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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Rico-POM
Well, finally! I got Rico done. I know it took forever, but I live in central Texas and with all the horrible heat we were having I found it very difficult to get motivated to pick up hook and yarn. But that said, here he is.
As always, if you find any problems in the pattern or just have a question, post it here or email me (or you can always find me on my FaceBook Page )
MATERIALS:
WW yarn black white and orange
G Hook
Fiberfill
15mm Google Eyes
Tapestry Needle
Sewing Thread and Needle
NOTES:
Gauge isn't important to this doll. As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through, it's perfectly fine.
Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.
I recommend reading through the pattern and each set of instructions before beginning, to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.
Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable. It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part, and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.
BODY/HEAD
(using black)
Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7-30: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 31: Sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (44)
Rnd 32-33: sc in each sc around (44)
Rnd 34: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 35-36: sc in each sc around (40)
Begin stuffing at this point, stuff firmly and shape while stuffing. Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 37: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 38-39: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 40: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 41: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28)
Rnd 42: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 43: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 44: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 45: dec in next 2 sc around (8)
F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the head. Weave the tail through the last round of sc and tug to close up hole. Secure and weave in ends
WHITE BELLY SECTION
Rnd 1-6: same as for BODY/HEAD above (48 sc at end of rnd 6)
Rnd 7-8: sc in each sc around (48)
Row 9: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each sc around to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc. Do not join, turn (46)
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each sc around to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc. Turn (44)
Repeat row 10 until 18 sc remain, turn (do not fasten off)
Begin shaping upper portion:
Row 1-2: sc in each sc across (18)
Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each sc around to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc. Turn (16)
Row 4-5: sc in each sc across (16)
Row 6: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each sc around to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc. Turn (14)
Row 7-8: sc in each sc across (14)
Row 9: sc in first sc, hdc in next sc, dc in each of next 3 sc, hdc in next sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, hdc in next sc, dc in each of next 3 sc, hdc in next sc, sc in last sc
F/O and weave in ends.
BEAK:
(using orange)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc], sc in next 4 sc, in last sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc], sc in next 6 sc, in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc], sc in last sc
Rnd 6: sc in next 6 sc, in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc], sc in next 8 sc, in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc], sc in last 2 sc
Rnd 7: sc in next 7 sc, in next sc work [sc, chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains] sc in next 10 sc, in next sc work [sc, chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains], sc in last 3 sc.
F/O and weave in end.
WINGS:
Row 1: chain 5, sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (4)
Row 2-3: sc in each sc across , turn (4)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Row 5-16: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 17: sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (5)
Row 18: sc in each sc across (5)
Repeat rows 17 and 18 until 2 sc remain. Dec over those 2 sc (1)
F/O weave in ends. (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)
FEET (make 4):
Using orange/yellow:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: * chain 6, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain. Skip one sc, slip stitch in next sc * , repeat * to * twice more (for three toes). Secure and F/O weave in end
Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes. Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle, whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges. Secure and weave in ends.
LEG (make 2):
(On this particular character, the leg portion is purely optional. Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet, but once in a while you do. I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part. I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body, as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)
Begin with orange/yellow:
Rnd 1: chain 6, join to form a 'ring'. Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc, join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2: Chain 1, sc in same stitch as joining. * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc * repeat from * to * around to beginning, join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3: Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining. * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc * repeat from * to * around . F/O and secure tail, weave in end.
(when working the leg, you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok, just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)
Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')
FINAL ASSEMBLY:
I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing. This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.
The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretch up to the 'top' of the head as shown in the photo.
Beak is lightly stuffed and shaped - and is placed on the face area as shown. Rico has a deep 'smile' usually, and his beak is somewhat 'fatter' and appears slightly larger than the other penguins.
Feet are sewn underneath as shown.
Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue (I recommend E-6000 as it is very strong, washable, and will work on nearly every surface)
Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown.
The 'hair' is simply several pieces of black yarn cut to approx 5 inches long. Use your crochet hook to 'latch-hook' the hair pieces in a line along the top of the head as shown. After placing them, trim them down to length desired.
To make the 'scar'. Simply use some sewing thread and a needle and add the scar as desired on the left side of his face across the beak. His scar isn't a heavy one-it's almost not noticeable in most of the shows unless his face is shown just right, so go easy on it. :D
Rico and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.
This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
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