Litten _ Pokemon Crochet Plushie Pattern

Finally, right?  LOL.   Here's the third of the new starter pokemon for the game Sun/Moon.  It's a little tricky in spots,  so I'd recommend reading each section through completely before starting it just to give you an idea of what's going to happen and keep things in mind.

As always - if you find something you don't understand or run across a mistake  (it happens)....just either post here or you can email me directly at Linda@wolfdreameroth.com

MATERIALS:

WW yarn (I used Vanna's Choice in solid colors) Black and pumpkin (less than a skein of each)

G Crochet Hook (4.0mm)

Stuffing

tapestry needle

yellow color felt (small pieces for eyes)

Sewing needle and thread to match yarn and felt colors

Notes:

Litten has some unusual features that require a little fancy footwork insofar as the crochet parts go.

Litten's head is overly large for the body structure, you may have some issues with the head wanting to list, or nod and all I can recommend is very securely sewing the head to the body using a wider circle than usual and strong, tight stitches. Litten is supposed to be a kitten (somewhat like Meowth) and so the head is larger than the proportional average (creating a bit of a problem with the interpretation of cartoon physics into the world of real physics).

BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (18)

Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (24)

Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (30)

Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (36)

Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 13: * sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc* (repeat * to * around) (33)

Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (33)

Rnd 16: * sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc* (repeat * to * around) (30)

Rnd 17-20: sc in each sc around (30)

This is a fairly good place to begin stuffing and shaping if you haven't already. Stuff fairly firmly while also shaping the body. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress.

Rnd 21: * sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (33)

Rnd 22: * sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (36)

Rnd 23-25: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 26: * sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (30)

Rnd 27: * sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (24)

Rnd 28: * sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (18)

Rnd 29: * sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (12)

Rnd 30: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping and weave the tail thread through the final round, pull gently to close up the small opening. Secure and weave in the tail yarn.

FRONT LEGS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

Rnd 5: repeat Rnd 4 (change to pumpkin color in last stitch of the round) (8)

Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without over-stuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (change to black in the last stitch of round 7) (8)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 9: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (change to pumpkin in last stitch of round) (10)

Rnd 10 : sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 11: sc in each sc around (change to black in last stitch of round) (12)

Row 12: sc in each sc around (12)

Do not fasten off at this point, continue with shoulder and either right or left leg instructions:

Begin Shoulder:

Right leg:

Row 13: sc in next 6 sc, leave remaining sc unworked, ch 1 and turn (6)

Row 14: sc in each sc across, ch 1 and turn  (6)

Row 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch 1 and turn (5)

Row 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)

F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that the 'inside' of the leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Complete rows 13 through 16 as described for right leg.

F/O.

BACK LEGS:

Rnd 1-5: Same as for front leg (change to pumpkin in last stitch of round 5)

Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (change to black in last stitch of round 7) (8)

Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without over-stuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 8: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (change to pumpkin in last stitch of round) (12)

Rnd 10: Repeat rnd 8 (18)

Rnd 11: sc in each sc around (change to black in last stitch of round) (18)

Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (18)

Do not fast off, continue with 'cape/shoulder' for either right or left leg:

Right Leg:

Row 1: Sc 9, leave remaining sc unworked, ch1 and turn (9)

Row 2: sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc,  ch1 and turn (8)

Row 3: sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn  (7)

Row 4: sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc,  ch1 and turn(6)

Row 5: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn (5)

Row 6: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc, (4)

F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that inside of leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Continue with shoulder as described for Right Leg.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 3: * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat * to * around) (21)

Rnd 4: * sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (28)

Rnd 5: * sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (35)

Rnd 6: * sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (42)

Rnd 7: * sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (49)

Rnd 8-14: sc in each sc around (49)

Here's a good point to begin stuffing the head. Stuff firmly (but dont over-stuff ) continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 15: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (42)

Rnd 16: * sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (35)

Rnd 17: * sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (28)

Rnd 18: * sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (21)

Rnd 19: * sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (14)

Rnd 20: * Dec over next 2 sc * (repeat * to * around) (7)

Add stuffing if needed to finalize the shape and round it out evenly. F/O and weave in tail

EARS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (9)

Rnd 3: * sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (12)

Rnd 4: * sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (15)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 6: * sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (18)

Rnd 7: * sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (21)

Rnd 8: * sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (24)

Rnd 9: * sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * to * around) (27)

F/0 and tuck in tails. Ears are not stuffed, but flattened.

MUZZLE/WHISKERS:

Ok, here comes the really fun part. Read through all the directions first, then just take it one round/row at a time. I'm including a picture of a complete piece so that you can see a little better what it should like when done (and it helps you gauge if you're on the right track while working on it. Don't be upset if yours doesn't look EXACTLY like mine, as long as when it's fitted to the face it looks right, it's fine.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each of next 2 sc, in each of the next 2 sc work 3 sc, sc in each of the last 2 sc (10)

Rnd 3: sc in each of the next 4 sc, in each of the next 2 sc work 3 sc, sc in each of the last 4 sc (14)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (14)

do not F/O, begin working in rows

Row 1: chain 5, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain then across 6 sc of round 4 , turn work(total of 10 sc)

Row 2-4: sc in each sc across row (turn work at end) (10)

Row 5: dec over first 2 sc in row, sc across remaining sc (turn) (9)

Row 6: sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (turn) (8)

Row 7: repeat row 5 (7)

Row 8: repeat row 6 (6)

Row 9-12: sc in each sc across each row (6)

Begin working the 'whiskers'

Chain 6, slip stitch in 2^nd chain from hook, sc in each of the next 2 chains, hdc in each of the remaining 2 chains. Skip 1 sc in row 12 and sc in next sc.

Chain 8, slip stitch in 2^nd chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains, hdc each of next 2 chains, dc in last 2 chains, Skip 1 sc in row 12 and sc in next sc

Chain 6, slip stitch in 2^nd chain from hook, sc in each of the next 2 chains, hdc in each of the remaining 2 chains. Skip 1 sc in row 12 and slip stitch into last sc of row 12.

Picture of the mask/whiskers

The 'whiskers' on the ends WILL curl. If once you have it sewn in place, pin the whiskers back to the head (towards the back) cover with a towel or cloth and then carefully steam them. Do not allow an iron to touch the yarn! It will melt it. You can also do this before sewing it to the head, just pin it out on a surface like an ironing board, cover it with a towel and use a steam iron to straighten them. Remember – cover it with a towel or you can quickly melt the yarn.

F/O weave in ends. You will want a bit of stuffing behind the nose portion of the whisker-mask. You may wish to add the embroidery (satin stitch) for the nose in black and the mouth as well before sewing it onto the head.

TAIL:

6 sc in a magic ring,

sc in each sc around for about 16 rounds. Be sure you start stuffing early – it's nearly impossible to stuff a long thin tube once you're finished, so be certain you do while you're working it.

Next round, sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat that sequence once more for a total of 8 stitches.

Add any stuffing needed to complete the tail and then flatten the end and sc through both layers , for a total of 4 sc across.

*Chain 5, slip stitch in the 2^nd chain from the hook, sc in each of the remaining chains, slip stitch to the next sc in the row.* Repeat * to * three more times for a total of four 'tufts' on the end of the tail.

TUFTS BETWEEN THE EARS:

Chain 5, slip stitch in the 2^nd chain from the hook, sc in each of the remaining chains. F/O and make one more.

The pattern on the forehead is simply :

(make 2) Chain 8, sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain. F/O

(make 1) Chain 6, sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain. F/O

Sew to the forehead in the correct pattern (the shorter of the cross pieces goes on the top).

Assembly:

I highly recommend pinning the pieces together before sewing to give you a chance to make any adjustments or changes. When everything is to your liking, sew securely all pieces together. Take care to remember the stuffing bits behind the nose to fill it out. Add the eyes and pattern to the face. Sew the tail to the backside, and tufts between the ears.

*Litten and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 28, 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Rowlet Pokemon Crochet Plush Free Pattern

Ok,  finally got this one typed out.  Those of you on my Facebook page got a sneak peek at this little cutie over the weekend - and while I'd intended to have it up before now,  well,  life happens.  LOL   

This is the second in a row of the new starter pokemon for Sun/Moon  so you can very likely make a guess as to what's coming up next......  :)

Have fun with Rowlet!   As usual, if you find anything wrong  (as does happen)  just either post here in the comments,  or email me at linda@wolfdreameroth.com .  

ROWLET

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in beige, white, pumpkin (dark orange) and green

Crochet hook size US G (4.00 mm)

Stuffing

Felt pieces in white and black

Tapestry needle

Sewing needle and thread in white and green

A wee bit of patience (optional but highly recommended)

NOTES:

This pattern is likely better suited to at least an advanced beginner or intermediate crocheter. There are a few unusual maneuvers in this one so read each section through completely before you get started and keep in mind whats coming up as you work.

As most of you know I'm not very good at 'faces' you can likely come up with a better shape for the eye base than I did (I was also out nearly of white felt and that was the only piece I had left other than teeny bits for catch lights in the eyes *scribbles notes on shopping list* )

The wings are going to seem very 'heavy' and thick as you complete them....we want this so that they will 'stand up' instead of flop over when sewn to the body.

When changing colors:

At end of round: in the final stitch of the round, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop (2 loops of old color on hook), drop old color and draw new color through both loops on hook. If joining, then join round using new color and continue.

This will make even/jogless color changes in your work.

BODY

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 3: *sc in sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat * to * (21)

Rnd 4: * sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc * , repeat * to * (28)

Rnd 5: * sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc * , repeat * to * (35)

Rnd 6: * sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc * , repeat * to * (42)

Rnd 7-15: sc in each sc of the round , {change to white in last stitch of round 15} (42)

Rnd 16: *sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc * , repeat * to* (35)

Rnd 17: *sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc *, repeat * to * (28)

(begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, stuff firmly without over stuffing, and continue to stuff as you go on)

Rnd 18: *sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc *, repeat * to * (21)

Rnd 19: *sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc * , repeat * to* (14)

Rnd 20: dec over next 2 sc, repeat around (7)

F/O, add any stuffing needed to round out the shape and close up the hole with the tail

WINGS (make 4)

(wings are worked back and forth instead of in the round)

Row 1: ch 5, sc in 2^nd ch from the hook and each ch across, turn (4)

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc of row, sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)

Row 3-6: repeat row 2 (9 sc at end of row 6)

* chain 6, half double crochet (hdc) in 2^nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, double crochet (dc) in next 2 chs. Skip 2 sc of row 6, sc in next sc *

repeat * to * twice more for a total of 3 'feathers'.

Take 2 of the wing pieces and place them 'nicest' side out (whichever looks nicest to you) and sc around the entire thing through both pieces. You may need to do increases on the outside corners to keep it flat.

GREEN 'Leaf' ON WINGS:

(also worked flat)

Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and next chain, turn (2)

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc of row , turn (4)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc of row, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc, (6)

* chain 3, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and next chain, skip one sc of row 3 and slip stitch in next sc *

Repeat * to * twice more for a total of three 'feathers'. F/O Sew to base of one side of a wing (refer to images for placement help)

BEAK:

(with white)

Row 1: chain 2, sc in 2^nd chain from hook, turn (1)

Row 2: 2 sc in sc, turn (2)

Row 3: 2 sc in each sc of the row, change to pumpkin color in the last stitch of the row, turn (4)

Row 4: sc in each sc across, turn (4)

Row 5: draw up a loop though all four of the sc,. One at a time (dec 4) . You should have five loops on your hook. Draw a loop through all five loops at once (1)

F/O . Beak will likely need to be lightly stuffed and shaped as you sew it to the felt eye piece during assembly

FEET:

(using pumpkin)

Row1: chain 2, sc in last chain, turn (1)

Row 2: sc in sc, turn (1)

Row 3: 3 sc in sc (3)

* chain 3, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and next ch, slip stitch in next sc of row 3*

Repeat * to * twice more for a total of 3 'talons'. F/O

LEAF BOWTIE:

(using green, make 2)

These two piece are worked on both sides of the chain.

Chain 5 slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, 5 double crochet in last chain, turn work so that the original chain is now on top of the work and hook , working back across the chain, hdc in next loop of chain, sc, in next loop of chain, slip stitch in the last open loop of the chain. F/O and weave in the ends.

BACK FEATHER:

Chain 16, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across. turn (15)

*skip 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc * repeat * to * ending with a sc in the last sc.

F/O and weave in ends

TAIL: (green)

Chain 7, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (6)

next row: decrease over the first 2 sc, and then sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)

repeat that last row till 2 sc remain in row.

F/O weaving in ends.

ASSEMBLY: I highly recommend pinning all the pieces in place before sewing so that you can adjust and perfect placement.

Assemble the body parts as shown. When placing the wings, they should placed so that the 'back feather' piece fits exactly between them. The tail is centered underneath that piece.

The feet are sewn with the front talons and the back talon left free.

Cut out a piece of white felt in a 'fat 8' shape (it might help here to Google images of rowlet and get an idea for the shape. It can vary, so make the exact shape you like best. Cut two ovals to sew on for the black part of the eye, and two very tiny pieces of white for catch lights in the eye. Sew the catch lites onto the black first (after pinning to get placement) because its far easier than after it's on the doll.

The nose is placed as shown over the center area of the white felt 'fat 8' piece.

Wings can be adjusted to any position that you find pleasing. (again, Google images for ideas cause there are many).

*Rowlet and Pokemon are copyright of nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 8, 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Popplio Plushie Crochet Pattern

It's been a while since I've added a new pattern to the site here for various reasons of health, busy, and family. I've started work on some of the new pokemon from Sun and Moon (and have a waiting list to get to some of the older pokemon as well). The first of these is Popplio here.

Why start with Popplio? Easy - the yarn colors I needed for him happened to be sitting in front of me at the moment. I'll be posting other patterns in the near future, but I won't be able to keep up with my old rate of about one a week. There's just too much else going on to be able to have that much time to design the doll patterns at the moment.

With all that said, on to the pattern!

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in a dark blue, and small amounts of white, red and light blue (I used Vanna's Choice yarns from LionBrand for this pattern)

Size G (4.00 mm)  crochet hook
Stuffing

Tapestry or yarn needle

Tiny scraps of felt in white and black for the eyes

(As always, if you find a mistake please email me to let me know at linda@wolfdreameroth.com  ) 

HEAD/BODY

Beginning at the head:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc of the round (12)

Rnd 3: * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *) around (18)

Rnd 4: * sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *) around (24)

Rnd 5: * sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *) around (30)

Rnd 6: * sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *) around (36)

Rnd 7: * sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *) around (42)

Rnd 8 – 13: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 14: * sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc* (repeat from * to *) around (34)

Rnd 15: * sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc* (repeat from * to *) around (28)

Rnd 16: sc in each sc to last 2 in round, dec over last 2 sc (27)

Rnd 17: *sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat from * to *) around (21)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 19: * sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat from * to *) around (14)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around to last stitch, 2 sc in last sc (15)

Rnd 21: sc in each sc around (15)

Stuff the head firmly at this point, continue stuffing the body as you progress.

Rnd 22: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in each of next 5 sc, sc in last 5 sc (20)

Rnd 23-25: sc in each sc around (20)

Rnd 26: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc in last 7 sc ( 26)

Rnd 27: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc three times, sc in last 10 sc (23)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (23)

Rnd 29: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last 9 sc (21)

Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 31: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat from * to *) around (18)

Rnd 32: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 33 * sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc* (repeat from *to * ) around (15)

Rnd 34: *sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat from * to *) around (12)

Rnd 35-36: sc in each sc around (12)

Add any stuffing that's needed to shape the body rather firmly at this point. Flatten the end and sc across through both 'layers' to close leaving a flat end.

TAIL FLIPPERS (make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: * sc 2, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *) (16)

Rnd 4-5: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 6: sc 6, dec over next 2 sc, repeat once (14)

Rnd 7: sc 5, dec over next 2 sc, repeat once (12)

Rnd 8: sc 4, dec over next 2 sc, repeat once (10)

Rnd 9: sc 3, dec over next 2 sc, repeat once (8)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (8)

Fold flat, sc 3 across the end through both layers, turn (3)

Next row: dec over first 2 sc, sc 1, turn (2)

Last row: decrease over the 2 sc (1)

Flippers are not stuffed. F/O

HAND/FLIPPERS (make 2)

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 3: * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *) around (21)

Rnd 4: * sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *) around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 6: *sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat from * to *) around (21)

Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 8: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat from * to *) around (18)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 10: *sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat from * to *) around (15)

Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 13: *sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeast from * to*) around (12)

Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 16: * sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * (repeat from * to *) around (9)

Rnd 17: *sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc* (repeat from * to *) around (6)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (6)

Flatten end and sc 3 across through both layers, closing the arm/shoulder joint. F/O

COLLAR (using light blue)

Note: Collar is worked back and forth in rows, instead of rounds.

Row 1: Chain 17, turn

Row 2: sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each chain across (16)

Row 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * * across), turn (24)

Row 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc * (repeat * * across) turn (32)

Row 5: *skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc* , end row with skip 1, sc in last sc.

F/O (there should be 8 shells across the row)

NOSE (using white)

Note: the increases/decreases in these rounds are not all 'evenly' spaced. Pay close attention to each round for increase/decrease spacing.

Rnd 1: sc 5 in magic ring (5)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc 3, 2 sc in last sc (7)

Rnd 3: 2 sc in each of the first 2 sc, sc 3, 2sc in each of the last 2 sc (11)

Rnd 4: 2 sc in the first sc, sc 9, 2 sc in the last sc (13)

Rnd 5: 2 sc in each of the first 2 sc, sc 9, 2 sc in last sc (17)

Rnd 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc 15, 2 sc in last sc (19)

Rnd 7: 2 sc in each of the first 2 sc, sc 15, 2 sc in each of the last 2 sc (23)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (23)

Rnd 9: 2 sc in the first sc, sc in 21, 2 sc in last sc (23)

F/O Nose is lightly stuffed (you can add more stuffing while sewing the nose on if you need to.

Red Ball (using red)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of the sc around (12)

Rnd 3: dec over the next 2 sc (repeat around) 6)

F/O without closing the hole. Stuff fairly firmly

EARS:

Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 5: * sc in each of next 3 sc, decrease over next 2 sc* (repeat * * once) (8)

Rnd 6: *sc in each next 2 sc, decrease over next 2 sc * (repeat * * once) (6)

Flatten (do not stuff), sc across flattened end through both layers (3 sc)

F/O

ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend first pinning all parts in place with big headed pins (smaller straight pins easily

get 'lost' in the crochet work). Using the images, pin the parts together. The tail flippers are pinned across the flattened end of the body. Make sure that all parts are placed properly/to your liking. Securely sew the parts to their respective places on the head/body.

Place the collar around the neck (opening to the back) and sew the ends together

Cut out 2 large ovals for eyes, two smaller black ovals for pupils and two very tiny circles for the 'highlight' (you can also simply use some embroidery thread and a satin stitch to create the highlights but do this before you sew the eyes to the dolls.)

Using white yarn, create the 'markings' on the end of the arm flippers. Using black make the nostril markings on the upper side of the 'nose'. Sew the red ball to the end of the nose.

Popplio and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 29, 2016).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.