Luigi Plushie

Well, I knew it had to happen.

I'm sitting here, working hard on new patterns, and there sits Mario, alone, waiting, occasionally tapping his foot and staring me down. Ok, ok... I get it! You want Luigi, right? Well yes, he did... so being a good little doll-maker, I obliged him his request.

Here's Luigi... companion doll to my Mario Plushie.

He's somewhat like Mario in construction, but obviously there are some differences. Read the pattern through before starting to see where the changes are.

As always, if you run into any trouble, send me a message and I'll get back to you as soon as I can! :D


MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue, green, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black)
2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it)
Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle


NOTES:

Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll


HEAD (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (33)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (33)
Rnd 13: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along.
Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 16: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 18: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


NOSE (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape.


EARS:

(using peach, make 2)

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3)
Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7)
Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7)
F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape)


MUSTACHE:

(using black)

ch 12, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, hdc in next ch, 2 dc in next 2 ch, dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, slip stitch in last 2 chs.
F/O weave in ends. using sewing thread, pinch the middle of the mustache and secure with thread.


BODY (starting with blue):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc. In last stitch, change to green yarn (32)
Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24)
Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 1 sc (12)
Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open.


HANDS/ARMS (starting with white):

(hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb')
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach green yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.

(alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach green yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.


SUSPENDERS (using blue):

Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2)
Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2)
F/O Weave in ends.


LEGS/FEET:

Legs (using blue, make 2)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around. (16)
F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end.

Feet (using brown, make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 11: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desigreen. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body)


HAT:

(using green)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (52)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (52)
Rnd 9: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 10: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc aorund (42)
Rnd 11: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end)
Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36)
F/O and weave in ends.

Brim/bill of hat:

Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12)
Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12)
Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12)
Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10)
Do not turn.

Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends


HAT LOGO:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
F/O weave in ends.

Cut an L from green felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper L as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat)


SIDE BURNS:

(Using brown, make 2)

Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2)
Row 2: sc in both sc (2)
Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1)
F/O weave in ends.


HAIR:

(using black)

Row 1: ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch.
F/O



ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.

Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centegreen on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head.

Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown.

Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'.

Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown.

Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention.



Luigi and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Mario Plushie

This pattern has been a long time in the posting. I've argued with myself over whether or not I should sell this one, but I just couldn't do it. I know it would sell well, and I surely do need the money, but the whole reason I began making these FAN ART plushes was because I know very well how hard it is to find good patterns to make things like these for the kids. I started out looking for patterns to make for my kids, and I found none that I could afford and so started making them myself.

I will mention though that if anyone feels inclined to make a donation for the patterns I offer for free here, I have a donation button on the right hand side of the page, the amount is up to you and every donation is deeply appreciated. I do have an Etsy shop where I sell some of my original designs, but I do not sell FAN ART patterns there, those patterns I always offer for free here, because I don't believe FAN ART should be shared on condition of payment, it's a labor of love.

Ok... the pattern. This is a more complicated pattern than most of my plushes on here. That's mostly due to the fact there are many smaller parts ... but they aren't really difficult, just different. I have checked the pattern many times and I feel like everything is there and is right, but if you run into anything that gives you trouble, just message me, I will be more than happy to help you. I try to check email at least three times a day if not more often.

All the pictures are clickable so you can see them in larger size and get a better idea of the details such as ears, sideburns, etc. I tried to get as many different views as possible.


MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue, red, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black)
2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it)
Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle


NOTES:

Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning, to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll


HEAD (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along.
Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 16: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 17: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


NOSE (using peach):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape.


EARS:

(using peach, make 2)

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3)
Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7)
Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7)
F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape)


MUSTACHE:

(using black)

Ch 7, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook.
Ch 5, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch
Ch 5, slip stich in last ch.
F/O weave in ends.


BODY (starting with blue):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around.  In last stitch, change to red yarn (32)
Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24)
Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 23: sc in each sc around (18)
Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open.


HANDS/ARMS (starting with white):

(hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb')
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.

(alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O white.
Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand.
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10)
Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across)
F/O weave in ends.


SUSPENDERS (using blue):

Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2)
Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2)
F/O Weave in ends.


LEGS/FEET:

Legs (using blue, make 2)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around. (16)
F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end.

Feet (using brown, make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 11: dec over next 2 sc around (7)
F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desired. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body)


HAT:

(using red)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (54)
Rnd 9: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (45)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (45)
Rnd 11: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end)
Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36)
F/O and weave in ends.

Brim/bill of hat:

Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12)
Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12)
Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12)
Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10)
Do not turn.

Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends


HAT LOGO:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
F/O weave in ends.

Cut an M from red felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper M as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat)


SIDE BURNS:

(Using brown, make 2)

Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2)
Row 2: sc in both sc (2)
Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1)
F/O weave in ends.


HAIR:

(using black)

Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch.
F/O



ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.

Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centered on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head.

Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown.

Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'.

Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown.

Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention.




Mario and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Fireflower

FireFlower is by request. I had tons of email requests for this one. I understand that in the newer games the FireFlower isn't in a box, but I needed to put it in one so that it would stand up. So I sort of combined several different evolutions of FireFlower for this plushie :)

The cube/box is done in rounds, like a ball which makes it a little different from most 'boxes'. It's done using the same technique as the cube in the Chain Chomp pattern, and is easy enough even for novice crocheters.

As always if you have any problems with the pattern or just have a question please feel free to either leave it in a comment or email me :).


FIREFLOWER

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in medium brown, white, yellow, orange, green
G hook
Fiberfill
Small amount of dark brown felt (or dark brown yarn)
Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match colors of yarn and sewing needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't that important, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing wont show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.



BOX/CUBE:

Box is worked in one piece. It's a little different than working a ball in rounds, the increases and decreases are different, but similar enough that it should be easy even for beginners with a little patience. I recommend joining your rounds, but if you are comfortable enough using continuous rounds, it's worth a try.

[Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.]

Using med brown yarn:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4)

Rnd 2: ch 1 3 sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. *3 sc next sc. sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21)

Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28)

Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 2 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round ( 36)

Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 7: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 10 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 5 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (52)


Rnd 8: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around, join with sl st. (52)

Rnd 9-21: (working in both loops now) sc in each sc around joining each round with sl st to first sc of round (52)

Rnd 22: (working in back loops only for this round) ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 5 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 10 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 5 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 23: (working in both loops again) ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (36)

Rnd 24: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. * Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (28)

You probably will need to begin stuffing cube at this point (if you haven't already), and continue as you progress. Take care to stuff so that the shape of a cube is retained with minimum bulging of the sides (some bulging is natural) See the picture for references.

Rnd 25: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc 2 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (21)

Rnd 26: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 27: c1 Dec3 over next 3 sc around join with sl st to first sc of round (4).

F/O leaving tail for finishing off.

Using the blunt end of crochet hook, chopstick or eraser end of pencil, add any stuffing necessary to finish out cube shape. With yarn needle, weave the tail through the last 4 stitches of final round and pull to tighten. Tie off.

If you like, you can add some weighted material to the cube to make in heavier. FireFlower makes a cute paperweight.

FLOWER (make 2):

Beginning with white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 3. Change to yellow yarn in last sc, F/O white yarn) (14)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 2 sc. (20)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 4 sc. Change to orange yarn in last stitch. F/O yellow yarn. (26)

Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last 6 sc. (32)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (32)

F/O. Place the two flower sides together (right side facing out) and sew together using whip stitch. Add small amount of stuffing evenly across the flower before closing.

Using sewing thread (doubled) and needle, sew around the inside of each flower were the colors change going through both sides of flower (once around where white meets yellow, and once around where yellow meets orange) This will help to shape flower and keep stuffing from gathering in one corner later on.

Add two eyes by using some black yarn and making a couple of whipstitches in the center of the white part of one side (see photo)


STEM:

Using green:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring. (8)
Rnd 2-16: sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 17: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (16)

F/O and stuff stem firmly. It will help if you have a chopstick or use the eraser end of a pencil to move the stuffing down and help shape the stem.

Sew the wide end of the stem to the back of the flower (see photos)

LEAVES:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc (14)
Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)
Rnd 11: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)
Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

F/O. Flatten leaves and sew wider end to stem as shown in photos.

Sew flower to center of top of cube/box. This might require some extra stitches to help it stand up. If you stuffed the stem very firmly, it should be able to stand fairly well on it's own.

Cut 16 small circles from brown felt. Sew or glue to each corner of the sides of the cube/box as shown. If you prefer, you can use an F hook and dark brown yarn and make 5 sc in a magic ring, join and f/o, sew to the corners.




FireFlower and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Luma Plushie

Yay! More mario plushies! LOL.. well I had to make Luma. I've had dozens of requests for it, and it's a fairly simple pattern to design, and I needed easy. Working on my current commission project is draining my last ounce of patience, so this was a welcome break :D

Luma can be made in just about any color you want... so have a blast. lol

As always, if you find anything wrong with the pattern, or just need to ask a question, please feel free to comment or send me an email and I'll get back to you as soon as I can :)


Luma

Materials:

ww yarn yellow
G hook
fiberfill
small amount of black and white felt
yarn needle

Notes:

Gauge isn't important as long as your yarn and hook choice results in a tight stitch so that the stuffing material doesn't show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each row/round indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.


BODY:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 13: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)
Rnd 14-16: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 18-19: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 20: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 21-22: sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 23: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 24-25: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 26: sc in next 8 sc, *dec over next 2 sc* repeat * to * 3 more times, sc in each of last 8 sc (20)
Begin stuffing here, continue stuffing as you progress. Be sure to stuff rather firmly and shape as you stuff.
Rnd 27: sc in next 6 sc, *dec over next 2 sc* repeat * to * 3 more times, sc in each of last 6 sc (16)
Rnd 28: sc in next 4 sc, *dec over next 2 sc* repeat * to * 3 more times, sc in each of last 4 sc (12)
Rnd 29: sc in next 2 sc, *dec over next 2 sc* repeat * to * 3 more times, sc in each of last 2 sc (8)
Rnd 30-31: sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 32: dec over next 2 sc around (4)

F/O. Stuff the last few rows VERY lightly, just enough to help it hold it's shape. Weave yarn through the last round and pull to close. Secure and weave in end.


ARMS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc (14)
Rnd 6: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc (16)

F/O. Stuff lightly to give some dimension, but don't overstuff (you want to keep that semi-triangular shape)


LEGS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
Rnd 4: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)
Rnd 5: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

F/O. Stuff to shape. Legs should be stuffed relatively firm.


ASSEMBLY: Sew the legs to the bottom as shown (longer side facing 'out'). Sew arms to sides in line with legs as shown.

I recommend cutting eye shapes from paper before cutting out felt pieces. This lets you get the size and shape you want just right before cutting the felt. Sew eyes in place as shown and add two very small circles of white felt as 'catch lights' to the eyes.



Luma and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

King Boo

August 20, 2009

King Boo was a request by my girls. I made him on a whim really, watching a movie with the kids. He looks a bit ragged here, because the girls were chasing each other around the house with him... I figure he's been through the ringer already :D

I'll see what I can do about getting some better pictures of him, if I can wrestle him away from the girls long enough. LOL


As always, if you have any problems with or questions about the pattern, just message or email me, I'll get back to you as soon as I can .


King Boo

Materials:

WW yarn in white and gold, small bits of black yarn
G hook
Fiberfill
Pieces of felt in black, white and red
Glue on type jewels for crown (or assorted scraps of felt)
Yarn Needle

Notes:

Gauge isnt important, as long as your choice of yarn and needle result in a tight stitch so that stuffing material won't show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.


BODY:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (64)
Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (72)
Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (80)
Rnd 11-20: sc in each sc around (80)
Rnd 21: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (72)
Rnd 22: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (64)
Rnd 23: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56)
Rnd 24: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 25: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, continue to stuff and shape as you go. Stuff and shape the body very firmly.
Rnd 26: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 27: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 28: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)
Rnd 29: dec over next 2 sc around (8)

F/O, add any stuffing to finish the shape out firmly. Weave in end through last round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends.


ARMS/WINGS: (make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc (14)
Rnd 6: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc (16)
Rnd 7: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc (18)
Rnd 8: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc (20)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (20)

F/O. Do not stuff, flatten and weave in end.

TAIL:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
Rnd 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)
Rnd 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)
Rnd 7: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)
Rnd 8: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in last sc (20)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (20)

F/O stuff very lightly just to give it a little shape. Weave in end.

CROWN:

Using gold:

Rnd 1: Ch 30. join to form a ring and sc in each ch around (30)
Rnd 2-5: sc in each sc around. (30)
Do not fasten off.

First point

Row 1: sc in first 6 sc. Turn, (6)
Row 2: skip first sc, sc in each sc across turn (5)
Row 3: skip first sc, sc in each sc across, turn (4)
Row 4: skip first sc, sc in each sc across turn (3)
Row 5: skip first sc, sc in each sc across turn (2)
Row 6: skip first sc, sc in second sc (1)

F/O, weave in ends.

Remaining four points

Row 1: Attach yarn to next sc to left of previous point, sc in same sc as joining, and in next five sc (6)
Row 2-6: same as first point.

After final point, glue on jewels or cut pieces of colored felt and glue/sew on as shown to each point.


ASSEMMBLY:

I recommend pinning all pieces in place before sewing. In this particular case, I finished the face before I pinned and sewed the wings/tail/crown so that I could be sure of proper placement. Embroider the eyebrows as shown. Add pieces of black felt for eyes.

Cut a piece of red felt for the mouth and some white for the teeth. (you might find cutting them from paper first is best, so you can be sure of the size and shape before cutting your felt) Cut a long piece that is rounded on one end for the tongue. Run a length of sewing thread through the flat end and gently pull to gather, sew to mouth as shown so that it drapes over.

Add wings, tail and crown as shown.

There are many other Boo characters ... all are based on this basic shape. Try them all :)



Boo, King Boo and Mario Brothers are all copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Toad and Toadette

August 20, 2009

Took me long enough didn't it? LOL. Recently while playing one of the old mario games, I fell in love with Toadette and just HAD to make her. Well I couldn't just make her, without making Toad too... so here they are.

I left the color choices open in the pattern, because there is a rather extensive 'toad' family of characters that can be made with the basic head/body in this pattern... so the colors are up to you.

You should probably read through the whole pattern before starting, simply because there are a few different parts to make and it's easier if you have an idea of the whole thing before you start. I tried to make it as easy to follow as possible.

If you find anything wrong or just need some help with these guys, feel free to post a message or send an email, I'll get back ASAP :D


Toad and Toadette

Materials:

WW yarn in your choice of colors, used for these patterns was: White, violet, red, tan, warm brown, bright blue, gold
G Hook
Fiberfill
Sewing thread to match yarns and needle (optional)
Yarn Needle
Small bits of felt in black and white for eyes

Dolls made with materials and hook listed measure approx. 9 inches high.

Notes: The two dolls in this pattern are the same in the basic body, so there is only one pattern for that, the different parts such as vests, braids, etc are included. If you are interested in the rest of the toad family, the basic head/body pattern here is the same for them, just make the extra features you need (mustache and cane for Toadsworth, etc). You can make the entire group from the basic head/body pattern.

When sewing pieces together, I recommend using a matching sewing thread and needle, rather than yarn. This helps to reduce unwanted and unnecessary bulk that may cause the doll to be misshapen. Yarn is perfectly fine if you prefer that, but if you can, opt for the sewing thread.

Gauge isn't important, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through. Hook and yarn choice will determine finished size of the dolls.

Numbers at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.


HEAD:

Lower section/Face:
Using tan:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 11: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
F/O. Stuff firmly and shape while stuffing. Do not close off open end.

Mushroom Cap/top:
Using base color for mushroom:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)
Rnd 8-13: sc in each sc around (56)
Rnd 14: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
F/O. Stuff firmly and shape. Place open end of cap over open end of 'face'. Adjust to angle desired and pin in place. Sew firmly and evenly around (either with matching sewing thread *recommended*, or matching yarn)

Spots for top of mushroom cap:

Using color of choice:
Make 5:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 HDC in each sc around (16)
F/O and secure and weave yarn.

The five spots are sewn to the cap with one at the very top/center and the remaining four are spaced evenly around the side (see photo for assistance in placement)


BODY:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 6-8: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 9: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 11: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around. Change to tan color in last stitch (24)
Rnd 12-13: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 14: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 15-16: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 17: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O and stuff body firmly Don't close open end.


ARMS (without thumb, easier to make):

Using tan:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc (6)
Rnd 4-9: sc in each sc around (6)

F/O (arms are not stuffed)

----------------------------------------------------------------
ALTERNATE ARM (with thumb, as shown in pictures):

Rnd 1-2: same as above
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, ch 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in same sc as last sc made. sc in next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (pull 'thumb' forward and keep stitches behind it in this round) (6)
Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (6)
----------------------------------------------------------------

FEET:

Using warm brown:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3-8: sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 9: dec over next 2 sc around (8)

F/O and VERY lightly stuff.


VEST:

Using main color of vest:
(Do not ch 1 before turning)

Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across , turn (12)
Row 2: sc in first sc, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc * repeat from * to * across (18)
Row 3: sc in each sc across (18)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, * sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc * repeat from * to * across (24)
Row 5: sc in each sc across (24)
Row 6: sc in first 3 sc, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc * repeat from * to * across (30)
Row 7: sc in each sc across (30)
Row 8: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc * repeat from * to * across (36)

F/O main color, attach gold. 3 sc in corner sc, sc evenly around entire 'vest', putting 3 sc in each corner. F/O weave in ends.

-----------------------------------------------

For TOADETTE:

DRESS:

Rnd 1: ch 12, join to form ring, sc in each ch around (12)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7-8: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 10-11: sc in each sc around. Change to white yarn in last stitch of round 11, don't fasten off main color, drop main color to pick up next round. (42)
Rnd 12: sc in each sc around. Change to first color in last stitch of round (42)
Rnd 13: sc in each sc around (42)

F/O and weave in all ends. Slip the 'dress' over the body so that neck of body and neck of dress meet. Sew securely at neck. Vest is fitted over dress and sewn securely at neckline and along the front opening (leaving bottom unsewn as shown in pictures)

BRAIDS:

Using main color of mushroom cap:

Make 2 of the following:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4-5: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Begin stuffing FIRMLY, be sure to shape into ball as you stuff.
Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O and finish stuffing firmly and shaping. Weave tail through final round and pull to close. Secure end and weave in.


Make 4 of the following:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 5: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

Stuff Firmly and shape as you stuff. Weave tail through final round and pull to close. Weave in ends.

Using yarn needle (or other sharp, large eyed needle) and long length of matching yarn, go through center of large 'ball', then through center of two of the small balls keeping them as centered as possible. Leave length of yarn free at top of 'braid' to attach to head later.

Spots for braids:
Using white, make 6:

Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring

Sew three spots on the largest ball of each braid (as shown) evenly spaced.


FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning all pieces together before sewing to ensure that you have them in the placement you like. Remove pins as you sew to prevent the pieces from moving around too much during sewing process.

Sew head securely to neck. Sew arms to sides as shown. Feet are sewn to the bottom of the body.

(Toadette) Braids are sewn to the back of the head on each side, just behind each arm. (see photo)

I recommend cutting eye pieces from paper first and pinning to the face to check for size and shape before cutting from felt. Use the paper pieces as patterns for cutting. Two long ovals in black felt with tiny circles of white for 'catch lights' positioned as shown. Embroider remaining facial features as shown.


Toad, Toadette and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.

Mario Brothers Goomba

Well, after many requests for this fella, here he is. Goomba from Mario Brothers.
He's kinda cute for a grumpy guy. LOL

My girls have already laid claim to him, altho now they're arguing over who gets to keep him in their room.

As always, the pattern is here, and if you have any questions or problems, let me know I'll try to answer as quickly as I can.


Goomba

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in warm (medium) brown and light brown
G hook
Felt pieces in white and black
Yarn Needle
Fiberfill
material for weighting down the plush, like unpopped popcorn or the plastic pellets they sell at craft stores

NOTES:

This doll really needs weight in the base due to it's naturally top-heavy design. I used unpopped popcorn (it's a bit heavier than dried beans) or you can use the plastic pellets they sell at craft stores specifically for this purpose.

Numbers at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.


HEAD/BODY:

Using warm brown:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7-8: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 10-12: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 13: sc next 13 sc, 2 sc next sc (three times) (45)
Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (45)
Rnd 16: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc next sc around (50)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (50)
Rnd 18: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (55)
Rnd 19: repeat rnd 17 (55)
Rnd 20: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)
Rnd 21-24: repeat round 17 (60)
Rnd 25: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (50)
Rnd 26: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

Begin stuffing and shaping the mushroom body here and continue stuffing and shaping as you progress. The body should be stuffed fairly firmly to help maintain the desired shape.

Rnd 27: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 28: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)
Rnd 29: dec over next 2 sc around (10)

F/O leaving long tail. Finish adding any stuffing needed to finalize the shape and weave in the tail, pull closed and tie off


BASE/STEM:

Using light brown:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: Working in Back Loops Only for this round, sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 6-11: (working in both loops again) sc in each sc around (32)

F/O leaving long tail. Fill 3/4 full with weighted material (pellets, popcorn, beans, etc) Stuff the remained with fiberfill firmly sew to the bottom of the body (using the rounds of crochet on the body to help center the stem) using the long tail and add any more stuffing that may be needed to shape the base and hold the weighting material firmly in place. You may find you need to flatten the very bottom of the of the stem a little, but this shouldn't be too difficult as the weighting materials are much more forgiving than fiberfill.

FEET:

Using warm brown, make 2:

Rnd 1: sc 8 in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (twice) (10)
Rnd 3: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (twice) (12)
Rnd 4: sc next 3 sc, 2 sc next sc around (15)
Rnd 5: sc next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc around (18)
Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (18)

Stuff fairly firmly, flatten the open end and match up the stitches. Sc thru both layers (closing the foot as you go) for a total of 9 sc. TURN

Next row: sk the first sc, sc in each sc to the last two sc, dec over the last two sc, (7)

F/O leaving long tail. Sew this 'tab' to the bottom of the stem, and tacking the foot to the stem side as needed to get the desired positioning of the feet. (see picture for placement help)

I highly recommend that you cut out paper 'pieces' for the face features before cutting out the felt and pin the paper pieces to the doll to make sure you have the shape and size you want. Before sewing on the felt pieces, pin them all in position to double check your sizes and shapes before sewing. (it seems like extra work, but it's less than having to take it apart and resew it later. :D)

Embroider the mouth as shown using a small amt of WW black yarn and yarn needle. From white felt, cut two small 'fangs' and place as shown. From black cut the eye 'pupils' and eyebrows and place as shown. Sew the eyebrows so that the upper ends are extending off of the face about 3/4 of an inch or so. Add two very smal circles of white to the black pupils at the positions shown for catch-lights in the eyes if desired.


Mario Brothers and the Goomba Mushroom character is copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Mario Brothers Mushrooms

June 27, 2009

These little plushies were requested. They're really quite simple to make, but I have to admit, I had so much fun, I ended up making all those in one day. I love it when something simple and so much fun comes out looking so very cute :)


Mario Mushrooms

Materials:

WW yarn in white, the colors you need for the tops (varies with the type of mushroom) and a tiny amount of black
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle for weaving in ends

Notes: Gauge isn't important. Any size hook or yarn works here, but choice of yarn and hook will determine the finished size.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.


Mushroom:

Beginning at the base with white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around f/o white (24)
Rnd 8: Join the main color of the mushroom top, 2 sc in Front Loops Only of each sc crochet around (48)
Rnd 9: (working through both loops now) sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)
Rnd 11-13: sc in each sc around (60)
Rnd 14: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (50)
Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (50)
Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (40)

Begin stuffing here if you haven't already. It's important to stuff the mushroom fairly firmly, and shape it as you progress.

Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)
Rnd 20: dec over next 2 sc around (10)

F/O leaving long tail. Using a chopstick or the back side of a large crohet hook, finish stuffing and shape the top. Using yarn needle weave the tail through the last round and pull to close.


Spots (make 5):

Using white (or alternate color):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

F/O and weave ends in on backside of disk.

Position spots with one centered on the top of the mushroom, and four equally spaced around the sides. Sew on. (I like to use sewing thread for these because it doesn't add any unsightly bulk to the spots)

Using black yarn, choose the face 'area' (between two of the side spots) and make a few whipstitches for each eye.


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Using the same pattern you can make very small versions more suitable for phone charms or jewelry. These earrings and pendant I made quite some time back for my girls.


For those, I used a #9 steel crochet hook, and two strands of sewing thread held together (#20 or 30 crochet thread also works great if you have it). Add some jewelry findings and you've got a cute little jewelry set to wear :)


Mario Brothers and the mushroom character is copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Chain-Chomp

This is Chain-Chomp from the Mario Brothers games. I made this because my middle daughter begged me to. LOL. When writing out the pattern for it, I tried to make it as plain as possible, but I'm still learning how to write out patterns for someone other than myself to read, so bear with me. If anything is confusing, please let me know and I'll do my best to explain or change it.

If the cube portion of the pattern just isn't working for you, you can always make a cube by crocheting 6 squares that are 3 to 4 inches in size and sew them together to form a cube. I just like the look of the one piece cube better, but either is just fine.

CHAIN-CHOMP

Materials:

WW black, grey, white and red yarns
G Hook
Small amount of white felt
Thread to match the felt
Yarn Needle
Fiberfil


NOTES:

This pattern requires a little more advanced work than most of the patterns I have to date. Some of the pieces require more manipulation to fit and the general stuffing process is different. With patience though, even beginning crocheters should be able to make Chain-Chomp. I'll do my best to explain the steps as clearly and as simply as I can.

Gauge isn't really important, but your hook, yarn and natural tension should combine to create a moderately tight stitch.

I tried using continuous rounds on this pattern, but it just doesn't work out as well due to it's nature. The cube *can* be worked in continuous rounds, but I found that the cube tended to become lopsided in places because of the need for it to be even on all sides. I recommend joining rounds on this pattern, but if you're more comfortable using continuous rounds, by all means do so.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round/row.


BODY

Using black yarn, make two half domes as follows:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (36)

F/O.

Sew the two half domes together for 18 stitches, leaving the remainder of stitches unworked. This should give you a *pac-man* looking shape with a gaping 'mouth'. Set aside for now.


MOUTH:

Using red yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

F/O

Fold this piece in half, and insert into the 'mouth' of the body. Lining up the stitches, sew the mouth to the body with the 'fold' to the inside. Stuff carefully as you go, making sure that you stuff enough to round out the body, but not to overstuff, so that the mouth still remains 'folded' and inside the body of the chomp. This may require some 'easing' of the mouth piece into the body pieces. In the end, you should have a toothless 'ball with a mouth'.


TEETH:

Make 2 using white:

Row 1: Ch 21, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, DC in same ch. (Skip 2 chs, sl st, ch 3, dc together in the next ch) repeat the instructions in the ( ) to end. F/O

Sew the 'teeth strips' to the opening of the mouth as shown in the picture. Pin them first, to help decide exact placement. A little easing of the strips my be necessary to fit them.

(NOTE: Some may find that using an F hook to make the teeth will result in a better fit. You may need to 'stretch' the base of the strip a bit to fit it, but that's ok in most cases. A little experimentation never hurts!)


CHAIN:

Using gray yarn:

Ch 16. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end. Sl st the two ends together. (I also recommend using grey sewing thread and re-inforcing where the two ends meet on all the chain links)

Repeat for next link, before closing insert through last link (creating the 'chain') then sew closed and make next link. Make the chain as long or as short as you like.

CUBE:

Cube is worked in one piece. It's a little different than working a ball in rounds, the increases and decreases are different, but similar enough that it should be possible even for beginners with a little patience. I recommend joining your rounds, but if you are comfortable enough using continuous rounds, it's worth a try.

[Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.]

Using gray yarn:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4)

Rnd 2: ch 1 3 sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. *3 sc next sc. sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21)

Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28)

Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 2 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round ( 36)

Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 7-18: sc in each sc around joining each round with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 19: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (36)

Rnd 20: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. * Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (28)

You probably will need to begin stuffing cube at this point (if you haven't already), and continue as you progress. Take care to stuff so that the shape of a cube is retained with minimum bulging of the sides (some bulging is natural) See the picture for references.

Rnd 21: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc 2 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (21)

Rnd 22: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 23: c1 Dec3 over next 3 sc around join with sl st to first sc of round (4).

F/O leaving tail for finishing off.

Using the blunt end of crochet hook, chopstick or eraser end of pencil, add any stuffing necessary to finish out cube shape. With yarn needle, weave the tail through the last 4 stitches of final round and pull to tighten. Tie off. Weave in end.


FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Attach chain to back of chomp and to one side of cube.

With white felt, cut two circles and with black felt cut two smaller circles. (on mine, I used a quarter for the white circles and a dime for the black ones, your circles may need to be larger or smaller, depending on your tension and yarn used, but those sizes are a good starting point) Sew the black circles to the center of the white ones as shown in the picture and then to the face of chomp.



Chain-chomp is copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (April 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

BOMBOMB

This little fella I made for me! I filled it halfway with unpopped popcorn kernals, so it's well weighted and it's my new paper-weight. He's Bomomb, from the Mario Bros. games. I always kinda liked him LOL

BOMBOMB

Materials:

WW yarn in black, grey and gold
G Hook
Fiberfill (and some unpopped popcorn or plastic filler pellets if you would like to make it into a paperweight)
Tiny bits of white felt
Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match felt


NOTES:

Gauge isn't really important here, as long as you ensure that your hook, yarn and tension result in a fairly tight stitch. Using different yarn types and hooks can give interesting results and make a larger or smaller plush.

I highly recommend using the 'invisible decrease' especially when working in the round. While it's not completely invisible, it does help to reduce the gaps that concentric decreases tends to leave behind. Overall, it just ends up looking alot neater.

You can work in joined rounds or continuous rounds, whichever is most comfortable for you.


BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-10: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 11: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Begin stuffing at this point and continue as work progresses. If you want to make a paperweight, add unpopped popcorn OR plastic weight pellets to about half way up and finish the rest with fiberfill.

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around. Switch to grey yarn in last (or joining) sc (12)

Rnd 15: Working in Front Loops Only, sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 16-17: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O and leave tail. Stuff the neck to the top, but do not close.

CAP

Using grey:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

F/O

Ch 9, sl st in each ch to end, tie off and 'attach' to the center of the cap for a fuse.

Sew the cap with fuse to the neck as shown.


WIND UP KEY:

Ch 19. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end, sl st to form a 'ring'. F/O

Bend ring in the middle and secure into a 'figure 8 shape'


FEET:

Using gold:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around to last sc, sc in last sc. F/O

Feet are not stuffed, but just flattened out.


ASSEMBLY:

Sew feet to the bottom, using photo as a guide. Sew the wind-up key to the middle of the back.

Cut two small oval shapes for eyes from white felt. I recommend using plain paper first and pinning on the doll to make sure of size and placement. Once you have it like you want it, sew the felt eyes on.


This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.