Emolga Plush

Well it took me forever to get this pattern typed out and posted here....  too much going on and not nearly enough 'spare' time LOL.

As always,  I'm not entirely happy with the face  (I always wish I could do the faces better).  The pictures don't show the tail structure,  something happened to the camera and the other pics we took of the back got corrupted,  but I'll get the kids to get some better pics of the back and tail and add them here ASAP.

The pattern is a little different when it comes to the 'wings'  it's not an 'exact' pattern,  it's just a set of basic instructions --  because every Emolga is going to need a slightly different size wing to fit properly.  Please read through that part completely before beginning so that you'll have a pretty good idea of how it should work.

I'm REALLY hoping to get another doll made soon,  now that the taxes are behind us (whew),  my daughter's birthday will be past us as well....and garden planting season is winding down a bit....I HOPE to have more of my time for myself  LOL

As usual,  if you find anything wrong in the pattern,  or just have a question,  please feel free to either post here, or send me a quick email at WolfDreamerOTH (at) gmail.com.

Materials:

WW Yarn in white, black and yellow

Size 6 hook

Fiberfill

Small scraps of felt in black (eyes), white (ear inset and eyes) and yellow (cheek patches)

NOTES:

Gauge is not important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook size and individual tension result in a fairly firm fabric.

Some of the parts (wing span) may require adjustment on your part. Since everyone crochets slightly different tension and this, combined with different brands of yarn and stuffing may result in you needing to shorthen or lengthen the wing to fit your doll properly.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of the instructions for each round or row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round or row (to give you something against which to check your work for accuracy)

BODY:

(using white yarn)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: *sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 4: *sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (32)

Rnd 5: *sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (40)

Rnd 6: *sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 7: *sc in the next 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc ; repeat from * around (56)

Rnd 8-16: sc in each sc around (56)

Rnd 17: *sc in next 12 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (52)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (52)

Rnd 19: *sc in next 11 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (48)

(if you haven't begun stuffing yet, now is a good time to begin. Stuff body firmly and shape while stuffing. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress)

Rnd 21: *sc in next 10 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (44)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (44)

Rnd 23: *sc in next 9 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (40)

Rnd 24: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 25: *sc in next 8 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 26: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 27: *sc in next 5 sc, decrease (dec) over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (30)

Fasten off (F/O) your yarn, weave in your end. Add a little extra stuffing at the neck opening. You want some stuffing 'bulging' out of the opening, so that when you place the head on the neck opening it will create a firm join and will be less likely to 'flop' at the neck.

HEAD:

Beginning with white yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 7: *sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (42)

Rnd 8: *sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 9: *sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around, change to black yarn in last stitch of round (54)

Rnd 11-18: sc in each sc around (54)

Rnd 19: *sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 20: *sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (42)

(begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, stuff firmly and shape as you stuff. Continue to stuff and shape as you progress)

Rnd 21: *sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 22: *sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 23: *sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 22: *sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 21: *sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc; repeat from * around (12)

F/O. Add any stuffing that may be needed to finish shaping the head. Weave the tail through the last round of sc, tug up gently to close the opening completely. Secure the yarn and weave in your ends.

Hand/Arms (make 2)

Rnd 1: Ch 6. Sc in second sc from hook and in each sc across (you should have 5 sc at this point), now turn your work so that the bottom of the chain is now facing up and sc in the 'free' loop of each chain across. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc . (10 sc in an 'elongated' round)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 3: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 8: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc around.

F/O and stuff arm evenly and firmly. Weave in end.

Hand:

On the closed end of the arm (at rnd 1) attach your yarn to one corner of the end. Chain 2. *hdc, chain 1, sc in next place on the 'hand' part of arm; repeat from * twice more – placing your final sc on the 'edge' of the hand portion of the arm (so that the fingers are 'evenly' spaced across)

F/O and weave in end

FEET:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3-8: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O. Feet are flattened and generally don't need any stuffing (if you wish to have slighter 'rounder' shaped feet, you can VERY lightly stuff the feet before you add them to the body portion of the doll.

WINGS:

Here's where it gets a little fussy. LOL. You will very likely need to 'judge' the size/length of this piece so that it will fit your Emolga properly. I'm giving you 'general' instructions here for this part, but you will need to periodically hold the piece up next to the doll (with arms/feet/head pinned securely in place) to make sure it will fit correctly. BE SURE to write down how many sc across you end up using, and how many rows you crochet down and how many decrease rows you make so that your yellow side can be made the same.

Begin with black yarn. Chain approx 40 (check up against your doll to ensure that this chain reaches easily from fingertip to fingertip. If you need, add more chains or remove some to get the fit right)

Sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn and work one more row evenly. At this point, check the length up against the doll again for fit (the first few rows can slightly alter the length of your piece so this is just a safety check to prevent you from doing much more work before you might need to start again to get the fit right)

Once you're happy with the length of this piece, continue working back and forth evenly until the piece when placed at the based of the head and across the arms, is nearly 1 and a half inches from the bottom of the body portion of the doll.

On next row, dec over next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc again and then sc evenly across to last 4 sc. Dec twice and turn.

(Don't forget to make notes about how many rows/decrease rows etc you need for the next part)

Repeat that row about twice more (you may need to add another to reach the bottom of the body).

F/O and weave in your ends.

Using the yellow yarn, make another 'wing' just like the first one. Sew the two pieces together as shown (I used a light yellow sewing thread and sewing needle to prevent too much bulking at the edges and make the seam less noticeable.)

EARS:

(make 2 in black:)

Row 1: chain 5, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (4)

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (6)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (8)

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (10)

Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (12)

Row 6-14: sc in each sc across; turn

Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc; turn (10)

Row 16: sc in each sc across (10)

Row 17: repeat row 15 (8)

Row 18: repeat row 16 (8)

(make 2 in yellow:)

Row 1: chain 4, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across, turn (3)

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (5)

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (7)

Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc; turn (9)

Row 5-14: sc in each sc across; turn

Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc; turn (7)

Row 16: sc in each sc across (7)

Row 17: repeat row 15 (5)

Row 18: repeat row 16 (5)

F/O and weave in ends.

Place a yellow ear part and a black ear part together (the black will be slightly larger than the yellow. Attach Black yarn to one bottom end (the flatter end) and begin to sc evenly around the ear (going through both the black and yellow pieces) you may need to work 2 sc in each sc when you reach the 'top' rounded edge to keep the shape as you like. A little bit of 'turn' to the inside is fine, and in fact I kinda liked that, it seemed more natural.

Continue scing evenly to bottom of ear (don't sc across the bottom, leave it 'open' because it makes sewing the ears onto the head much easier).

Get a piece of scrap paper and cut out shapes for the white part (ear inset). Place the paper against the insde of the ear and trim if necessary to make sure the shape/size is as you want it. Using that paper piece as a template, cut out two white pieces of felt and carefully sew to the inside of the ear (using white sewing thread and needle)

TAIL:

(make 2 using black)

Row 1: chain 21, sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each remaining chain across; turn (20)

Row 2: sc in each chain across (20)

Row 3: sc in each of next 12 sc; turn, leaving remaining sc unworked)

Row 4: sc in each sc across, at end of row, chain 5,

Row 5: sc in 2^nd chain from hook, and in each remaining chain and in each of the 12 sc. ; turn (16)

Row 6: slip stitch across first 5 sc. Chain 1, sc in same sc as last slip stitch and each sc to end of row; turn

Row 7: sc in each sc to end of row, turn

Row 8: sc in each sc to end of row, chain 5

Row 9: sc in 2^nd chain from hook, and in each remaining chain and in each of the row.

F/O and weave in ends. Place the two pieces together (matching them up as well as possible) and using sewing thread and needle, sew the two pieces together. At the point where the tail will 'meet' the body, either sc a couple of rounds of yellow. You can also use a small piece of yellow felt for the end of the tail.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all the pieces together and make sure you're happy with the placement/size/ etc of the various parts.

Sew the parts together securely. Sew the 'wings' across the back from fingertip to fingertip and just at the 'base' of the back of the head. Tack the 'wings' to the bottom center of the body as well.

Sew feet, ears and tail on as desired.

Cut templates for eyes from scrap paper, then when you're pleased with the size/shape of the eye, use the paper template to cut out your felt pieces for the eyes. Cut circles for the 'cheek patches' from yellow felt.

Cut 'points' from black for the brow patches on the face.

After pinning brow patches, eyes and cheek patches in place so that you're satisfied with them, carefully sew in place. Then embroider the nose/mouth.

Emolga and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (April 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not reprint, sell or distribute the pattern; or sell items made from this pattern.  

Azumarill

I made this doll right now for several reasons.  First off,  it's coming up to Easter,  and what more perfect of a pokemon for the Easter Baskets?  Part Easter Egg,  part Bunny --  and in it's shiny form,  it's a Yellow-Gold color - so both forms are perfect.   Won't he be adorable nestled down in that obnoxious fake grass snuggled up next to the Jelly-Bellies and the little yellow marshmallow peeps?

The other reason I wanted to make this one,  is that I felt like making a slightly easier pattern.  The last pattern  (Michaelangelo) was fairly complex - and I wanted a pattern that would be quick enough to make up a few for the kids' easter baskets :D

As always,  if you find any typos, mistakes or just get confused,  give me a holler....  I'll get right on it  :D

MATERIALS:


WW yarn in blue, white and small amount of black (for tail)
Fiberfill
Small bits of felt for eyes, mouth, ear insets and spots
G Hook
Tapestry/Yarn Needle
Sewing thread to match yarn and felt pieces

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important here,  but your choice of hook and yarn should result in a tight stitch that won't allow the fill to show through.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

BODY:

Beginning with white yarn:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6-11:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 12:  working in front loops only: sl st in next sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in next sc, hdc in next sc, *sl st in each of next 2 sc,  hdc in next sc,  dc in next sc,  hdc in next sc*  repeat from * to * around to final stitch,  sl st in last sc of round.   F/O white.  (the 'waves' you've created may want to curve back to the front for now,  that's ok.  (40)
Rnd 13:  If you look just behind the round you just worked,  you'll notice a 'line' of free loops  (the back loop that was not worked through).   Attach your blue yarn to one of these loops and sc in the same loop.  Sc in each remaining loop around (40)
Rnd 14-16:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 17:  sc in each of next 6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Begin stuffing about this point if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly without over stuffing.  Shape the body as you stuff - continue stuffing and shaping as you progress.
Rnd 19:  sc in each of next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 21:  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (25)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around  (25)
Rnd 23:  sc in each of next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (20)
Rnd 25:  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (15)
Rnd 26:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
F/O.  Add any more stuffing needed to finish the shaping of the body.  It should be a nice 'egg' shape.   Weave the tail through the final round and tug to close opening.  Secure the yarn well and weave in end.   Using white sewing thread and sewing needle,  carefully sew the 'waves'  that are in front up to the blue section so that they're even and create the 'wave' effect desired around.  (see picture for help)

FEET:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-4:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 5:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (8)
Rnd 6-7:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Flatten the foot  (foot is not stuffed) - sc through all layers across  (4 sc)
F/O.  Weave in ends

ARMS:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2-7:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Flatten  (stuffing is not necessary for the arms).  Sc through all layers across (3sc)

EARS:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-7:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (11)
Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (11)
Rnd 10:   Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (10)
Rnd 11:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 12:   Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around  (9)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 14:  Dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc around   (8)
Rnd 15:  sc in each sc around  (8)
Flatten ears.   Fasten off.  (Ears aren't stuffed).    Cut two pieces of pink felt to fit just 'inside' the ears (see photo for reference).  Pin in place and using sewing thread and needle  (or fabric glue)  sew or glue securely in place.

TAIL:

Using black yarn,  chain 34  (or any multiple of 11 + 1)   Sc in first chain from hook and next 3 chains.  * 3 sc in next chain,  sc in next 4 chains,  dec over next 2 chains,  sc in next 3 chains *  repeat * to * to end  (where exactly you end in the sequence doesn't matter much).   F/O and sew to bottom back of doll using one of the tails remaining.  Hide excess yarns  inside doll using crochet hook to pull the excess yarns inside of the doll.

BALL of TAIL:

Using blue:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Begin stuffing here.  Shape as you go,  continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the shape.  Just before you tug up the opening,  insert the other end of the tail,  pull tails to close opening and using yarn needle,  secure the opening and end of tail.  Weave in the loose end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Feet are sew to bottom of body as shown in photos.  Arms are sewn to the side of body just above the 'wave' of the white section.

Ears are sewn to top of head as shown.   Face details are made by cutting out small ovals for eyes,  and the mouth shape from felt and gluing or sewing them on.  (tiny white bits of felt for the catchlights in the eyes are easiest glued where possible  a small dot of white fabric paint also works)

Cut various sized circles for the 'dots' across the body.  I didn't do the circles around the back of mine,  but you can if you like.   I'm sure in 'pokemon nature'  no two azumarill's dots are exactly the same :D


Azumarill and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.


This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (April 2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Lugia Plushie

Ok y'all.  Here he is.  Lugia.

I'm sorry that my pics are always crummy,  but hey,  I'm not a photographer  LOL and I'm stuck with really old cameras that don't work unless they feel like it.

This doll ain't for the faint of heart.   It's better suited to experienced crocheters with a few serious dolls under their belts!   

He's larger than all the other pokemon I've made in the past and a little more difficult as well.   

I try to explain everything as well as I can in the pattern instructions,  just take it one step at a time and I'll try to help you as much as I can...  just post if you have any questions!   I've been sick all week,  and typing this wasn't easy while feeling so badly,  so if you find anything that's wrong, out of place or just plain confusing - that's probably why - and let me know I'll fix it!

Ok guys,  here goes.... and good luck! :D

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in white (at least a full skein) medium blue and dark blue

G hook

Fiberfill

Embroidery thread

Small pieces of felt in white and black

Sewing thread to match colors

Yarn Needle

Heavy Gauge wire for wings (optional)

NOTES:

Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual tension result in a firm consistent stitch that won't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

Lugia is one of the pokemon whose original 2-D design is not particularly well suited to 'plushie' form. He will be unbalanced. This doll is probably best designed to be suspended with fishing line or other 'invisible' material from a shelf or ceiling as opposed to 'sitting'. You can try weighing down his backside, but the wing structure will still be a nightmare. Some may be able to construct a wire frame for the inside of the wings that will help hold them out, but the sheer weight of the wings is still going to pull heavily on the sides of the body causing it to deform over time.

Typically, I join my rounds when making dolls. If you're more comfortable with using continuous rounds, by all means go ahead, however, in this particular doll you may have some issues with the continuous rounds when working the 'wings'. If at all possible, you should probably join your rounds at least when crocheting the wings in this pattern.

Be prepared to fiddle and fuss a bit with constructing this doll. As I said, it's not an easy one to make, but it DOES work. This pattern isn't well suited for a toy that will be 'played with'... it's best used for display purposes only.

Lugia's HEAD/BODY and TAIL are all crocheted as a single unit.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc (12)

Rnd 4: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 3 sc in last sc (18)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 6: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16 sc, 3 sc in last sc (22)

Rnd 7: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 10 sc (24)

Rnd 8-12: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Stuff head at this point. Stuff firmly and shape while stuffing (this is your only chance to shape the head, so make sure you're happy with it before going on). Continue stuffing neck, body and tail as you progress through the pattern, just make sure that you have the shape you want as you stuff. The neck needs careful attention, as it needs to be stuffed quite firmly (particularly where it joins the head and the body) in order to keep it from 'lolling' later on.

Rnd 14-16: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15)

Rnd 18-26: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 27: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 29: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 31: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 32: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 33: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 35: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 36: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 37: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 38: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 39: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 40-50: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 51: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 52: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 53: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 54: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 55: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 56: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 57: sc in next 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, dec over last 2 sc (28)

Rnd 58: sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 59: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, dec over last 2 sc (26)

Rnd 60: sc in each sc around (26)

Rnd 61: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc, dec over last 2 sc (24)

Rnd 62: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 63: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (22)

Rnd 64: sc in each sc around (22)

Rnd 65: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc, dec over last 2 sc (20)

Rnd 66: sc in each sc around (20)

Rnd 67: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc, dec over last 2 sc (18)

Rnd 68: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 69: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc (16)

Rnd 70: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 71: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14)

Rnd 72: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 73: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)

Rnd 74: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 75: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)

Rnd 76: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 77: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

Rnd 78: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 79: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)

Rnd 80: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 81: dec over next 2 sc around (3)

HEAD CREST:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)

Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18)

F/O and weave in ends.

You can add a tiny bit of stuffing here if you wish to create more of a rounded crest for the head,

Or you can flatten the crest and pin in place to back of head in position desired (use photos for help with placement)

WINGS (make2):

(If you wish to add a wire frame to the wings, you will need to plan that frame to be introduced before crocheting the fingers. I recommend a wire frame that will go from wing tip to wing tip, through the 'body' of the doll. Otherwise, you won't have the needed strength to hold up these heavier wings. If you're going to be suspending the doll in the air, then the wire frame can be omitted, because you can use the strings as a way to 'position' your wings as if in flight)

Rnd 1: Chain 7. Sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn work and working down the 'unused' side of the foundation chain, sc in the same chain as the last sc of other side, and each remaining chain across. Join to first sc with slip stitch. (12 sc)

Rnd 2-6: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 9: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 11: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 15: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 19: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (32)

Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 23: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 24-26: sc in each sc around (40)

Do not fasten off.

Begin first 'finger':

Flatten wing 'end' – matching up your sc stitches. You will be working through only one 'side' at a time, but using both sides for each finger.

Rnd 1: sc in next 5 sc. Turn work so that other side is now facing you, sc in next 5 sc of the other side of the wing (what was the last 5 sc of the previous round) and join with slip stitch to first sc of 'finger'

(10 sc)

Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around, joining each round with slip stitch in first sc around (10)

Flatten end of 'finger'. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.

F/O. Weave in ends.

Remaining Fingers:

Attach yarn to first stitch immediately to 'left' of finger just completed. Sc in same stitch as joining and complete same as rounds 1-8 of first finger.

For 'thumb'.

Rnd 1: Chain 6. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn and working down other side of foundation, sc in each chain across. Sl St to first sc of round (10)

Rnd 2-10: sc in each sc around (10)

Flatten end of thumb. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.

F/O. Weave in ends.

Pin and sew thumb to wing on underside, just below and between first and second finger.

Wings were not stuffed.

Wings are attached to side of body near base of neck as shown. Just pin for now.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 6: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (27)

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (27)

Rnd 10: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 11: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)

Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (12)

Stuff leg moderately. Leave opening. F/O weave in ends.

FOOT (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Stuff foot moderately, but not too much. Just enough to allow it to hold the shape you desire. Using white thread, create the 'toes' by taking three large whipstitches over the 'ends' of the feet. Go back and do the same with black thread to create the 'toes'.

Sew the foot to end of leg as shown.

BELLY DECORATION:

Using medium blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Begin points:

Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, turn (8)

Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)

Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (4)

Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc, turn (2)

Row 5: dec over 2 sc (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to first stitch to immediate left of point just made, sc in same stitch as joining and complete second point same as for first:

Attach yarn to any stitch along side of plate. Sc in same stitch as joining, and evenly around outside – using three sc in the tip of each 'point'. Join with sl st to top of first sc made.

F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to body over chest/stomach area.

PLATES ALONG BACK (make 10):

Using darker blue:

Chain 7. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (6)

Rows 2&3: sc in each sc across (6)

F/O and weave in ends.

SPIKES ON TAIL:

Using darker blue:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (5)

Rnd 4: sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 5: sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (7)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (7)

F/O and stuff very lightly. Pin to tail as shown.

EYE FEATHER (make 2):

Chain 11. Slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip stitch in last chain. Turn work and working back up the other side of the foundation chain: slip stitch in same ch as last slip stitch, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in next 2, slip stitch in last.

F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to head as shown in photos.

ASSEMBLY:

All parts need to be pinned to the doll's body before sewing any on. With a doll this large, it's really important you get everything just the way you want it :D

Figuring out the part placement isn't very hard (especially after what you've been through already LOL), just refer to the photos and get everything the way you want ! Then you can sew it all down.

Eyes are cut from pieces of felt in the shapes shown. Mouth is embroidered on last.

Lugia and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Snorlax Plushie

Well,  after many requests,  I finally made Snorlax.  (I know he's not blue,  but in my fire-red game he's a deep olive green, and I didn't have the right blue for him  LOL).  You of course,  can make him any color you like  :D

I posted only this one picture of him,  because frankly,  that's pretty much everything there is.  The pattern is pretty straightforward,  with maybe a little fancy footwork on the face part,  but it's very easy really.

I made mine in the sitting position because he fits on the shelf better that way (and I couldn't see his little face if he was laying down up there).   But of course,  you can make him in any position that pleases you.  As usual I'm not really happy with his face,  but faces have always been the bane of existence.  I know y'all will do better on the face than I did  :D

As always,  if you have any trouble, have a question or find a problem in the pattern,  let me know and I'll get back to you ASAP.

Snorlax

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in your main color (green in example) and lighter color (tan in example) and a few yards of white for claws and 'toenails'

G hook

Fiberfill

Needle and thread to match yarn colors

Small bits of med brown felt (or yarn of similar color)

small amount of black embroidery thread

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important as long as your choice of yarn, hook and your individual tension result in a consistently firm stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

I join my rounds, but if you're most comfortable working in continuous rounds, then that's fine too.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

BODY:

Begin with lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around, change to main color in last sc of round (64)

Rnd 9-17: sc in each sc around (64)

Rnd 18: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56)

Rnd 19: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 20: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 21: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)

Rnd 24: dec over next 2 sc around (8)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping. Weave tail through final round and tug gently to close. Secure and weave in end.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7-14: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (24)

F/O. Do not close neck opening. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping.

EARS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

FACE INSET:

Using lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 8 sc,   2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 6 sc (40)

First point:

Sc in next 6 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)

Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)

Decrease over all three sc in row (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Second point:

Attach yarn to next sc next to first point. Ch 1. sc in same stitch as joining, sc in next 5 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)

Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)

Decrease over all three sc in row (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to any sc (except either of the 'points). Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. Sc evenly around, putting 3 sc in each of the 'points'. Join to first sc with slip stitch. F/O.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 11-13: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 15-16: sc in each sc around. (12)

Stuff moderately firmly while shaping.

Rnd 17: Flatten end. Working through all layers, sc across end. (6)

F/O and weave in end.

CLAWS:

(using white)

Attach yarn between rows 2 and 3 of arm. Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch between rows 1 and 2.

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in nearest side of center of beginning rnd (this may require a little manipulation).

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch on other side of center of beginning rnd. (again, may require some manipulation.)

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 1 and 2.

Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 2 and 3.

F/O and weave in ends.

(Alternately, you can cut a piece of white felt in a strip with five small points and sew to end of arm)

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, sc in last 12 sc (40)

Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 10: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 7 more times, for a total of 8 decreases) sc in last 12 sc (32)

Rnd 11: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around, change to main color in last sc of round. (16)

Rnd 13: working in front loops only for this round, sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (16)

F/O and weave in end. Stuff foot moderately firm while shaping. Stuff leg moderately.

TOENAILS (make 6):

Using white:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

F/O. Trim ends to about 2 inches or so and stuff them inside the 'nail'. This is probably all the stuffing you'll need for these.

Sew three toenails on the top side of each foot (as shown). Cut a circle of the medium brown felt and sew to the center of the foot (as shown).

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before you sew them on. This gives you the opportunity to 'play' with positioning, and make small adjustments.

Face inset is sewn to head as shown. Ears are sewn to top of head placed as shown. Head is sewn to body (if making him in a sitting position, you may wish to consider having his head tilt down and to the side as if he'd just dozed off).

Arms are sewn to the sides of the body near where the head is sewn on.

Legs are sewn to body either in sitting position or in sleeping position.

Facial features are simply embroidered with black thread. Two tiny triangles are the 'fangs'.

Snorlax and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Charmander Plushie

Ok,  well.  After many requests I finally managed to get around to making a Charmander.  I know the pictures are terrible,  but hey  I'm not a photographer and neither my camera OR the weather are cooperating at the moment.    So it's inside photos for now y'all...  I'll try to get some other pics soon.

This pattern has two different 'versions'.   The one you see in the pictures,  with the open mouth,  and also instructions for the closed mouth  (which is a bit easier).   Read all the way through the pattern before starting,  so that you'll know which one you're going to do  :D

Should you find any problems or typos,  please let me know and I'll fix it as quickly as possible :D   As always,  if you have any questions,  feel free to ask I'll get back with ya as soon as I can!

Charmander

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in pumpkin (or similar color) and tan/natural
G hook
Fiberfill
Felt scraps in black, blue, white, yellow, red and orange
Sewing needle and thread in colors close to the felt colors
Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important on this project, as long as your choice of yarn and hook and your individual tension result in an even, firm stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

There are two ways to make this doll,  either with the open mouth (as shown)  or with a 'closed' mouth where you would add embroidered mouth features.  I'll include instructions for both types so that you can do the style you prefer.

HEAD/BODY:
(this is for the open mouth version of the head and body,  if you would prefer to make the 'closed mouth' version  (not shown in pictures)  begin with the alternate head and body below)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 11 sc,  Working in Front Loops only - 2 sc in each of next 10 sc,  Working now through both loops again -  sc in last 11 sc  (42)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 14:  sc in each of next 17 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat dec 3 more times,  for a total of 4 decreases) sc in each of last 17 sc of the round  (38)
Rnd 15:  sc in each of next 13 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (repeat dec 5 more times,  for a total of 6 decreases)  sc in each of last 13 sc of the round  (32)
Rnd 16:  sc in each next 10 sc,   chain 10,  skip next 12 sc,  sc in each of last 10 sc of the round  (20 sc, 10 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (when you reach the chains,  treat them exactly as you would sc stitches and continue the sc 3, dec) to end of round  (24)
Begin stuffing head at this point.  Stuff to 'nose' and mouth opening,  then continue stuffing as you progress.  Stuff firmly,  shaping nose and head/neck/body as you go.
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 22-24:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 25:  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (39)
Rnd 26-34:  sc in each sc around  (39)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 36:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 37:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 38:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 39:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the body shape.  Weave tail through final round and tug to close the hole. 

LOWER JAW:

Row 1:  Ch 9,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (8)
Row 2:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Row 4:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
Row 5:  dec over next 2 sc,  repeat decrease  (2)
F/O.

Attach yarn to a corner of Row 1.  Sc evenly around the sides and around the front to the opposite corner of Row1. 

F/O.   Weave in loose ends.  Cut a piece of red felt to fit just inside the lower jaw area,  and one to fit the 'upper' part of the mouth.   Using sewing thread and needle,  sew the felt to both parts.   If desired,  cut a small semi-oval of pink felt for the tongue and sew to the middle of the lower jaw.  Pin the lower jaw to the opening of the 'mouth' on the head/body piece.  Adjust to desired position.  Sew securely in position across the outside along the neck,  and also sew together the two pieces of felt inside the back of the mouth.  This might require some 'patience'  and little maneuvering  but take your time and recheck your positioning frequently while sewing to make sure you're maintaining the position you want.

If needed,  add more stuffing to shape out the mouth area.  Don't overstuff though,  or the inside of the mouth will pucker and bulge out.

Add two very tiny pieces of white felt for 'teeth' on upper and lower jaws.


ALTERNATE HEAD/BODY:
For the 'closed mouth' option:

Rnd 1-15:  same as for head/body above.
Rnd 16:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 5 more times for a total of six decreases)  sc in each of remaining 10 sc of the round  (26)
Rnd 17:  sc in each of next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat once more for a total of two decreases)  sc in each of remaining 11 sc of round  (24)
Rnd 18-40:  same as for head/body above.
Remember when stuffing to shape head/neck area while stuffing.  Don't make a 'lower jaw' for this version of the doll.


HANDS/ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  10 sc in magic ring  (10)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round -  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 3-6:  working again in both loops – sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around.  (12)
F/O.  Stuff arm moderately. 

FINGERS/CLAWS:

Attach yarn to one of the 'free loops' from round 2 of arm.  Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. 
F/O.   Weave in loose ends.

LEGS / FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Stuff * very * lightly at this point.  You only need enough stuffing to give the leg a little 'puff'.  You'll need for one side of the leg to be flat against the body,  so don't over-stuff as this will make the job of attaching the leg to the body difficult.
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Weave in ends. 

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Do not stuff.  Weave tail through final round of foot and tug to close.  Weave in ends.

TOES:

Method 1:
Attach white yarn between round 2 and 3 of foot.  Ch 3.  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2,  Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2 on the other side of center,   Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 2 and 3.  F/O,  weave in ends.

Method 2:
Cut the toe shapes from white felt and sew or glue to front of foot in position desired.

BELLY SPOT:
Using tan

While most of the doll can be made using either the joining method of rounds,  or the continuous method of making rounds,  this particular piece will not work well with continuous rounds.  It's highly recommended that you join each round with a slip stitch in the top of the first sc of that round,  Ch 1 and begin the new round in the same stitch as the joining slip stitch.

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring,  join  (8)
Rnd 2:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join (16)
Rnd 3:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in last sc,   join (24)
Rnd 4:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (32)
Rnd 5:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in last sc,  join  (44)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Pin to front of body centered evenly between arms and legs as shown.

TAIL:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around to last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Rnd 3-20:  repeat rnd 2 (increasing each round by one stitch)   (25)
Rnd 21:  sc in each sc around.
F/O and stuff tail moderately firm.

TAIL STRIPE:
Using tan:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  sc in second ch from hook  (1)
Row 2:  2 sc in sc  (2)
Row 3-4:  sc in each sc across (2)
Row 5:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 6-7:  sc in each sc across (3)
Row 8:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 9-10:   sc in each sc across  (4)
Row 11:  sc in first 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 12-13:   sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 14:  sc in first 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 15-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in first 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 18-19:  sc in each sc across (7)
Row 20:  sc in first 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Row 21-22:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 23:  sc in first 7 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (9)
Row 24-30:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 31:  sc in first 7 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Row 32:  sc in first 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (7)
Row 33:  sc in first 5 sc,  dec over last 2 sc, (6)
Row 34-38:  sc in each sc across  (6)

You may need to adjust the number of rows between 34-38  (either add or subtract)  to get your stripe to fit from tip of tail to just past the center of the bottom of the body.  It is recommended that you first pin and sew all the other body parts before making the tail stripe,  so that you'll have a definite length that will be easier to work with.

F/O and stuff tail moderately firm. 

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Arms are flattened on the open end and attached to the upper body as shown.  Pin them first so that you can be sure of the placement and position before sewing.

The Feet are sewn to bottom of leg as shown,  and the legs are attached to the lower body as shown.  Pin first to be sure of placement and position before sewing.

Tail is sewn to back of lower body.  Belly plate is sewing to center of front of body between arms and legs as shown.   Tail stripe is sewn to the underside of the tail,  with point at the tip of the tail,  and larger end just meeting up with the belly plate at the bottom of the lower body.

Tail flames are just different sizes of 'flame shapes'  cut from red, orange and yellow felt... placed together at slightly different angles and sewn together at the base of the flames,  then sewn to the top of the tip of the tail.  (see pics for help)

Eyes are cut from white felt,  then black,  with blue 'scoops' at the bottom.   Small white ovals create the 'catch lights' at the upper end of the eye  (it really helps to find some good pictures online,  and see how the eyes are done)

Eyebrow and nostrils are simply straight stitches with either black or dark brown yarn placed as shown  (here again,  a good picture from online will be very helpful with the placement of these features).  If you're making the closed mouth version,  you may wish to look again at some pictures to determine if you want to embroider a mouth and if you do,  what design to use. 

Charmander  and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.