All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D

All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

JIGGLYPUFF with pattern


This is the Jigglypuff I made for the kids. I ended up using a virgin wool (cause it's the only pink color I had) and I don't like making 3D pieces in wool because it's inconsistent and a bit stretchy to work with. I'll have to remake one at some point in good acrylic yarn. I thought about making the microphone, but I was too tired ... I'll probably do that next time.

As usual, if anything isn't right, or confusing, let me know and I'll fix it as soon as I can.

So... here's the pattern for Jigglypuff :)


JIGGLYPUFF

Materials:
WW yarn in a soft pink or light rose
Fiberfill
Scraps of black, white, blue and red felt
Sewing threads to match the felt colors
Sewing needle
Yarn needle
Size F hook

NOTES:
I tend to prefer to join my rounds when I work, but if you prefer to use continuous rounds and stitch markers, that's also good. Whatever is most comfortable for you.

Gauge isn't really important, as long as the hook, yarn and your tension result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing doesn't show thru.

The numbers in ( ) at the end of each row or round is the total number of stitches that should be in that row or round.


BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54)

Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)

Rnd 11-19: sc in each sc around (60)

Rnd 20: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (54)

Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 22: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 23: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 24: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 25: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Being stuffing at this point and continue as you go along.

Rnd 26: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 27: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 28: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving tail for closing. Add any more stuff needed to create a nice ball shape. Weave tail through the last round worked and pull to close.


ARMS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2-3: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 5-7: Sc in each sc around (9)

F/O


FEET:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 11: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O (feet are not stuffed, but flattened out)


CURL:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 9: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 11: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 12: repeat rnd 10 (12)

Begin 'top' of curl:

Row 13: sc in next 7 sc, leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn. (7)

Row 14: sc in each sc across (7)

Row 15: skip first sc, sc in remaining sc across (6)

Row 16: skip first sc, sc in remaining sc across (5)

F/O


EARS:

Make 4:

Row 1: ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch. In next ch work hdc, ch 1, hdc. Sc in last 2 ch.

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc up to the ch 1, work sc, ch 1, sc in the ch 1 space. Sc in each sc to last st, 2 sc in last stitch.

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc up to the ch1 sp. work sc, ch 1, sc in the ch 1 sp. Sc in each sc to last st, 2 sc in last stitch.

Place two of the ear pieces together and sc around through all layers evenly.

Cut a piece of black felt to fit inside the ear as shown in the picture leaving the outer row of sc visible. Sew in place using black sewing thread.

EYES:

Cut two white circles about one and 1/2 inches in diameter, 2 blue circles about 1/4 inch smaller. Sew together as shown in picture. Cut tiny white circles and sew (or glue) in place at the 10 o'clock position of the blue circles (see picture for help).

ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all pieces in place before sewing to allow you to make small adjustments. When you're pleased with the positions, sew all in place. The curl is very lightly stuffed and sewn on with the 'top' part of the curl facing up, and lightly stuffed as you sew it on. Curl the small end around as shown and sew in place. Arms are lightly stuffed and sewn slightly to the front. Feet are flattened and sewn in place on the bottom. Ears are slightly curved to the front and sewn on as shown.

Cut a small piece of the red felt in a mouth shape and sew in place.


JigglyPuff and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Friday, March 27, 2009

POLIWHIRL WITH PATTERN


Despite the fact I know his swirl is backwards, here's my version of Poliwhirl. This is one of the dolls the kids fought over, so I had to make several LOL. I never did get that swirl to go in the right direction (clock-wise) .... I guess Im 'swirl' challenged! :)

POLIWHIRL

Materials
WW weight yarn in Blue (I used RHSS Windsor Blue) and White
Size G Crochet hook
Small amount of black ww yarn
Fiber Fill
Yarn needle

NOTES:

Guage isn't important here. Just ensure that hook and yarn weight plus your tension result in even, moderately tight stitches.

I tend to prefer to join rounds, you may prefer using continuous rounds with stitchmarkers. Either way is fine. Use whichever method is most comfortable for you.

Poliwhirl is supposed to have a clockwise swirl on his belly. I guess I have 'swirl' issues, because try as I might, every swirl I do is 'counter clockwise'. If you can make the swirl go clockwise, you should. :)

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row are the total number of stitches that should be in that rnd/row.


BODY:

Beginning with white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around. Switch to blue yarn in the last stitch of this round. (56)

( I find it easiest to embroider swirl on at that point. Using black yarn and yarn needle use backstitch to add swirll to belly, see notes on that above)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (64)

Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (72)

Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (80)

Rnd 12-18: sc in each sc around (80)

Rnd 19: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next two sc around (72)

Rnd 20: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next two sc around (64)

Rnd 21: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next two sc around (56)

Rnd 22: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next two sc around (48)

Rnd 23: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next two sc around (40)

Rnd 24: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next two sc around (32)

(begin stuffing body at this point, continue as needed while finishing up the closing)

Rnd 25: dec over the next 2 sc, dec over the next two sc around (24)

Rnd 26: sc in next sc, dec over next two sc around (16)

Rnd 2: dec over next two sc around (8)

F/O leaving tail for sewing. Finish out any stuffing needed. Weave tail thru final round and pull tight to close off. Tack firmly.


ARMS:

(hands)
With white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)

Rnd 4-9: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 10: dec in next two sc around (8)

Rnd 11: working in Front Loops Only for this round- 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 12: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

F/O weave in tail.

(arm)
With blue:

Attach blue to one of the unworked loops from Rnd 11.

Rnd 1: sc in each of the unworked loops around (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 3-9: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O leaving long tail for sewing.

Stuff the arm (but leave hand portion unstuffed). Flatten the hand and curl closed to resemble fist. You can tack it into a fist shape if you want.

LEGS AND FEET:

Foot-

With blue:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc around, 2 sc in next sc (16)

Rnd 5-11: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 12: dec over next two sc around (8)

F/0 and sew opening closed. Foot is flattened but not stuffed.

Leg-

Repeat rnds 1 and 2 of foot.

Rnd 3: working in Back Loops Only for this round- sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O ... Stuff leg moderately firmly. Sew the open end centered over the last few rows of flattened foot.


EYES:

eyeball-

with black:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring, change to white in last sc (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4: dec over next two sc around (6)

F/O leaving tail for sewing. Stuff firmly to round shape. Use yarn needle to weave tail through the last row of stitches, pull tightly to close.

eye socket-

With blue:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3-5: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O weave in tail. Insert eyeball with front facing out. adjust eyeball to whatever position desired.

eyelid-

with blue:
Ch 6. sc in 2nd ch from hook. HDC in next ch, DC in next ch, HDC in next ch, sc in last. (5)

F/O tie the two 'tails' together and sew the lid to the eye socket as shown in the picture. the 'rounded' side (top of the stitches) should be sewn to the lid, while the foundation ch side (straighter side) goes across the eyeball.


ASSEMBLY:

I recommend that you pin all pieces in place as show in the picture before sewing. This allows you to make final adjustments and get everything exactly as you want it before making it permanent. Sew firmly to body when satisfied with placement.


Poliwhirl and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

PSYDUCK with pattern




Well being on a bit of a Pokemon kick lately ... I made a Psyduck for the girls. (I may keep it tho, cause I'm quite fond of Psyduck).

I wrote the pattern down as I made it, and I hope there are no omissions or mistakes in it. If anything is wrong, please let me know, I'll correct it as quickly as possible :) The picture doesn't really do it justice, I simply couldn't get the right light, but maybe I'll try again another time and get a better picture.


PSYDUCK

Materials:
WW yarn Gold and light yellow
(I used RedHeart SS in Gold and Cornmeal)
Small amounts of white and brown WW yarn
F hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't really important as long as the stitches are moderately tight so that the fiberfill won't show through.

I tend to prefer to join my rounds, but if you prefer to use continuous rounds with stitch markers, that's fine. Whichever is most comfortable for you. I also recommend using the 'invisible' decrease stitch (make decrease stitches in the front loops only, instead of going thru both loops of the stitch. They aren't *completely* invisible, but they do reduce the gaps a great deal especially in 3D pieces.

The numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row, are how many total stitches should be in that round/row.


HEAD AND BODY

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next around (24)

Rnd 4: 1 sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next around (32)

Rnd 5: 1 sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next around (40)

Rnd 6: 1 sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next around (48)

Rnd 7-14: 1 sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next sc around (30)

Rnd 18: repeat rnd 16 (30)

Rnd 19: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (45)

Rnd 20: repeat rnd 16 (45)

Rnd 21: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54)

Begin stuffing the head moderately firmly.

Rnd 22-26: sc in each sc around (54)

Rnd 27: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)

Rnd 28-37: sc in each sc around (60)

Rnd 38: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (50)

Rnd 39: sc in each sc around (50)

Rnd 40: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

Continue stuffing the body as with the head.

Rnd 41: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 42: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)

Rnd 43 dec over next 2 sc around (10)

F/O leaving long tail. Finish up stuffing if needed. Using yarn needle, weave tail thru last round of stitches and pull tight to close.


ARMS (make 2)

Rnd 1: 9 sc in magic circle (9)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 3-5: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 7-12): sc in each sc around (18)

Begin shoulder:

Row 13: sc in next 10 sc , turn (leave remaining stitches unworked) (10)

Row 14: sc in each sc across, turn (10)

Row 15: dec over first 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc, turn (8)

Row 16: dec over first 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)

F/O leaving long tail for sewing

HAND:

Row 1: Flatten out the 'hand' (rounds 1-3) making sure that the 'shoulder' is facing up. Attach yarn in between rounds 2 and 3. Ch 1, sc in same place. sc in space between rounds 1 and 2. 2 sc in first round (ring). sc in between rounds 1 and 2. sc in between rounds 2 and 3. turn. (6 sc across 'hand')

Row 2: ch 3 Sl st in second ch from hook, HDC in next ch. sk 1 sc, sl st in next sc. Ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch. sk 1 sc sl st in next sc. ch 3 sl st in second ch from hook hdc in next ch. sk 1 sc sl st to outside of last sc. F/O weave in the end

_____________________________
(ALTERNATE HAND)

If the hand instructions above are hard to understand, this method may be easier and gives a very similar finished appearance.

Row 1: ch 7. sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (6)

Row 2. Follow row 2 of hand from above. F/O leaving tail, sew to end of arm across the end making sure that the 'shoulder' on other end is facing up.
_____________________________


EYES:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc ( 10)

F/O

With a small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread, make a french knot in the center of the eye (a small bead will work also if you prefer)

BEAK:

Rnd 1: 9 sc in magic ring (9)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 3-8: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 9: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc last 4 sc. (22)

Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc last 5 sc. (27)

Rnd 11: sc in each sc around. (27) F/O

With small amount of brown, make two 'nostrils' using picture to help placement with straight stitches.

FEET (make 4):

Row 1: ch 4. sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (3)

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in remaining sc across (4)

Row 3: repeat row 2 (5)

Row 4: repeat row 2 (6)

Row 5: sc in each sc across (6)

Row 6: repeat row 2 (7)

Row 7: repeat row 2 (8)

Row 8 repeat row 2 (9)

Row 9: repeat row 5. Do not F/O (9)

Going down the side, sc in end of each row. 2 sc in corner, sc in loop of beginning ch, 2 sc in corner, sc in end of each row back up the other side to the beginning of row 9. (the side facing you at this point is the 'right' side of the piece)

Sc in first sc of row 9. Ch 1, in next sc work the following: DC, TR, DC. Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc. Ch 1 in next sc work DC, TR, DC. Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc. Ch 1, in next sc work DC, TR, DC. Ch 1 sc in last sc. F/O

Sew two feet together with wrong sides together using whip stitch.

TAIL:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 5: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 6-7: repeat row 3 (18)

Rnd 8: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 9-11: repeat row 3 (24)

F/O Flatten tail. Tail is not stuffed.

ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the pieces in place before sewing them on, this will help get everything like you want it before it's permanent.

Moderately stuff the arms (including leaving some available for the 'shoulder'.) Place arms as shown. Tilt head slightly to one side and 'tack' the hands to the sides of the head leaving the fingers free. Sew on beak and eyes as shown. Sew feet either on bottom of front for sitting position, or underneath for standing position. Sew tail to bottom on back.

For his 'hair', with brown, ch 8 sl st in second ch from hook and each ch across, ch 9 sl st in second ch from hook and each ch to end, ch 8 sl st second ch from and each to end, F/O tie the two ends together. Attach to top of head a little to the back of center.


If anything is confusing or not right, please let me know I will correct it.


Psyduck and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

PIKACHU PLUSHIE PATTERN


This is a Pikachu doll I made for my daughter. Even though I've been crocheting for 35 years, this is the first time I've ever tried to write out a pattern for someone other than myself to follow, so if anything is confusing, please let me know I'll do my best to fix it :)


PIKACHU PLUSHIE


MATERIALS:

About 4 oz. WW yarn in Yellow
About 1 oz. WW yarn in Black
Small amount of brown WW yarn
Either small bits of red felt or red yarn for cheeks
two black eyes or black buttons (half inch)
fiberfill stuffing
Yarn needle
F hook

NOTES:

Gauge isn't really of a concern here. In fact, you can make different sized plushies with different sized yarns and appropriate hooks. Just make sure the hook and your tension result in a moderately tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

In my work I tend to prefer joining rounds with a slip stich, if you prefer to use the 'amigurumi' style of continuous rounds with stitch markers, that also works well.

Number in () at the end of each rnd indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round (or rounds).

When working dec (decrease) stitch, it is helpful to use the 'invisible' decrease by working the decrease in the FRONT LOOPS ONLY. It doesn't really make it completely invisible, but it does help a great deal to avoid the 'gaps' that are common when making decreases (especially in plushie, amigurumi or 3D crochet)


HEAD AND BODY:

Using Yellow

Rnd 1: Using 'magic ring' 8 sc in ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in sc, 2 sc in next around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 7-13: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 14: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc. Sc in next six sc, dec around. (35)

Rnd 15: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc. around (30)

Rnd 16: sc next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc around (36)

Rnd 17: sc next 5 sc, 2 sc next sc around (42)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 19: sc in next 13 sc 2 sc in next sc (45)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (45)

Rnd 21: sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc (48)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 23: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc (52)

Rnd 24-26 sc in each sc around (52)

Rnd 27: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 29: sc in next 6 sc dec over next to sc around (42)

Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (42)

NOTE: It's a good idea to begin stuffing the piece at this point (if you haven't already). Stuff the head and body moderately firm.

Rnd 31: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 32: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 33: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 34: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd: 35: sc in sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

F/O and using yarn needle, add any little bit of stuffing that might needed to finish filling out the bottom and weave yarn thru very last round, pull tight to close off neatly and weave in ends.


ARMS (make 2):

Using Yellow:

Rnd 1: Using magic ring, 6 sc in ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 4-6: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, leaving remaining four sc unworked. turn. Sk first sc, sc next sc, dec over last 2 sc, for a total of 3 sc. (this creates a small 'shoulder' that makes positioning much easier) F/O


FEET (make 2):

Using Yellow:

Rnd 1: Using magic ring, 6 sc in ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3. sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 4-5: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in 2 sc, dec over next two around (9)

Rnd 7: flatten out the foot and sc together to 'close' the foot. The foot is not stuffed. F/O


EARS (make 2):

Using Black

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in last (5)

Rnd 3: sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in last (6)

Rnd 4: sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc, change to yellow at joining stitch. (7)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (7)

Rnd 6: sc in first 6 sc, 2 sc in last (8)

Rnd 7: sc in first 7 sc, 2 sc in last (9)

Rnd 8: sc in first 8 sc, 2 sc in last (10)

Rnd 9: sc in first 3 sc, dc in next 4 sc, sc in last 3 sc (10 sts)

F/0


TAIL (make 2):

Using Yellow

Row 1: Chain 11. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch. (10)

Row 2-3: Sc in each sc across (10)

Row 4: sc in each sc across, ch 6 (10 sc and 6 ch)

Row 5: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of remaining chs. sc in first 5 sc of row 4 (leave remaining 5 sc unworked) (total of 10 sc)

Row 6-7: sc in each sc across (10)

Row 8: repeat row 4

Row 9: repeat row 5

Row 10-14: sc in each sc across (10)

Row 15: sc in first 3 sc, hdc in next three sc, dc in last 4 sc. (10) F/O

Sew the two tail pieces together by either whipstitching, or using sc even around the edges. (you can place pipe cleaner in between them to add poseability, but this is purely optional).

Using brown:

Row 1: Ch 7. Sc in 2n ch from hook and each ch across. turn

Row 2: sk first sc, sc in each remaining sc (6)

Row 3: repeat row 2 (5)

Row 4: repeat row 2 (4)

Row 5: repeat row 2 (3)

Row 6: repeat row 2 (2)

F/O


STRIPES ON BACK:

Using brown

Bottom stripe:

Row 1. Ch 15 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (14)

Row 2: sc in first 2 sc, hdc in 2 sc, dc in next 6 sc, hdc in next 2 sc, sc in last 2 sc (14)

F/O

Top Stripe:

Row 1: Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (10)

Row 2: sc in first 2 sc, hdc in next 2 sc, dc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 2 sc, sc in last 2 sc (10)

F/O


CONSTRUCTION:

Stuff the arms and sew to the body using the picture to help with placement. Stuff the ears and sew them to the head using the slight slant of the final row of the ears to give them a slight backwards tilt. Sew feet to the bottom. Sew the two 'stripes' to the back using picture for placement. Sew the tail to the bottom of the backside below the bottom stripe at an angle. Sew the small brown triangle over the bottom of the tail as shown. Sew buttons (or eyes) onto face. Using small amount of black, add nose using a few small whip stitches. Sew felt circles to sides of face (or make small ring with red yard using six sc in magic ring). Using small backstitches, add mouth as shown.


Pikachu and Pokemon are copywrite by Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
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