and pull to close,   using tail,  curl the end around on itself  (see photos)  and secure.  Weave in ends.


CHARM:
using gold color yarn:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (8)
Rnd 3-9:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Rnd 10:  dec over next 2 sc around  (4)
F/O,  do not stuff.  Flatten charm.   Using dark brown thread or embroidery floss,  create lines every other row of the charm  (see photo).  Those lines are purely optional,  but the charm on Meowth has them,  so I added them.


WHISKERS:
Using buff:

Make 2 of the following  (these go at the top of the head between his ears)

Row1:  Ch 13,  slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs.  Sc in next 6 chs,  HDC in last 3 chs. 
F/O

Make 4 of the following:

Row 1:  Ch 11,  slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs.  Sc in next 5 chs,  HDC in last 2 chs.  F/O

ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning parts together before you sew,  to make sure you have them in the placement you want before making it permanent. 

Sew head to neck of body.  Sew arms to sides of body,  making sure that the paws are both facing the right way.  Sew legs to bottom of body,  either in sitting or standing positions.  Sew ears to the top of the head as shown,  charm goes between his ears so that it stands up.  Sew the 'whiskers' to the head...  the two longer whiskers go on top of the head between the ears,  the other four are sewn to the sides of the head as shown.

Using paper,  cut out facial features before using felt ...  it will save you ALOT of time.  Pin the facial features on before sewing,  to make sure you have the right sizes and placements.  The mouth is outlined with dark brown yarn as shown.

Don't forget to cut out and sew on his little fangs...  he's just not meowth without the hardware!

I positioned his paws up by his face...  my girls wanted him that way, and I like it...  he looks kind of like he's about to pounce on you.  Any way you make him,  Meowth is just adorable  :)

MEOWTH and POKEMON are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Natu Plushie

Natu is a cute pokemon,  he has these big eyes like a night-hawk that were very hard to get right lol.  I tried to make the wings all crochet,  but it just wouldn't work at this size,  I would have to make him much bigger to get that to work,  so his wing details are felt strips instead.

As always,  if you have any troubles with him,  or find anything wrong in the pattern,  let me know :)

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in green, yellow, light red
G Hook
Scraps of felt in white and black
Fiberfill

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important,  just ensure that your hook and yarn sizes result in a fairly tight stitch that won't allow the fiberfil to show thru.

Numbers at the end of rounds/rows indicate the total number of stitches that should be in the round/row.

BODY:  Using green:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8-14:  sc in each sc around  (49)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (28)

Being stuffing at this point and continue as you go along.

Rnd 18:  sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 19:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 20:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)

F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook,  finish adding any stuffing you need and shape to a ball.  Weave in the tail and pull to close.

WINGS:

Begin with yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (9)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 3-5:  sc in each sc around  (in last sc of rnd 5,  change to light red yarn and then join round) (18)
Rnd 6-11:  sc in each sc around
Rnd 12:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)

Cut six strips of black felt  approx 1/4 inch wide and 5 inches long.   Using photos as a guide,  glue/sew the strips of felt to the wings as shown.

CREST:

Using light red:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2-10:  sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc
F/O.


BEAK:

Using yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (18)
F/O.

FEET:

Make 4 using light red:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  * Ch 5,  sc 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs,  sc in next sc*  repeat * to * once more, 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc, Ch 5,  hdc 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O and weave in ends

Place two of the 'feet' together with the wrong sides to the inside,  sew together with a whipstitch round the sides,  using a piece of the light red yarn and a yarn needle.

LEG: 

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  working in Back Loops Only,  sc in each sc round  (6)
Rnd 3:  working now through both loops,  sc in each sc around  (6)
F/O.

Sew the leg to the foot as shown in photo,  with the open side of the leg facing up.  Stuff leg firmly.

TAIL:

Row 1:  ch 3,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch  (2)
Row 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 3:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 4:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 5:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 6:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 7-9:  sc in each sc across.
F/O and weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY:

Using photos as reference assistance for placing parts...  crest is sewn to head just slightly back from center.  Legs are sewn to body at bottom.  Wings are sewn to sides as shown.  Tail is sewn to lower center of back.  Sew 2 of the tail pieces next  to each other,  then one piece centered over the two.  Beak is sewn to face as shown.

Eyes are made as shown,  by cutting an almond shape from white felt and circles from black.  (Use paper first and pin the paper to the doll's face to make sure you get the size of eye shape you want).   Once eyes are sewn or glued to face as desired,  cut two very small circles of white felt and glue/sew to eyes as shown for catch lights.

Finally,  cut four elongated triangles from white felt and sew to the 'toes' for talons.


Natu and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Pink HandWarmers

This pattern was a special request from one of my deviantART friends.   I designed these quite some time ago for my 15 year old daughter,  well I designed about a dozen different hand warmers for her,  since she wears them all the time so I have many patterns for these.

I like wearing hand warmers too,  I have severe rheumatoid arthritis and the added warmth from wearing these (especially when I'm sleeping)  keeps my hands from getting as stiff or sore.... Now if I could just figure out a way to make a 'hip warmer' for my left hip  LOL

Hand Warmers

These hand warmers fit a small adult or teenager's hand.  You can increase the overall size by increasing the number of rows at the wrist/cuff.  Then simply follow the pattern (adding the appropriate number of stitches to the ( ) at the end of each row.

For instance,  if you increase the wrist/cuff size by 2 rows,  then the number of stitches at the beginning of the 'hand' portion will increase by two,  the total number of stitches in the increase rows will increase by two.

After making a few of these,  you get a good feeling for the pattern's 'theory'  and can easily increase or decrease the sizes as you need them.

Using a G hook and your favorite WW yarn :

Wrist/Cuff

Row 1:  ch 6,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining chs,  (5)
Row 2,  working in back loops only,  sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 3-28:  repeat row 2  (5)
Do not fasten off.  Bring both ends of the cuff together and slip stitch carefully to end of the row.  Turn and work 28 sc evenly around the cuff,  (one sc in the end of each row),  join the round to the first sc

You now have a 'ring'  with a total of 28 sc topping of your ribbed cuff.  You will need to join your rounds with a slip stitch in the first sc of each round,  then Ch 1 to begin next round

Right hand warmer:

Rnd 1:  sc in same sc as join and each sc around  (28)
Rnd 2:  sc in same sc as join,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,   2 sc in next to last sc, and sc in last sc of round,  join and ch 1  (30)
Rnd 3:  repeat round 1  (30)
Rnd 4:  repeat round 2  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  repeat round 1  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 22 sc,  ch 4,  skip 8 sc,  sc in last 2 sc  (24 sc,  4 ch )
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc and each ch around,  (28)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 15:  sc in first sc, * ch 2,  skip one sc,  sc in next sc *,  repeat from * to *  around,  end with ch2 and slip stitch in first sc.
Rnd 16:  slip stitch to ch 1 sp.    ch 3,  slip stitch in next ch 1 sp,  * ch 2,  slip stitch in  next ch 1 sp *, repeat from * to * 1 more time.    Try on the hand warmer  (make sure you put it on the right hand)  look and see where the 'finger loop' will need to be  (it's different for each person),  mark that sp,  and continue around  as before  to marked space,  sc in that space,  ch 11,  sc in same space,  ch 2 and continue to end of round,  end with ch 2 and slip stitch in first slip stitch.
F/O and weave in ends.

Left hand warmer:

Work cuff as above.

Rnd 1:  sc in same sc as join and each sc around  (28)
Rnd 2:  sc in same sc as join,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,   2 sc in next to last sc, and sc in last sc of round,  join and ch 1  (30)
Rnd 3:  repeat round 1  (30)
Rnd 4:  repeat round 2  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  repeat round 1  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 2 sc,  ch 4,  skip 8 sc,  sc in last 22 sc  (24 sc,  4 ch )
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc and each ch around,  (28)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 15:  sc in first sc, * ch 2,  skip one sc,  sc in next sc *,  repeat from * to *  around,  end with ch2 and slip stitch in first sc.
Rnd 16:  slip stitch to ch 1 sp.    ch 3,  slip stitch in next ch 1 sp,  * ch 2,  slip stitch in  next ch 1 sp *, repeat from * to * 1 more time.    Try on the hand warmer  (make sure you put it on the left hand)  look and see where the 'finger loop' will need to be  (it's different for each person),  mark that sp,  and continue around  as before  to marked space,  sc in that space,  ch 11,  sc in same space,  ch 2 and continue to end of round,  end with ch 2 and slip stitch in first slip stitch.
F/O and weave in ends.

If you find you have any problems with this pattern feel free to email me or post a message here,  I'll get back to you as soon as I possibly can  :)

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.  Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Luigi Plushie

Well, I knew it had to happen.

I'm sitting here, working hard on new patterns, and there sits Mario, alone, waiting, occasionally tapping his foot and staring me down. Ok, ok... I get it! You want Luigi, right? Well yes, he did... so being a good little doll-maker, I obliged him his request.

Here's Luigi... companion doll to my Mario Plushie.

He's somewhat like Mario in construction, but obviously there are some differences. Read the pattern through before starting to see where the changes are.

As always, if you run into any trouble, send me a message and I'll get back to you as soon as I can! :D


MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue, green, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black)
2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it)
Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle


NOTES:

Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll


HEAD (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (33)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (33)
Rnd 13: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along.
Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 16: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 18: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


NOSE (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape.


EARS:

(using peach, make 2)

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3)
Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7)
Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7)
F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape)


MUSTACHE:

(using black)

ch 12, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, hdc in next ch, 2 dc in next 2 ch, dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, slip stitch in last 2 chs.
F/O weave in ends. using sewing thread, pinch the middle of the mustache and secure with thread.


BODY (starting with blue):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc. In last stitch, change to green yarn (32)
Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24)
Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 1 sc (12)
Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open.


HANDS/ARMS (starting with white):

(hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb')
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach green yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.

(alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach green yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.


SUSPENDERS (using blue):

Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2)
Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2)
F/O Weave in ends.


LEGS/FEET:

Legs (using blue, make 2)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around. (16)
F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end.

Feet (using brown, make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 11: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desigreen. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body)


HAT:

(using green)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (52)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (52)
Rnd 9: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 10: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc aorund (42)
Rnd 11: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end)
Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36)
F/O and weave in ends.

Brim/bill of hat:

Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12)
Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12)
Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12)
Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10)
Do not turn.

Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends


HAT LOGO:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
F/O weave in ends.

Cut an L from green felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper L as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat)


SIDE BURNS:

(Using brown, make 2)

Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2)
Row 2: sc in both sc (2)
Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1)
F/O weave in ends.


HAIR:

(using black)

Row 1: ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch.
F/O



ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.

Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centegreen on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head.

Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown.

Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'.

Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown.

Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention.



Luigi and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.