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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Cyndaquil Plushie


I finally decided to make a Cyndaquil.  It's my starter pokemon in HeartGold, and I really do love it :D

The flames on the back are made a little differently,  but it's not hard to do.  If you have any questions or find any problems with the pattern,  please let me know and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.


Cyndaquil

Materials

WW Yarn yellow , blue, red and gold (or a light orange)
G Hook
Black Embroidery thread
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle

NOTES:  

Gauge is not very important as long as your hook and yarn choice results in a consistent stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from coming through.

Numbers in  ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row. 


HEAD and BODY:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 7-12:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Begin stuffing here,  stuff firmly while shaping.  Continue to stuff as you progress down the body.

Rnd 16:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 19-21:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 22:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 23-30:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 31:  sc next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 32:  sc next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 33:  sc next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 34:  sc next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 35:  sc next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 36:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Weave end through final round and gently pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in ends.


SNOUT:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 6:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 8:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 9:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 11:  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (22)
F/O.  Stuff snout firmly to shape.  Pin to front of head with ‘longer’ end close to the neck portion of the body.  (see images for help with placement).  Sew securely to head.  Add any stuffing around the edges as you sew if you see the need for it to help the snout maintain its shape.


STRIPE:
(using blue)

Row 1:  Ch 3,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch.  (2)
Row 2:  sc in both sc  (2)
Row 3:  2 sc in each of sc across  (4)
Row 4-6:  sc in each sc across  (4)
Row 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 8-10:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 11:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Row 12:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 13:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Row 14-24:  sc in each sc across  (10)
Row 25:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Row 26-34:  sc in each sc across  (12)
Row 35:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc  (14)
Row 36:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 37:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Row 38:  sc in each sc across  (16)
Row 39:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Row 40-50:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 51:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)
Row 52:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)
Row 53:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (12)
Row 54:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (10)
Row 55:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Row 56:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Row 57:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
F/O.  Weave in ends.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Begin Shoulder:
sc in next 6 sc,  (leave remaining sc unworked)  turn  (6)
dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)
dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across  (4)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Stuff arm firmly while shaping.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 10:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already.  Stuff moderately firmly  (you’ll need to be able to slightly flatten this part of the leg when sewing it to the body,  so don’t over-stuff)
Rnd 11:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish the shape.  Do not close the opening.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring,  join with slip stitch to first sc of round to form circle (6)
Rnd 2:  In same sc as joining,  ch1, sc, dc, sc;   slip stitch in next sc 
F/O.  Weave in ends and sew the foot to the opening of the leg.  Foot is sewn with round 1 over the opening,  leaving rnd 2 ‘free’ for the ‘toes’

FLAMES:

RED flame (make 2)

The flames are made with a base,  and randomly placed points.   First,  make your base which is more or less a ‘half circle’:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)
Row 2:  2 hdc in each hdc across, turn  (12)
Row 3:  hdc in first hdc,  2 hdc in next hdc across , ending with 2 hdc in last stitch,  turn  (18)
Row 4:  repeat row 3  (24) 
Do not fasten off.   Begin making the points.   Add your points randomly from the sizes below.  When you reach the end of your row,  add whatever point will fit nicely there.   Try to vary the sizes across the base,  so that the effect is more like an ‘explosion’ rather than a contrived or patterned look.

The points are made as such,  there are several different ‘sizes’ that I used.  I tried several patterns of points,  but they all looked too stiff and un-natural.   I found that randomly adding the points gave a far nicer ‘explosion’ look.   The different sizes of points I used are as follows:

1:  Ch 5.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch, dc in last ch.  Skip 2 stitches on the base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

2:  Ch 6.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch,  dc in next ch,  trbl in last ch.  Skip 3 stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

3:  Ch 8.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in each of next 2 chs,  hdc in next ch,  dc in each of next 2 chs,  trbl in last ch.  Skip three stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

Experiment with different random patterns of the points until you are happy with how it looks. 

After making the last point,  F/O and weave in ends.  (the points will want to curl some, that’s normal and adds to the ‘effect’… but I did use an iron to ‘VERY GENTLY’ press the points with a little spray starch so that they wouldn’t curl too tightly.   If you don’t have an iron that’s ok,  you can just pull the points straight… they’ll curl back up,  but if you pull them out several times,  over time the points will relax and stay a good bit straighter.

GOLD flame  (make 2)

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)
Row 2:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (12)
Row 3:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc across , ending with 2 sc in last stitch,  turn  (18)

Here again,  use the same points described above to create a random pattern on each of the Gold bases in the same manner as for the red ones.    This is basically the same as the red flame,  just smaller.

Place the 2 red flames together with ‘wrong’ sides to the inside,  sew  them together along the ‘domed’ base leaving the points free and the bottom ‘edge’ open.  (just sew along the row 4 of the base) 

Take one of the gold flames,  and place in front of one side of the red flames (as shown in the pictures)  and sew along the base around the domed part  attaching it that side of the red flame.  Repeat on the other side with the other gold flame. 
FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Carefully pin the blue stripe to the body beginning at the tip of the nose  pin along the snout, over the head  (pulling slightly at the neck to keep it taught as you pin)  then pin across the back to the bottom end of the body.   Take care to keep it straight and taught across the head/body as you pin.

When you’re pleased with the position of the stripe,  sew it carefully and securely removing the pins as you go,  and making sure that you keep it taught, straight and even down the body.

Place the arms as shown on the front of the body  (the ‘shoulder’  will allow you to place the arms facing forward instead of straight out.  Pin to the body and adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with how they look,  sew them securely to the body.

Determine which leg goes on each side  (making sure ‘toes’ face forward)  and gently flatten the side of the leg that will be against the body.  Pin to the body as shown in the pictures,  adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with the placement and position of the legs,  sew them securely to the body.

Eyes are embroidered as shown using a back stitch.  Nostrils are just a couple of whip stitches placed at the end of the nose as shown.

Place and pin the flames as shown down the center of the back of the body.  You may wish to add a very small amount of stuffing inside the base (dome) of the red flames to give it a little more ‘size’,  but that’s optional.   Be certain the flames are centered and straight.  Sew carefully and securely to the body,  removing the pins as you go,  and making sure it doesn’t get off–center as you sew.

Cyndaquil and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 





69 Comments:

yulianknits said...

It's so adorable! =]

Marie-Andrée said...

Wonderfull! I love it! great!

Anonymous said...

i love it its the best ive ever seen why dont u make a tododile

Anonymous said...

its great best ive ever seen why dont u make a tododile

Anonymous said...

cool

Kurio said...

wow! So cute! You are amazing! I love your plushies ;)

Whitney said...

He's fantastic! Thank you so much for the pattern!

Anonymous said...

youve amazed me once again! love your cyndaquil. how do you manage to make these patterns so quickly? lol great pattern, cant wait to try it out :]

Aliya said...

Oh! I just love your plushies. :) I'm trying to make all of them! I made my first one (mario) and I'm very pleased with the way he turned out! A little girl is really going to enjoy him. Quite a few people have asked me if there's a charmander pattern... If you were looking for a new pokemon to do, I might suggest him. :) I think I'm going to make a sonic now! My boyfriend loves the pattern!!

PAQUI said...

Realmente original y fantastico, felicidades, y gracias por el pap.Saludos desde Spain

Anonymous said...

You are best: it compliments. I them stò making all, would want chiederti to realize a Charmender and prince Peach. thanks

Anonymous said...

wow once again uve amazed us all how do u do it without a pattern

Angie said...

Love it, it's perfect!

Marie said...

I really love it! Started with cyndaquil myself : ) Your patterns are really amazing. I always visit you page for inspiration!

sy said...

amazing! cyndaquil is so adorable :D

crealientje said...

what a beautiful things have you make the last time!!!
super!

Sammy said...

awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww, he is soooooo cute, i love your patterns, my sister really wants me to make her one because it is soooo cute.

flippyninjas said...

Adorable!

I just started making one, and I was wondering - how far down does the stripe go? I'm already at row 53, and the stripe is about one inch from the circle at the bottom. It might just be because the yarn I used for the stripe is just a teeny bit thicker than the yarn I used for the body, but I just wanted to check.

WolfDreamer said...

Yes, if you use a thicker yarn for one part of a doll, that part will be bigger. You will probably want to pin the piece as you have it to the doll and see how it's fitting, chances are, you're going to need to go back to the beginning and make adjustments on it. It's probably going to be too *wide* as well, so you'll have to make some adjustments in how many stitches across.

It's generally always best to use the same exact type of yarn for all the parts, (unless otherwise indicated in a pattern). That's so that all the parts and pieces remain consistent. :D

Anonymous said...

i love it
have you ever thought of making a ponyta or tododile

heimat said...

I'm having the same problem as flippyninja ... both yarns are equal thickness.
Measuring from the snout (11rnds) and head/body (36rnds) it totals 47rnds, whereas the stripe is 67rnds.

I'm left with enough rnds to wrap the stripe over cyndaquils tummy?

where did i go wrong ? thanks for your help.

WolfDreamer said...

I've gone back and counted and recounted, and the count I have is the same as it's written. My thinking is that my tension is just tighter than other peoples, and this is going to make a much greater difference in the 'rows' than in rounds. You will probably then need to 'adjust' the stripe as needed to fit on your doll (based on your individual tension and crochet style) Sometimes it just requires making a few little changes to fit the style that each person has :D

heimat said...

Thanks for your prompt reply.

I'll have another go at the stripe today, thanks for checking.

Anonymous said...

Daily crochet pattern for July 8th:

http://www.dailycrocheter.com/day.php

Anonymous said...

Hi, I'm fairly new to crochet but I'm thinking of trying your pattern and was wondering roughly how much of each colour yarn I'd need? Thanks :)

WolfDreamer said...

In general, ALL of my dolls will use less than one skein of yarn. Most often it's only few ounces.

I generally am using leftover yarn from other projects for the pokemon dolls, so I don't really know exactly how much yarn I use per doll, but it's never over one skein.

On average, the dolls are all between 8-11 inches tall (unless otherwise noted)

:D

Anonymous said...

Okay, thank you!!! :)

Adriana said...

Wow. I am really impressed. I'm a huge pokemon fan and these are spectacular! Where did you learn how to crochet? I don't know how, but I am extremely interested in learning how so I can do these. :]

WolfDreamer said...

Well, I've been crocheting for more than 35 years :D There are some great places online to learn how to crochet, you can type 'learn to crochet' in your search bar and find hundreds of places to check out. There are *many* video lessons on youtube as well and those are often very helpful at teaching. :D

I would recommend learning how to read crochet patterns, you'll find that helpful while mastering different techniques :D

Adriana said...

You should post videos on how to crochet these dolls you make. :P

You should try and do a Charizard. :]

Anonymous said...

Oh my gosh it's so cute! X3

...Can you please do a Vulpix? It is my absolute FAVORITE POKEMON!!! I'm gonna crochet Chikorita (my starter in Heartgold), but a Vulpix would be awesome, I could crochet my PMD sky team! XD

Candice said...

I love all your patterns! I've crocheted your pokeballs, Pikachu, and most recently your Charmander.

What shade of blue did you use for the stripe?

mimsi said...

I absolutely LOVE your patterns. My husband and his friend are pokemon crazy. So I was planning on starting with Cyndaquil but I am having a lot of trouble. I keep messing up his neck/body. I have tried 3 times and they all still really bad. Any tips on getting to look better? I followed the pattern as best as I could.

WolfDreamer said...

hmm, hard to say without more specific information about the problem. But in general, if you watch your stitch count (using the numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row, it is your best bet. Remember though, yarn choice, hook choice and individual tension can create some differences, so you might need to make small adjustments. :D

Anonymous said...

Its so great!! <3 you should make a quilava next, thats my absolute favorite :D You make such great patterns.

Anonymous said...

I think I found a slight typo in the pattern for the tail...For every row at the beginning, you tell how many hdc to make, and then turn. ie, "2 hdc in each hdc across, turn". Shouldn't it be ch2 and turn?

Anonymous said...

I'm going to see if I can adapt this pattern to make a Larvitar!

Anonymous said...

I used this pattern, and it came out adorable!
http://kikukikukiku.deviantart.com/art/Cyndaquil-c-200342750

Thanks so much for posting it!

Another thing, I was wondering whether your would consider making a vulpix pattern? I've been looking for one and can't find one anywhere!

cherry said...

I'm halfway through and am very excited about how it's going to turn out.

You're very generous to be posting these for free and providing so much help to your readers. Thank you so much.

Christina said...

Great crochet creations! I have a question on Cyndaquil. So far every thing is coming along great except for I just got stuck on the red flames. At the end of row 3 it says I should have 18 and then to repeat row 4 and at the end I should have 24 but that math doesn't work out? Shouldn't it be 27 or am I not understanding row 4?

Thanks and thanks again for these awesome patterns!

-Christina

WolfDreamer said...

Yes it should say 27. I don't know how that typo stayed there for so long without anyone mentioning it... LOL. (That's the kind of mistake I make when I'm typing late into the night when probably should be sleeping :) )

I'll go and fix that :D

Jill said...

I'm having trouble with the flames. Instead of coming out like yours, for me the points on the flames are just little bumps. Can you help? Can you also make a snivy plush?

WolfDreamer said...

The best way to keep the points 'sharp' or defined, is by tightening the last chain before turning to make your first stitch. That makes the turning firmer and better defined :D

Jill said...

Thanks. And CAN YOU MAKE A SNIVY PLUSH?

Jill said...

This time I'm posting for my sister. She"s having trouble with the stripe. When she does it it comes out to narrow. Oh, you've been ignoring me about the snivy. So can you. You haven't answered at all. It's a simple yes or no question.

WolfDreamer said...

It's common with this type of crochet, for certain items to come out smaller or larger than someone else's. This is because different yarns, hooks and each crocheter's individual tension can make a considerable difference in the overall results. It's possible a small adjustment will be needed by adding a stitch or two to the stripe where it seems to be too narrow.

As to the snivy. I have posted dozens and dozens of times... I make these patterns in my free time. I generally use yarns leftover from work projects or yarn that I happen to have. I can tell you that snivy is on my list...the list is long. I'm currently working on several free patterns that will be coming up over the next few weeks (the first one in a few days or so)...and then after that, it will greatly depend once again on what I have here.

Jill said...

how long do you think it would take to make a snivy?

WolfDreamer said...

I have no idea when I will make a snivy. It very much depends on what materials I have available, and the time I have. :D

Lozza said...

I'd just like to say a massive thank you for all your wonderful patterns - they've been true inspiration for an amateur crocheter like me! I'm halfway throught the Cydnaquil pattern which I've found really fun to make. I think I've got the crochet basics down now, the only problem I seem to have is making things up properly. I don't really know any proper sewing techniques so things look messy with stuffing sticking out etc! Do have any hints or tips for how I could improve? Or perhaps a website that might help? Thanks again, it's really appreciated!

Anonymous said...

Thank you so much for posting these patterns! I was wondering if you could make a bulbasaur, lapras, mew, or dragonite. You don't have to make them, though. Thank you so much!

MarisaLynn said...

Thank you for posting this! :D I actually crocheted it back in May, and I just haven't had the chance to add my thanks and post a picture of how mine came out. XD So...thanks again! It was fun to make! And the friend I made it for absolutely loved it! Here's mine:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/marisalynn25/5980531248/in/photostream/

Anonymous said...

can you make a vulpix or ninetales?

Kiya said...

I really like your Pokémon and refound my enthusiasm for them.
I tried Mew and Feurigel (it's the German name of Cyndaquil) by my own and they are so cute.

Thanks for your great pattern :)

Keri said...

Love all you patterns! I think that you are so generous with posting your patterns :) I just finished your Snolax plushie and he turned out amazing. My little brother loved him!

I have a quick question for you. With Cyndaquil, do you remember what colour the Red Heart (if that was the brand that you used)yarn was called?

Thanks so much for all your hard work and patterns! Love them all!

Carrie said...

Thank you so much for your patterns! I just finished Cyndaquil for my son's friend as a Christmas gift. When my son took a look at the finished product, he said, "Wow! It looks just like the real thing!" I so appreciate the work you've put into these patterns, and so does my son!

Anonymous said...

I have never made something like this before and I can't understand what the steps are saying to do. Could you help? I really love Cydaquil and I want to get started on this soon.

Thank you!

Anonymous said...

thank you for this pattern! i had never made an amigurimi plushie before, so it was a bit of a learning experience, but my cyndaquil is SO adorable!! thanks so much! :)

Unknown said...

Used this pattern to make one for my son. He adores it! Thank you for making all these pokemon patterns. I'm trying to piece together shapes to make a convincing Gyarados next. Not many out there brave enough to write a pattern for that one ;)

DIAN said...

Thank you for your wonderful patterns. I just started on making Cyndaquil. All is going well, but now I'm kinda stuck at the arms. At the shoulder part, the pattern says:

(after turning): "dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)"

This kind of confuses me and I'm not sure what to do after the decrease. How many single chrochets do I have to make after that?

Thanks in advance!

Eyeheart Pokemanz said...

I LOVE your things!
I have been following your pokemon creations for a long time now and you've been my inspiration crochet-wise. I started following your patterns and got inspired to do my own and even create my own blog :)
Thanks for being awesome :D <3

Eyeheart Pokemanz said...

I LOVE your things!
I have been following your pokemon creations for a long time now and you've been my inspiration crochet-wise. I started following your patterns and got inspired to do my own and even create my own blog :)
Thanks for being awesome :D <3

Anonymous said...

Hi, I love your crochet pokemon so much that I just HAD to start making them :D! I already made pikachu (I kinda made up my own pattern for him because I didn't find your website yet before I made him), and now im making cyndaquil cause it's my favorite pokemon lol and i'm following your pattern for it and it's turning out great! thank u so much and keep up the good work :D

Esper5551 said...

Could you make an Espeon?

Sunshine Rose said...

Do you slip stitch and chain at the end of every round or just crochet continuous rounds.

Honey covered cupcake said...

Lol love ud pokemon hoping when I am good as you aljost I will maks some of my own for friend niko with pokeball to keep pokemon inside love ur work keep it up could you make a swablu easy small pokemon for a pro like you

Alia Berg said...

I love you patterns so much! it's really helping me out with practice and free time and I just wanted to thank you for all the patterns you make, I am a huge Pokemon fan (first and second gen are the best) and it's cool that I can make my favorite Pokemon and take a break from trying to hatch a shiny Eevee!

Britt Vermeulen said...

A great pattern this is! But I have one question, what does trbl mean?

tomboy480 said...

this is very impressive

Julia Franklin said...

First of all, Thank you for the time you take to post these patterns for us to try. I loved the Jolteon and made it with great ease. However, I am trying the Cyndaquil and I am having difficulty when it comes to the legs. I have taken it apart 4 times now. I follow the directions around and it is too big....follow number of stitches only and comes out too small. Like rounds 5-8 where it says to go sc around but only 21 stitches. Please help! Julia

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