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Saturday, May 22, 2010

Cyndaquil Plushie


I finally decided to make a Cyndaquil.  It's my starter pokemon in HeartGold, and I really do love it :D

The flames on the back are made a little differently,  but it's not hard to do.  If you have any questions or find any problems with the pattern,  please let me know and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.


Cyndaquil

Materials

WW Yarn yellow , blue, red and gold (or a light orange)
G Hook
Black Embroidery thread
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle

NOTES:  

Gauge is not very important as long as your hook and yarn choice results in a consistent stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from coming through.

Numbers in  ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row. 


HEAD and BODY:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 7-12:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Begin stuffing here,  stuff firmly while shaping.  Continue to stuff as you progress down the body.

Rnd 16:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 19-21:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 22:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 23-30:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 31:  sc next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 32:  sc next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 33:  sc next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 34:  sc next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 35:  sc next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 36:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Weave end through final round and gently pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in ends.


SNOUT:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 6:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 8:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 9:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 11:  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (22)
F/O.  Stuff snout firmly to shape.  Pin to front of head with ‘longer’ end close to the neck portion of the body.  (see images for help with placement).  Sew securely to head.  Add any stuffing around the edges as you sew if you see the need for it to help the snout maintain its shape.


STRIPE:
(using blue)

Row 1:  Ch 3,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch.  (2)
Row 2:  sc in both sc  (2)
Row 3:  2 sc in each of sc across  (4)
Row 4-6:  sc in each sc across  (4)
Row 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 8-10:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 11:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Row 12:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 13:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Row 14-24:  sc in each sc across  (10)
Row 25:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Row 26-34:  sc in each sc across  (12)
Row 35:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc  (14)
Row 36:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 37:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Row 38:  sc in each sc across  (16)
Row 39:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Row 40-50:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 51:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)
Row 52:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)
Row 53:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (12)
Row 54:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (10)
Row 55:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Row 56:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Row 57:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
F/O.  Weave in ends.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Begin Shoulder:
sc in next 6 sc,  (leave remaining sc unworked)  turn  (6)
dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)
dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across  (4)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Stuff arm firmly while shaping.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 10:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already.  Stuff moderately firmly  (you’ll need to be able to slightly flatten this part of the leg when sewing it to the body,  so don’t over-stuff)
Rnd 11:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish the shape.  Do not close the opening.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring,  join with slip stitch to first sc of round to form circle (6)
Rnd 2:  In same sc as joining,  ch1, sc, dc, sc;   slip stitch in next sc 
F/O.  Weave in ends and sew the foot to the opening of the leg.  Foot is sewn with round 1 over the opening,  leaving rnd 2 ‘free’ for the ‘toes’

FLAMES:

RED flame (make 2)

The flames are made with a base,  and randomly placed points.   First,  make your base which is more or less a ‘half circle’:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)
Row 2:  2 hdc in each hdc across, turn  (12)
Row 3:  hdc in first hdc,  2 hdc in next hdc across , ending with 2 hdc in last stitch,  turn  (18)
Row 4:  repeat row 3  (24) 
Do not fasten off.   Begin making the points.   Add your points randomly from the sizes below.  When you reach the end of your row,  add whatever point will fit nicely there.   Try to vary the sizes across the base,  so that the effect is more like an ‘explosion’ rather than a contrived or patterned look.

The points are made as such,  there are several different ‘sizes’ that I used.  I tried several patterns of points,  but they all looked too stiff and un-natural.   I found that randomly adding the points gave a far nicer ‘explosion’ look.   The different sizes of points I used are as follows:

1:  Ch 5.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch, dc in last ch.  Skip 2 stitches on the base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

2:  Ch 6.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch,  dc in next ch,  trbl in last ch.  Skip 3 stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

3:  Ch 8.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in each of next 2 chs,  hdc in next ch,  dc in each of next 2 chs,  trbl in last ch.  Skip three stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

Experiment with different random patterns of the points until you are happy with how it looks. 

After making the last point,  F/O and weave in ends.  (the points will want to curl some, that’s normal and adds to the ‘effect’… but I did use an iron to ‘VERY GENTLY’ press the points with a little spray starch so that they wouldn’t curl too tightly.   If you don’t have an iron that’s ok,  you can just pull the points straight… they’ll curl back up,  but if you pull them out several times,  over time the points will relax and stay a good bit straighter.

GOLD flame  (make 2)

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)
Row 2:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (12)
Row 3:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc across , ending with 2 sc in last stitch,  turn  (18)

Here again,  use the same points described above to create a random pattern on each of the Gold bases in the same manner as for the red ones.    This is basically the same as the red flame,  just smaller.

Place the 2 red flames together with ‘wrong’ sides to the inside,  sew  them together along the ‘domed’ base leaving the points free and the bottom ‘edge’ open.  (just sew along the row 4 of the base) 

Take one of the gold flames,  and place in front of one side of the red flames (as shown in the pictures)  and sew along the base around the domed part  attaching it that side of the red flame.  Repeat on the other side with the other gold flame. 
FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Carefully pin the blue stripe to the body beginning at the tip of the nose  pin along the snout, over the head  (pulling slightly at the neck to keep it taught as you pin)  then pin across the back to the bottom end of the body.   Take care to keep it straight and taught across the head/body as you pin.

When you’re pleased with the position of the stripe,  sew it carefully and securely removing the pins as you go,  and making sure that you keep it taught, straight and even down the body.

Place the arms as shown on the front of the body  (the ‘shoulder’  will allow you to place the arms facing forward instead of straight out.  Pin to the body and adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with how they look,  sew them securely to the body.

Determine which leg goes on each side  (making sure ‘toes’ face forward)  and gently flatten the side of the leg that will be against the body.  Pin to the body as shown in the pictures,  adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with the placement and position of the legs,  sew them securely to the body.

Eyes are embroidered as shown using a back stitch.  Nostrils are just a couple of whip stitches placed at the end of the nose as shown.

Place and pin the flames as shown down the center of the back of the body.  You may wish to add a very small amount of stuffing inside the base (dome) of the red flames to give it a little more ‘size’,  but that’s optional.   Be certain the flames are centered and straight.  Sew carefully and securely to the body,  removing the pins as you go,  and making sure it doesn’t get off–center as you sew.

Cyndaquil and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 





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