All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D

All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Chain-Chomp


This is Chain-Chomp from the Mario Brothers games. I made this because my middle daughter begged me to. LOL. When writing out the pattern for it, I tried to make it as plain as possible, but I'm still learning how to write out patterns for someone other than myself to read, so bear with me. If anything is confusing, please let me know and I'll do my best to explain or change it.

If the cube portion of the pattern just isn't working for you, you can always make a cube by crocheting 6 squares that are 3 to 4 inches in size and sew them together to form a cube. I just like the look of the one piece cube better, but either is just fine.


CHAIN-CHOMP

Materials:

WW black, grey, white and red yarns
G Hook
Small amount of white felt
Thread to match the felt
Yarn Needle
Fiberfil


NOTES:

This pattern requires a little more advanced work than most of the patterns I have to date. Some of the pieces require more manipulation to fit and the general stuffing process is different. With patience though, even beginning crocheters should be able to make Chain-Chomp. I'll do my best to explain the steps as clearly and as simply as I can.

Gauge isn't really important, but your hook, yarn and natural tension should combine to create a moderately tight stitch.

I tried using continuous rounds on this pattern, but it just doesn't work out as well due to it's nature. The cube *can* be worked in continuous rounds, but I found that the cube tended to become lopsided in places because of the need for it to be even on all sides. I recommend joining rounds on this pattern, but if you're more comfortable using continuous rounds, by all means do so.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round/row.


BODY

Using black yarn, make two half domes as follows:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (36)

F/O.

Sew the two half domes together for 18 stitches, leaving the remainder of stitches unworked. This should give you a *pac-man* looking shape with a gaping 'mouth'. Set aside for now.


MOUTH:

Using red yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

F/O

Fold this piece in half, and insert into the 'mouth' of the body. Lining up the stitches, sew the mouth to the body with the 'fold' to the inside. Stuff carefully as you go, making sure that you stuff enough to round out the body, but not to overstuff, so that the mouth still remains 'folded' and inside the body of the chomp. This may require some 'easing' of the mouth piece into the body pieces. In the end, you should have a toothless 'ball with a mouth'.


TEETH:

Make 2 using white:

Row 1: Ch 21, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, DC in same ch. (Skip 2 chs, sl st, ch 3, dc together in the next ch) repeat the instructions in the ( ) to end. F/O

Sew the 'teeth strips' to the opening of the mouth as shown in the picture. Pin them first, to help decide exact placement. A little easing of the strips my be necessary to fit them.

(NOTE: Some may find that using an F hook to make the teeth will result in a better fit. You may need to 'stretch' the base of the strip a bit to fit it, but that's ok in most cases. A little experimentation never hurts!)


CHAIN:

Using gray yarn:

Ch 16. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end. Sl st the two ends together. (I also recommend using grey sewing thread and re-inforcing where the two ends meet on all the chain links)

Repeat for next link, before closing insert through last link (creating the 'chain') then sew closed and make next link. Make the chain as long or as short as you like.

CUBE:

Cube is worked in one piece. It's a little different than working a ball in rounds, the increases and decreases are different, but similar enough that it should be possible even for beginners with a little patience. I recommend joining your rounds, but if you are comfortable enough using continuous rounds, it's worth a try.

[Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.]

Using gray yarn:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4)

Rnd 2: ch 1 3 sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. *3 sc next sc. sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21)

Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28)

Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 2 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round ( 36)

Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 7-18: sc in each sc around joining each round with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 19: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (36)

Rnd 20: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. * Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (28)

You probably will need to begin stuffing cube at this point (if you haven't already), and continue as you progress. Take care to stuff so that the shape of a cube is retained with minimum bulging of the sides (some bulging is natural) See the picture for references.

Rnd 21: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc 2 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (21)

Rnd 22: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 23: c1 Dec3 over next 3 sc around join with sl st to first sc of round (4).

F/O leaving tail for finishing off.

Using the blunt end of crochet hook, chopstick or eraser end of pencil, add any stuffing necessary to finish out cube shape. With yarn needle, weave the tail through the last 4 stitches of final round and pull to tighten. Tie off. Weave in end.


FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Attach chain to back of chomp and to one side of cube.

With white felt, cut two circles and with black felt cut two smaller circles. (on mine, I used a quarter for the white circles and a dime for the black ones, your circles may need to be larger or smaller, depending on your tension and yarn used, but those sizes are a good starting point) Sew the black circles to the center of the white ones as shown in the picture and then to the face of chomp.



Chain-chomp is copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (April 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

PLUSLE AND MINUN



Featured Crochet Pattern of the Day


June 29, 2009

Plusle and Minun are two of the 'helping pokemon'. They're very cute and energetic and make very sweet little dolls. The girls really enjoy playing with them :) The patterns are below and as always if you find any problems, please don't hesitate to let me know, I'll fix it as soon as possible.


PLUSLE AND MINUN

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in off-white (or a light beige), medium blue and medium red
F Hook
Scraps of felt in white, black, red and light orange or yellow
Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match felt colors
Fiberfill

NOTES:

The pattern has only one set of 'body part' instructions, because the two dolls are identical in their basic forms. The differences are in the colors and the tails (and the markings on the cheek patches) Those are all detailed as needed.

Gauge isn't very important here. Just make sure that your needle, yarn and tension combine to leave fairly tight and consistent stitches so that the fiberfill won't come through. I also recommend that you use the 'invisible decrease' (working decrease stitches in front loops only). It's not entirely invisible, but it does reduce or eliminate the gaps that regular decreases create when working in rounds.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round/row.


HEAD (make 2):

Using off white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 9-13: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 14: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 15: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 16: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Begin stuffing about this point if you haven't done so already.

Rnd 17: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 20: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving tail, add any stuffing to finish filling out the head. Weave the tail through the last round worked and pull to close.


BODY (make 2):

Using off white:

Repeat rounds 1-7 of HEAD.

Rnd 8-11: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 13-14: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 16-17: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 19: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 21: sc in each sc around (18)

F/O and stuff moderately firm, leaving opening at neck as is for now.


ARMS (make 4):

Begin with the med red for 2 arms, and med blue for 2 arms:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around, change to off-white in last or joining sc (12)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14)

Rnd 7-10: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 11: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (12)

Beginning shoulder:

Rnd 13: sc in 6 sc, turn (remaining stitches are left unworked) Do not ch 1. (6)

Rnd 14: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across, turn. Do not ch 1. (5)

Rnd 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across, turn. Do not ch 1. (4)

F/O Stuff moderately firm. Do not close opening


LEGS (make 4):

Using off-white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around (15)

Begin hip:

Row 9: sc in next 7 sc. Turn (leave remaining stitches unworked) Do not ch 1. (7)

Row 10: dec over the first 2 sc, sc in remaining stitches across, turn. Do not ch 1. (6)

Row 11: dec over the first 2 sc, sc in remaining stitches across (5)

F/O. Stuff moderately firm. Do not close opening.


EARS (make 4):

Begin with med red for 2 ears, and med blue for 2 ears:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 5-15: sc in each sc around (15)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, continue stuffing as needed.

Rnd 16: dec over next 2 sc around, sc in last sc changing to off-w1ite in last sc (or joining st) (8)

Rnd 17-19: sc in each sc around (8)

F/O


TAILS:

PLUSLE:

Using med red make 4 cross pieces:

Row 1: Ch 12. Sc in second ch from hook, and each ch across (11)

Row 2-3: sc in each sc across (11)

F/O

Cross two of the strips into a plus sign and sew together. Take both cross pieces and sew together stuffing lightly where needed (see picture for reference).

Using off-white:

Rnd 1: Ch 8, join to make a ring and sc in each chain around. (8)

Rnd 2-4: sc in each sc around (8)

F/O sew tube to center of one side of the cross and stuff moderately. Do not close the open end.


MINUN:

Using med blue:

Row 1: Ch 12, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (11)

Row 2-6: sc in each ch across (11)

F/O Fold in half lengthwise and sew closed, stuffing as you sew.

Using off-white, make another tube as with the tail for Plusle, sew to the center of one side of the stuffed strip and stuff moderately. Do not close the open end.

CHEEK PATCHES:

Make 2 in med red and 2 in med blue:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)


ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend that you pin all the pieces together before sewing. The ears should tilt slightly backwards. While sewing on the arms and legs, lightly stuff the 'shoulder' and 'hip' flaps as you sew. Cut a minus sign and a plus sign from a piece of white felt . The signs should fit just inside the ridge of the last round of the cheek patch. Sew cheek patchs onto face using photo for placement. Add small ovals for eyes, with tiny circles of white felt added to the ovals at the 10 o'clock position for catchlights. After sewing on the mouth and eyes, sew on a nose by taking a few small whip stitches just above the mouth. For Minun, embroider a mouth as shown and then add the nose.



Plusle, Minun and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Tips line #1 - Take your time!

I've had alot of requests for tips and ideas on making plushies. I have alot of them, but if you asked me what is the one most important thing about making plushies it would be the one that is the simplest in its concept, but the most difficult in its application: TAKE YOUR TIME.

I know how hard it is to slow down when you're excited about seeing the results. You've worked carefully and diligently on creating the various parts, you've followed the pattern to the letter - and now you just want to see it finished! But this is most often the biggest mistake we make.

In nearly every pattern I post or write, I state that I highly recommend taking the time to pin all the parts on before you sew any of them on. Think about this: if you were sewing together a dress, you wouldn't sew it together until you had pinned it together - and the same applies to making plushies.

What will pinning do for you? Well first and foremost, it lets you see whether you've gotten all the parts done correctly and that they all fit together. Secondly, it will allow you to gauge exactly how you want the parts positioned... arms further apart, legs higher up, head turned to one side a little.... it gives you room to make your plushie unique and special.

What kind of pins you use is up to you (or just what you have). I like using the longer straight pins with the plastic ball ends. Pinning crochet with the standard short, flat headed pins can be difficult, not to mention the pins are easily lost in your pieces. Try to pick pins with colors that can be easily seen against the color of the pieces you're working on... white on white isn't as easy to see.

After you have all your pieces pinned on, set your piece down somewhere highly visible and just look at it. View it from all sides and from different distances (sometimes a few feet back makes placement mistakes very visible). Don't hesitate to re-pin a part and then back up and look again. Sometimes I'll just look at a pinned plushie for a couple of days, because *something* isn't right, I just can't figure out what exactly it is. After a day or two of re-pinning and looking at it, I find the problem. It's amazing what one arm being an eighth of an inch too high or low can do to the over-all appearance of the finished plushie.

Once you're certain you have it like you want the finished plushie to look, then sew. Sewing order is up to you, I tend to start with the larger pieces, and work my way thru to the smallest. This way, I can make any last minute adjustments to the smaller pieces , in the event that I see the need for it.

Take your pins out as you sew. Leave the other pins in till you reach them. This way, your manipulations while sewing won't cause the part you are sewing to go all crooked. Try using a 'curved' sewing needle for sewing on those difficult right-angle pieces like arms and legs. You can buy them easily in any sewing dept, they're usually in the quilting or upholstery sections. Those needles are one of the more handy items to use, I have several and use them on every plushie. They help you to sew the parts on, without as much bending or moving, and that results in fewer 'crooked' parts.

Finally, when you've sewn all your parts and pieces ... don't forget to check that all the pins have been removed! It's not the surprise one wants when hugging a lovely plushie, to end up being stabbed by a wayward pin. I should know, I'm the one that got stabbed when I forgot to remove all the pins. :)

For alot of people, I know that slowing down and taking these extra steps sounds like torture. But impatience is "Public Enemy: #1" when it comes to sewing your plushies together. Don't let the enemy win! Steele yourself to the knowledge that by slowing down, pinning, evaluating and re-pinning and only then sewing.... you'll end up with more of the perfect plushies you work so hard to make and you'll always be happier with your results!

Have fun... and "Plush on!"

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

BOMBOMB

This little fella I made for me! I filled it halfway with unpopped popcorn kernals, so it's well weighted and it's my new paper-weight. He's Bomomb, from the Mario Bros. games. I always kinda liked him LOL

BOMBOMB

Materials:

WW yarn in black, grey and gold
G Hook
Fiberfill (and some unpopped popcorn or plastic filler pellets if you would like to make it into a paperweight)
Tiny bits of white felt
Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match felt


NOTES:

Gauge isn't really important here, as long as you ensure that your hook, yarn and tension result in a fairly tight stitch. Using different yarn types and hooks can give interesting results and make a larger or smaller plush.

I highly recommend using the 'invisible decrease' especially when working in the round. While it's not completely invisible, it does help to reduce the gaps that concentric decreases tends to leave behind. Overall, it just ends up looking alot neater.

You can work in joined rounds or continuous rounds, whichever is most comfortable for you.


BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-10: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 11: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Begin stuffing at this point and continue as work progresses. If you want to make a paperweight, add unpopped popcorn OR plastic weight pellets to about half way up and finish the rest with fiberfill.

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around. Switch to grey yarn in last (or joining) sc (12)

Rnd 15: Working in Front Loops Only, sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 16-17: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O and leave tail. Stuff the neck to the top, but do not close.

CAP

Using grey:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

F/O

Ch 9, sl st in each ch to end, tie off and 'attach' to the center of the cap for a fuse.

Sew the cap with fuse to the neck as shown.


WIND UP KEY:

Ch 19. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end, sl st to form a 'ring'. F/O

Bend ring in the middle and secure into a 'figure 8 shape'


FEET:

Using gold:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around to last sc, sc in last sc. F/O

Feet are not stuffed, but just flattened out.


ASSEMBLY:

Sew feet to the bottom, using photo as a guide. Sew the wind-up key to the middle of the back.

Cut two small oval shapes for eyes from white felt. I recommend using plain paper first and pinning on the doll to make sure of size and placement. Once you have it like you want it, sew the felt eyes on.


This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

ELECTRODE


Electrode is another cute but simple to make Pokemon. He's the evolved form of Voltorb and is a little bigger. Also with Electrode, the white part is the upper half, while with Voltorb, the red part is on top.

ELECTRODE


Materials:
WW yarn in red, black and white
F hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Scraps of felt in white and black
Sewing thread to match the felt colors

NOTES:

Gauge isn't really important here, as long as you ensure that your hook, yarn and tension result in a fairly tight stitch. Using different yarn types and hooks can give interesting results and make a larger or smaller plush.

I highly recommend using the 'invisible decrease' especially when working in the round. While it's not completely invisible, it does help to reduce the gaps that concentric decreases tends to leave behind. Overall, it just ends up looking alot neater.


Starting with white yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54)

Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)

Rnd 11-14: sc in each sc around, change to black in last (or joining) sc (60)

Rnd 15: sc in each sc around, change to red in last (or joining ) sc (60)

Rnd 16-19: sc in each sc around (60)

Rnd 20: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (54)

Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 22: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 23: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 24: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Begin stuffing at this point, if you haven't already, and continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 25: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 26: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 27: dec in next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving a long tail. Add any stuffing needed to finish out the shape, weave the tail through the last round and pull to close. Weave in ends.

Cut white felt to the mouth shape, using photo as a guide. Cut small oval shapes for the eyes with black felt. I'd advise using plain paper first, and pin it on to make sure you have the size and shape you want. Once you have the felt sewn on, using black yarn, embroider the the 'brows' above the eyes.

Electrode and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Voltorb


Voltorb is a cute but simple pokemon to make. He always seems grumpy, but I guess if people were always mistaking me for a pokeball, I'd be a little grumpy too!


VOLTORB
Materials:
WW yarn in red, black and white
F hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Scraps of felt in white and black
Sewing thread to match the felt colors

NOTES:
Gauge isn't really important here, as long as you ensure that your hook, yarn and tension result in a fairly tight stitch. Using different yarn types and hooks can give interesting results and make a larger or smaller plush.
I highly recommend using the 'invisible decrease' especially when working in the round. While it's not completely invisible, it does help to reduce the gaps that concentric decreases tends to leave behind. Overall, it just ends up looking alot neater.
Starting with red yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around, change to black in last (or joining) sc (48)
Rnd 12: sc in each sc around, change to white in last (or joining ) sc (48)
Rnd 13-15: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 16: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)
Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Begin stuffing at this point, continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 19: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 21: sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 22: dec in next 2 sc around (6)
F/O leaving a long tail. Add any stuffing needed to finish out the shape, weave the tail through the last round and pull to close. Weave in ends.

Cut white felt to the eye shape, using photo as a guide. I'd advise using plain paper first, and pin it on to make sure you have the size and shape you want. Once you have the felt sewn on, using black yarn, embroider the the 'brows' above the eyes. Cut a very small circle out of black felt and place on the eyes for pupils, again using the photo as a guide.

Voltorb and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Creative slumps, flags and other stuff

I'm in a slump. I hate slumps. For one thing, just the word is distasteful. But mostly everything about it is annoying.

I usually make something because I'm inspired to make it, but I have nothing 'inspirational' going on right now. Easter is kinda lame (sorry but it's true)... everyone makes cute little bunnies and bonnets and so many eggs we should all be dead from clogged arteries by now. Not that I don't like Easter I do, it's just... commercialized... like most holidays.

I like flag holidays. Flags are fun to make. I've made a few.

I made this U.S. Flag ... it took about three weeks.


I don't have a pattern, I just pulled out one of my old flags that had been retired from the flagpole and measured the stripes and the blue box, and crocheted to the measurements, then I made fifty stars and sewed them on one by one. The stars were really alot of fun, but the placement can be tricky. I have to admit, I gained a great deal of respect for the remarkable ladies that made all those flags generations ago by hand.


The most challenging of all the flags I've made so far, is the Confederate Flag. It was made for my oldest child, my son, who'd just recently gotten his first townhouse and I really wanted to make him something for his new place. He's always wanted one of those flags, so .... I looked at a thousand pictures, decided on my measurements based on some information I found on other flags, and *winged it* LOL. I seem to work best under pressure. The results were great tho, and he loves it. Which is really what mattered most.



The base part of the flag, (the red and blue&white X) is all done in one piece. I don't like to carry the yarns across the back, so I worked with 'bobbins'. At one point I had 9 bobbins working at once on there... 4 white, 2 blue and 3 red. I never have found a good way to keep the bobbins from tangling up on larger projects like this, so I just stopped and untwisted them every few rows. The stars, again, were made separately, and sewn on after the base of the flag was finished.

At the moment tho, I'm completely out of ideas. I know all craftsters go thru this, and I have gone thru it more than a few times, but it's always difficult. I'm one of those people that just can't stand to be without a project ongoing. I have to have something for me to do. I can't just 'watch tv' ... I have to have something to crochet while I sit there. Otherwise I have to find something else to do. Curse my 'just can't sit here doing nothing' personality.

Well I'm sure this 'slump' will end, as all the others have ... with something good to do. Maybe we have to go thru the 'down' times to really encourage the creative part of us to get a move on and make something happen.

I guess that's what 'starving artist' is all about. You have to be hungry once in a while to truly appreciate the bounty you will receive later. :)

I think I'll make a good ole 'Lone Star Flag' next time I decide to do a flag. I do live in Texas after all - and that would be three of the Six Flags under which the state has flown.

Something to think about .........

Monday, April 6, 2009

POKEBALL JEWELRY SET




I've made several of these for my daughters and their friends. They just love anything pokemon related. LOL

As usual, if anything is not right, let know so I can change it :)


POKEBALL JEWELRY SET

Materials:

Size 10 crochet thread Red, white and black
size 7 and 9 steel crochet hooks
small amount of fiberfill
Sewing thread in red, white and black
3 jump rings
2 earring findings (either hooks or clips)

NOTES:
I recommend using the invisible decrease to reduce the gaps that regular decrease stitches can leave. Simply work your decrease stitches in the Front Loops Only, instead of through both loops.

PENDANT:

Using red and size 7 steel hook:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (18)

Rnd 4 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (24)

Rnd 5-6: sc in each sc around (at end of rnd 6, join the black crochet thread) (24)

Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (join the white crochet at the end of round) (24)

Rnd 8-9: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 10: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Begin stuffing the ball firmly and continue as the rounds are finished.

Rnd 11: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 12: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving tail, finish out any stuffing needed (a yarn needle may be helpful getting the stuffing evened out on such a small piece) weave the tail thru the last round and pull tight to close.


Button base:

Using black and size 7 steel crochet hook:

Repeat first two rounds of pendant. (12)

F/O

Button top:

Using white and size 9 steel crochet hook:

Repeat first round of pendant.

Using sewing thread and needle, sew the white button top centered on the black button base. Then using black sewing thread and needle, sew the button to the pokeball centered over the black line around the middle of the pokeball (as shown)

Using red sewing thread and needle, sew one of the jump rings to the pokeball (on the red end), in the direction as show in picture so that when strung on a chain, the button will face to the front.



EARRINGS:

Using red crochet thread and size 7 steel hook:

Repeat rounds 1-3 of pendant. (18)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around. Change to black crochet thread at end of round. (18)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around. Change to white crochet thread at the end of round (18)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around. (18)

Begin stuffing firmly and continue as you go along.

Rnd 7: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 8: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O and finish same as pendant.


Button base:

Using black and size 7 hook:

Same as for pendant button base.

Button top:

Using size 9 crochet hook and two strands of white sewing thread held together:

6 sc in magic ring. F/O

Sew button top to base same as for pendant and sew to pokeballs same as for pendant.

Using red sewing thread, sew jump rings to the pokeballs on the red end making sure that when hooks or clips are connected to rings, that the button will face in the right direction. Use photo to help with placement.


Pokeball and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

POKEBALL



I made a bunch of these pokeballs for the kids starting way back in the mid 90's ... when they were little. They'd lose one (or the dogs would chew them up) so I'd make more. Even at their ages they still love to play with these things :)

As always, if something isn't right please let me know so that I can fix it as soon as possible.


POKEBALL

Materials:

WW yarn in red, white and black
F and G hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Sewing needle and thread in white and black

NOTES:

I recommend using the 'invisible decrease' when making 3D pieces like this, it's done by simply making the decrease in the Front Loops Only. While it's not completely invisible, it does help prevent the gaps that regular decrease stitches can leave.



Using red and G hook:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8-9: sc in each sc around. Change to black yarn in last stitch (or the join sl st if joining rounds) (42)

Rnd 10-11: sc in each sc around. Change to white yarn in last stitch (or the join sl st if joining rounds) (42)

Rnd 12-13: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 14: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Being stuffing firmly at this point, if you haven't already, and continue to stuff as you go along.

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 18: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 19: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving a tail. Add any more stuffing if needed to finish the shape out. Thread the tail through the last round and pull tightly to close.


BUTTON:

Base:

Using Black and G hook:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)

F/O

Top:

Using White and F hook:

7 sc in magic ring (7)

F/O

Using white sewing thread and sewing needle, sew the white top portion to the base piece centered evenly. Using black sewing thread and needle, sew the button centered over the black stripe of the pokeball.



Pokeball and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Star Earrings


This has to be one of my favorite of my earring designs. It's simple and clean, big enough to please my daughter, but delicate enough to please me LOL

You can make these in just any color, or combine two colors for a different effect. I've even made some in glow-in-the-dark thread (you can find that usually in the embroidery thread rack)

The pattern is relatively simple, but the thread and hook is small, so can be a little frustrating if you're not used to working with such small things.

As always, if you find anything wrong or confusing, please let me know and I'll fix it as soon as possible :)


STAR EARRINGS

Sewing thread (2 spools of any color or colors you like)
Size 10 steel crochet hook
Fabric Stiffener
(optional) can of non-yellowing clear spray varnish
Your choice of earring findings. (I used simple hooks for this pair)

Stitches:

DC beginning cluster (beg cl) : ch2, retaining last loop of each dc on hook, dc in each of next two dc, yo and draw through all loops on hook.

DC Cluster (dc cl) Retaining last loop of each dc on hook, dc in each of next 3 dc, yo and draw through all loops on hook

Using two strands of the sewing thread together:

Rnd 1: ch 4, join to make a ring Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, * ch1, 3 dc in ring. repeat from * 4 times around, join with sl st in third ch of beginning ch 3 (5 groups of 3 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, beg cl over the next two dc. *ch 10, sl st in 6th ch from hook, ch4, dc cl over next 3 dc. repeat from * around, joint with sl st to top of beginning cluster.

Rnd 3: Ch6, dc in same st as join ch3. * sk 4 ch, in ch6 loop work the following (dc, ch3, dc, ch5, dc ch3 dc) ch3. Dc, ch3, dc in next cluster. ch3 . repeat from * around sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch 6 to join.

F/O

Block piece with fabric stiffener and allow to dry thoroughly. (I recommend at least 24 hours). If desired, apply several light coats of a non-yellowing spray varnish on both sides, allowing to dry well in between coats. The varnish will help to prevent the earrings from losing shape in very humid or rainy weather.

Attach chosen earring findings to one of the points of the star as shown.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts. You may keep a copy for your personal use. Please do not reprint or sell this pattern. If you wish to share it, you may link to this pattern.

PACHIRISU with pattern



This guy has been hard to get good pictures of because of his colors, and this is the best I can do for right now. Pachirisu is my middle daughter's very favorite pokemon, so I made this for her.
I hope you can see the details well enough.

This third pic was just purely for fun. It seems that Pachirisu is something of a camera hound, and decided to ham it up just a little for us. :)




The pattern is below, as always, if you find anything missing or wrong in the pattern, please let me know and I will fix it promptly :)

PACHIRISU

MATERIALS:
WW yarn in white and a medium blue
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Scraps of felt in black, red and yellow (or orange)
sewing threads to match the colors

NOTES:

I tend to prefer to join my rounds, but if you prefer continuous rounds and using stitch markers, that's just as good. Whatever is most comfortable for you.

Gauge isn't an issue, just make sure that your hook, yarn and tensions result in a fairly tight stitch, to prevent the stuffing from showing through.

I also recommend using the 'invisible decrease' when making 3D pieces like this. It's done by making the decrease stitch in the Front Loops Only of the two sc. While the stitch isn't completely invisible, it does create a much neater looking piece with few to no 'gaps' where the decrease stitches are made.

Number in ( ) at the end of each round or row, are the total number of stitches in that round or row.


HEAD:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 9-13: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 14: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 15: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 16: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Begin stuffing about this point if you haven't done so already.

Rnd 17: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 20: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving tail, add any stuffing to finish filling out the head. Weave the tail through the last round worked and pull to close.


BODY:

Repeat rounds 1-7 of HEAD.

Rnd 8-11: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 13-14: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 16-17: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 19: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 21: sc in each sc around (18)

F/O and stuff moderately firm, leaving opening at next as is for now.


EARS:
(make 2)
(Ears have a small point at the base of the front of each, this is created in 8-11)

Using Blue:

Rnd 1: Sc 4 in magic ring. (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (12)

Row 8: sc in next 4 sc, turn (leave remaining stitches unworked) (4)

Row 9: dec in first two sc, sc in next 2 sc (3)

Row 10: dec in first sc, sc in next sc (2)

Row 11: dec over the 2 sc (1)

F/O

HEAD STRIPE:

(this stripe goes from the head all the way down the back)

Using Blue:

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in second ch from hook, turn (1)

Row 2: 2 sc in sc, turn (2)

Row 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in second sc, turn (3)

Row 4: sc in first two sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (4)

Row 5-42: sc in each sc across (4)

F/O

ARMS:

Using white, make 2:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (9)

F/O


FEET:

Using white, make 2:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 8: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O


TAIL:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc (22)

Rnd 5: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc (26)

Rnd 6: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc (30)

Rnd 7-11: sc in each sc around (30)

You may wish to begin stuffing at this point and continue as you progress. The tail is fairly long and can be very difficult to stuff after fully crocheted.

Rnd 12: sc in next 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc (28)

Rnd 13-35: sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 36: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc (26)

Rnd 37: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc (24)

(Rows 38-45 will create the cape of the tail. This part faces out, away from body piece and goes under the bottom of the body, allowing the tail to be sewn on at an upwards angle)

Row 38: sc in next 12 sc, turn (12)

Row 39: sc in each sc across, turn (12)

Row 40: dec in first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)

Row 41: sc in each sc across, turn (10)

Row 42: repeat row 40 (8)

Row 43: repeat row 39 (8)

Row 44: repeat row 40 (6)

Row 45: repeat row 39 (6)

F/O

TAIL STRIPE:

Using blue:

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in second ch from hook (1)

Row 2: 2 sc in sc (2)

Row 3: 2 sc in each sc (4)

Row 4: sc in each sc across (4)

Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Row 6-20: sc in each sc across (6)

Row 21: sc in first 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 2 sc (5)

Row 22-27: sc in each sc across (5)

Row 28: sc in first 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last sc (4)

Row 29-44: sc in each sc across (4)

F/O


TAIL SPIKES:

(make 2 of these)

Using blue:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (4)

Rnd 3: sc next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (8)

F/O

(make one)

Repeat rounds 1-4 of first spike

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (10)

F/O


ASSEMBLY:

I strongly recommend pinning all pieces together before you begin sewing them whenever possible. This allows you to make fine adjustments to the placement, and when you're happy with everything, then you can sew it together.

Sew Head to neck part of Body firmly. Sew ears on top of head as shown in pictures, with points facing forward. Lightly stuff and sew arms to front of body as shown, and sew feet to underside of body roughly even with the ears. Sew head stripe to head, begin point just below the ear points, and continue down the back.

Stuff tail moderately firm. Tail should be relatively flat, like a squirrel tail. Sew stripe to TOP of tail (the shorter side, without the cape) starting with point tip at the 1st round and sewing down the center of the top of tail. Match the stripes on tail and body back, and ensure cape is well under the bottom side, adjust the tail to angle you like. As you sew around the cape portion of the tail, add a bit more stuffing to fill it out and finalize the shape of the tail. Sew on the three points at the end of the tail (you probably will need to fuss around with the tail at this point and convince it to curl a bit on the very end) Sew the taller of the three points in between the other two.

Cut out face pieces from felt as shown (two eyes in black, two circles for 'electric pouches' on the cheeks, a mouth and small white piece for it's cute little buck teeth up front. Sew or glue pieces to face shown. Using small amount of black sewing thread, make several tiny whip stitches just above the mouth centered between the eyes. I used two tiny pearls and glued them to the eyes in the 10 o'clock position for 'catch lights' in the eyes.


Pachirisu and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
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