Rico-POM

Well,  finally!  I got Rico done.  I know it took forever,  but I live in central Texas and with all the horrible heat we were having I found it very difficult to get motivated to pick up hook and yarn.   But that said,  here he is.

As always,  if you find any problems in the pattern or just have a question,  post it here or email me (or you can always find me on my FaceBook Page )



MATERIALS:
WW yarn black white and orange
G Hook
Fiberfill
15mm Google Eyes
Tapestry Needle
Sewing Thread and Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important to this doll.  As long as your yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through,  it's perfectly fine.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row.

I recommend reading through the pattern and each set of instructions before beginning,  to familiarize yourself with the progression of that particular piece.

Pinning all the parts together before sewing is also highly preferable.  It allows you time to decide if you're truly happy with each part,  and make changes to individual parts before making them permanent.


BODY/HEAD

(using black)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7-30:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 31:  Sc in next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (44)
Rnd 32-33:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 34:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 35-36:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing at this point,  stuff firmly and shape while stuffing.  Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 37:  sc in next 8 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 38-39:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 40:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 41:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 42:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 43: sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 44:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 45:  dec in next 2 sc around  (8)
F/O.   Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the head.  Weave the tail through the last round of sc and tug to close up hole.   Secure and weave in ends

WHITE BELLY SECTION

Rnd 1-6:  same as for BODY/HEAD above  (48 sc at end of rnd 6)
Rnd 7-8:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Row 9:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Do not join, turn  (46)
Row 10: dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (44)

Repeat row 10 until 18 sc remain,  turn  (do not fasten off)

Begin shaping upper portion:

Row 1-2:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn  (16)
Row 4-5:  sc in each sc across  (16)
Row 6:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc.  Turn   (14)
Row 7-8:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 9:  sc in first sc,  hdc in next sc,   dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in each of next 3 sc,  hdc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O  and weave in ends.

BEAK:
(using orange)

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 4 sc,  in last sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  in next sc work  [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in next 8 sc,  in next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last 2 sc
Rnd 7:  sc in next 7 sc,  in next sc work  [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains]  sc in next 10 sc,  in next sc work [sc,  chain 4, slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in each of next 2 chains],  sc in last 3 sc.
F/O and weave in end.

WINGS:

Row 1:  chain 5,  sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain across,  turn (4)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across , turn  (4)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 5-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
Row 18:  sc in each sc across  (5)
Repeat rows 17 and 18 until 2 sc remain.  Dec over those 2 sc  (1)
F/O  weave in ends.  (slanted side of wing should be placed toward the 'back' of the doll when pinning to body)


FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):
(On this particular character,  the leg portion is purely optional.  Very often you don't see his 'legs' on the show - only the feet,  but once in a while you do.  I'm including the instructions for the leg if you choose to do that part.  I prefered to attach the feet directly to the body,  as I didn't find the legs added anything to the doll's overall look)

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.
Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.
Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.
(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing.  This gives you the chance to make sure you're happy with all the parts and their placement before making it permanent.

The 'white belly' fits snugly over the bottom and is smoothed and stretch up to the 'top' of the head as shown in the photo.

Beak is lightly stuffed and shaped - and is placed on the face area as shown.  Rico has a deep 'smile' usually,  and his beak is somewhat 'fatter' and appears slightly larger than the other penguins.

Feet are sewn underneath as shown.

Eyes are glued in place with a strong fabric/all purpose glue  (I recommend E-6000  as it is very strong,  washable,  and will work on nearly every surface)

Wings are placed on the side of the doll as shown.

The 'hair' is simply several pieces of black yarn cut to approx 5 inches long.  Use your crochet hook to 'latch-hook' the hair pieces in a line along the top of the head as shown.  After placing them,  trim them down to length desired.

To make the 'scar'.  Simply use some sewing thread and a needle and add the scar as desired on the left side of his face across the beak.   His scar isn't a heavy one-it's almost not noticeable in most of the shows unless his face is shown just right,  so go easy on it.  :D

Rico and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Despicable Minion

The Minion pattern is no.longer available on the site.

It's now the property of the movie studios NBC Universal.  NBCU owns the Craftsy website and they have it available as a kit here 

Linda

( Dated: Tuesday, June 13, 2017  )

Horsea Plushie

The newest addition to the pokemon plushies is Horsea. This little guy was surprisingly difficult to figure out the head/body size ratio,  and I'm not entirely certain I got it just right,  but it's close enough that my girls think he's awesome  LOL

I  know my pictures here aren't the best,  but the weather outside is frightful ... and I waited four days to get better weather to get some pics outside,  but it wasn't happening.  SO... we ended up taking pictures inside again.   I think though that they're at least good enough to help you when you're making the pattern.

As always,  if you find a problem in the pattern,  or just get confused,  you can post here,  email me,  or post on my FaceBook Fan Page.  I'll get an answer to ya as quick as I can :D

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue and cream
G Hook
Fiberfill
Small pieces of felt in light red, white and black
Sewing thread and needle to match felt
Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important,  as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a tight even stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

I prefer to join my rounds,  but if you're more comfortable using the 'continuous rounds' technique, that should work fine.

In this pattern,  I debated on the 'tail'.  I looked at dozens of official game images of Horsea online, and there are some with a more pronounced (longer) tail,  and some with very short tails,  and some with a medium tail - depending on which generation of the game or show it came from.  I opted for the medium length tail,  but if you prefer the longer tail  (more 'curl')  simply add some rounds of crochet between rows 4 and 16 of the body - or leave a couple of rows out for a shorter tail.   Also,  some of the images had the tail 'plump'  and others flat,  I opted for flat in this pattern simply to make it easier for beginners to manage the curl,  but if you want to,  add a small amount of stuffing to plump the tail out some.  Don't overstuff the tail though,  because you need it be able to curl up later.


BODY:

Rnd 1:  5 sc in magic ring  (5)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (15)
Rnd 4-16:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (18)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 22-28:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 29:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 30:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 31:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 32:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  While I left the tail portion unstuffed,  if you prefer to have a plumper tail,  stuff the tail section *very* lightly.  Stuff the body firmly to shape. Continue stuffing body as you progress.
Rnd 33:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 34:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 36-37:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 38:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 39:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O.  Leave neck open.  Weave in ends.

HEAD:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 8-15:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Begin stuffing at this point,  stuff fairly firmly to shape.  Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 19:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 20:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 21:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finalize the shape and weave end through last round of sc.  Pull to close tightly.  Secure and weave in ends.

BELLY PLATE:

Using cream:

Row 1:  Ch 6.  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining chs.  turn  (5)
Row 2:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each sc to last sc,  2 sc in last sc, turn  (7)
Row 3:  repeat row 2  (9)
Row 4:  repeat row 2  (11)
Row 5-12:  sc in each sc across  (11)
Row 13:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc,  turn  (10)
Row 14:  repeat row 13  (9)
Row 15:  repeat row 13  (8)
Row 16:  repeat row 13  (7)
Row 17:  repeat row 13  (6)
Row 18:  repeat row 13  (5)
Row 19:  sc in each sc across.  Do not turn  (5)

EDGE:  Sc in each row end down the side and across the bottom (foundation chain) and back up the other side,  crochet across the top to where you begain the edge and slip stitch to the first sc of the edging.  

Using a long length of blue yarn and yarn needle,  make the lines across the belly plate  (I used a straight stitch,  but back stitch would work too).  I made the lines between the second and third row,  then every fourth row,  ending where there were two rows left... however,  any way that they are evenly spaced is fine.

F/O and weave ends.


WHISKERS  (make  12)

Row 1:  Ch 11.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook.  Sc in next 2 chs,  hdc in next 2 chs,  dc in remaining chains. 

F/O.    Weave in ends.

Taking 2 of the 'whiskers'  place them together with 'right sides' facing out  and using a length of matching yarn,  whipstitch them together around the edges.   You should have a total of 6 whiskers.

SNOUT:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  Working in FRONT LOOPS ONLY,  sc in each sc around.   Ch 1 now working in the same round but in the free BACK LOOP,  sc in each sc around.  [This is to create a 'lip' at the end of the snout.] (12 sc in front, and 12 sc in back)
Rnd 4:  Working through both loops of the round that was worked through the back loops sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-6:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (15)
F/O Weave in ends.  Stuff snount firmly to shape.

FIN: (make 2)

Using cream:

Row 1:  Ch  11.  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch.,  hdc in next three chs,  dc in remaining 5 chs.  Ch 1, turn
Row 2:  Dc in first 5 dc,  hdc in next 3 hdc,  sc in last 2 sc.  Turn
Row 3:  sc in first 2 sc,  hdc in next 3 hdc,  dc in remaining 5 dc,  ch 1 turn
Row 4:  repeat row 2
Row 5:  repeat row 3
Row 6:  repeat row 2
Row 7:  repeat row 3
Row 8:  repeat row 2
F/O and weave in ends

Place the two pieces together matching the shape, and with a length of matching yarn,  whipstitch the two pieces together around the edges.


ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the pieces in place before sewing.   Head is sewn to the body.  Belly plate is sewn to the body front centered under the snout.  Whiskers are sewn to the face as shown,  they should be pointing *slightly* backwards.  (see pictures for help with placement).   Fin is sewn to the center of the back of the body as shown.

Cut two larger ovals from white felt,  2 smaller ovals in light red and two small ovals from black.   Attach as shown for the eyes.

I cut a circle of black and glued it in the 'lip' of the snout,  because it looks nice,  but that's purely optional.

Curl the tail towards the front and tack it in place with a few stitches.


HORSEA and POKEMON are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (January 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Raichu

I finally got another one done!  Yay me!  LOL

Raichu has been much requested and I finally got around to making him.  Parts of him are a little different than most pokemon  (namely the ears and tail)  and the instructions look much more difficult than it really is.  This is definitely one of the pokemon I would recommend for those with at least a little experience in making dolls, but with patience even a beginner could manage it :)

As always, if you find anything in the pattern that's confusing or if you find a typo,  let me know and I'll fix it asap. 

RAICHU

MATERIALS

WW yarn in  yellow-orange, light yellow or cream, dark brown
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Small scraps of black and white felt
sewing threads to match yarn, and sewing needle

NOTES:

The actual size of your hook doesn't really matter,  as long as your hook and yarn choices result in tight even stitches.  Crocheting too loosely,  or using too large of a hook for the yarn weight,  will result in the stuffing showing through.   In general,  G hook and WW yarn makes for a nice even and tight stitch for making dolls. 

The numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row,  indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

When sewing the parts together,  I recommend using a good sewing thread, doubled, on a strong sewing needle.  The reason for this is to prevent adding unwanted bulk to the joints or ridges around sewn on parts.  The other advantage is that you can use thread that matches the  yarn and your 'seams' are much less noticeable and generally smoother.    When working with two different colored pieces,  use thread to match the 'top' piece  or the lighter of the two pieces - whichever seems to work best for you.  (a little test never hurts before committing to sewing on a piece)



HEAD/BODY

(beginning at top of head,  with yellow-orange)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 8-10:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 20 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in last 20 sc  (44)
Rnd 12-13:  sc in each sc around  (44)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 20 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last 20 sc  (42)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 17-18:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
(ending of head/beginning of body --- now is a good time to begin stuffing if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately firmly, remembering to 'shape' the nose/muzzle feature that was created in rounds 11-14.  Continue to stuff and shape as you progress.)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 21-22:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 23:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (45)
Rnd 24-25:  sc in each sc around  (45)
Rnd 26:  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (50)
Rnd 27-40:  sc in each sc around  (50)
Rnd 41:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 42:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 43:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 44:  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
F/O, leaving tail.  Finish adding any stuffing needed to finalize the shape. Weave the tail through the final round and pull tight to close.  Secure well and weave in end.

ARMS (make 2)

Beginning with dark brown:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in Magic Ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  in last sc,  work 2 sc,  changing to orange-yellow in last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 10:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 11:  sc next 7 sc,  ch 1 turn  (leave remaining stitches unworked)  (7)
Rnd 12:  sc 5, dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Rnd 13:  sc 4,  dec over last 2 sc  (5)
F/O.  Stuff arm moderately firm,  enough to shape well without overstuffing.  Do not close opening.

LEGS: (make 2)

(NOTE:  when instructed to dec over 3 sc,  it's the same as a regular dec, only over three stitches at once instead of 2)

Using orange-yellow

Rnd 1:  7 sc in Magic Ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (22)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (24)
Rnd 6-8:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (22)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc (repeat dec once more),  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat dec once more)  (18)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 3 sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 3 sc  (14)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (12)
Rnd 13-14:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O.  Using the back end of a hook,  a chopstick or eraser end of a pencil,  stuff the leg moderately firm.  Don't over stuff, as you will need a little bit of 'shifting' room when sewing the leg to the side of the body.

FEET: (make 2)

Beginning with dark brown:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in Magic Ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3-4:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around, change to orange-yellow in last stitch of round  (12)
Rnd 6-13:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Stuff feet at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately firm,  but do not overstuff.
Rnd 14:  dec in next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing need to finish the shaping.  Weave tail of yarn through final round and pull to close. Secure end and weave in .  Sew foot onto a leg,  taking extra care to position the foot so that it will face the proper direction when sewn onto the body.  (see the pictures to help with positioning)

BELLY SPOT

Using light yellow

Rnd 1:  8 sc in Magic Ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (48)
F/O.  Sew belly spot to front of body as shown,  stretching it sightly to create an oval shape.  Be careful in keeping the oval shape even, and properly centered below the 'nose/muzzle' of the head. Pinning the piece first to the body before sewing will help keep things straight for you.

EARS:  (make 4)

(Read through the ear assembly carefully before beginning - the ears must be made with a left ear and right ear,  or they won't work.  Patience is key with the trim around the ears, it looks alot worse in writing than it is in practice.)

Using orange-yellow

Row 1:  Ch 11,  sc in second ch from hook and each remaining chain, turn  (10)
Row 2:  Dec over first 2 sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, turn - leave remaining sc unworked (7)
Row 3:  2 sc in first sc,  sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc, turn (7)
Row 4:  Dec over first 2 sc,  sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc, turn   (7)
Row 5:  repeat row 3 (7)
F/O, weave in end

LEFT EAR ASSEMBLY:
.
Placing 2 of the ear pieces together  (matching shapes)  and holding the pieces so that the 'v' is facing towards your RIGHT,  attach the orange yellow yarn to the upper right corner.  Sc through all layers across the top and around the 'edge' evenly,  then work across the 'bottom' of the ear.  When you reach the bottom point of the 'v' make the 'curl' by ch 7, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and each chain back up to the ear.  Continue sc around the v of the ear and sc in same sc as joining.  F/O

Attach the dark brown to same upper right corner  (make sure the 'curl' is at the bottom right).  Ch1 after joining and 2 sc in same sc as join.  Sc across top and around smaller side and three sc across the bottom,  turn and slip stitch evenly all the way back around to the first sc of the dark brown.  F/O weave in all ends.

RIGHT EAR ASSEMBLY:

Placing 2 of the ear pieces together  (matching shapes),  and holding the pieces so that the 'v' is facing towards your LEFT,  attach the orange-yellow to the bottom right corner   sc evenly up the side, across the top and down through the 'v' to the bottom of the v.  Ch 7,  slip stitch in the 2nd ch from the hook and across to the ear and continue to sc around, slip stitch in first sc.  F/O

Attach the dark brown to the third sc to the left of where you joined the orange-yellow before,  working up the side and around the top,  sc evenly to the top of the v,  2 sc in corner stitch at top of v,  turn and slip stitch evenly across to first sc of dark brown.  F/O


TAIL:

Using dark brown

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2-48:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 49:  sc 4, ch1 turn (leave remaining scs unworked)  (4)
Rnd 50:  sc 2, dec over last 2 sc  (3)
F/O.  Stuffing tail is not necessary,  but if you want to make it somewhat poseable,  you can moderately stuff it as you progress. I tried both ways, and found that leaving it unstuffed was preferable.

LIGHTNING BOLT:  (make 2)

Using light  yellow:

Row 1:  Ch 4,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (3)
Row 2-8:  sc in each sc across  (3)
Row 9:  sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc (4)
Row 10:  sc in each sc across (4)
Row 11-12:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (5)
Row 13-14:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (6)
Row 15-16:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (7)
Row 17-18:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (8)
Row 19-20:  repeat rows 9 and 10  (9)
Row 21:  repeat row 9 (10)
Row 22:  sc in each sc across to end  (10)
Row 23:  ch 6,  sc in 2nd sc from hook and remaining 4 chs,  sc in next five sc of previous row  (10)
Row 24:  sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (9)
Row 25:  sc in each sc across (9)
Row 26-27:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (8)
Row 28-29:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (7)
Row 30-31:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (6)
Row 32-33:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (5)
Row 34-35:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (4)
Row 36-37:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (3)
Row 38-39:  repeat rows 24 and 25  (2)
Row 40:  dec over 2 sc  (1)
Row 41:  sc in sc.
F/O.  Weave in end on first of the two bolt pieces. Leave a fairly long tail on the second of the two bolt pieces.  Place the two pieces together,  matching the shape.  Using a yarn needle and the long tail left on the second piece,  whip stitch the two pieces together carefully.  When you reach the 'bottom' of the bolt,  (the beginning row)  insert the closed end of the tail  (smaller end) and securely sew through all layers to attach the tail to the bolt.  Continue whipstitching up the other side of the bolt to the top.  Secure and weave in ends.

STRIPES: (make 2)

Using dark brown

Ch 16.  Slip stitch in second ch from hook.  sc in next 2 ch,  hdc in next 2 ch,  dc in next 5 ch,  hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, slip stitch in last ch. 
F/O.

CHEEK PATCHES:

Using light  yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in Magic Ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
F/O weave in ends


FINAL ASSEMBLY:   I recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing to ensure that you have everything like you want it.  Make any adjustments as needed before sewing.    Sew all the pieces to the body.  Make sure that the ears, arms and legs are positioned correctly before sewing.

Take care when sewing to center ears and cheek patches to the 'nose' at the front of the head.  Arms and legs are positioned and sewn as shown in the pictures.   Sew tail to bottom of body at the middle.  Stripes are placed as shown and sewn in place.

Using a bit of sewing thread doubled,  or embroidery floss  (or dark yarn)  make a few small whipstitches at the top of the 'nose'  as shown.  Sew or glue on small circles from black felt for eyes,  and two very tiny circles of white for catchlights.  Embroider mouth shape as shown in same thread or yarn used for nose.


RAICHU and POKEMON are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (December 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.