Emolga Plush

Well it took me forever to get this pattern typed out and posted here....  too much going on and not nearly enough 'spare' time LOL.

As always,  I'm not entirely happy with the face  (I always wish I could do the faces better).  The pictures don't show the tail structure,  something happened to the camera and the other pics we took of the back got corrupted,  but I'll get the kids to get some better pics of the back and tail and add them here ASAP.

The pattern is a little different when it comes to the 'wings'  it's not an 'exact' pattern,  it's just a set of basic instructions --  because every Emolga is going to need a slightly different size wing to fit properly.  Please read through that part completely before beginning so that you'll have a pretty good idea of how it should work.

I'm REALLY hoping to get another doll made soon,  now that the taxes are behind us (whew),  my daughter's birthday will be past us as well....and garden planting season is winding down a bit....I HOPE to have more of my time for myself  LOL

As usual,  if you find anything wrong in the pattern,  or just have a question,  please feel free to either post here, or send me a quick email at WolfDreamerOTH (at) gmail.com.

Materials:

WW Yarn in white, black and yellow

Size 6 hook

Fiberfill

Small scraps of felt in black (eyes), white (ear inset and eyes) and yellow (cheek patches)

NOTES:

Gauge is not important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook size and individual tension result in a fairly firm fabric.

Some of the parts (wing span) may require adjustment on your part. Since everyone crochets slightly different tension and this, combined with different brands of yarn and stuffing may result in you needing to shorthen or lengthen the wing to fit your doll properly.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of the instructions for each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row (to give you something against which to check your work for accuracy)

BODY:

(using white yarn)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: *sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 4: *sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (32)

Rnd 5: *sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (40)

Rnd 6: *sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 7: *sc in the next 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (56)

Rnd 8-16: sc in each sc around (56)

Rnd 17: *sc in next 12 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (52)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (52)

Rnd 19: *sc in next 11 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (48)

(if you haven't begun stuffing yet, now is a good time to begin. Stuff body firmly and shape while stuffing. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress)

Rnd 21: *sc in next 10 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (44)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (44)

Rnd 23: *sc in next 9 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (40)

Rnd 24: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 25: *sc in next 8 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 26: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 27: *sc in next 5 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (30)

Fasten off (F/O) your yarn, weave in your end. Add a little extra stuffing at the neck opening. You want some stuffing 'bulging' out of the opening, so that when you place the head on the neck opening it will create a firm join and will be less likely to 'flop' at the neck.

HEAD:

Beginning with white yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 7: *sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (42)

Rnd 8: *sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 9: *sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around, change to black yarn in last stitch of round (54)

Rnd 11-18: sc in each sc around (54)

Rnd 19: *sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 20: *sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (42)

(begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, stuff firmly and shape as you stuff. Continue to stuff and shape as you progress)

Rnd 21: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 22: *sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 23: *sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 22: *sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 21: *sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (12)

F/O. Add any stuffing that may be needed to finish shaping the head. Weave the tail through the last round of sc, tug up gently to close the opening completely. Secure the yarn and weave in your ends.

Hand/Arms (make 2)

Rnd 1: Ch 6. Sc in second sc from hook and in each sc across (you should have 5 sc at this point), now turn your work so that the bottom of the chain is now facing up and sc in the 'free' loop of each chain across. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc . (10 sc in an 'elongated' round)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 3: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 8: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc around.

F/O and stuff arm evenly and firmly. Weave in end.

Hand:

On the closed end of the arm (at rnd 1) attach your yarn to one corner of the end. Chain 2. *hdc, chain 1, sc in next place on the 'hand' part of arm; repeat from * twice more – placing your final sc on the 'edge' of the hand portion of the arm (so that the fingers are 'evenly' spaced across)

F/O and weave in end

FEET:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3-8: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O. Feet are flattened and generally don't need any stuffing (if you wish to have slighter 'rounder' shaped feet, you can VERY lightly stuff the feet before you add them to the body portion of the doll.

WINGS:

Here's where it gets a little fussy. LOL. You will very likely need to 'judge' the size/length of this piece so that it will fit your Emolga properly. I'm giving you 'general' instructions here for this part, but you will need to periodically hold the piece up next to the doll (with arms/feet/head pinned securely in place) to make sure it will fit correctly. BE SURE to write down how many sc across you end up using, and how many rows you crochet down and how many decrease rows you make so that your yellow side can be made the same.

Begin with black yarn. Chain approx 40 (check up against your doll to ensure that this chain reaches easily from fingertip to fingertip. If you need, add more chains or remove some to get the fit right)

Sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn and work one more row evenly. At this point, check the length up against the doll again for fit (the first few rows can slightly alter the length of your piece so this is just a safety check to prevent you from doing much more work before you might need to start again to get the fit right)

Once you're happy with the length of this piece, continue working back and forth evenly until the piece when placed at the based of the head and across the arms, is nearly 1 and a half inches from the bottom of the body portion of the doll.

On next row, dec over next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc again and then sc evenly across to last 4 sc. Dec twice and turn.

(Don't forget to make notes about how many rows/decrease rows etc you need for the next part)

Repeat that row about twice more (you may need to add another to reach the bottom of the body).

F/O and weave in your ends.

Using the yellow yarn, make another 'wing' just like the first one. Sew the two pieces together as shown (I used a light yellow sewing thread and sewing needle to prevent too much bulking at the edges and make the seam less noticeable.)

EARS:

(make 2 in black:)

Row 1: chain 5, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (4)

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (6)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (8)

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (10)

Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (12)

Row 6-14: sc in each sc across; turn

Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc; turn (10)

Row 16: sc in each sc across (10)

Row 17: repeat row 15 (8)

Row 18: repeat row 16 (8)

(make 2 in yellow:)

Row 1: chain 4, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (3)

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (5)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (7)

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (9)

Row 5-14: sc in each sc across; turn

Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc; turn (7)

Row 16: sc in each sc across (7)

Row 17: repeat row 15 (5)

Row 18: repeat row 16 (5)

F/O and weave in ends.

Place a yellow ear part and a black ear part together (the black will be slightly larger than the yellow. Attach Black yarn to one bottom end (the flatter end) and begin to sc evenly around the ear (going through both the black and yellow pieces) you may need to work 2 sc in each sc when you reach the 'top' rounded edge to keep the shape as you like. A little bit of 'turn' to the inside is fine, and in fact I kinda liked that, it seemed more natural.

Continue scing evenly to bottom of ear (don't sc across the bottom, leave it 'open' because it makes sewing the ears onto the head much easier).

Get a piece of scrap paper and cut out shapes for the white part (ear inset). Place the paper against the insde of the ear and trim if necessary to make sure the shape/size is as you want it. Using that paper piece as a template, cut out two white pieces of felt and carefully sew to the inside of the ear (using white sewing thread and needle)

TAIL:

(make 2 using black)

Row 1: chain 21, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across; turn (20)

Row 2: sc in each chain across (20)

Row 3: sc in each of next 12 sc; turn, leaving remaining sc unworked)

Row 4: sc in each sc across, at end of row, chain 5,

Row 5: sc in 2^nd chain from hook, and in each remaining chain and in each of the 12 sc. ; turn (16)

Row 6: slip stitch across first 5 sc. Chain 1, sc in same sc as last slip stitch and each sc to end of row; turn

Row 7: sc in each sc to end of row, turn

Row 8: sc in each sc to end of row, chain 5

Row 9: sc in 2^nd chain from hook, and in each remaining chain and in each of the row.

F/O and weave in ends. Place the two pieces together (matching them up as well as possible) and using sewing thread and needle, sew the two pieces together. At the point where the tail will 'meet' the body, either sc a couple of rounds of yellow. You can also use a small piece of yellow felt for the end of the tail.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all the pieces together and make sure you're happy with the placement/size/ etc of the various parts.

Sew the parts together securely. Sew the 'wings' across the back from fingertip to fingertip and just at the 'base' of the back of the head. Tack the 'wings' to the bottom center of the body as well.

Sew feet, ears and tail on as desired.

Cut templates for eyes from scrap paper, then when you're pleased with the size/shape of the eye, use the paper template to cut out your felt pieces for the eyes. Cut circles for the 'cheek patches' from yellow felt.

Cut 'points' from black for the brow patches on the face.

After pinning brow patches, eyes and cheek patches in place so that you're satisfied with them, carefully sew in place. Then embroider the nose/mouth.

Emolga and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (April 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not reprint, sell or distribute the pattern; or sell items made from this pattern.  

Rico-POM

Well,  finally!  I got Rico done.  I know it took forever,  but I live in central Texas and with all the horrible heat we were having I found it very difficult to get motivated to pick up hook and yarn.   But that said,  here he is.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern or just have a question,  post it here or email me (or you can always find me on my FaceBook Page )



MATERIALS:
WW yarn black white and orange
G Hook
Fiberfill
15mm Google Eyes
Tapestry Needle
Sewing Thread and Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through the pattern and each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.


BODY/HEAD

(using black)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7-30:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 31:  Sc in next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (44)
Rnd 32-33:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 34:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 35-36:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing at this point,  stuff firmly and shape while stuffing.  Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 37:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 38-39:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 40:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 41:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 42:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 43: sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 44:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 45:  dec in next 2 sc around  (8)
F/O.   Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the head.  Weave the tail through the last round of sc and tug to close up hole.   Secure and weave in ends

WHITE BELLY SECTION

Rnd 1-6:  same as for BODY/HEAD above  (48 sc at end of rnd 6)
Rnd 7-8:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Row 9:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Do not join, turn  (46)
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (44)

Repeat row 10 until 18 sc remain,  turn  (do not fasten off)

Begin shaping upper portion:

Row 1-2:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (16)
Row 4-5:  sc in each sc across  (16)
Row 6:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn   (14)
Row 7-8:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 9:  sc in first sc,  hdc in next sc,   dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O  and weave in ends.

BEAK:
(using orange)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 4 sc,  in last sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 8 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last 2 sc
Rnd 7:  sc in next 7 sc,  in next sc work  [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains]  sc in next 10 sc,  in next sc work [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains],  sc in last 3 sc.
F/O and weave in end.

WINGS:

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain across,  turn (4)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across , turn  (4)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 5-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 18:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 17 and 18 until 2 sc remain.  Dec over those 2 sc  (1)
F/O  weave in ends.  (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)


FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):
(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretch up to the 'top' of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is lightly stuffed and shaped - and is placed on the face area as shown.  Rico has a deep 'smile' usually,  and his beak is somewhat 'fatter' and appears slightly larger than the other penguins.

Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown.

The 'hair' is simply several pieces of black yarn cut to approx 5 inches long.  Use your crochet hook to 'latch-hook' the hair pieces in a line along the top of the head as shown.  After placing them,  trim them down to length desired.

To make the 'scar'.  Simply use some sewing thread and a needle and add the scar as desired on the left side of his face across the beak.   His scar isn't a heavy one-it's almost not noticeable in most of the shows unless his face is shown just right,  so go easy on it.  :D

Rico and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Kowalski-POM

Ok,  here's the Kowalski doll...  I'm sorry that I only have this one photo,  but for some reason,  all the others came out terribly blurred - and the winds were giving us fits and he wouldn't stay upright LOL.  I'll try and get some more (and better) pics soon.  His feet are oddly positioned in this one,  but it's the only way we could get him to stand up in the winds  :D

For the most part,  he's very similar to the other two,  with a few differences such as height and he's a little skinnier and the wings are of course a bit longer.   I'm going to take a bit of a break before attempting to work on Rico,  my wrists are giving me a bit of trouble after working on these three so closely together,  but I won't take *too* long to get Rico up here as well.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern,  or just get confused,  let me know here and I'll get back to you ASAP.


MATERIALS:
WW yarn in black and white,  with a small amount of orange/yellow for beak and feet
G hook
15mm google eyes
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Sewing thread in suitable colors to match yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.

HEAD/BODY:

(using black for the body -  then the white belly part is slipped snugly over the body and sewn together)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in the next 19 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 19 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (42)
Rnd 7-40:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly but don't overstuff.  Shape body while stuffing,  continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 41:  sc in next 19 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 19 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (40)
Rnd 42:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 43:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 44:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 45:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 46:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 47:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 48:  sc in each sc around  (28)
Rnd 49:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 50:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 51:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 52:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 53:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O  Add any stuffing needed to finish out shaping.   Weave tail through final round of stitches,  tug gently to close opening.  Secure end and weave in.

WHITE BELLY PIECE:

Using white yarn:

Rnd 1-6:  same as for body
Rnd 7-9:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Beginning with row 10,  you will no longer be working in rounds, but in rows.  At the end of each row turn your work so that you'll be working back across the stitches you just made.  I personally do not use a turning chain,  but make my first sc in the very last sc of the previous row.  This creates and stronger and cleaner edge for the stitches later.
Row 10:   dec over first 2 sc,  sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn your work   (40)
Row 11:  sc in each sc across,  turn  (40)
Row 12-30:  repeat rows 10 and 11.  (until you have 20 sc across)
Row 31-32:  repeat row 10  (16)
Row 33-36:  sc in each sc across (16)
Row 37 and 38:  2 sc in the first sc of the row,  sc across remaining scs (18 at end of row 38)
Row 39-40:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 41:  slip stitch in first 4 sc,  sc across 10 sc,  turn  (leave remaining sc unworked)  (10)
Row 42-44:  sc in each sc across  (10)
Row 45:  sc in next 5 sc,  turn,  sc back across the 5 sc,  turn,  dec over first 2 sc,  sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Slip stitch down the sides of the rows just worked back to the row with 10 sc.  Sc in next five sc,  turn, sc back across the 5 sc,  turn,  dec over the first 2 sc,  sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Slip stitch back down to the row of 10 sc,  Slip stitch to secure and F/O.  Weave in your end.

EDGING:

Attach yarn to center back of piece.  Sc in same stitch as joining,  and sc evenly around the sides.  Work 3 sc in each of the  outside 'corners'  at the top of the piece.  Following the shaping around,  sc evenly back down the other side to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
F/O and weave in end.


FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):

(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

BEAK:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in last sc  (14)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sc,  (hcd, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 6 sc,  (hcd, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  (hdc, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last 2 sc.
F/O.  Flatten and shape beak as desired.  I did find that for Kowalski,  a tiny bit of stuffing (mostly in the center portion to fill it out better)  worked well for the overall design of this doll.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across , turn  (4)
Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn (4)
Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc , turn (6)
Row 6-24:  sc in each sc across (6)
Row 25:  sc in first 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 26:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 25 and 26 until 1 sc remains.
F/O.  Weave in end.   (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretched up towards  the top of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is placed on the face area as shown. I found with Kowalski that a tiny bit of stuffing in the beak gave it a shape more consistent with the character.    Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown and positioned as you like.   I used a little sewing thread to tack the wings in the positions you see in the pics here.


Kowalski and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.


This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Skipper

Cute and Cuddly Boys!

Ok.  I am a HUGE Penguins of Madagascar fan.  These guys I'm doing for me mostly...  I actually purchased the yarn to make all four of them.  This is of course only Skipper,  but the other three will be following in the next couple of weeks.   (Give me at least a week between, maybe more ...  I can't work too much or I'll blow out my wrists again and I don't want to do that)

The pattern might seem a little strange when you first read it through,  but just take it one part at a time.   The beak particularly might give you fits,  but just keep at it... it took me a while to get it too,  but the work is worth it  :D

If you find any problems in the pattern,  or if you just get totally confuzzled,  let me know and I'll do my best to help you out!  

MATERIALS: 

 WW yarn in black and white,  with smaller amount in a medium orange

G Hook

Fiberfill

Sewing thread and needle

15 mm Googly Eyes  (or similar eyes of your choice)

NOTES:

Gauge is not important for this item

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

This pattern has some 'different' shaping.  It's helpful if you read through each section before you begin,  to try and get a feel for how the shaping is going to progress.   Remember that most often,  the final shape of the piece won't be noticeable until the stuffing process is done.

HEAD/BODY:

With black:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)

Rnd 4:  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5:  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of next 4 sc,  sc in last 6 sc  (40)

Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 7: Working in Back loops only for this round, sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 9:  Sc in each of next 9 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each last 9 sc  (44)

Rnd 10-12:  sc in each sc around  (44)

Rnd 13:  sc in each of the next 10 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the next 20 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the last 10 sc  (48)

Rnd 14-18:  sc in each sc around  (48)

Rnd 19:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc (repeat decrease one more time),  sc in each of next 20 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  (repeat decrease once more),  sc in each of last 10 sc  (44)

Rnd 20-21:  sc in each sc around  (44)

If you haven't already begun stuffing ,  this is a good place to start.  Stuff fairly firmly,  but don't overstuff.   Continue to stuff and shape the body as you progress.

Rnd 22:  sc in each of next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease one more time),  sc in each of next 18 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (decrease one more time),  sc in each of last 9 sc  (40)

Rnd 23-32:  sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 33:  sc in each of next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 18 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, sc in each of last 9 sc  (38)

Rnd 34-39:  sc in each sc around  (38)

Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (19)

Rnd 41:  dec over next 2 sc around,  sc in last sc  (10)

F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finalize shaping.  (Top of Skipper's head should be 'flat',  resembling a military style haircut)  Weave tail through last round of crochet,  pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in end.

WHITE FRONT SECTION:

Using white:

Rnd 1-8:  Same as for body 

Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 10: Slip stitch across first 4 sc. Ch 1,  sc in next sc.  Sc in each sc across to last 4 sc.  Turn work (leaving last 4 sc unworked)   (32)

Row 11-13:  sc in each sc across,  turn work at end of each row.  (32)

Row 14:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (30)

Row 15:  sc in each sc across  (30)

Row 16:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (28)

Row 17:  sc in each sc across  (28)

Row 18:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (26)

Row 19:  sc in each sc across  (26)

Row 20:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (24)

Row 21:  sc in each sc across  (24)

Row 22:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (22)

Row 23:  sc in each sc across  (22)

Row 24:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (20)

Row 25:  sc in each sc across  (20)

Row 26:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (18)

Row 27:  sc in each sc across  (18)

Row 28:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)

Row 29:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)

Row 30:  sc in each sc across  (14)

Row 31:  2 sc in the first sc,  sc in each sc across to the last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)

Row 32:  sc in each sc across (16)

Row 33: 2 sc in the first sc,  sc in each sc across to the last sc,  2 sc in last sc   (18)

Row 34:  sc in each sc across  (18)

Row 35: Chain 2, 2 dc in same stitch as turning.  hdc in next sc,  sc across to last 2 sc.  Hdc in next to last sc,  3 dc in last sc.

F/O.  Weave in end.

EDGING:

Attach yarn to center of back of the piece  (the last 'round' before beginning working in rows).   Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining.  Sc evenly around piece to 'top' corner.  3 sc in corner,  sc in next 2 sc.  Chain 2,  2 dc in same sc,   hdc in next sc,  sc in each sc across to last 5 sc.  Hdc in next sc,  2 dc in next sc, chain 2,  sc in each sc to corner,  3 sc in corner stitch.  Continue to sc around the edge evenly.  Slip stitch to first sc.

F/O. Weave in end.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  Chain 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn  (5)

Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn  (5)

Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc, turn  (7)

Row 6-20:  sc in each sc across, turn  (7)

Row 21:  sc in first 5 sc of row,  dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)

Row 22:  sc in each sc across, turn  (6)

Repeat rows 21 and 22 until 3 sc remain in row

Dec over the 3 sc (1 sc left)

F/O.  Weave in ends.

FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end   

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.

Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.

Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.  

(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')   

BEAK:

The instructions for the beak may seem confusing at first,  the increases are different than the 'standards'  because you're expanding the sides drastically, while keeping the top/bottom portions relatively even.  This will create a 'curve' shape and then on the last round,  you have to add the 'smile'  (or side portions of the beak).   If you get confused,  just take it one round at a time...  it may take you a few tries to get it right  (it did me too).  It does work,  it just might take a little practice to get it right.  I recommend working a little tight on the beak  if you normally crochet loosely.

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)

Rnd 3:  sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 DC in the next sc,   sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 DC in the last sc  (8)

Rnd 4:  sc in each of the next 3 sc,  2 DC in the next sc,  sc in each of the next 3 sc,  2 DC in the last sc  (10)

Rnd 5:  sc in each of the next 4 sc,  in the next sc work the following [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in each of the next 4 sc,  in the next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]  (14)

Rnd 6:  sc in each of the next 5 sc,  in the next sc,  work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in each of the next 6 sc,  in the next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc  (18)

Rnd 7: sc in each of next 7 sc,  chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, skip one stitch, slip stitch in next stitch,  sc in each of next 7 stitches,   chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, skip one stitch, slip stitch in last stitch,  slip stitch to join to first stitch of round.

F/O,  weave in end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend that you pin the pieces together before sewing anything,  to ensure that you're happy with the placement before making anything permanent.  The beak will need to be 'shaped'  as you pin...  by creating the 'scoops'  along the top of the beak,  and a slight 'smile' to the side portions as you pin.  Fiddle around with it till you're pleased with the overall look.

The white portion of the body fits over the bottom end of the black portion (the 'bowl' end of the white section should fit snugly over the bottom of the body portion).     The 'front' is stretched upwards towards the top of the head  (as shown).

The wings are placed on either side,   the sloped side of the wing faces to the back of the penguin,  with the flat end  attached to the body.  You can position the 'wings' in whatever position you prefer once they're attached to the body.

The feet/legs are sewn to the bottom,  with the feet pointing slightly outwards.  the legs should be fairly firmly stuffed ...  and if the stuffing seems to want to 'ooze' out while you're sewing the legs on,  just tuck it in as you go around.

For the Tail,  I just added a few satin stitches to the back side to give the illusion of a slightly pointed tail.  I used the same black yarn as for the body,  with a yarn needle.  

The beak is positioned as shown,  and sewn carefully to the white portion of the 'face'.  You'll need to 'create'  the scooped nose as you sew  (as you had pinned it on earlier).   I didn't find a need for any stuffing in the beak,  but if it helps you create the bridge of the 'nose' portion between the eyes,  then that's ok too.

The eyes are glued on fairly close to the point of the bridge of the 'beak'.   I used a simple glue stick at first,  just to temporarily place them until I was happy with them... then I used a permanent glue to adhere them after I had sewn all the other parts in place.

The 'brow' portion of the face is made by chaining 10 or 12  (depending on your tension),  and then slip stitch back across the chain.   Sew the brow into place as shown  (or to create the expression you like best)

Skipper and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Charmander Plushie

Ok,  well.  After many requests I finally managed to get around to making a Charmander.  I know the pictures are terrible,  but hey  I'm not a photographer and neither my camera OR the weather are cooperating at the moment.    So it's inside photos for now y'all...  I'll try to get some other pics soon.

This pattern has two different 'versions'.   The one you see in the pictures,  with the open mouth,  and also instructions for the closed mouth  (which is a bit easier).   Read all the way through the pattern before starting,  so that you'll know which one you're going to do  :D

Should you find any problems or typos,  please let me know and I'll fix it as quickly as possible :D   As always,  if you have any questions,  feel free to ask I'll get back with ya as soon as I can!

Charmander

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in pumpkin (or similar color) and tan/natural
G hook
Fiberfill
Felt scraps in black, blue, white, yellow, red and orange
Sewing needle and thread in colors close to the felt colors
Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important on this project, as long as your choice of yarn and hook and your individual tension result in an even, firm stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

There are two ways to make this doll,  either with the open mouth (as shown)  or with a 'closed' mouth where you would add embroidered mouth features.  I'll include instructions for both types so that you can do the style you prefer.

HEAD/BODY:
(this is for the open mouth version of the head and body,  if you would prefer to make the 'closed mouth' version  (not shown in pictures)  begin with the alternate head and body below)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 11 sc,  Working in Front Loops only - 2 sc in each of next 10 sc,  Working now through both loops again -  sc in last 11 sc  (42)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 14:  sc in each of next 17 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat dec 3 more times,  for a total of 4 decreases) sc in each of last 17 sc of the round  (38)
Rnd 15:  sc in each of next 13 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (repeat dec 5 more times,  for a total of 6 decreases)  sc in each of last 13 sc of the round  (32)
Rnd 16:  sc in each next 10 sc,   chain 10,  skip next 12 sc,  sc in each of last 10 sc of the round  (20 sc, 10 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (when you reach the chains,  treat them exactly as you would sc stitches and continue the sc 3, dec) to end of round  (24)
Begin stuffing head at this point.  Stuff to 'nose' and mouth opening,  then continue stuffing as you progress.  Stuff firmly,  shaping nose and head/neck/body as you go.
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 22-24:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 25:  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (39)
Rnd 26-34:  sc in each sc around  (39)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 36:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 37:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 38:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 39:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the body shape.  Weave tail through final round and tug to close the hole. 

LOWER JAW:

Row 1:  Ch 9,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (8)
Row 2:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Row 4:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
Row 5:  dec over next 2 sc,  repeat decrease  (2)
F/O.

Attach yarn to a corner of Row 1.  Sc evenly around the sides and around the front to the opposite corner of Row1. 

F/O.   Weave in loose ends.  Cut a piece of red felt to fit just inside the lower jaw area,  and one to fit the 'upper' part of the mouth.   Using sewing thread and needle,  sew the felt to both parts.   If desired,  cut a small semi-oval of pink felt for the tongue and sew to the middle of the lower jaw.  Pin the lower jaw to the opening of the 'mouth' on the head/body piece.  Adjust to desired position.  Sew securely in position across the outside along the neck,  and also sew together the two pieces of felt inside the back of the mouth.  This might require some 'patience'  and little maneuvering  but take your time and recheck your positioning frequently while sewing to make sure you're maintaining the position you want.

If needed,  add more stuffing to shape out the mouth area.  Don't overstuff though,  or the inside of the mouth will pucker and bulge out.

Add two very tiny pieces of white felt for 'teeth' on upper and lower jaws.


ALTERNATE HEAD/BODY:
For the 'closed mouth' option:

Rnd 1-15:  same as for head/body above.
Rnd 16:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 5 more times for a total of six decreases)  sc in each of remaining 10 sc of the round  (26)
Rnd 17:  sc in each of next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat once more for a total of two decreases)  sc in each of remaining 11 sc of round  (24)
Rnd 18-40:  same as for head/body above.
Remember when stuffing to shape head/neck area while stuffing.  Don't make a 'lower jaw' for this version of the doll.


HANDS/ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  10 sc in magic ring  (10)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round -  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 3-6:  working again in both loops – sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around.  (12)
F/O.  Stuff arm moderately. 

FINGERS/CLAWS:

Attach yarn to one of the 'free loops' from round 2 of arm.  Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. 
F/O.   Weave in loose ends.

LEGS / FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Stuff * very * lightly at this point.  You only need enough stuffing to give the leg a little 'puff'.  You'll need for one side of the leg to be flat against the body,  so don't over-stuff as this will make the job of attaching the leg to the body difficult.
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Weave in ends. 

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Do not stuff.  Weave tail through final round of foot and tug to close.  Weave in ends.

TOES:

Method 1:
Attach white yarn between round 2 and 3 of foot.  Ch 3.  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2,  Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2 on the other side of center,   Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 2 and 3.  F/O,  weave in ends.

Method 2:
Cut the toe shapes from white felt and sew or glue to front of foot in position desired.

BELLY SPOT:
Using tan

While most of the doll can be made using either the joining method of rounds,  or the continuous method of making rounds,  this particular piece will not work well with continuous rounds.  It's highly recommended that you join each round with a slip stitch in the top of the first sc of that round,  Ch 1 and begin the new round in the same stitch as the joining slip stitch.

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring,  join  (8)
Rnd 2:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join (16)
Rnd 3:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in last sc,   join (24)
Rnd 4:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (32)
Rnd 5:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in last sc,  join  (44)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Pin to front of body centered evenly between arms and legs as shown.

TAIL:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around to last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Rnd 3-20:  repeat rnd 2 (increasing each round by one stitch)   (25)
Rnd 21:  sc in each sc around.
F/O and stuff tail moderately firm.

TAIL STRIPE:
Using tan:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  sc in second ch from hook  (1)
Row 2:  2 sc in sc  (2)
Row 3-4:  sc in each sc across (2)
Row 5:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 6-7:  sc in each sc across (3)
Row 8:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 9-10:   sc in each sc across  (4)
Row 11:  sc in first 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 12-13:   sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 14:  sc in first 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 15-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in first 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 18-19:  sc in each sc across (7)
Row 20:  sc in first 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Row 21-22:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 23:  sc in first 7 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (9)
Row 24-30:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 31:  sc in first 7 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Row 32:  sc in first 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (7)
Row 33:  sc in first 5 sc,  dec over last 2 sc, (6)
Row 34-38:  sc in each sc across  (6)

You may need to adjust the number of rows between 34-38  (either add or subtract)  to get your stripe to fit from tip of tail to just past the center of the bottom of the body.  It is recommended that you first pin and sew all the other body parts before making the tail stripe,  so that you'll have a definite length that will be easier to work with.

F/O and stuff tail moderately firm. 

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Arms are flattened on the open end and attached to the upper body as shown.  Pin them first so that you can be sure of the placement and position before sewing.

The Feet are sewn to bottom of leg as shown,  and the legs are attached to the lower body as shown.  Pin first to be sure of placement and position before sewing.

Tail is sewn to back of lower body.  Belly plate is sewing to center of front of body between arms and legs as shown.   Tail stripe is sewn to the underside of the tail,  with point at the tip of the tail,  and larger end just meeting up with the belly plate at the bottom of the lower body.

Tail flames are just different sizes of 'flame shapes'  cut from red, orange and yellow felt... placed together at slightly different angles and sewn together at the base of the flames,  then sewn to the top of the tip of the tail.  (see pics for help)

Eyes are cut from white felt,  then black,  with blue 'scoops' at the bottom.   Small white ovals create the 'catch lights' at the upper end of the eye  (it really helps to find some good pictures online,  and see how the eyes are done)

Eyebrow and nostrils are simply straight stitches with either black or dark brown yarn placed as shown  (here again,  a good picture from online will be very helpful with the placement of these features).  If you're making the closed mouth version,  you may wish to look again at some pictures to determine if you want to embroider a mouth and if you do,  what design to use. 

Charmander  and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.