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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Snorlax Plushie


Well,  after many requests,  I finally made Snorlax.  (I know he's not blue,  but in my fire-red game he's a deep olive green, and I didn't have the right blue for him  LOL).  You of course,  can make him any color you like  :D

I posted only this one picture of him,  because frankly,  that's pretty much everything there is.  The pattern is pretty straightforward,  with maybe a little fancy footwork on the face part,  but it's very easy really.

I made mine in the sitting position because he fits on the shelf better that way (and I couldn't see his little face if he was laying down up there).   But of course,  you can make him in any position that pleases you.  As usual I'm not really happy with his face,  but faces have always been the bane of existence.  I know y'all will do better on the face than I did  :D

As always,  if you have any trouble, have a question or find a problem in the pattern,  let me know and I'll get back to you ASAP.


Snorlax

MATERIALS:
WW yarn in your main color (green in example) and lighter color (tan in example) and a few yards of white for claws and 'toenails'
G hook
Fiberfill
Needle and thread to match yarn colors
Small bits of med brown felt (or yarn of similar color)
small amount of black embroidery thread

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important as long as your choice of yarn, hook and your individual tension result in a consistently firm stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

I join my rounds, but if you're most comfortable working in continuous rounds, then that's fine too.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

BODY:

Begin with lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around, change to main color in last sc of round (64)
Rnd 9-17: sc in each sc around (64)
Rnd 18: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56)
Rnd 19: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 20: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 21: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)
Rnd 24: dec over next 2 sc around (8)
F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping. Weave tail through final round and tug gently to close. Secure and weave in end.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7-14: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (24)
F/O. Do not close neck opening. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping.

EARS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

FACE INSET:

Using lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 8 sc,   2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 6 sc (40)
First point:
Sc in next 6 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)
Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)
Decrease over all three sc in row (1)
F/O. Weave in end.
Second point:
Attach yarn to next sc next to first point. Ch 1. sc in same stitch as joining, sc in next 5 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)
Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)
Decrease over all three sc in row (1)
F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to any sc (except either of the 'points). Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. Sc evenly around, putting 3 sc in each of the 'points'. Join to first sc with slip stitch. F/O.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 11-13: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 15-16: sc in each sc around. (12)
Stuff moderately firmly while shaping.
Rnd 17: Flatten end. Working through all layers, sc across end. (6)
F/O and weave in end.

CLAWS:
(using white)

Attach yarn between rows 2 and 3 of arm. Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch between rows 1 and 2.
Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in nearest side of center of beginning rnd (this may require a little manipulation).
Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch on other side of center of beginning rnd. (again, may require some manipulation.)
Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 1 and 2.
Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 2 and 3.
F/O and weave in ends.

(Alternately, you can cut a piece of white felt in a strip with five small points and sew to end of arm)

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, sc in last 12 sc (40)
Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 10: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 7 more times, for a total of 8 decreases) sc in last 12 sc (32)
Rnd 11: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around, change to main color in last sc of round. (16)
Rnd 13: working in front loops only for this round, sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (16)
F/O and weave in end. Stuff foot moderately firm while shaping. Stuff leg moderately.

TOENAILS (make 6):

Using white:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)
Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)
F/O. Trim ends to about 2 inches or so and stuff them inside the 'nail'. This is probably all the stuffing you'll need for these.
Sew three toenails on the top side of each foot (as shown). Cut a circle of the medium brown felt and sew to the center of the foot (as shown).

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before you sew them on. This gives you the opportunity to 'play' with positioning, and make small adjustments.

Face inset is sewn to head as shown. Ears are sewn to top of head placed as shown. Head is sewn to body (if making him in a sitting position, you may wish to consider having his head tilt down and to the side as if he'd just dozed off).

Arms are sewn to the sides of the body near where the head is sewn on.

Legs are sewn to body either in sitting position or in sleeping position.

Facial features are simply embroidered with black thread. Two tiny triangles are the 'fangs'.

Snorlax and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

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