All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D

All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Showing posts with label penguin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label penguin. Show all posts

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Rico-POM


Well,  finally!  I got Rico done.  I know it took forever,  but I live in central Texas and with all the horrible heat we were having I found it very difficult to get motivated to pick up hook and yarn.   But that said,  here he is.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern or just have a question,  post it here or email me (or you can always find me on my FaceBook Page )



MATERIALS:
WW yarn black white and orange
G Hook
Fiberfill
15mm Google Eyes
Tapestry Needle
Sewing Thread and Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.


BODY/HEAD

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7-30:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 31:  Sc in next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (44)
Rnd 32-33:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 34:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 35-36:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing at this point,  stuff firmly and shape while stuffing.  Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 37:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 38-39:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 40:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 41:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 42:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 43: sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 44:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 45:  dec in next 2 sc around  (8)
F/O.   Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the head.  Weave the tail through the last round of sc and tug to close up hole.   Secure and weave in ends


WHITE BELLY SECTION

Rnd 1-6:  same as for BODY/HEAD above  (48 sc at end of rnd 6)
Rnd 7-8:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Row 9:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Do not join, turn  (46)
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (44)

Repeat row 10 until 18 sc remain,  turn  (do not fasten off)

Begin shaping upper portion:

Row 1-2:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (16)
Row 4-5:  sc in each sc across  (16)
Row 6:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn   (14)
Row 7-8:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 9:  sc in first sc,  hdc in next sc,   dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O  and weave in ends.

BEAK:
(using orange)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 4 sc,  in last sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 8 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last 2 sc
Rnd 7:  sc in next 7 sc,  in next sc work  [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains]  sc in next 10 sc,  in next sc work [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains],  sc in last 3 sc.
F/O and weave in end.

WINGS:

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain across,  turn (4)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across , turn  (4)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 5-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 18:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 17 and 18 until 2 sc remain.  Dec over those 2 sc  (1)
F/O  weave in ends.  (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)


FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end  

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):
(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')  

FINAL ASSEMBLY:  

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretch up to the 'top' of the head as shown in the photo.  

Beak is lightly stuffed and shaped - and is placed on the face area as shown.  Rico has a deep 'smile' usually,  and his beak is somewhat 'fatter' and appears slightly larger than the other penguins.  

Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown.

The 'hair' is simply several pieces of black yarn cut to approx 5 inches long.  Use your crochet hook to 'latch-hook' the hair pieces in a line along the top of the head as shown.  After placing them,  trim them down to length desired.

To make the 'scar'.  Simply use some sewing thread and a needle and add the scar as desired on the left side of his face across the beak.   His scar isn't a heavy one-it's almost not noticeable in most of the shows unless his face is shown just right,  so go easy on it.  :D

Rico and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.


This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 








Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Kowalski-POM


Ok,  here's the Kowalski doll...  I'm sorry that I only have this one photo,  but for some reason,  all the others came out terribly blurred - and the winds were giving us fits and he wouldn't stay upright LOL.  I'll try and get some more (and better) pics soon.  His feet are oddly positioned in this one,  but it's the only way we could get him to stand up in the winds  :D

For the most part,  he's very similar to the other two,  with a few differences such as height and he's a little skinnier and the wings are of course a bit longer.   I'm going to take a bit of a break before attempting to work on Rico,  my wrists are giving me a bit of trouble after working on these three so closely together,  but I won't take *too* long to get Rico up here as well.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern,  or just get confused,  let me know here and I'll get back to you ASAP.


MATERIALS:
WW yarn in black and white,  with a small amount of orange/yellow for beak and feet
G hook
15mm google eyes
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Sewing thread in suitable colors to match yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.

HEAD/BODY:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in the next 19 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 19 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (42)
Rnd 7-40:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly but don't overstuff.  Shape body while stuffing,  continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 41:  sc in next 19 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 19 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (40)
Rnd 42:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 43:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 44:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 45:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 46:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 47:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 48:  sc in each sc around  (28)
Rnd 49:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 50:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 51:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 52:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 53:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O  Add any stuffing needed to finish out shaping.   Weave tail through final round of stitches,  tug gently to close opening.  Secure end and weave in.

WHITE BELLY PIECE:

Using white yarn:

Rnd 1-6:  same as for body
Rnd 7-9:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Beginning with row 10,  you will no longer be working in rounds, but in rows.  At the end of each row turn your work so that you'll be working back across the stitches you just made.  I personally do not use a turning chain,  but make my first sc in the very last sc of the previous row.  This creates and stronger and cleaner edge for the stitches later.
Row 10:   dec over first 2 sc,  sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn your work   (40)
Row 11:  sc in each sc across,  turn  (40)
Row 12-30:  repeat rows 10 and 11.  (until you have 20 sc across)
Row 31-32:  repeat row 10  (16)
Row 33-36:  sc in each sc across (16)
Row 37 and 38:  2 sc in the first sc of the row,  sc across remaining scs (18 at end of row 38)
Row 39-40:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 41:  slip stitch in first 4 sc,  sc across 10 sc,  turn  (leave remaining sc unworked)  (10)
Row 42-44:  sc in each sc across  (10)
Row 45:  sc in next 5 sc,  turn,  sc back across the 5 sc,  turn,  dec over first 2 sc,  sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Slip stitch down the sides of the rows just worked back to the row with 10 sc.  Sc in next five sc,  turn, sc back across the 5 sc,  turn,  dec over the first 2 sc,  sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Slip stitch back down to the row of 10 sc,  Slip stitch to secure and F/O.  Weave in your end.

EDGING:

Attach yarn to center back of piece.  Sc in same stitch as joining,  and sc evenly around the sides.  Work 3 sc in each of the  outside 'corners'  at the top of the piece.  Following the shaping around,  sc evenly back down the other side to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
F/O and weave in end.


FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):

(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

BEAK:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in last sc  (14)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sc,  (hcd, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 6 sc,  (hcd, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  (hdc, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last 2 sc.
F/O.  Flatten and shape beak as desired.  I did find that for Kowalski,  a tiny bit of stuffing (mostly in the center portion to fill it out better)  worked well for the overall design of this doll.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across , turn  (4)
Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn (4)
Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc , turn (6)
Row 6-24:  sc in each sc across (6)
Row 25:  sc in first 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 26:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 25 and 26 until 1 sc remains.
F/O.  Weave in end.   (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretched up towards  the top of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is placed on the face area as shown. I found with Kowalski that a tiny bit of stuffing in the beak gave it a shape more consistent with the character.    Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown and positioned as you like.   I used a little sewing thread to tack the wings in the positions you see in the pics here.


Kowalski and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.


This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Skipper


Cute and Cuddly Boys!

Ok.  I am a HUGE Penguins of Madagascar fan.  These guys I'm doing for me mostly...  I actually purchased the yarn to make all four of them.  This is of course only Skipper,  but the other three will be following in the next couple of weeks.   (Give me at least a week between, maybe more ...  I can't work too much or I'll blow out my wrists again and I don't want to do that)

The pattern might seem a little strange when you first read it through,  but just take it one part at a time.   The beak particularly might give you fits,  but just keep at it... it took me a while to get it too,  but the work is worth it  :D

If you find any problems in the pattern,  or if you just get totally confuzzled,  let me know and I'll do my best to help you out!  

MATERIALS: 

 WW yarn in black and white,  with smaller amount in a medium orange
G Hook
Fiberfill
Sewing thread and needle
15 mm Googly Eyes  (or similar eyes of your choice)

NOTES:

Gauge is not important for this item

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

This pattern has some 'different' shaping.  It's helpful if you read through each section before you begin,  to try and get a feel for how the shaping is going to progress.   Remember that most often,  the final shape of the piece won't be noticeable until the stuffing process is done.

HEAD/BODY:

With black:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of next 4 sc,  sc in last 6 sc  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 7: Working in Back loops only for this round, sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 9:  Sc in each of next 9 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each last 9 sc  (44)
Rnd 10-12:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 13:  sc in each of the next 10 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the next 20 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the last 10 sc  (48)
Rnd 14-18:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 19:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc (repeat decrease one more time),  sc in each of next 20 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  (repeat decrease once more),  sc in each of last 10 sc  (44)
Rnd 20-21:  sc in each sc around  (44)
If you haven't already begun stuffing ,  this is a good place to start.  Stuff fairly firmly,  but don't overstuff.   Continue to stuff and shape the body as you progress.
Rnd 22:  sc in each of next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease one more time),  sc in each of next 18 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (decrease one more time),  sc in each of last 9 sc  (40)
Rnd 23-32:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 33:  sc in each of next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 18 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, sc in each of last 9 sc  (38)
Rnd 34-39:  sc in each sc around  (38)
Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (19)
Rnd 41:  dec over next 2 sc around,  sc in last sc  (10)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finalize shaping.  (Top of Skipper's head should be 'flat',  resembling a military style haircut)  Weave tail through last round of crochet,  pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in end.

WHITE FRONT SECTION:

Using white:

Rnd 1-8:  Same as for body 
Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 10: Slip stitch across first 4 sc. Ch 1,  sc in next sc.  Sc in each sc across to last 4 sc.  Turn work (leaving last 4 sc unworked)   (32)
Row 11-13:  sc in each sc across,  turn work at end of each row.  (32)
Row 14:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (30)
Row 15:  sc in each sc across  (30)
Row 16:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (28)
Row 17:  sc in each sc across  (28)
Row 18:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (26)
Row 19:  sc in each sc across  (26)
Row 20:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (24)
Row 21:  sc in each sc across  (24)
Row 22:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (22)
Row 23:  sc in each sc across  (22)
Row 24:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (20)
Row 25:  sc in each sc across  (20)
Row 26:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (18)
Row 27:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 28:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)
Row 29:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)
Row 30:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 31:  2 sc in the first sc,  sc in each sc across to the last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Row 32:  sc in each sc across (16)
Row 33: 2 sc in the first sc,  sc in each sc across to the last sc,  2 sc in last sc   (18)
Row 34:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 35: Chain 2, 2 dc in same stitch as turning.  hdc in next sc,  sc across to last 2 sc.  Hdc in next to last sc,  3 dc in last sc.
F/O.  Weave in end.


Attach yarn to center of back of the piece  (the last 'round' before beginning working in rows).   Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining.  Sc evenly around piece to 'top' corner.  3 sc in corner,  sc in next 2 sc.  Chain 2,  2 dc in same sc,   hdc in next sc,  sc in each sc across to last 5 sc.  Hdc in next sc,  2 dc in next sc, chain 2,  sc in each sc to corner,  3 sc in corner stitch.  Continue to sc around the edge evenly.  Slip stitch to first sc.
F/O. Weave in end.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  Chain 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn  (5)
Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn  (5)
Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc, turn  (7)
Row 6-20:  sc in each sc across, turn  (7)
Row 21:  sc in first 5 sc of row,  dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)
Row 22:  sc in each sc across, turn  (6)
Repeat rows 21 and 22 until 3 sc remain in row
Dec over the 3 sc (1 sc left)
F/O.  Weave in ends.

FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end   

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.  
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')   

BEAK:

The instructions for the beak may seem confusing at first,  the increases are different than the 'standards'  because you're expanding the sides drastically, while keeping the top/bottom portions relatively even.  This will create a 'curve' shape and then on the last round,  you have to add the 'smile'  (or side portions of the beak).   If you get confused,  just take it one round at a time...  it may take you a few tries to get it right  (it did me too).  It does work,  it just might take a little practice to get it right.  I recommend working a little tight on the beak  if you normally crochet loosely.

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 DC in the next sc,   sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 DC in the last sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in each of the next 3 sc,  2 DC in the next sc,  sc in each of the next 3 sc,  2 DC in the last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in each of the next 4 sc,  in the next sc work the following [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in each of the next 4 sc,  in the next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]  (14)
Rnd 6:  sc in each of the next 5 sc,  in the next sc,  work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in each of the next 6 sc,  in the next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7: sc in each of next 7 sc,  chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, skip one stitch, slip stitch in next stitch,  sc in each of next 7 stitches,   chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, skip one stitch, slip stitch in last stitch,  slip stitch to join to first stitch of round.
F/O,  weave in end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend that you pin the pieces together before sewing anything,  to ensure that you're happy with the placement before making anything permanent.  The beak will need to be 'shaped'  as you pin...  by creating the 'scoops'  along the top of the beak,  and a slight 'smile' to the side portions as you pin.  Fiddle around with it till you're pleased with the overall look.

The white portion of the body fits over the bottom end of the black portion (the 'bowl' end of the white section should fit snugly over the bottom of the body portion).     The 'front' is stretched upwards towards the top of the head  (as shown).

The wings are placed on either side,   the sloped side of the wing faces to the back of the penguin,  with the flat end  attached to the body.  You can position the 'wings' in whatever position you prefer once they're attached to the body.

The feet/legs are sewn to the bottom,  with the feet pointing slightly outwards.  the legs should be fairly firmly stuffed ...  and if the stuffing seems to want to 'ooze' out while you're sewing the legs on,  just tuck it in as you go around.

For the Tail,  I just added a few satin stitches to the back side to give the illusion of a slightly pointed tail.  I used the same black yarn as for the body,  with a yarn needle.  

The beak is positioned as shown,  and sewn carefully to the white portion of the 'face'.  You'll need to 'create'  the scooped nose as you sew  (as you had pinned it on earlier).   I didn't find a need for any stuffing in the beak,  but if it helps you create the bridge of the 'nose' portion between the eyes,  then that's ok too.

The eyes are glued on fairly close to the point of the bridge of the 'beak'.   I used a simple glue stick at first,  just to temporarily place them until I was happy with them... then I used a permanent glue to adhere them after I had sewn all the other parts in place.

The 'brow' portion of the face is made by chaining 10 or 12  (depending on your tension),  and then slip stitch back across the chain.   Sew the brow into place as shown  (or to create the expression you like best)

Skipper and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

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