All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D

All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Mario Brothers Mushrooms


June 27, 2009

These little plushies were requested. They're really quite simple to make, but I have to admit, I had so much fun, I ended up making all those in one day. I love it when something simple and so much fun comes out looking so very cute :)


Mario Mushrooms

Materials:

WW yarn in white, the colors you need for the tops (varies with the type of mushroom) and a tiny amount of black
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle for weaving in ends

Notes: Gauge isn't important. Any size hook or yarn works here, but choice of yarn and hook will determine the finished size.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.


Mushroom:

Beginning at the base with white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around f/o white (24)
Rnd 8: Join the main color of the mushroom top, 2 sc in Front Loops Only of each sc crochet around (48)
Rnd 9: (working through both loops now) sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)
Rnd 11-13: sc in each sc around (60)
Rnd 14: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (50)
Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (50)
Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (40)

Begin stuffing here if you haven't already. It's important to stuff the mushroom fairly firmly, and shape it as you progress.

Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)
Rnd 20: dec over next 2 sc around (10)

F/O leaving long tail. Using a chopstick or the back side of a large crohet hook, finish stuffing and shape the top. Using yarn needle weave the tail through the last round and pull to close.


Spots (make 5):

Using white (or alternate color):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

F/O and weave ends in on backside of disk.

Position spots with one centered on the top of the mushroom, and four equally spaced around the sides. Sew on. (I like to use sewing thread for these because it doesn't add any unsightly bulk to the spots)

Using black yarn, choose the face 'area' (between two of the side spots) and make a few whipstitches for each eye.


------------------------------------------------
Using the same pattern you can make very small versions more suitable for phone charms or jewelry. These earrings and pendant I made quite some time back for my girls.


For those, I used a #9 steel crochet hook, and two strands of sewing thread held together (#20 or 30 crochet thread also works great if you have it). Add some jewelry findings and you've got a cute little jewelry set to wear :)


Mario Brothers and the mushroom character is copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Shaymin Plushie


This is a Shaymin plushie I made by request. Poor guy has been thru an awful lot. My cat took a liking (or disliking) to him and decided to chew his nose nearly off, and 'degrassed' his back pretty good too. After some serious repair work and surgery on the nose, he's back together but just a tad bit worse for his unexpected adventure.

This doll has a few different techniques involved, but for the intermediate to advanced crocheter it shouldn't present any problems.

This pattern has of yet been tested only by me, so if you find any problems, please let me know, I'll fix it as soon as possible. :)


Shaymin

Materials:

WW yarn in white, medium green, dark green and pink (rose or coral works too)
G and F hooks
Felt scraps in black, white and red
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
(optional) latch hook tool

Notes:

This pattern is assuming you have at least moderate experience in crochet. There are various techniques used in this pattern. At least a working knowledge of Latch Hook rug work is also helpful.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each row/round indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round/row.

Head and Body:

Using white and G hook:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in last sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 4 sc (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 9-28: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 29: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 30: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 31: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 32: sc in next 1 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 33: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving a tail. Using the back of your hook or a chopstick, add any stuffing needed to finish out the shape. Weave tail thru the final round and pull to close.


Front and Back Legs (make four) :

Using white and G hook:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of the last 2 sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in each of the last 2 sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in each of the last 2 sc (12)

F/O stuff moderately

Grass Mat:

(this piece is made in two parts, first the 'mat' which is sewn onto the back of the body. Then you will 'latch' the grass pieces onto the mat using either a crochet hook or latch hook tool.)

Using medium green and G hook:

Row 1: Ch 13 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. turn (12)
Row 2: sc in each sc across turn (12)
Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Row 4: sc in each sc across (14)
Row 5: repeat row 3 (16)
Row 6: repeat row 2 (16)
Row 7: repeat row 3 (18)
Row 8: repeat row 2 (18)
Row 9: repeat row 3 (20)
Row 10: repeat row 2 (20)
Row 11-21: repeat row 2 (20)
Row 22: dec over next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc sc across to last 4 sc, dec over 2 sc (twice) (16)
Row 23: repeat row 22 (12)

F/O and sew to top of body centered evenly. Cut about 100 4 1/2 inch pieces of yarn of the same color as the mat. Latch hook or use crochet hook to loop the pieces around the sc stitches. I found that using two pieces at a time, and latching in every other sc, in a checkerboard pattern seemed to work the easiest. But a single piece in each stitch will work as well if that's easier for you.


Flower (make 2):

Using pink and F hook:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc first sc, ch 3 sc next 2 sc, ch 3 (repeat around to last sc, sc in last sc and sl st to top of first sc) (12 sc, 6 ch 3 loops)
Rnd 4: sc in first sc, in ch 3 loop work the following : *hdc, dc, tr, picot, tr, dc hdc ; sc in next 2 sc* repeat from * around to last sc, sc in last sc

F/O


Leaves (make 4):

Using dark green and F hook:

Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc (4)
Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 2 sc, 2 sc last sc (6)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc next 4 sc, 2 sc last sc (8)
Row 5-8: Sc in each sc across (8)
Row 9: sc in each sc to last two sc, dec over last two sc (7)
Row 10: repeat row 9 (6)
Row 11: repeat row 9 (5)
Row 12: repeat row 9 (4)
Row 13: repeat row 9 (3)
Row 14: repeat row 9 (2)
Row 15: repeat row 9 (1)

F/O weave in tails.

Assembly:

Sew moderately stuffed legs to the bottom as shown in pictures. Add a few whip stitches with black yarn or embroidery thread for nose. Cut and sew on eyes and two very small circles as shown in pitcures for catchlights. Cut mouth shape from red felt and sew just under the nose. Sew the leaves to the edge of the flower, and then carefully sew to either side of the body (a long curved needle really comes in handy at this point)


Shaymin and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

SQUIRTLE




This is a little squirtle I recently finished for the girls. It took me longer than usual, due to the fact I have a bad infection in my eye, which causes my eye to water constantly, making everything blurry all the time. It should clear up in a few days but it's been really a pain trying to work with blurry eyes. LOL (if you click on the picture, it should give you the full sized image)

Here's the pattern, and like with the Pichu, my pattern tester is still out of town for at least another week possibly more, so this one hasn't been tested by anyone but me. I've tried to make sure it's complete and error free, but if you do run into anything at all, let me know and I'll make changes asap. :)

Enjoy!

Squirtle

MATERIALS:

WW yarn approx 3 oz of cornflower blue, 1.5 ounces of med. chocolate, 1.5 ounces of tan. Very small amt. of white
F Hook
Felt scraps in black and white
sewing thread to match the felt
small amt of black embroidery thread (although a doubled length of black sewing thread works well)
needles for sewing and weaving in yarn ends
Fiberfill

NOTES:

Gauge isn't very important here. Just make sure that your needle, yarn and tension combine to leave fairly tight and consistent stitches so that the fiberfill won't come through. I also recommend that you use the 'invisible decrease' (working decrease stitches in front loops only). It's not entirely invisible, but it does reduce or eliminate the gaps that regular decreases create when working in rounds.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate how many total stitches should be in that round/row.

This doll ends up about 6 inches high if materials and hook size that are listed are used. If you use a different sized hook or yarns, your doll will be of a different size.


HEAD:

Using blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5-8: sc in each sc around (32)

Rnd 9: sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next three sc, 3 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in each of next 12 sc. (42)

Rnd 10: sc in each of next 12 sc, (working in Front loops only) dec over 2 sc (three times), dec3 over 3 sc (twice), dec over 2 sc (three times), (working again through both loops) sc in each of next 12 sc. (32)

Rnd 11: sc in each of next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Begin stuffing head here if you haven't already. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)

Rnd 13: Dec over next 2 sc around (8)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to properly shape the head.

BELLY PLATE:

Using tan:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (40) F/O, weave in ends.

Using black sewing thread and needle, add the markings to the belly plate using the photo as a guide for placement.


BACK PLATE:

Using chocolate color:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8-10: sc in each sc around (42)

F/O

Sew the back plate to the belly plate (easing in the two extra stitches) stuffing carefully as you go. Shape the body with the stuffing as you sew.

ARMS:


Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring. (5)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 7: sc in each of next 4 sc. ch1 and turn, sk first sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, sl st into end of row. (2 sc) F/O

Stuff arm moderately firm, but not too stiff. Create the fingers as follows:

Attach the yarn in between rounds 2 and 3 (beginning rounds of arm) and ch3. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in between rnds 1 and 2. Ch3. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in between rnds 1 and 2. Ch3. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in between rnds 2 and 3. F/O weave in ends

LEGS:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 3: (working in Front Loops Only for this round) sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc (two times - toe formed), sc in next 5 sc (12)

Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O

Stuff the foot and leg carefully keeping the toe formation. Make the toes as follows:

Attach the yarn on the right side of the toe, in one of the free loops left in round 3 and ch3. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next free loop. Ch3. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next free loop. Ch3. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in next free loop. F/O weave in ends.


TAIL:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3-7: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 8: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 9: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 11: sc next 2 sc, roll the small starting end of the tail up to meet the current round. Sc in next 2 sc AND going through a couple of the stitches of the tail end roll (securing the roll) sc in each of the remaining sc around (18)

Rnd 12: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, around (15)

Rnd 13: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, around (12)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (12)

You will likely want to begin stuffing at this point, continuing as you progress. Gently shape the tail as you stuff it.

Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Rnd 16: repeat rnd 14 (9)

Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, turn. sk first sc, sc in next 2 sc, sl st in last sc. F/O


ASSEMBLY:

Using the photos as a guide, sew head, arms and legs to body. (I recommend pinning all the parts first, to be certain that you like the placement, then sew each piece to the body. The arms have a small 'shoulder' (last two rows worked). This shoulder goes on the 'back' shell plate, and aids in positioning the arms.

Positing the tail at the base of the back shell, with the 'cape' (last two rows worked) going underneath the body. Sew firmly, taking care to positing the tail as desired. The curl should be on the 'bottom' side of the tail. (refer to pictures)

With white yarn, ch approx 77 (do not fasten off just yet). Using pins, attach this chain carefully along the very edge of the back shell, going around the arms, legs and tail as shown in the pictures. if you need to add some to the chain to make it long enough, do so, otherwise remove what chains are necessary to make the chain meet evenly and F/O. Sew carefully in place with sewing thread and needle.

Cut two pieces of black felt for eyes, and two very small white ovals for catchlights in eyes. Sew or glue in place carefully. Using either black embroidery thread, or a doubled length of sewing thread, add nostrils and mouth (using the formation created while constructing the head leaving the unworked loops) as a guide. (see pictures for help with placement)



Squirtle and Pokemon is copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Pichu Plush


July 08, 2009

This is the Pichu doll I just finished up for my youngest daughter who is probably the world's biggest Pichu fan. I must admit, Pichu has become one of my favorites as well.

Pichu

MATERIALS:
WW yarn in light yellow and a medium black
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Scraps of felt in black, red, pink and a very tiny bit of white
sewing threads to match the felt colors

NOTES:

I tend to prefer to join my rounds, but if you prefer continuous rounds and using stitch markers, that's just as good. Whatever is most comfortable for you.

Gauge isn't an issue, just make sure that your hook, yarn and tensions result in a fairly tight stitch, to prevent the stuffing from showing through.

I also recommend using the 'invisible decrease' when making 3D pieces like this. It's done by making the decrease stitch in the Front Loops Only of the two sc. While the stitch isn't completely invisible, it does create a much neater looking piece with few to no 'gaps' where the decrease stitches are made.

Number in ( ) at the end of each round or row, are the total number of stitches in that round or row.

Special stitches used:

BPDC (Back post double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from the back side of the work right to left around the post of the indicated stitch on a previous row. yo and pull up a loop (3 lps on hook)
yo and draw through two lps (2 lps on hook), yo and draw through two lps (1 lp on hook)

FPTC (Front post treble crochet): Yarn over twice, insert hook around the post (from the front side of your work) of the stitch indicated, yo and draw up a lp (4 lps on hook), yo and draw through two lps (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through two lps (2 lps on hook), yo and draw through two lps (1 lp on hook)

-----------------------------------


HEAD:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 9-12: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 13: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 14: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Begin stuffing about this point if you haven't done so already.

Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 18: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

F/O leaving tail, add any stuffing to finish filling out the head. Weave the tail through the last round worked and pull to close.


BODY:

Repeat rounds 1-7 of HEAD.

Rnd 8-11: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 13: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 14: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 19: sc in each sc around (18)

F/O and stuff moderately firm, leaving opening at neck as is for now.


EARS:

Make 2.

Using yellow yarn,

Rnd1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (10)

Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (14)

Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (16)

Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, around (18)

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc (twice) sc next 5 sc dec over next 2 sc (twice) (14)

Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Do not fasten off. Work one round of sc evenly around the edges of the flattened ear, working 2 sc together in the 'bends' on the sides and 3 sc together in the top point and both of the bottom 'corners'. Join to top of beginning sc. F/O yellow. Attach black to the 4th sc from the bottom of the ear (the end opposite the point). Ch1 and sc in same st as joining.

Sc in each sc to the center stitch of the point (the middle sc at the point where you put three sc together) in that center sc, work the following - sc, FPTC (going around the center sc in the second row below), sc - work sc in each sc to the fourth sc from the bottom on the other side. Do not ch 1, turn. Skip first sc from hook and work to the point. In the point work the following - sc, BPDC (going around the post of the FPTC from row before), sc - work sc until the next to last stitch. Sl st in last stitch. F/O weave in ends.


ARMS:

Make 2

Using yellow yarn

Rnd 1: sc 8 in magic ring

Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 3-7: sc in each sc around (10)

F/O. Stuff moderately without making them over stiff.


FEET:

Using yellow:

Rnd 1: sc 6 in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (10)

Flatten out the foot and sc thru both layers to 'close' end. Foot is not stuffed.

F/O


TAIL:

Using Black make 2 of the following:

Row 1: Ch 11. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (10)

Row 2: sc in each sc across, do not turn but ch 7.

Row 3: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to previous row, sc in next 5 sc of row 2, turn (leaving remaining sc of row 2 unworked) (11)

Row 4-7: sc in each sc across (11)

Place the two pieces together and sc evenly around the edge going through both pieces. Use 3 sc together in each outside corner, and one sc on inside corners.


COLLAR:

Using black:

Ch 22, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 7 chs. Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch of foundation ch. Ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next ch of foundation ch. Ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in next ch of foundation ch. Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch of foundation ch. Sc in remaining chs of foundation ch.

ASSEMBLY:

I strongly recommend that you pin all the pieces together before sewing them, just to ensure that you have everything as you want it. Sew head to body, arms and legs in place (using picture for reference). Sew ears to top of head as shown in the picture. Sew the tail to the center bottom of the back of the body as shown. It doesn't matter to which side the tail is turned. Whichever you prefer.

Cut two dime sized circles of black felt, two quarter sized circles of pink felt and two very tiny circles of white. With red felt, cut a mouth the shape shown (it's probably easier to make a paper version first, and when you're pleased with the mouth shape and size, use that paper piece as a template to cut out the mouth from red felt.)

Sew (or glue) the face pieces on as shown, add the 'catch lights' in the eyes as shown.

Sew the collar around the neck, and sew the points of the collar down to the chest.



Pichu and pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
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