Pichu Plush

July 08, 2009
This is the Pichu doll I just finished up for my youngest daughter who is probably the world's biggest Pichu fan. I must admit, Pichu has become one of my favorites as well.

Pichu

MATERIALS:
WW yarn in light yellow and a medium black
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Scraps of felt in black, red, pink and a very tiny bit of white
sewing threads to match the felt colors

NOTES:

I tend to prefer to join my rounds, but if you prefer continuous rounds and using stitch markers, that's just as good. Whatever is most comfortable for you.

Gauge isn't an issue, just make sure that your hook, yarn and tensions result in a fairly tight stitch, to prevent the stuffing from showing through.

I also recommend using the 'invisible decrease' when making 3D pieces like this. It's done by making the decrease stitch in the Front Loops Only of the two sc. While the stitch isn't completely invisible, it does create a much neater looking piece with few to no 'gaps' where the decrease stitches are made.

Number in ( ) at the end of each round or row, are the total number of stitches in that round or row.

Special stitches used:

BPDC (Back post double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from the back side of the work right to left around the post of the indicated stitch on a previous row. yo and pull up a loop (3 lps on hook)
yo and draw through two lps (2 lps on hook), yo and draw through two lps (1 lp on hook)

FPTC (Front post treble crochet): Yarn over twice, insert hook around the post (from the front side of your work) of the stitch indicated, yo and draw up a lp (4 lps on hook), yo and draw through two lps (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through two lps (2 lps on hook), yo and draw through two lps (1 lp on hook)

-----------------------------------


HEAD:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 9-12: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 13: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 14: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Begin stuffing about this point if you haven't done so already.

Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 18: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

F/O leaving tail, add any stuffing to finish filling out the head. Weave the tail through the last round worked and pull to close.


BODY:

Repeat rounds 1-7 of HEAD.

Rnd 8-11: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 13: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 14: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 19: sc in each sc around (18)

F/O and stuff moderately firm, leaving opening at neck as is for now.


EARS:

Make 2.

Using yellow yarn,

Rnd1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (10)

Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (14)

Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (16)

Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (18)

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc (twice) sc next 5 sc dec over next 2 sc (twice) (14)

Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Do not fasten off. Work one round of sc evenly around the edges of the flattened ear, working 2 sc together in the 'bends' on the sides and 3 sc together in the top point and both of the bottom 'corners'. Join to top of beginning sc. F/O yellow. Attach black to the 4th sc from the bottom of the ear (the end opposite the point). Ch1 and sc in same st as joining.

Sc in each sc to the center stitch of the point (the middle sc at the point where you put three sc together) in that center sc, work the following - sc, FPTC (going around the center sc in the second row below), sc - work sc in each sc to the fourth sc from the bottom on the other side. Do not ch 1, turn. Skip first sc from hook and work to the point. In the point work the following - sc, BPDC (going around the post of the FPTC from row before), sc - work sc until the next to last stitch. Sl st in last stitch. F/O weave in ends.


ARMS:

Make 2

Using yellow yarn

Rnd 1: sc 8 in magic ring

Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 3-7: sc in each sc around (10)

F/O. Stuff moderately without making them over stiff.


FEET:

Using yellow:

Rnd 1: sc 6 in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (10)

Flatten out the foot and sc thru both layers to 'close' end. Foot is not stuffed.

F/O


TAIL:

Using Black make 2 of the following:

Row 1: Ch 11. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (10)

Row 2: sc in each sc across, do not turn but ch 7.

Row 3: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to previous row, sc in next 5 sc of row 2, turn (leaving remaining sc of row 2 unworked) (11)

Row 4-7: sc in each sc across (11)

Place the two pieces together and sc evenly around the edge going through both pieces. Use 3 sc together in each outside corner, and one sc on inside corners.


COLLAR:

Using black:

Ch 22, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 7 chs. Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch of foundation ch. Ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next ch of foundation ch. Ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next ch of foundation ch. Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch of foundation ch. Sc in remaining chs of foundation ch.

ASSEMBLY:

I strongly recommend that you pin all the pieces together before sewing them, just to ensure that you have everything as you want it. Sew head to body, arms and legs in place (using picture for reference). Sew ears to top of head as shown in the picture. Sew the tail to the center bottom of the back of the body as shown. It doesn't matter to which side the tail is turned. Whichever you prefer.

Cut two dime sized circles of black felt, two quarter sized circles of pink felt and two very tiny circles of white. With red felt, cut a mouth the shape shown (it's probably easier to make a paper version first, and when you're pleased with the mouth shape and size, use that paper piece as a template to cut out the mouth from red felt.)

Sew (or glue) the face pieces on as shown, add the 'catch lights' in the eyes as shown.

Sew the collar around the neck, and sew the points of the collar down to the chest.



Pichu and pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Chain-Chomp

This is Chain-Chomp from the Mario Brothers games. I made this because my middle daughter begged me to. LOL. When writing out the pattern for it, I tried to make it as plain as possible, but I'm still learning how to write out patterns for someone other than myself to read, so bear with me. If anything is confusing, please let me know and I'll do my best to explain or change it.

If the cube portion of the pattern just isn't working for you, you can always make a cube by crocheting 6 squares that are 3 to 4 inches in size and sew them together to form a cube. I just like the look of the one piece cube better, but either is just fine.

CHAIN-CHOMP

Materials:

WW black, grey, white and red yarns
G Hook
Small amount of white felt
Thread to match the felt
Yarn Needle
Fiberfil


NOTES:

This pattern requires a little more advanced work than most of the patterns I have to date. Some of the pieces require more manipulation to fit and the general stuffing process is different. With patience though, even beginning crocheters should be able to make Chain-Chomp. I'll do my best to explain the steps as clearly and as simply as I can.

Gauge isn't really important, but your hook, yarn and natural tension should combine to create a moderately tight stitch.

I tried using continuous rounds on this pattern, but it just doesn't work out as well due to it's nature. The cube *can* be worked in continuous rounds, but I found that the cube tended to become lopsided in places because of the need for it to be even on all sides. I recommend joining rounds on this pattern, but if you're more comfortable using continuous rounds, by all means do so.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round/row.


BODY

Using black yarn, make two half domes as follows:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (36)

F/O.

Sew the two half domes together for 18 stitches, leaving the remainder of stitches unworked. This should give you a *pac-man* looking shape with a gaping 'mouth'. Set aside for now.


MOUTH:

Using red yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

F/O

Fold this piece in half, and insert into the 'mouth' of the body. Lining up the stitches, sew the mouth to the body with the 'fold' to the inside. Stuff carefully as you go, making sure that you stuff enough to round out the body, but not to overstuff, so that the mouth still remains 'folded' and inside the body of the chomp. This may require some 'easing' of the mouth piece into the body pieces. In the end, you should have a toothless 'ball with a mouth'.


TEETH:

Make 2 using white:

Row 1: Ch 21, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, DC in same ch. (Skip 2 chs, sl st, ch 3, dc together in the next ch) repeat the instructions in the ( ) to end. F/O

Sew the 'teeth strips' to the opening of the mouth as shown in the picture. Pin them first, to help decide exact placement. A little easing of the strips my be necessary to fit them.

(NOTE: Some may find that using an F hook to make the teeth will result in a better fit. You may need to 'stretch' the base of the strip a bit to fit it, but that's ok in most cases. A little experimentation never hurts!)


CHAIN:

Using gray yarn:

Ch 16. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end. Sl st the two ends together. (I also recommend using grey sewing thread and re-inforcing where the two ends meet on all the chain links)

Repeat for next link, before closing insert through last link (creating the 'chain') then sew closed and make next link. Make the chain as long or as short as you like.

CUBE:

Cube is worked in one piece. It's a little different than working a ball in rounds, the increases and decreases are different, but similar enough that it should be possible even for beginners with a little patience. I recommend joining your rounds, but if you are comfortable enough using continuous rounds, it's worth a try.

[Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.]

Using gray yarn:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4)

Rnd 2: ch 1 3 sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join. *3 sc next sc. sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21)

Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28)

Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 2 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round ( 36)

Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. *3 sc next sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3 sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 7-18: sc in each sc around joining each round with sl st to first sc of round (44)

Rnd 19: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 4 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 8 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (36)

Rnd 20: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next 3 sc. * Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (28)

You probably will need to begin stuffing cube at this point (if you haven't already), and continue as you progress. Take care to stuff so that the shape of a cube is retained with minimum bulging of the sides (some bulging is natural) See the picture for references.

Rnd 21: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc 2 sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (21)

Rnd 22: ch 1 sc same st as join, sc in next sc. *Dec3 over next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with dec3 and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (12)

Rnd 23: c1 Dec3 over next 3 sc around join with sl st to first sc of round (4).

F/O leaving tail for finishing off.

Using the blunt end of crochet hook, chopstick or eraser end of pencil, add any stuffing necessary to finish out cube shape. With yarn needle, weave the tail through the last 4 stitches of final round and pull to tighten. Tie off. Weave in end.


FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Attach chain to back of chomp and to one side of cube.

With white felt, cut two circles and with black felt cut two smaller circles. (on mine, I used a quarter for the white circles and a dime for the black ones, your circles may need to be larger or smaller, depending on your tension and yarn used, but those sizes are a good starting point) Sew the black circles to the center of the white ones as shown in the picture and then to the face of chomp.



Chain-chomp is copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (April 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

PLUSLE AND MINUN

Featured Crochet Pattern of the Day


June 29, 2009

Plusle and Minun are two of the 'helping pokemon'. They're very cute and energetic and make very sweet little dolls. The girls really enjoy playing with them :) The patterns are below and as always if you find any problems, please don't hesitate to let me know, I'll fix it as soon as possible.


PLUSLE AND MINUN

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in off-white (or a light beige), medium blue and medium red
F Hook
Scraps of felt in white, black, red and light orange or yellow
Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match felt colors
Fiberfill

NOTES:

The pattern has only one set of 'body part' instructions, because the two dolls are identical in their basic forms. The differences are in the colors and the tails (and the markings on the cheek patches) Those are all detailed as needed.

Gauge isn't very important here. Just make sure that your needle, yarn and tension combine to leave fairly tight and consistent stitches so that the fiberfill won't come through. I also recommend that you use the 'invisible decrease' (working decrease stitches in front loops only). It's not entirely invisible, but it does reduce or eliminate the gaps that regular decreases create when working in rounds.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round/row.


HEAD (make 2):

Using off white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 9-13: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 14: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 15: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 16: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Begin stuffing about this point if you haven't done so already.

Rnd 17: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 20: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving tail, add any stuffing to finish filling out the head. Weave the tail through the last round worked and pull to close.


BODY (make 2):

Using off white:

Repeat rounds 1-7 of HEAD.

Rnd 8-11: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 13-14: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 16-17: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 19: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 21: sc in each sc around (18)

F/O and stuff moderately firm, leaving opening at neck as is for now.


ARMS (make 4):

Begin with the med red for 2 arms, and med blue for 2 arms:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around, change to off-white in last or joining sc (12)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14)

Rnd 7-10: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 11: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (12)

Beginning shoulder:

Rnd 13: sc in 6 sc, turn (remaining stitches are left unworked) Do not ch 1. (6)

Rnd 14: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across, turn. Do not ch 1. (5)

Rnd 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across, turn. Do not ch 1. (4)

F/O Stuff moderately firm. Do not close opening


LEGS (make 4):

Using off-white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around (15)

Begin hip:

Row 9: sc in next 7 sc. Turn (leave remaining stitches unworked) Do not ch 1. (7)

Row 10: dec over the first 2 sc, sc in remaining stitches across, turn. Do not ch 1. (6)

Row 11: dec over the first 2 sc, sc in remaining stitches across (5)

F/O. Stuff moderately firm. Do not close opening.


EARS (make 4):

Begin with med red for 2 ears, and med blue for 2 ears:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 5-15: sc in each sc around (15)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, continue stuffing as needed.

Rnd 16: dec over next 2 sc around, sc in last sc changing to off-w1ite in last sc (or joining st) (8)

Rnd 17-19: sc in each sc around (8)

F/O


TAILS:

PLUSLE:

Using med red make 4 cross pieces:

Row 1: Ch 12. Sc in second ch from hook, and each ch across (11)

Row 2-3: sc in each sc across (11)

F/O

Cross two of the strips into a plus sign and sew together. Take both cross pieces and sew together stuffing lightly where needed (see picture for reference).

Using off-white:

Rnd 1: Ch 8, join to make a ring and sc in each chain around. (8)

Rnd 2-4: sc in each sc around (8)

F/O sew tube to center of one side of the cross and stuff moderately. Do not close the open end.


MINUN:

Using med blue:

Row 1: Ch 12, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (11)

Row 2-6: sc in each ch across (11)

F/O Fold in half lengthwise and sew closed, stuffing as you sew.

Using off-white, make another tube as with the tail for Plusle, sew to the center of one side of the stuffed strip and stuff moderately. Do not close the open end.

CHEEK PATCHES:

Make 2 in med red and 2 in med blue:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)


ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend that you pin all the pieces together before sewing. The ears should tilt slightly backwards. While sewing on the arms and legs, lightly stuff the 'shoulder' and 'hip' flaps as you sew. Cut a minus sign and a plus sign from a piece of white felt . The signs should fit just inside the ridge of the last round of the cheek patch. Sew cheek patchs onto face using photo for placement. Add small ovals for eyes, with tiny circles of white felt added to the ovals at the 10 o'clock position for catchlights. After sewing on the mouth and eyes, sew on a nose by taking a few small whip stitches just above the mouth. For Minun, embroider a mouth as shown and then add the nose.



Plusle, Minun and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.