Badtz Maru Plushie

Well I kinda did this guy on a lark.  I've been sort of feeling under the weather and resting alot this week, and decided to work on a smaller project that was just 'fun'.   So on the suggestion of a friend of mine, I made Badtz Maru.   

I didn't want to make him just 'sitting there'  and seeing that he's got such a cute and playful attitude - and he's well known for making faces,  I decided to make him sticking out his tongue  (cause it seemed to be a common pose for him and it made me laugh )

Hope you enjoy him,  it was just a little side project to keep me from being too bored :D

Materials:

WW yarn black, white and yellow

Fiberfill

G Hook

Yarn needle

Sewing thread to match yarn and sewing needle

small bits of felt in white, black and red

Notes:

Gauge isn't terribly important on this project, as long as your choice of yarn and hook and your individual tension result in an even, firm stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

Head/Body:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (24)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)

Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)

Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)

Rnd 7- 17:  sc in each sc around  (48)

Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)

Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)

Rnd 20:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)

Rnd 21:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)

Rnd 22:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)

Rnd 23-28:  sc in each sc around  (42)

Rnd 29:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)

Rnd 30-32:  sc in each sc around  (48)

Rnd 33:  sc in  next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)

Rnd 34:  sc in each sc around  (36)

F/O.  Do not close opening.  Make sure head/body is stuffed and shaped well.

BOTTOM:

Row 1:  ch 15 ,   sc in second ch from hook and each chain across  (14)

Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across  (14)

EDGING:P  sc even around entire piece,  slip stitch to beginning sc to end.

F/O.  Weave in ends.

Place body bottom piece at opening of body.   Using black sewing thread and needle,  bring the body opening edges in to meet up with the 'bottom' piece.  Sewing together securely.  The stitches won't match up 'exactly'  that's ok,  just ease in the body edges to the bottom piece.  This should create a slightly narrow and flat bottom.  

WHITE BELLY DECORATION:

Row 1:  ch 2.  4 sc in second chain from hook  (do not join, turn) (4)

Row 2:  2 sc in each sc across  (turn)  (8)

Row 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  across (turn)   (12)

Row 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc across (turn)  (16)

Row 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc across  (turn)  (20)

Row 6.  Sc in each sc across,  do not turn,  ch 1 and begin sc evenly across 'bottom',  place last sc in side of first sc of row 6.  Ch1 turn

Row 7:  sc in each sc across,  

F/O weave in end.  Pin  and then sew to front of body as shown.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)

Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)

Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)

Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (10)

Rnd 9:  5 sc ,  turn

Rnd 10:  4 sc turn

Rnd 11:  3 sc.

F/O.  Stuff and weave in ends.

BEAK:

Rnd 1:  Ch 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain to end,  turn work around and now working down other side of starting chain,  sc in each free loop to end.  Slip stitch to first sc  (10)

Rnd 2:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)

Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (16)

Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (16)

F/O,  weave in end.    Cut piece of red felt in the tongue shape desired,  place in between the two 'open' ends of the beak.  Flatten and match edges.  Sew through all layers.  Secure thread and weave loose ends.   (add a touch of detail with some black thread on the tongue as shown)

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic circle  (8)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)

Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (16)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)

Rnd 5:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)

F/O.  Weave in ends.  Foot isn't stuffed just flattened.

'HAIR'  SPIKES (make 4):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)

Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc  (6)

Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)

Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (10)

F/O.  Stuff 'tails' into spike  (add a tiny bit of fiberfill if you like to help shape the spikes)

TAIL:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)

Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)

Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)

F/O and weave ends.  Don't stuff.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all parts to the doll as shown (or as desired).   Once you're satisfied with the look,  sew all your parts to the dolls securely.    I put the arms on either side of the body,  where the head/body meet and positioned them to where they are 'pulling' on the beak from either side.  

Tail is added just under the backside of the body  (I don't know if Badtz actually *has* a tail,  but the way I ended up  doing the bottom part of the body to get the shape I wanted,  it was off balance with only the feet,  so the 'tail'  is the third point of support and makes it to where he'll sit up on his own)

Eyes are made from scraps of felt with tiny dots  of black felt (a sequin will work here too) .

Have fun with this one,  the best part of Badtz Maru,  is his irreverent attitude and wild child personality.  :D

Badtz Maru is a SANRIO character and is © of its creators.   This crochet pattern is © of Linda Potts (September 2010) and may not be copied, reprinted or added to any website or collection.  You may link to this pattern if you like,  or print a copy of it for your personal use ONLY.  No items made from this pattern may be sold for profit.  

Lugia Plushie

Ok y'all.  Here he is.  Lugia.

I'm sorry that my pics are always crummy,  but hey,  I'm not a photographer  LOL and I'm stuck with really old cameras that don't work unless they feel like it.

This doll ain't for the faint of heart.   It's better suited to experienced crocheters with a few serious dolls under their belts!   

He's larger than all the other pokemon I've made in the past and a little more difficult as well.   

I try to explain everything as well as I can in the pattern instructions,  just take it one step at a time and I'll try to help you as much as I can...  just post if you have any questions!   I've been sick all week,  and typing this wasn't easy while feeling so badly,  so if you find anything that's wrong, out of place or just plain confusing - that's probably why - and let me know I'll fix it!

Ok guys,  here goes.... and good luck! :D

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in white (at least a full skein) medium blue and dark blue

G hook

Fiberfill

Embroidery thread

Small pieces of felt in white and black

Sewing thread to match colors

Yarn Needle

Heavy Gauge wire for wings (optional)

NOTES:

Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual tension result in a firm consistent stitch that won't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

Lugia is one of the pokemon whose original 2-D design is not particularly well suited to 'plushie' form. He will be unbalanced. This doll is probably best designed to be suspended with fishing line or other 'invisible' material from a shelf or ceiling as opposed to 'sitting'. You can try weighing down his backside, but the wing structure will still be a nightmare. Some may be able to construct a wire frame for the inside of the wings that will help hold them out, but the sheer weight of the wings is still going to pull heavily on the sides of the body causing it to deform over time.

Typically, I join my rounds when making dolls. If you're more comfortable with using continuous rounds, by all means go ahead, however, in this particular doll you may have some issues with the continuous rounds when working the 'wings'. If at all possible, you should probably join your rounds at least when crocheting the wings in this pattern.

Be prepared to fiddle and fuss a bit with constructing this doll. As I said, it's not an easy one to make, but it DOES work. This pattern isn't well suited for a toy that will be 'played with'... it's best used for display purposes only.

Lugia's HEAD/BODY and TAIL are all crocheted as a single unit.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc (12)

Rnd 4: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 3 sc in last sc (18)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 6: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16 sc, 3 sc in last sc (22)

Rnd 7: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 10 sc (24)

Rnd 8-12: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Stuff head at this point. Stuff firmly and shape while stuffing (this is your only chance to shape the head, so make sure you're happy with it before going on). Continue stuffing neck, body and tail as you progress through the pattern, just make sure that you have the shape you want as you stuff. The neck needs careful attention, as it needs to be stuffed quite firmly (particularly where it joins the head and the body) in order to keep it from 'lolling' later on.

Rnd 14-16: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15)

Rnd 18-26: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 27: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 29: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 31: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 32: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 33: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 35: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 36: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 37: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 38: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 39: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 40-50: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 51: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 52: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 53: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 54: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 55: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 56: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 57: sc in next 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, dec over last 2 sc (28)

Rnd 58: sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 59: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, dec over last 2 sc (26)

Rnd 60: sc in each sc around (26)

Rnd 61: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc, dec over last 2 sc (24)

Rnd 62: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 63: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (22)

Rnd 64: sc in each sc around (22)

Rnd 65: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc, dec over last 2 sc (20)

Rnd 66: sc in each sc around (20)

Rnd 67: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc, dec over last 2 sc (18)

Rnd 68: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 69: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc (16)

Rnd 70: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 71: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14)

Rnd 72: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 73: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)

Rnd 74: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 75: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)

Rnd 76: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 77: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

Rnd 78: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 79: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)

Rnd 80: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 81: dec over next 2 sc around (3)

HEAD CREST:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)

Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18)

F/O and weave in ends.

You can add a tiny bit of stuffing here if you wish to create more of a rounded crest for the head,

Or you can flatten the crest and pin in place to back of head in position desired (use photos for help with placement)

WINGS (make2):

(If you wish to add a wire frame to the wings, you will need to plan that frame to be introduced before crocheting the fingers. I recommend a wire frame that will go from wing tip to wing tip, through the 'body' of the doll. Otherwise, you won't have the needed strength to hold up these heavier wings. If you're going to be suspending the doll in the air, then the wire frame can be omitted, because you can use the strings as a way to 'position' your wings as if in flight)

Rnd 1: Chain 7. Sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn work and working down the 'unused' side of the foundation chain, sc in the same chain as the last sc of other side, and each remaining chain across. Join to first sc with slip stitch. (12 sc)

Rnd 2-6: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 9: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 11: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 15: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 19: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (32)

Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 23: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 24-26: sc in each sc around (40)

Do not fasten off.

Begin first 'finger':

Flatten wing 'end' – matching up your sc stitches. You will be working through only one 'side' at a time, but using both sides for each finger.

Rnd 1: sc in next 5 sc. Turn work so that other side is now facing you, sc in next 5 sc of the other side of the wing (what was the last 5 sc of the previous round) and join with slip stitch to first sc of 'finger'

(10 sc)

Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around, joining each round with slip stitch in first sc around (10)

Flatten end of 'finger'. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.

F/O. Weave in ends.

Remaining Fingers:

Attach yarn to first stitch immediately to 'left' of finger just completed. Sc in same stitch as joining and complete same as rounds 1-8 of first finger.

For 'thumb'.

Rnd 1: Chain 6. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn and working down other side of foundation, sc in each chain across. Sl St to first sc of round (10)

Rnd 2-10: sc in each sc around (10)

Flatten end of thumb. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.

F/O. Weave in ends.

Pin and sew thumb to wing on underside, just below and between first and second finger.

Wings were not stuffed.

Wings are attached to side of body near base of neck as shown. Just pin for now.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 6: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (27)

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (27)

Rnd 10: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 11: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)

Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (12)

Stuff leg moderately. Leave opening. F/O weave in ends.

FOOT (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Stuff foot moderately, but not too much. Just enough to allow it to hold the shape you desire. Using white thread, create the 'toes' by taking three large whipstitches over the 'ends' of the feet. Go back and do the same with black thread to create the 'toes'.

Sew the foot to end of leg as shown.

BELLY DECORATION:

Using medium blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Begin points:

Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, turn (8)

Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)

Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (4)

Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc, turn (2)

Row 5: dec over 2 sc (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to first stitch to immediate left of point just made, sc in same stitch as joining and complete second point same as for first:

Attach yarn to any stitch along side of plate. Sc in same stitch as joining, and evenly around outside – using three sc in the tip of each 'point'. Join with sl st to top of first sc made.

F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to body over chest/stomach area.

PLATES ALONG BACK (make 10):

Using darker blue:

Chain 7. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (6)

Rows 2&3: sc in each sc across (6)

F/O and weave in ends.

SPIKES ON TAIL:

Using darker blue:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (5)

Rnd 4: sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 5: sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (7)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (7)

F/O and stuff very lightly. Pin to tail as shown.

EYE FEATHER (make 2):

Chain 11. Slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip stitch in last chain. Turn work and working back up the other side of the foundation chain: slip stitch in same ch as last slip stitch, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in next 2, slip stitch in last.

F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to head as shown in photos.

ASSEMBLY:

All parts need to be pinned to the doll's body before sewing any on. With a doll this large, it's really important you get everything just the way you want it :D

Figuring out the part placement isn't very hard (especially after what you've been through already LOL), just refer to the photos and get everything the way you want ! Then you can sew it all down.

Eyes are cut from pieces of felt in the shapes shown. Mouth is embroidered on last.

Lugia and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Snorlax Plushie

Well,  after many requests,  I finally made Snorlax.  (I know he's not blue,  but in my fire-red game he's a deep olive green, and I didn't have the right blue for him  LOL).  You of course,  can make him any color you like  :D

I posted only this one picture of him,  because frankly,  that's pretty much everything there is.  The pattern is pretty straightforward,  with maybe a little fancy footwork on the face part,  but it's very easy really.

I made mine in the sitting position because he fits on the shelf better that way (and I couldn't see his little face if he was laying down up there).   But of course,  you can make him in any position that pleases you.  As usual I'm not really happy with his face,  but faces have always been the bane of existence.  I know y'all will do better on the face than I did  :D

As always,  if you have any trouble, have a question or find a problem in the pattern,  let me know and I'll get back to you ASAP.

Snorlax

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in your main color (green in example) and lighter color (tan in example) and a few yards of white for claws and 'toenails'

G hook

Fiberfill

Needle and thread to match yarn colors

Small bits of med brown felt (or yarn of similar color)

small amount of black embroidery thread

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important as long as your choice of yarn, hook and your individual tension result in a consistently firm stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

I join my rounds, but if you're most comfortable working in continuous rounds, then that's fine too.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

BODY:

Begin with lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around, change to main color in last sc of round (64)

Rnd 9-17: sc in each sc around (64)

Rnd 18: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56)

Rnd 19: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 20: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 21: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)

Rnd 24: dec over next 2 sc around (8)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping. Weave tail through final round and tug gently to close. Secure and weave in end.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7-14: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (24)

F/O. Do not close neck opening. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping.

EARS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

FACE INSET:

Using lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 8 sc,   2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 6 sc (40)

First point:

Sc in next 6 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)

Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)

Decrease over all three sc in row (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Second point:

Attach yarn to next sc next to first point. Ch 1. sc in same stitch as joining, sc in next 5 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)

Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)

Decrease over all three sc in row (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to any sc (except either of the 'points). Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. Sc evenly around, putting 3 sc in each of the 'points'. Join to first sc with slip stitch. F/O.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 11-13: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 15-16: sc in each sc around. (12)

Stuff moderately firmly while shaping.

Rnd 17: Flatten end. Working through all layers, sc across end. (6)

F/O and weave in end.

CLAWS:

(using white)

Attach yarn between rows 2 and 3 of arm. Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch between rows 1 and 2.

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in nearest side of center of beginning rnd (this may require a little manipulation).

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch on other side of center of beginning rnd. (again, may require some manipulation.)

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 1 and 2.

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 2 and 3.

F/O and weave in ends.

(Alternately, you can cut a piece of white felt in a strip with five small points and sew to end of arm)

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, sc in last 12 sc (40)

Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 10: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 7 more times, for a total of 8 decreases) sc in last 12 sc (32)

Rnd 11: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around, change to main color in last sc of round. (16)

Rnd 13: working in front loops only for this round, sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (16)

F/O and weave in end. Stuff foot moderately firm while shaping. Stuff leg moderately.

TOENAILS (make 6):

Using white:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

F/O. Trim ends to about 2 inches or so and stuff them inside the 'nail'. This is probably all the stuffing you'll need for these.

Sew three toenails on the top side of each foot (as shown). Cut a circle of the medium brown felt and sew to the center of the foot (as shown).

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before you sew them on. This gives you the opportunity to 'play' with positioning, and make small adjustments.

Face inset is sewn to head as shown. Ears are sewn to top of head placed as shown. Head is sewn to body (if making him in a sitting position, you may wish to consider having his head tilt down and to the side as if he'd just dozed off).

Arms are sewn to the sides of the body near where the head is sewn on.

Legs are sewn to body either in sitting position or in sleeping position.

Facial features are simply embroidered with black thread. Two tiny triangles are the 'fangs'.

Snorlax and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Charmander Plushie

Ok,  well.  After many requests I finally managed to get around to making a Charmander.  I know the pictures are terrible,  but hey  I'm not a photographer and neither my camera OR the weather are cooperating at the moment.    So it's inside photos for now y'all...  I'll try to get some other pics soon.

This pattern has two different 'versions'.   The one you see in the pictures,  with the open mouth,  and also instructions for the closed mouth  (which is a bit easier).   Read all the way through the pattern before starting,  so that you'll know which one you're going to do  :D

Should you find any problems or typos,  please let me know and I'll fix it as quickly as possible :D   As always,  if you have any questions,  feel free to ask I'll get back with ya as soon as I can!

Charmander

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in pumpkin (or similar color) and tan/natural
G hook
Fiberfill
Felt scraps in black, blue, white, yellow, red and orange
Sewing needle and thread in colors close to the felt colors
Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important on this project, as long as your choice of yarn and hook and your individual tension result in an even, firm stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

There are two ways to make this doll,  either with the open mouth (as shown)  or with a 'closed' mouth where you would add embroidered mouth features.  I'll include instructions for both types so that you can do the style you prefer.

HEAD/BODY:
(this is for the open mouth version of the head and body,  if you would prefer to make the 'closed mouth' version  (not shown in pictures)  begin with the alternate head and body below)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 11 sc,  Working in Front Loops only - 2 sc in each of next 10 sc,  Working now through both loops again -  sc in last 11 sc  (42)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 14:  sc in each of next 17 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat dec 3 more times,  for a total of 4 decreases) sc in each of last 17 sc of the round  (38)
Rnd 15:  sc in each of next 13 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (repeat dec 5 more times,  for a total of 6 decreases)  sc in each of last 13 sc of the round  (32)
Rnd 16:  sc in each next 10 sc,   chain 10,  skip next 12 sc,  sc in each of last 10 sc of the round  (20 sc, 10 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (when you reach the chains,  treat them exactly as you would sc stitches and continue the sc 3, dec) to end of round  (24)
Begin stuffing head at this point.  Stuff to 'nose' and mouth opening,  then continue stuffing as you progress.  Stuff firmly,  shaping nose and head/neck/body as you go.
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 22-24:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 25:  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (39)
Rnd 26-34:  sc in each sc around  (39)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 36:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 37:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 38:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 39:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the body shape.  Weave tail through final round and tug to close the hole. 

LOWER JAW:

Row 1:  Ch 9,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (8)
Row 2:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Row 4:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
Row 5:  dec over next 2 sc,  repeat decrease  (2)
F/O.

Attach yarn to a corner of Row 1.  Sc evenly around the sides and around the front to the opposite corner of Row1. 

F/O.   Weave in loose ends.  Cut a piece of red felt to fit just inside the lower jaw area,  and one to fit the 'upper' part of the mouth.   Using sewing thread and needle,  sew the felt to both parts.   If desired,  cut a small semi-oval of pink felt for the tongue and sew to the middle of the lower jaw.  Pin the lower jaw to the opening of the 'mouth' on the head/body piece.  Adjust to desired position.  Sew securely in position across the outside along the neck,  and also sew together the two pieces of felt inside the back of the mouth.  This might require some 'patience'  and little maneuvering  but take your time and recheck your positioning frequently while sewing to make sure you're maintaining the position you want.

If needed,  add more stuffing to shape out the mouth area.  Don't overstuff though,  or the inside of the mouth will pucker and bulge out.

Add two very tiny pieces of white felt for 'teeth' on upper and lower jaws.


ALTERNATE HEAD/BODY:
For the 'closed mouth' option:

Rnd 1-15:  same as for head/body above.
Rnd 16:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 5 more times for a total of six decreases)  sc in each of remaining 10 sc of the round  (26)
Rnd 17:  sc in each of next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat once more for a total of two decreases)  sc in each of remaining 11 sc of round  (24)
Rnd 18-40:  same as for head/body above.
Remember when stuffing to shape head/neck area while stuffing.  Don't make a 'lower jaw' for this version of the doll.


HANDS/ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  10 sc in magic ring  (10)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round -  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 3-6:  working again in both loops – sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around.  (12)
F/O.  Stuff arm moderately. 

FINGERS/CLAWS:

Attach yarn to one of the 'free loops' from round 2 of arm.  Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. 
F/O.   Weave in loose ends.

LEGS / FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Stuff * very * lightly at this point.  You only need enough stuffing to give the leg a little 'puff'.  You'll need for one side of the leg to be flat against the body,  so don't over-stuff as this will make the job of attaching the leg to the body difficult.
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Weave in ends. 

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Do not stuff.  Weave tail through final round of foot and tug to close.  Weave in ends.

TOES:

Method 1:
Attach white yarn between round 2 and 3 of foot.  Ch 3.  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2,  Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2 on the other side of center,   Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 2 and 3.  F/O,  weave in ends.

Method 2:
Cut the toe shapes from white felt and sew or glue to front of foot in position desired.

BELLY SPOT:
Using tan

While most of the doll can be made using either the joining method of rounds,  or the continuous method of making rounds,  this particular piece will not work well with continuous rounds.  It's highly recommended that you join each round with a slip stitch in the top of the first sc of that round,  Ch 1 and begin the new round in the same stitch as the joining slip stitch.

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring,  join  (8)
Rnd 2:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join (16)
Rnd 3:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in last sc,   join (24)
Rnd 4:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (32)
Rnd 5:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in last sc,  join  (44)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Pin to front of body centered evenly between arms and legs as shown.

TAIL:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around to last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Rnd 3-20:  repeat rnd 2 (increasing each round by one stitch)   (25)
Rnd 21:  sc in each sc around.
F/O and stuff tail moderately firm.

TAIL STRIPE:
Using tan:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  sc in second ch from hook  (1)
Row 2:  2 sc in sc  (2)
Row 3-4:  sc in each sc across (2)
Row 5:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 6-7:  sc in each sc across (3)
Row 8:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 9-10:   sc in each sc across  (4)
Row 11:  sc in first 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 12-13:   sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 14:  sc in first 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 15-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in first 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 18-19:  sc in each sc across (7)
Row 20:  sc in first 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Row 21-22:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 23:  sc in first 7 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (9)
Row 24-30:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 31:  sc in first 7 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Row 32:  sc in first 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (7)
Row 33:  sc in first 5 sc,  dec over last 2 sc, (6)
Row 34-38:  sc in each sc across  (6)

You may need to adjust the number of rows between 34-38  (either add or subtract)  to get your stripe to fit from tip of tail to just past the center of the bottom of the body.  It is recommended that you first pin and sew all the other body parts before making the tail stripe,  so that you'll have a definite length that will be easier to work with.

F/O and stuff tail moderately firm. 

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Arms are flattened on the open end and attached to the upper body as shown.  Pin them first so that you can be sure of the placement and position before sewing.

The Feet are sewn to bottom of leg as shown,  and the legs are attached to the lower body as shown.  Pin first to be sure of placement and position before sewing.

Tail is sewn to back of lower body.  Belly plate is sewing to center of front of body between arms and legs as shown.   Tail stripe is sewn to the underside of the tail,  with point at the tip of the tail,  and larger end just meeting up with the belly plate at the bottom of the lower body.

Tail flames are just different sizes of 'flame shapes'  cut from red, orange and yellow felt... placed together at slightly different angles and sewn together at the base of the flames,  then sewn to the top of the tip of the tail.  (see pics for help)

Eyes are cut from white felt,  then black,  with blue 'scoops' at the bottom.   Small white ovals create the 'catch lights' at the upper end of the eye  (it really helps to find some good pictures online,  and see how the eyes are done)

Eyebrow and nostrils are simply straight stitches with either black or dark brown yarn placed as shown  (here again,  a good picture from online will be very helpful with the placement of these features).  If you're making the closed mouth version,  you may wish to look again at some pictures to determine if you want to embroider a mouth and if you do,  what design to use. 

Charmander  and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Umbreon Plushie

 

 

Well,  after many *many* requests,  I finally did an Umbreon.  I know this will bring about an onslaught of requests for the other 'Eevee-lutions'  and yes I'll get to them all...  eventually :D    It just depends on my yarn stash,  my time and well --- motivation.  LOL

As with all the patterns,  if you have any problems or if you notice anything wrong in the pattern  (I'm prone to typos LOL)  let me know and I'll get back to ya as soon as I can :D

-->

Umbreon

Materials:

WW Yarn black and yellow

G Hook

Fiberfill

Yellow, red, white and black felt scraps

Yarn Needle

BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 13: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (33)

Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (33)

Rnd 16: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 17-20: sc in each sc around (30)

This is a fairly good place to begin stuffing and shaping if you haven't already. Stuff fairly firmly while also shaping the body. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress.

Rnd 21: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (33)

Rnd 22: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 23-25: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 26: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 27: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 28: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 29: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 30: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping and weave the tail thread through the final round, pull gently to close up the small opening. Secure and weave in the tail yarn.

HEAD/NECK:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5-6: sc in each sc around (32)

Rnd 7: sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining 15 sc (33)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (33)

Rnd 9: sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc (35)

Rnd 10: sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 17 sc (36)

Rnd 11: sc in next 14 sc, * dec over next 2 sc *, repeat * * 3 more times, sc in remaining 14 sc (32)

Rnd 12: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 13: repeat rnd 12 (18)

Rnd 14: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc (20)

Rnd 15: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc (22)

Rnd 16: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc (24)

Stuff head firmly while shaping, pay particular attention to the 'nose' area. The head should be pinned to the upper portion of the body (roughly rnds 24-30) with nose area facing forward (the two 'points' of the neck shaping create the cape that create the gentle curve of the neckline. ) See photos to help with placement.

FRONT LEGS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

Rnd 5: repeat Rnd 4 (8)

Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without overstuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 6-8: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 9: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Row 11-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Do not fasten off at this point, continue with shoulder and either right or left leg instructions:

Begin Shoulder:

Right leg:

Row 13: sc in next 6 sc, leave remaining sc unworked, ch 1 and turn (6)

Row 14: sc in each sc across, ch 1 and turn  (6)

Row 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch 1 and turn (5)

Row 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)

F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that the 'inside' of the leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Complete rows 13 through 16 as described for right leg.

F/O.

BACK LEGS:

Rnd 1-5: Same as for front leg

Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (8)

Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without overstuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 8: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 10: Repeat rnd 8 (18)

11-12: sc in each sc around (18)

Do not fast off, continue with 'cape/shoulder' for either right or left leg:

Right Leg:

Row 1: Sc 9, leave remaining sc unworked, ch1 and turn (9)

Row 2: sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc,  ch1 and turn (8)

Row 3: sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn  (7)

Row 4: sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc,  ch1 and turn(6)

Row 5: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn (5)

Row 6: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc, (4)

F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that inside of leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Continue with shoulder as described for Right Leg.

EARS (make 2):

Begin with black:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around, change to yellow yarn in last sc of round, drop black to back of work but do not fasten off

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around, change back to black yarn in last sc of round 9, cut yellow leaving a tail of several inches, (carry tail along with work for the first several stitches of the next round to secure it) (12)

Begin stuffing at this point, ears should be stuffed fairly firmly. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 10-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finished out the shape of the ear.

Tail:

Begin with black:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 7-8, sc in each sc around, change to yellow yarn in last sc of round (15)

Begin stuffing at this point, tail should be stuffed fairly firmly. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around, change to black in last sc of round 11, f/o yellow yarn (15)

Rnd 12-14: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finalize the shaping and weave in tail.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend that you pin all parts together before you begin to sew them, to make certain all parts are as you like and in the position you prefer.

Head is sewn to body as shown, take your time and pin the head on first, making sure that the neck is adequately stuffed, and that the 'nape' of the neck is positioned so as to create the curve of the neck. (See the pictures to help you position the head)

For the yellow markings, cut 5 oval shapes from yellow felt, then cut out the center of each to make the 'rings'. Pin one of them to the head, between the ears and slightly to the front. The other four are each sewn onto the 'shoulders' of the leg pieces. You can do this before you sew the legs to the body, but I would recommend that you first pin the legs in the positions you want on the body, and then pin the markings to the legs as you prefer them, then unpin the legs and sew on the markings (or you can wait to add the markings after sewing on the legs.)

When sewing the legs on, you will probably want to add a little stuffing under each 'shoulder'. Not much stuffing is generally required here, just enough to give a very slight 'roundness' to the shoulder/hip area – and make a smooth transition from leg to 'body'.

Ears and tail are positioned and sewn on as shown.

Eyes are cut from red and black felt scraps, in shapes as shown. Catch lights are very small pieces of white felt.

Umbreon and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Despicable Minion

The Minion pattern is no.longer available on the site.

It's now the property of the movie studios NBC Universal.  NBCU owns the Craftsy website and they have it available as a kit here 

Linda

( Dated: Tuesday, June 13, 2017  )

Chikorita Plushie

Well after many requests (and finally getting the yarn I needed) Chikorita has arrived.  LOL
The top picture shows the  colors closer to what they actually are,  the other two pictures for some reason turned out a bit on the 'bluish' side,  but hopefully will still at least give you an idea of how the doll is put together.  I'm really a much better designer than a photographer.  :D
The eye colors aren't exactly right either,  but that's purely because I simply didn't have the right two shades of red.  All I had was red and a brown color  (Walmart doesn't really have an extensive selection of felt shades  LOL)
As always,  if you have any troubles or questions about the pattern,  just post or email me,  and I'll answer you as quickly as I can. :D

CHIKORITA

MATERIALS:

WW yarn (medium) in Light sage, dark sage and white

G hook

Fiberfill

Yarn Needle

Small scraps of felt in desired colors for eyes (orange, red and white)

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important for this, as long as your yarn, hook and tension result in a fairly tight stitch that won't let the stuffing poke through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches in that round or row.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-16: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 17: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc around to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (38)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (38)

F/O. Stuff head moderately firmly while shaping.

BODY:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 7-25: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 26: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (35)

Rnd 27: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 28: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)

Rnd 29: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (14)

Rnd 30: dec over next 2 sc around (7)

F/O. Leave tail. Weave tail through last round, tug to close up. Secure and weave in end.

FEET: (make 4)

Starting with white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring - change to light green in last sc. (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 8: sc in first 7 sc of round, leave remaining sc as is (7)

F/O. Stuff moderately firmly.

TAIL:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)

Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (14)

F/O. Stuff moderately firmly. Weave in end.

BUDS:

(make 7)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (6)

F/O. Stuff the 'bud' with the tails of yarn, that's probably all the stuffing you'll need in them.

LEAF:

(make 2)

Row 1: ch 2, sc in second chain from hook (1)

Row 2: 2 sc in sc (2)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in last sc (3)

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (4)

Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (5)

Row 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (6)

Row 7: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (7)

Row 8: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (8)

Row 9: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc (9)

Row 10-20: sc in each sc around (9)

Row 21: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (8)

Row 22: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (7)

Row 23: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (6)

Row 24: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (5)

Row 25: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (4)

Row 26: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc (3)

Row 27-30: sc in each sc across (3)

Row 31: 2 sc in each sc across (6)

F/O. Place the two leaves together and whip stitch around edges. At stem and base (rows 26-31) fold together and whip stitch, leaving the final row 'open'.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all parts together before sewing to ensure you have everything made and that all the parts are positioned as you like.

Sew head to body positioned as shown. Leaf is sewn to top center of head as shown, you may wish to tack the leaf to one side of the head (optional). Buds are sewn around the neck at the point where the head joins the body. Position the first bud center of the front, and remaining buds evenly spaced around the neck.

Front legs are sewn slightly under the front of the body, while back legs are positioned slightly to each side (as shown). Legs should be positioned so that the last row of 7 sc is facing up and outward (giving the legs a light tilt).

Tail is sewn to the center of backside of body with 'longer' side facing down to give the tail a slight upsweep.

Face is pieces of felt cut into the correct shapes (as shown) and sewn on, while the mouth is simply embroidered as shown.

Chikorita and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (July 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.