Rico-POM

Well,  finally!  I got Rico done.  I know it took forever,  but I live in central Texas and with all the horrible heat we were having I found it very difficult to get motivated to pick up hook and yarn.   But that said,  here he is.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern or just have a question,  post it here or email me (or you can always find me on my FaceBook Page )



MATERIALS:
WW yarn black white and orange
G Hook
Fiberfill
15mm Google Eyes
Tapestry Needle
Sewing Thread and Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through the pattern and each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.


BODY/HEAD

(using black)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7-30:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 31:  Sc in next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (44)
Rnd 32-33:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 34:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 35-36:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing at this point,  stuff firmly and shape while stuffing.  Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 37:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 38-39:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 40:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 41:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 42:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 43: sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 44:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 45:  dec in next 2 sc around  (8)
F/O.   Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the head.  Weave the tail through the last round of sc and tug to close up hole.   Secure and weave in ends

WHITE BELLY SECTION

Rnd 1-6:  same as for BODY/HEAD above  (48 sc at end of rnd 6)
Rnd 7-8:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Row 9:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Do not join, turn  (46)
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (44)

Repeat row 10 until 18 sc remain,  turn  (do not fasten off)

Begin shaping upper portion:

Row 1-2:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (16)
Row 4-5:  sc in each sc across  (16)
Row 6:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn   (14)
Row 7-8:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 9:  sc in first sc,  hdc in next sc,   dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O  and weave in ends.

BEAK:
(using orange)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 4 sc,  in last sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 8 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last 2 sc
Rnd 7:  sc in next 7 sc,  in next sc work  [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains]  sc in next 10 sc,  in next sc work [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains],  sc in last 3 sc.
F/O and weave in end.

WINGS:

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain across,  turn (4)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across , turn  (4)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 5-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 18:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 17 and 18 until 2 sc remain.  Dec over those 2 sc  (1)
F/O  weave in ends.  (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)


FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):
(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretch up to the 'top' of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is lightly stuffed and shaped - and is placed on the face area as shown.  Rico has a deep 'smile' usually,  and his beak is somewhat 'fatter' and appears slightly larger than the other penguins.

Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown.

The 'hair' is simply several pieces of black yarn cut to approx 5 inches long.  Use your crochet hook to 'latch-hook' the hair pieces in a line along the top of the head as shown.  After placing them,  trim them down to length desired.

To make the 'scar'.  Simply use some sewing thread and a needle and add the scar as desired on the left side of his face across the beak.   His scar isn't a heavy one-it's almost not noticeable in most of the shows unless his face is shown just right,  so go easy on it.  :D

Rico and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Private-POM

Ok,  second in the group is Private.  Cute, naive,  and the youngest of the team...  he keeps them all grounded.   He loves his 'Lunacorn' doll...even if the others kid him about it.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern... or just get confused,  let me know - I'll get back at ya ASAP :D


MATERIALS:
WW yarn in black and white,  with a small amount of orange/yellow for beak and feet
G hook
15mm google eyes
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Sewing thread in suitable colors to match yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.

HEAD/BODY:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7-20:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 22-23:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 24:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 25-26:  sc in each sc around  (36)
If you haven't begun stuffing already,  now is a good time to begin.  Stuff firmly while shaping, but don't over stuff.    Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 27:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 28-34:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 36:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 37:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 38:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any last little bit of stuffing that is needed to finish the shaping.  Weave the tail through the final round of sc and tug to close up the opening.  Secure and weave in the end.

WHITE "BELLY" PIECE:

Rnd 1-6:  same as for head/body
Rnd 7-10:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 11:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Do not join,  turn your work  ( you will be working in rows from now on).  (46)
Row 12-25:  repeat round 11 (until 18 sc remain)  (18)
Row 26:  slip stitch over first 3 sc,  ch 1.   Sc in same stitch as last slip stitch.  sc across to last 2 sc.  Turn   (14)
Row 27-28:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 29:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Row 30:  repeat row 29  (18)
Row 31-32:  sc in each sc across (18)
Row 33:  slip stitch in next four sc,  * sc in next 5 sc,  turn your work,  sc back across the last 5 sc,  turn,   sc in first sc,  hdc in next,  dc in next,  hdc in next,  sc in last sc.  Slip stitch down the side back to row 32 *.  Repeat * to *,  slip stitch to end of row.
F/O weave in end.

EDGING:

Attach yarn to center back of piece.  Sc in same stitch as joining,  and sc evenly around the sides.  Work 3 sc in each of the  outside 'corners'  at the top of the piece.  Following the shaping around,  sc evenly back down the other side to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
F/O and weave in end.

FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):
(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

BEAK:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc, (hdc, dc, hdc) in last sc  (14)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sc,  (hcd, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  (hdc, dc, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 6 sc,  (hdc, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  (hdc, chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each of next 2 chains, hdc) in next sc,  sc in last 2 sc.
F/O.  Flatten beak to shape.  Stuffing shouldn't be needed.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across , turn  (4)
Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn (4)
Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc , turn (6)
Row 6-14:  sc in each sc across (6)
Row 15:  sc in first 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 16:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 15 and 16 until 1 sc remains.
F/O.  Weave in end.   (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretch up to the 'top' of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is placed on the face area as shown.  Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown.


Private and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.


This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Azumarill

I made this doll right now for several reasons.  First off,  it's coming up to Easter,  and what more perfect of a pokemon for the Easter Baskets?  Part Easter Egg,  part Bunny --  and in it's shiny form,  it's a Yellow-Gold color - so both forms are perfect.   Won't he be adorable nestled down in that obnoxious fake grass snuggled up next to the Jelly-Bellies and the little yellow marshmallow peeps?

The other reason I wanted to make this one,  is that I felt like making a slightly easier pattern.  The last pattern  (Michaelangelo) was fairly complex - and I wanted a pattern that would be quick enough to make up a few for the kids' easter baskets :D

As always,  if you find any typos, mistakes or just get confused,  give me a holler....  I'll get right on it  :D

MATERIALS:


WW yarn in blue, white and small amount of black (for tail)
Fiberfill
Small bits of felt for eyes, mouth, ear insets and spots
G Hook
Tapestry/Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match yarn and felt pieces

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important here,  but your choice of hook and yarn should result in a tight stitch that won't allow the fill to show through.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

BODY:

Beginning with white yarn:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6-11:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 12:  working in front loops only: sl st in next sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in next sc, hdc in next sc, *sl st in each of next 2 sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in next sc,  hdc in next sc*  repeat from * to * around to final stitch,  sl st in last sc of round.   F/O white.  (the 'waves' you've created may want to curve back to the front for now,  that's ok.  (40)
Rnd 13:  If you look just behind the round you just worked,  you'll notice a 'line' of free loops  (the back loop that was not worked through).   Attach your blue yarn to one of these loops and sc in the same loop.  Sc in each remaining loop around (40)
Rnd 14-16:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 17:  sc in each of next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Begin stuffing about this point if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly without over stuffing.  Shape the body as you stuff - continue stuffing and shaping as you progress.
Rnd 19:  sc in each of next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 21:  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (25)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around  (25)
Rnd 23:  sc in each of next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 25:  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (15)
Rnd 26:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
F/O.  Add any more stuffing needed to finish the shaping of the body.  It should be a nice 'egg' shape.   Weave the tail through the final round and tug to close opening.  Secure the yarn well and weave in end.   Using white sewing thread and sewing needle,  carefully sew the 'waves'  that are in front up to the blue section so that they're even and create the 'wave' effect desired around.  (see picture for help)

FEET:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-4:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 5:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (8)
Rnd 6-7:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Flatten the foot  (foot is not stuffed) - sc through all layers across  (4 sc)
F/O.  Weave in ends

ARMS:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2-7:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Flatten  (stuffing is not necessary for the arms).  Sc through all layers across (3sc)

EARS:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-7:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (11)
Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (11)
Rnd 10:   Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (10)
Rnd 11:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 12:   Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (9)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 14:  Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around   (8)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Flatten ears.   Fasten off.  (Ears aren't stuffed).    Cut two pieces of pink felt to fit just 'inside' the ears (see photo for reference).  Pin in place and using sewing thread and needle  (or fabric glue)  sew or glue securely in place.

TAIL:

Using black yarn,  chain 34  (or any multiple of 11 + 1)   Sc in first chain from hook and next 3 chains.  * 3 sc in next chain,  sc in next 4 chains,  dec over next 2 chains,  sc in next 3 chains *  repeat * to * to end  (where exactly you end in the sequence doesn't matter much).   F/O and sew to bottom back of doll using one of the tails remaining.  Hide excess yarns  inside doll using crochet hook to pull the excess yarns inside of the doll.

BALL of TAIL:

Using blue:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Begin stuffing here.  Shape as you go,  continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the shape.  Just before you tug up the opening,  insert the other end of the tail,  pull tails to close opening and using yarn needle,  secure the opening and end of tail.  Weave in the loose end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Feet are sew to bottom of body as shown in photos.  Arms are sewn to the side of body just above the 'wave' of the white section.

Ears are sewn to top of head as shown.   Face details are made by cutting out small ovals for eyes,  and the mouth shape from felt and gluing or sewing them on.  (tiny white bits of felt for the catchlights in the eyes are easiest glued where possible  a small dot of white fabric paint also works)

Cut various sized circles for the 'dots' across the body.  I didn't do the circles around the back of mine,  but you can if you like.   I'm sure in 'pokemon nature'  no two azumarill's dots are exactly the same :D


Azumarill and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.


This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (April 2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

TMNT Michaelangelo

Ok,  well I don't guess this guy needs any real explanation or introduction.   Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles just recently celebrated their '27th' anniversary as some of the most beloved and well-known characters in our world.   I had intentions of making this doll a few years ago,  but just kept putting it off for one reason or another....and finally just had to do it.

Those of you who are followers of my FaceBook Page saw the 'sneak peek' a few days ago,  and the response was, to say the least,  incredible.   Turtles are something most of us can relate to,  since they've been around for so long.   I hope that this doll and pattern will please the 'hardcore' turtle fans who have been there since the beginning through all their 'changes'....  since this doll was mostly patterned after the 'old-school' original series.

Having been a fan of TMNT since the beginning myself,   I'm most fond of the 'original' series - thus the reason this doll is made that way.   The basic pattern can easily be made to create all four of the turtles,  by simply changing the colors of the bandana and the weapons to represent the turtle of your choice.   If I had enough greens to make them all I would...  but I'll leave that up to all the wonderfully creative crocheters out there!  :D

As always,  if you find any typoes or mistakes in the pattern,  please let me know,  I'll correct them ASAP.



Mikey

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in choice of green (with smaller amounts of brown, tan and colors for bandana)
G crochet Hook
Fiberfill
yarn needle
Small scraps of white and black felt for eyes/mouth

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important,  as long as your yarn, hook and tension result in stitches that are even and don't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

Magic ring instructions can be found easily by a websearch for 'crochet magic ring' .  YouTube also has some very good video instructions by searching for 'crochet magic ring' on YouTube.



HEAD:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6-10:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in each of next 15 sc,  sc in remaining 10 sc  (50)
Rnd 12-13:  sc in each sc around  (50)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly,  without overstuffing,  while shaping the 'face' as you go.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 16:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 17:  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (10)
F/O leaving a tail.  Finish adding any stuffing needed to shape head properly.  Weave the tail through the last row of 10 sc,  tug gently to 'close up' the opening.  Secure and weave in end.

BODY:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 6: sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 3 sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in each of remaining 3 sc  (34)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 16 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 16 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (36)
Rnd 8-9:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 15 sc,  2 sc in each of next 3 sc,  sc in next 15 sc,  2 sc in each of last 3 sc (42)
Rnd 11-20:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 15 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times), sc in next 15 sc, dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times)  (36)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 23:  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times),  sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times) (30)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff body firmly while shaping  but avoid overstuffing.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 25:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times),  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times)  (24)
Rnd 26:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 27:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Secure end and weave in.  Leave neck opening as is.

ARMS  (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around  (8)
Begin stuffing at this point,  do not overstuff but stuff moderately firmly to shape the 'muscles' of the shoulder, upper arm and lower arm as you progress.
Rnd 8: sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 9-11:  sc in each sc around  (even)
Rnd 12: sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (8)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 14-18: sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 19:  dec over next 2 sc around  (5)
Flatten end,  sc across opening through all layers  (3 sc)
Rnd 20:  chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand (rnd 19).   chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand  - two fingers made.   Chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch along 'side' of hand (between rnd 18 and 19) to create 'thumb'
F/O and weave end in.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 3-7:  (working again through both loops) sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
Rnd 9: 2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 10-15:  sc in each sc around  12)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 7 sc,  chain 7,  Join chain to first sc of this round.  (7 sc, 7 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in each sc and chain around (14)
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 19:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O.  Weave in ends.
Stuff the leg (while shaping).  Stuff moderately firm without overstuffing.  'Hip' is either not stuffed  (flattened) or *very* lightly stuffed.   Leg is pinned to side/bottom of body as shown,  with 'hip' cape/flap to the outside and 'opening' at top of leg underneath.    Very small amounts of stuffing can be added to the cape at the 'hip' to provide more shape if needed.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2-3:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 4:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 9:  Flatten 'foot',  sc across top through all layers  (6 sc).  Turn.
sc in next 3 sc,  turn,  sc in next 3 sc,  turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot,  slip stitch to next sc of row 9.   Sc in next 3 sc,  turn,  sc in next 3 sc,  turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot,  slip stitch to row 9  (between the two 'toes').
F/O, secure and weave in end.
(NOTE:  Feet in the doll shown were not stuffed,  just flattened.  If you wish to add a *very* small amount of stuffing to the feet to give them a little more 'size'  do this before you close the opening by sc across the top,  then proceed as is written from there)

Feet are sewn as shown to the bottom of the legs.  Make sure that you have the feet facing in the correct direction .  (I find that pinning the legs to the doll and then pinning/sewing the feet to the bottom of the legs is most helpful as it ensures you have the right direction on both of the feet,  and the best angle as well)

BELLY PLATE:

(using tan)

Row 1:  chain 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain across ,  turn  (5)
Row 2:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (7)
Row 3:  sc in each sc across  (7)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (9)
Row 5:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 6:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn   (11)
Row 7:  sc in each sc across  (11)
Row 8:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn    (13)
Row 9:  sc in each sc across  (13)
Row 10:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (15)
Row 11-24:  sc in each sc across  (15)
Row 25:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  slip stitch to next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
Row 26:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  slip stitch to next stitch,  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
Row 27:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  slip stitch to next stitch,  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
F/O.   Weave in ends.   Using brown yarn and yarn needle,  add the detailing to the plate as shown in photos.

SHELL:

(Using brown)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (32)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (40)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 9-10:  sc in each sc around  (48)

SHELL RIM:

Rnd 1:  ch 6,  join to make ring,  sc in each chain around (6)
Rnd 2-?:  sc in each sc around (6 sc each round) until the tube will easily reach around the outside of the shell (the number of rounds will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tensions differences)  Tube does not need to be stuffed, but if you wish, you can VERY lightly stuff the tube to give it more rigidity.   When the tube will easily fit around the outside edge of the shell,  F/O and sew ends of tube together.  Pin and sew tube to outside edge of shell.   Shell will be stuffed when sewn to the back of the turtle.

ELBOW/KNEE PADS:

Elbow pads (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Do not fasten off,  continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around arm at elbow  (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences).    F/O leaving tail.  Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'.  Weave in ends.

KNEE PADS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 hdc in each sc around  (16)
Do not fasten off,  continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around leg at knee  (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences)  F/O leaving tail.  Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'.  Weave in ends.

BANDANA:

Using color of choice:

Chain 2.  Sc in second chain from hook,  turn.
Sc in sc,  turn
2 sc in sc,  turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for approx. 20 rows  (more if you want a longer tail on the bandana)
Next row:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (4)
Continue with rows of 4 sc until this section of the bandana will just wrap around the head above the 'nose' as shown.
Next row:  Decrease over next 2 sc, twice, turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for the same length as before (2)
Decrease over next 2 sc, turn (1)
Sc in sc.
F/O, weave in ends.

"EYEBROWS":

Chain about 20  (check and see if you want more or less 'brow')   Place in the shape of the brows over the top of the bandana.  (this is probably best done after construction of the doll and eyes are in place so that you can see how much or how little 'brow' you want on your turtle)

BELT:

Chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next sc , turn (2)
Continue rows of 2 sc for length desired for belt.   Belt  goes around the shell,  so it's probably best to wait until doll is fully assembled before making the belt so that you can try it around the doll as you make it to ensure it's the length you want.

NUNCHUCKS:

(make 2)

Row 1:  Chain 11, sc in second chain from hook and each chain across,  turn  (10)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across, turn (10)
F/O leaving tail.  With yarn needle,  fold in half long ways and sew together with whip stitch.
Weave in tail.

Chain (make 1):

Chain approx 20 (or length desired).   Attach each end to one of the 'chucks'.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing to ensure you're happy with everything befoe making it permanent.

Head is sewn to top of body at neck opening.  Belly Plate is sewn to front of body.   Arms and legs are sewn to body positioned as desired.

Elbow and knee pads are placed on arms and legs as shown,  they can be tacked on with a few stitches if you want.

Eyes are made by cutting pieces of felt and sewing/gluing them to the bandana.  Mouth is made by cutting a piece of felt and sewing/gluing to the face as desired.  Facial expressions can vary from turtle to turtle to give them each their own personality.

The doll can be made to represent any of the Turtles,  by changing the color of the bandana, weapons and even facial expressions.


Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and the character Michaelangelo are copyright/trademarked of their original creators.


This pattern is an original crochet pattern and is © by Linda Potts (March 2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not add it to any collection on cd/dvd, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Umbreon Plushie

 

 

Well,  after many *many* requests,  I finally did an Umbreon.  I know this will bring about an onslaught of requests for the other 'Eevee-lutions'  and yes I'll get to them all...  eventually :D    It just depends on my yarn stash,  my time and well --- motivation.  LOL

As with all the patterns,  if you have any problems or if you notice anything wrong in the pattern  (I'm prone to typos LOL)  let me know and I'll get back to ya as soon as I can :D

-->

Umbreon

Materials:

WW Yarn black and yellow

G Hook

Fiberfill

Yellow, red, white and black felt scraps

Yarn Needle

BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 13: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (33)

Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (33)

Rnd 16: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 17-20: sc in each sc around (30)

This is a fairly good place to begin stuffing and shaping if you haven't already. Stuff fairly firmly while also shaping the body. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress.

Rnd 21: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (33)

Rnd 22: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 23-25: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 26: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 27: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 28: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 29: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 30: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping and weave the tail thread through the final round, pull gently to close up the small opening. Secure and weave in the tail yarn.

HEAD/NECK:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5-6: sc in each sc around (32)

Rnd 7: sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining 15 sc (33)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (33)

Rnd 9: sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc (35)

Rnd 10: sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 17 sc (36)

Rnd 11: sc in next 14 sc, * dec over next 2 sc *, repeat * * 3 more times, sc in remaining 14 sc (32)

Rnd 12: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 13: repeat rnd 12 (18)

Rnd 14: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc (20)

Rnd 15: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc (22)

Rnd 16: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc (24)

Stuff head firmly while shaping, pay particular attention to the 'nose' area. The head should be pinned to the upper portion of the body (roughly rnds 24-30) with nose area facing forward (the two 'points' of the neck shaping create the cape that create the gentle curve of the neckline. ) See photos to help with placement.

FRONT LEGS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

Rnd 5: repeat Rnd 4 (8)

Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without overstuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 6-8: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 9: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Row 11-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Do not fasten off at this point, continue with shoulder and either right or left leg instructions:

Begin Shoulder:

Right leg:

Row 13: sc in next 6 sc, leave remaining sc unworked, ch 1 and turn (6)

Row 14: sc in each sc across, ch 1 and turn  (6)

Row 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch 1 and turn (5)

Row 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)

F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that the 'inside' of the leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Complete rows 13 through 16 as described for right leg.

F/O.

BACK LEGS:

Rnd 1-5: Same as for front leg

Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (8)

Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without overstuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 8: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 10: Repeat rnd 8 (18)

11-12: sc in each sc around (18)

Do not fast off, continue with 'cape/shoulder' for either right or left leg:

Right Leg:

Row 1: Sc 9, leave remaining sc unworked, ch1 and turn (9)

Row 2: sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc,  ch1 and turn (8)

Row 3: sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn  (7)

Row 4: sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc,  ch1 and turn(6)

Row 5: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn (5)

Row 6: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc, (4)

F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that inside of leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Continue with shoulder as described for Right Leg.

EARS (make 2):

Begin with black:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around, change to yellow yarn in last sc of round, drop black to back of work but do not fasten off

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around, change back to black yarn in last sc of round 9, cut yellow leaving a tail of several inches, (carry tail along with work for the first several stitches of the next round to secure it) (12)

Begin stuffing at this point, ears should be stuffed fairly firmly. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 10-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finished out the shape of the ear.

Tail:

Begin with black:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 7-8, sc in each sc around, change to yellow yarn in last sc of round (15)

Begin stuffing at this point, tail should be stuffed fairly firmly. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around, change to black in last sc of round 11, f/o yellow yarn (15)

Rnd 12-14: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finalize the shaping and weave in tail.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend that you pin all parts together before you begin to sew them, to make certain all parts are as you like and in the position you prefer.

Head is sewn to body as shown, take your time and pin the head on first, making sure that the neck is adequately stuffed, and that the 'nape' of the neck is positioned so as to create the curve of the neck. (See the pictures to help you position the head)

For the yellow markings, cut 5 oval shapes from yellow felt, then cut out the center of each to make the 'rings'. Pin one of them to the head, between the ears and slightly to the front. The other four are each sewn onto the 'shoulders' of the leg pieces. You can do this before you sew the legs to the body, but I would recommend that you first pin the legs in the positions you want on the body, and then pin the markings to the legs as you prefer them, then unpin the legs and sew on the markings (or you can wait to add the markings after sewing on the legs.)

When sewing the legs on, you will probably want to add a little stuffing under each 'shoulder'. Not much stuffing is generally required here, just enough to give a very slight 'roundness' to the shoulder/hip area – and make a smooth transition from leg to 'body'.

Ears and tail are positioned and sewn on as shown.

Eyes are cut from red and black felt scraps, in shapes as shown. Catch lights are very small pieces of white felt.

Umbreon and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Wooper Plushie

Wooper is made by request.  Funny how none of my girls ever mentioned wooper at all ...  but as soon as he was done,  the girls were in love and he went to live on my 16 year old daughter's shelf with so many of the other pokemon I've made  LOL 

If you find any problems in the pattern, or just have a question feel free to post here or send me an email.  I'll get back to you on it ASAP.

Wooper

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue and violet

G Hook

Fiberfill

Small scraps of felt in black and white

Black embroidery thread.

NOTES:

Gauge isn’t necessary here,  as long as your hook and yarn choices, and your tension result in a tight and even stitch so that the stuffing won’t show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

HEAD/BODY:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)

Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)

Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)

Rnd 8:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)

Rnd 9-14:  sc in each sc around  (48)

Rnd 15:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (42)

Rnd 16:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)

Rnd 17:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)

This is a good point to begin stuffing,  stuff firmly while shaping.  Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 18:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)

Rnd 19:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Rnd 20-21:  sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 22:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)

Rnd 23:  sc in each sc around  (21)

Rnd 24:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)

Rnd 25   sc in each sc around  (24)

Rnd 26:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)

Rnd 27-30:  sc in each sc around  (30)

Rnd 31:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)

Rnd 32-33:  sc in each sc around  (36)

Rnd 34:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)

Rnd 35:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Rnd 36:  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)

F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping.  Weave tail through final round and tug to close the opening.  Secure and weave in ends.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 3-8:  sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 9:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)

F/O.  Stuff lightly  (feet need to be a little flat,  but still have some dimension).   Weave tail through final round, tug to close.  Secure and weave in ends.

TAIL:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (24)

Rnd 9:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Rnd 10-12:  sc in each sc around  (18)

Begin stuffing here,  stuff lightly  (tail is slightly flattened but stiff a little puffy).  Shape as you stuff.  Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 13:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)

Rnd 14-16:  sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 17:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)

Rnd 18-20:  sc in each sc around  (9)

Finish adding any stuffing needed to shape tail.  Flatten end and sc through all layers across to close.

F/O   weave in ends.

EARS/HORNS/ANTENNAE?:

(make 2)

Using the violet color:

Ch 14.  Slip stitch in second ch from hook and next 5 chs.  Ch 6.  Slip stitch in second chain from hook and remaining 4 chains.  Slip stitch to next chain of original ch14.  Slip stitch in next 2 chains.  Chain 4.  Slip stitch in second chain from hook and next 2 chains.  Slip stitch to next chain of original ch14.  Slip stitch to last chain of original ch14,  ch 1.

Working down the free loops on other side of the original ch14.  Slip stitch next 2 loops,  Chain 4.  Slip stitch in second chain from hook and next 2 chains.  Slip stitch to next loop of original ch14.  Slip stitch next 2 loops,  Ch 6.  Slip stitch in second chain from hook and remaining 4 chains.  Slip stitch to next loop of original ch14.  Slip stitch each remaining loop to end.  F/O

(These will stand up on the head of the Wooper  (as shown in the photos).  If you would rather make them sturdier,  then crochet 4 of them,  instead of 2.  Place two of them back to back and whip stitch them together. )

STRIPES:

Using violet:

Stripe 1:  Ch 5.  Sc in second chain from hook and remaining 3 chains.  F/O.

Stripe 2:  Ch 7.  Sc in second chain from hook and remaining 5 chains.  F/O.

Stripe 3:  Ch 9.  Sc in second chain from hook and remaining 7 chains.  F/O.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:  

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing,  to ensure that you’re happy with everything before making it permanent.

Feet are sewn at bottom of body as shown.  Tail is sewn to the bottom of the body at the back as shown (make sure the wooper is balanced on the two feet and the base of the tail)

Stripes are pinned to body and sewn as shown.   Ears/Horns are pinned to side of the head and sewn securely as shown.

Eyes are two small circles of black felt,  which two very small circles of white for ‘catch lights’

Mouth is embroidered as shown.

Wooper and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Cyndaquil Plushie

I finally decided to make a Cyndaquil.  It's my starter pokemon in HeartGold, and I really do love it :D

The flames on the back are made a little differently,  but it's not hard to do.  If you have any questions or find any problems with the pattern,  please let me know and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Cyndaquil

Materials

WW Yarn yellow , blue, red and gold (or a light orange)

G Hook

Black Embroidery thread

Fiberfill

Yarn Needle

NOTES:  

Gauge is not very important as long as your hook and yarn choice results in a consistent stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from coming through.

Numbers in  ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row. 

HEAD and BODY:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)

Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)

Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)

Rnd 7-12:  sc in each sc around  (36)

Rnd 13:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)

Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)

Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Begin stuffing here,  stuff firmly while shaping.  Continue to stuff as you progress down the body.

Rnd 16:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)

Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)

Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)

Rnd 19-21:  sc in each sc around  (36)

Rnd 22:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)

Rnd 23-30:  sc in each sc around  (42)

Rnd 31:  sc next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)

Rnd 32:  sc next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)

Rnd 33:  sc next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)

Rnd 34:  sc next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Rnd 35:  sc next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)

Rnd 36:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)

F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Weave end through final round and gently pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in ends.

SNOUT:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)

Rnd 3:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)

Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (10)

Rnd 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)

Rnd 6:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)

Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (14)

Rnd 8:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)

Rnd 9:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around  (18)

Rnd 11:  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (22)

F/O.  Stuff snout firmly to shape.  Pin to front of head with ‘longer’ end close to the neck portion of the body.  (see images for help with placement).  Sew securely to head.  Add any stuffing around the edges as you sew if you see the need for it to help the snout maintain its shape.

STRIPE:

(using blue)

Row 1:  Ch 3,  sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in next ch.  (2)

Row 2:  sc in both sc  (2)

Row 3:  2 sc in each of sc across  (4)

Row 4-6:  sc in each sc across  (4)

Row 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)

Row 8-10:  sc in each sc across  (6)

Row 11:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)

Row 12:  sc in each sc across  (8)

Row 13:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)

Row 14-24:  sc in each sc across  (10)

Row 25:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)

Row 26-34:  sc in each sc across  (12)

Row 35:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc  (14)

Row 36:  sc in each sc across  (14)

Row 37:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)

Row 38:  sc in each sc across  (16)

Row 39:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)

Row 40-50:  sc in each sc across  (18)

Row 51:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)

Row 52:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)

Row 53:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (12)

Row 54:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (10)

Row 55:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)

Row 56:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)

Row 57:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)

F/O.  Weave in ends.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)

Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)

Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)

Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (10)

Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)

Begin Shoulder:

sc in next 6 sc,  (leave remaining sc unworked)  turn  (6)

dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)

dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across  (4)

F/O.  Weave in ends.  Stuff arm firmly while shaping.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)

Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (21)

Rnd 9:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Rnd 10:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)

Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already.  Stuff moderately firmly  (you’ll need to be able to slightly flatten this part of the leg when sewing it to the body,  so don’t over-stuff)

Rnd 11:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)

F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish the shape.  Do not close the opening.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring,  join with slip stitch to first sc of round to form circle (6)

Rnd 2:  In same sc as joining,  ch1, sc, dc, sc;   slip stitch in next sc 

F/O.  Weave in ends and sew the foot to the opening of the leg.  Foot is sewn with round 1 over the opening,  leaving rnd 2 ‘free’ for the ‘toes’

FLAMES:

RED flame (make 2)

The flames are made with a base,  and randomly placed points.   First,  make your base which is more or less a ‘half circle’:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 hdc in 2^nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)

Row 2:  2 hdc in each hdc across, turn  (12)

Row 3:  hdc in first hdc,  2 hdc in next hdc across , ending with 2 hdc in last stitch,  turn  (18)

Row 4:  repeat row 3  (24) 

Do not fasten off.   Begin making the points.   Add your points randomly from the sizes below.  When you reach the end of your row,  add whatever point will fit nicely there.   Try to vary the sizes across the base,  so that the effect is more like an ‘explosion’ rather than a contrived or patterned look.

The points are made as such,  there are several different ‘sizes’ that I used.  I tried several patterns of points,  but they all looked too stiff and un-natural.   I found that randomly adding the points gave a far nicer ‘explosion’ look.   The different sizes of points I used are as follows:

1:  Ch 5.  Slip stitch in 2^nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch, dc in last ch.  Skip 2 stitches on the base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

2:  Ch 6.  Slip stitch in 2^nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch,  dc in next ch,  trbl in last ch.  Skip 3 stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

3:  Ch 8.  Slip stitch in 2^nd ch from hook,  sc in each of next 2 chs,  hdc in next ch,  dc in each of next 2 chs,  trbl in last ch.  Skip three stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

Experiment with different random patterns of the points until you are happy with how it looks. 

After making the last point,  F/O and weave in ends.  (the points will want to curl some, that’s normal and adds to the ‘effect’… but I did use an iron to ‘VERY GENTLY’ press the points with a little spray starch so that they wouldn’t curl too tightly.   If you don’t have an iron that’s ok,  you can just pull the points straight… they’ll curl back up,  but if you pull them out several times,  over time the points will relax and stay a good bit straighter.

GOLD flame  (make 2)

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)

Row 2:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (12)

Row 3:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc across , ending with 2 sc in last stitch,  turn  (18)

Here again,  use the same points described above to create a random pattern on each of the Gold bases in the same manner as for the red ones.    This is basically the same as the red flame,  just smaller.

Place the 2 red flames together with ‘wrong’ sides to the inside,  sew  them together along the ‘domed’ base leaving the points free and the bottom ‘edge’ open.  (just sew along the row 4 of the base) 

Take one of the gold flames,  and place in front of one side of the red flames (as shown in the pictures)  and sew along the base around the domed part  attaching it that side of the red flame.  Repeat on the other side with the other gold flame. 

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Carefully pin the blue stripe to the body beginning at the tip of the nose  pin along the snout, over the head  (pulling slightly at the neck to keep it taught as you pin)  then pin across the back to the bottom end of the body.   Take care to keep it straight and taught across the head/body as you pin.

When you’re pleased with the position of the stripe,  sew it carefully and securely removing the pins as you go,  and making sure that you keep it taught, straight and even down the body.

Place the arms as shown on the front of the body  (the ‘shoulder’  will allow you to place the arms facing forward instead of straight out.  Pin to the body and adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with how they look,  sew them securely to the body.

Determine which leg goes on each side  (making sure ‘toes’ face forward)  and gently flatten the side of the leg that will be against the body.  Pin to the body as shown in the pictures,  adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with the placement and position of the legs,  sew them securely to the body.

Eyes are embroidered as shown using a back stitch.  Nostrils are just a couple of whip stitches placed at the end of the nose as shown.

Place and pin the flames as shown down the center of the back of the body.  You may wish to add a very small amount of stuffing inside the base (dome) of the red flames to give it a little more ‘size’,  but that’s optional.   Be certain the flames are centered and straight.  Sew carefully and securely to the body,  removing the pins as you go,  and making sure it doesn’t get off–center as you sew.

Cyndaquil and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.