Tails Plushie

 

I guess I couldn't make sonic without Tails to travel with him.   I have to say that even though the pattern seems complex when you're reading the instructions,  it's really not that difficult once you get going.

I've been extremely busy recently,  and it's likely I won't be working on any dolls for a couple of weeks.   Spring has sprung  (well at least here in Texas)  and I have my vegetable garden to plant,  and spring cleaning to attend to...and quite frankly I just need to get up off my carcass and do some stuff that I've neglected over the winter.  LOL

I'm also working on some other projects which I've been putting off ... some of which you'll see on here,  others are baby shower gifts and one wedding gift.

I'll post though when I have more stuff to share!

As always,  if you are confused with the pattern,  or find something wrong with it,  please let me know,  I'll help ya out or fix the problem asap :) 

Happy Hookin' y'all!

Miles *Tails* Prower

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in Gold, white and red
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Sewing needle and sewing thread to match yarn and felt
Bits of felt in white, blue and black

NOTES:

Gauge isn't critical to this project, as long as your choice of hook and yarn result in a tight, even stitch throughout the doll.

The tail has some different instructions for color changes.  It's helpful to read through the instructions for the tail and the pattern progression completely before beginning to familiarize yourself with the process. 

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.


BODY:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic circle  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6-12:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 14-16:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (25)
(Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already,  stuff moderately firm and continue stuffing as you progress)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (15)
Rnd 20:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
Rnd 21:  working in Front Loops Only,  sc in each sc around  (10)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed finish the body shape as desired.  Weave ends.

BELLY FRONT PANEL:
(using white)

NOTE:  Front panel is bit more involved than most, due to the shape.  The final round seems daunting when reading the instructions, but it's really much easier than it looks.  Take your time and you'll soon see how the pattern works.

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc 1,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  join to first sc with slip stitch, do not turn  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  3 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc,  join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn.  (22)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in last 2 sc.  join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn.  (30)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 7 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in last 3 sc.  join to first sc of round with sl st, do not turn.  (38)
Rnd 6:  sc in first sc,  ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next sc. Ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, skip one sc, sc in next sc.  Ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook,  sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch,  skip one sc, 2 sc in next sc (corner),  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc (corner).  Ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook,  sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch,  skip one sc, sc in next sc.  Ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, skip one sc, sc in next sc.  Ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next sc. Sc in each of next 4 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in last 4 sc.
You should now have the front panel with the three 'points' on each side at the top (as shown in pictures)
F/O and weave in loose ends.



HEAD:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic circle  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8-14:  sc in each sc around  (49)
Rnd 15:  Sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 16-17:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 19:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately firm while shaping and continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 20:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 22:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 23:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping,  weave the tail through the final round and tug gently to close the opening. Secure and weave in end.

MUZZLE:

Again this section might seem very daunting when just reading the instructions,  the final round is similar to the final round of the front panel done earlier,  just take it one step at a time and you'll soon see how it works.  This piece doesn't work well with continuous rounds, so you'll need to join each round with a slip stitch as indicated.

(using white)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic circle,  join last sc to first sc with slip stitch, ch 1  (8)
Rnd 2:  sc in same stitch as joining slip stitch,  2 dc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 dc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in last sc,  join with slip stitch to first sc,  ch 1.  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in same stitch as joining slip stitch, sc in next st,  2 dc in each of the next 2 sts,  sc in next 4 sts,  2 dc in each of the next 2 sts,  sc in last 2 sts.  Join with slip stitch to first sc,  ch 1  (16)
Rnd 4:  hdc in same stitch as joining slip stitch,  sc in next 2 sts,  3 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts,  3 dc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in next 2 sts, hdc in last st.  Join with slip stitch to first sc,  ch1.  (24)
Rnd 5:  hdc in same stitch as joining slip stitch, slip stitch in next 3 sts, sc next st,  *Ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next 2 chs,  sc in next st of round* repeat from * to *  3 more times  (total of four 'points'),   slip stitch next 7 sts,  sc next st,    *Ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next 2 chs,  sc in next st of round* repeat from * to *  3 more times  (total of four 'points'),  slip stitch next 3 sts, hdc last stitch. Join with slip stitch to first hdc of round.
F/O. Weave in ends.

Muzzle is stuffed lightly (to shape) and attached to the head at the lower front side as shown.  I recommend that you pin it first, before sewing it on.  A little stretching and fiddling around with its position is probably going to be needed.  When you have it pinned in a position you like,  sew it on securely  (use a needle and white sewing thread is highly preferable,  as it will result in a more 'natural' looking joining than if you use yarn to attach it)  Make any small adjustments as you sew.

NOSE:

(using black)

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around  (4)
F/O leaving a small tail.  Stuff the tail into the nose  (that's all the stuffing you'll need).  Sew onto muzzle as shown with black sewing thread.


HAND/ARMS  (make 2)

Beginning with white at hand:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  working in front loops only;  2 sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 6-7:  sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 8: slip stitch in each sc around
F/O.  Curl cuff down over hand.

ARM:

Attach gold yarn to free loop from rnd 5.

Rnd 1:  sc in same loop as joining.  sc in next 2 loops,  dec over next 2 loops,  sc in next 3 loops, dec over last 2 loops  (8)
Rnd 2-10:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Stuff arm lightly to shape (but don't overstuff).  Flatten open end and working through all layers,  sc across end  (4 sc)
F/O and weave in ends.


FEET/LEGS  (make 2)

For those that might be having troubles with the instructions for the feet,  I put up a sort of a picture tutorial here:  http://oth-help.blogspot.com/2013/03/sonic-foot-tutorial.html that may be of greater assistance.   The color of the example is different,  but the process is the same.  :D

Beginning at toe of foot with white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-7:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around,  change to red in last sc of round  (18)
Rnd 9-10:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 11: sc in each sc around,  do not join.  Turn  (18)
Rnd 12-14:  sc in each sc around,  do not join rounds  (18)
Rnd 15:  (beginning heel section) sc in next 6 sc  (leave remaining sc unworked) turn  (6)
Rnd 16-18:  sc in each sc  turning at end of each row  (6)
F/O, leaving a tail.  Using yarn needle,  match the short rows of 6 to other 'side' of the heel,  down heel and across bottom of foot to close up the heel.  You should now have a 'foot' shaped piece.  Stuff the foot moderately.

Beginning cuff:

Attach white to a stitch at the center of the heel portion of the foot. 

Rnd 1:  sc in same stitch as joining.  sc 11 more sc evenly around the opening of the foot  (12)
Rnd 2: working in front loops only;   2 sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 6:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
F/O leave long tail.  Curl the cuff down towards the foot.  Add some stuffing lightly in the cuff to shape it as you like.  Using the long tail and a yarn needle,  weave through the last round worked and gently pull to tighten it.  When you're pleased with the shape,  secure the yarn and weave in loose ends.

Leg:

Attach gold yarn to a free loop from round 2 of cuff.

Rnd 1:  sc in same loop as joining,  sc in next 3 loops,  dec over next 2 loops,  sc next 4 loops, dec over last 2 loops  (10)
Rnd 2-9:  sc in each sc around  (10)
F/O.  Stuff leg moderately but not overstuffed.  Leave opening.


EARS  (make 2)

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 10:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Flatten ear (ears aren't stuffed) and sc evenly across the end through all layers  (you'll have 10 or 11 sc across depending on how you work it,  it doesn't matter as long as both ears have the same 10 or 11 sc across) 
Cut a piece of white felt to fit inside the ear as shown and sew it on with sewing thread to match the felt.


TAILS (make 2):

NOTE:  Rnds 23-30 of this part of the pattern will be worded very differently than other parts.  You will see something like this:  W-1, G-6 etc.   This means to work 1 sc in white then 6 sc in gold,  changing the colors as appropriate.  Carry the unused color behind your work to be picked up as you need it.  There will also be an 'alternate' tail pattern for those that would rather not do the frequent color changes.


Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (14)
Rnd 11:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (16)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (18)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Begin stuffing tail if you haven't already.  Stuff moderately but don't overstuff.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 16:  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (20)
Rnd 17:  sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 9 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 9 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (22)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (24)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (26)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (28)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around, change to white in last sc of round (28)
Rnd 23:  (refer to above notes for rounds 23 thru 30 for explanation of instructions)  W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6, W-1, G-6  (28)
Rnd 24:  W-2, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-3, G-4, W-1  (28)
Rnd 25:  W-3, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-5, G-2, W-2  (28)
Rnd 26:  repeat rnd 25  (28)
Rnd 27:  W-4, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-6, G-1, W-2  (28)
Rnd 28:  repeat rnd 27  (F/O gold at end of round)  (28)
Rnd 29-30:  Sc in each sc around  (28)
Rnd 31:  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc (26)
Rnd 32:  sc in each sc around  (26)
Rnd 33:  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc  (24)
Rnd 34:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 35:  * Ch 7,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook,  sc next ch,  hdc in next ch,  dc in next 2 chs,  treble crochet in last ch,  skip 3 sc,  sl st next sc * ,  repeat * to * for a total of 6 'points'. 
F/O.  Weave in end.   Flatten end of tail matching up the points for a total of 3 points.   Using white sewing thread and sewing needle,  sew the points together  to create the 'end' of the tail (see photos for help).  

ALTERNATE TAIL:

Work as shown to rnd 21.

Rnd 22-25:  Sc in each sc around,  change to white in last sc of round 25  (28)

Rnd 26-30:  sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 31-35:  complete tail as per instructions above.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning parts and pieces together before sewing.   This allows you to position the pieces to your liking,  and to make small adjustments before making it permanent.     Using strong sewing thread to sew parts together also makes for a smoother, more natural looking  joint than if using the yarn, but yarn will work too if that's what you have.

Using the pictures to aid you in placement:  Sew head to body.   Sew front body panel to center of front of body,  centered with muzzle (as shown).

Arms are sewn to the side of the body,  legs to the bottom of the body and positioned as you find most pleasing.

Ears are sewn to the top of the head, just very slightly back from center.

The 'cowlicks' in the front of the head are  created by 'Ch 13,  sl st in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next 4 ch,  hd in next 4 ch,  dc in remaining chs.   F/O Weave in ends.   (make three of these)  Sew these in a 'line' to the center of the forehead as shown. 

Mouth is embroidered on as shown.

Eyes are cut from white felt,  large ovals with a slightly flat bottom to the eye,  curved just to match the curve of the muzzle.   Cut smaller ovals of Blue felt for iris of eye,  and slightly smaller ovals for the pupil of the eye.   Catch lights are tiny ovals positioned as shown in the eye.

Tails are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown in the pictures,  positioned as you like.


Miles "Tails" Prower, and Sonic the Hedgehog are Copyright Sega.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it in any way, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Sonic Plushie

 

This is the latest of the plushies I've been working on.  Sonic came out better than I had thought it would at first,  and for *once* I'm really kinda pleased with how his face came out.  I'm really not very good at the faces, but I think Sonic's turned out pretty spiffy for a change :D

I've tried to include pictures that will help you as you're putting him together,  the hair/spikes look alot more difficult than they are,  just take your time and pin them all on before you sew them down to make sure you're pleased with the overall look first,   and it comes together pretty easily.

I've had a really ugly cold all week,  so I hope there aren't any mistakes or typoes in the pattern,  I've checked it through several times and I *think* it's all there and in order,  but if you run into a problem or typo,  or just get confused,  let me know and I'll fix it as quickly as I can :) 

Materials:

WW yarn in blue,  tan, red and white 
G Hook
Fiberfill
Small amounts of felt in white, green black and tan
Sewing needle and thread to match yarns and felts


NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important,  as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a tight even stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

I prefer to join my rounds and the pattern was designed by joining rounds.  If you prefer working in continuous rounds,  that will work,  but your results may be a little different from the dolls shown.

I highly recommend using a good sewing thread and strong sewing needle to sew your doll parts together.  This will create a more pleasing seam/joining with less bulk.  Thread also allows you to make small adjustments during the sewing process that yarn cannot do.

I also recommend using the 'invisible decrease' method when working with dolls like this.  Simply make your decrease stitches the same as you normally do,  only work them through the 'FRONT LOOPS only'.  Work all your other sc's through both loops,  only work the decrease stitches through the front loops.   This isn't completely invisible,  but it does *greatly* reduce the unsightly gaps that standard decrease stitches will cause when working in the round and making repeated decreases.

Please read through entire pattern and assembly before you begin,  to help you to understand the process. 

BODY:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8-12:  sc in each sc around (49)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
(begin stuffing here if you haven't already - stuff moderately firm,  continue stuffing as you progress)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 17:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 18:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O and leave a tail.  Add any stuffing needed to finish out the shaping.  Weave tail through last round and pull gently to close.  Secure and weave in ends.

TAN BELLY SPOT:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
F/O and weave in ends.  Pin to center of body as shown and carefull sew down.  (I chose to use the 'back' of the body to add the belly spot to,  it leaves the 'nicer' beginning rounds exposed at the back,  and the spot covers any irregularities that occur when making repetitive decreases.)


HEAD:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (56)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (63)
Rnd 10-13:  sc in each sc around  (63)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (56)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (49)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
(begin stuffing here if you haven't already - stuff moderately firm,  continue stuffing as you progress)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (28)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 20:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 21:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O and weave in ends.  Add any stuffing that might be needed to finish the shaping.   There is no real need to close up the hole at the neck.

MUZZLE:

*using tan*

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next sts,  2 hdc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in next 2 sts,  2 hdc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in last st  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sts,  2 hdc in each of next 2 sts,  sc next 4 sts,  2 hdc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in last 2 sts  (16)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sts,  2 hdc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 3 sts  (20)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sts,  2 dc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 4 sts  (24)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sts,  2 dc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in next 10 sts,  2 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 5 sts  (28)
Rnd 7:  slip stitch in next 6 sts,  3 dc in each of next 2 sts,  sc in next 12 sts,  3 dc in each of next 2 sts, slip stitch in last 6 sts  (36 -  12 slip stitches, 12 sc,  12 dc)
F/O.   Weave in ends.  stuff light to moderately.

NOSE:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2-3:  sc in each sc around  (4)
F/O.  Stuff loose ends into nose (that should be about enough stuffing for it)


EARS:
(make 2)

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (14)
F/O weave in ends.   Cut a triangle shape from tan felt and sew to inside of front of ear as shown.  *VERY* lightly stuff the ear,  only just enough to give it the shape, without overstuffing. 


HANDS/ARMS: 
(make 2)

Begin at hand with white.


Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3-9:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (12)
Rnd 11:  Working in front loops only,  2 sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 12-13:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 14:  slip stitch in each sc around  (24)
F/O,  weave in ends.

Begin arm:

Rnd 1:  Attach tan yarn to any free loop on hand from round 11.  Sc in same loop as join. Sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  *  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc *   repeat from * to * around  (9)
Rnd 2-14:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 15:   stuff arm light to moderately to shape,  but not overstuff.  Hand is very lightly stuffed if desired.  Flatten end of arm and sc through all layers across end.  (4)
F/O weave in ends. 
            

FEET/LEGS:
(make 2)

For those that might be having troubles with the instructions for the feet,  I put up a sort of a picture tutorial here:  http://oth-help.blogspot.com/2013/03/sonic-foot-tutorial.html that may be of greater assistance.  :D

Begin at feet with red:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (16)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (20)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 6-11:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 12:  sc in each sc around,  do not join round,  ch 1 and turn  (24)
Rnd 13-15:  repeat rnd 12  (24)
(begin 'heel')
Rnd 16:  sc in next 10 sc,  ch1 turn  (10)
Rnd 17-19:  repeat rnd 16  (10)
F/O.  Leave long tail.  Line up the edges of heel flap with opposite side of work  (it will resemble a shoe shape'.   Using tail and yarn needle,  whipstitch the two sides to each other matching the stitches.  Sew across the bottom of the 'heel'.  Weave in ends.

Begin leg with 'sock roll':

Rnd 1:Attach white to a stitch at the center of the 'heel' portion of the foot,  sc in same stitch as joining.  Sc 14 more sc evenly spaced around the opening of the foot.  Slip stitch to the first sc of the round.   (15)
Rnd 2:  working in Front Loops Only,  2 sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 3:  working through all loops again, sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 4:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (45)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (45)
Rnd 6:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
F/O  Weave in ends.  The 'sock' should roll naturally into shape,  but you can always arrange it however you prefer.

Stuff foot moderately firm, but not overstuffed.  Shape as you stuff.

Upper leg:

Rnd 1:  Attach blue yarn to a free loop from rnd 2 of the 'sock' roll.    Sc in same loop as joining,  and each loop around  (15)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)
Rnd 3:  repeat rnd 2  (13)
Rnd 4:  repeat rnd 2  (12)
Rnd 5-16:  sc in each sc around  (12)

Stuff leg moderately firm.  F/O and weave in ends. 

HAIR / SPIKES:

Large Spikes
(make 6)

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 8-9:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 11-12:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 14-15:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 16:  HDC in first 10 sc.   F/O and weave in ends.  (10 hdc)

Small Spikes
(make 2)

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 4-5:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 7-8:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 10-11:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 12:  HDC in first 8 sc.  F/O and weave in ends.  (10 hdc)

Spikes are left unstuffed. 

TAIL:

Rnd 1:  3 sc in magic ring  (3)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around  (3)
Rnd 3:  2 sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 5:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sca round  (12)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 10:  sc in each sc around  (15)
F/O,  weave in ends.  Stuff tail moderately firm.


FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend using a good sewing thread and needle to sew parts together and to body.  You can use matching yarn,  but this tends to create bulk at joinings which is not always desired.    I also *highly* recommend pinning parts before sewing to assure placement desired and that you're happy with how it looks before making it permanent.  Small adjustments can be made during the sewing process if needed.

Sew ears to top of head as shown.  Sew head to body.  Muzzle is sewn to the bottom center of the face,  centered with ears as shown.  Nose is sewn to center top of muzzle. 

Spikes are  left 'flat'  and curved slightly at the widest end,  with the 10 HDC facing up.  The spikes are arranged on the back of the head in three rows roughly in the order shown   (three curved around top of the back of the head,  three curved around the center of the back of the head,  and the two *small* spikes are at the bottom of the back of the head,  facing more in a downward position)  The top row of spikes will have the 'center' spike placed  centered between the ears and about 2 rows behind them.  The other spikes can  then be placed in relationship to the top center spike.

Pin all the spikes to the head before sewing.  This way you can be certain of the placement.  I found that sewing from the bottom spikes upwards helped.  Small adjustments can be made during the sewing process.  Be certain that the row of hdc is always 'up' on the spikes  (this is the easiest part of the piece to sew through onto the head and gives you a spike that can be 'adjusted' and changed around somewhat to suit.

Sew arms to sides of body as shown and position as desired.    Legs are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown,  making sure that the feet are positioned as desired.

Tail is sewn to bottom of body on the back as shown.

Cut white felt piece in shape of eyes as shown.  Position and pin before sewing to ensure you're happy with the placement.   Cut small ovals of green felt for eyes and sew or glue in position desired.  Smaller ovals of black are placed inside of the green felt for pupils.  Tiny ovals of white felt  for 'catch lights' are last  (see photos for help)

For the 'brow ridge'   Ch 38 with blue yarn.  Do not fasten off yet.  Pin this chain evenly around the eyes as shown,  add or remove any chains needed to complete the brow ridge around the eyes.  F/O chain and sew carefully around white part of eyes.   Weave any loose ends of the chain into the doll to hide them.

Mouth is simply embroidered with black floss or yarn as shown.

If you wish,  you can add a 'gold ring' as shown in the pictures by chaining 25 with gold yarn.  Join the chain to create a ring.  Sc in each ch around and join.  Slip stitch in each sc around and join to first slip stitch.  This will cause the ring to naturally 'curl' into a rounded shape,  you might need to help it along a little.   Sew to hand or however desired.

If you have some nice golden 'curtain rings' like those used for cafe style curtains,  one of those would be nice too,  Even a large sized gold hoop earring would work in some cases  (a nice way to utilize that 'single' hoop you have hanging around but didn't want to throw out  :)


SONIC THE HEDGEHOG is copyright Sega.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (February 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it in any way, or sell items made from this pattern.