All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D

All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Pincushion Ring

My oldest daughter decided to make herself a neat little 'traveling sewing kit' from a tin box that originally held some candy. She painted it, and added some really cute graphics and then put in a magnet strip to hold her pins and needles. After a bit, we realized she needed a small pincushion to use when she was making her emergency repairs. (being avid hunter and campers and traveling quite a bit, these things are often needed).

So I devised her a pincushion in the form of a ring, that fit in her box, and also was functional when she needed it. She wanted it to resemble a robin's egg in a nest and this is what we came up with.

It came out really cute (and functional) so I thought I would share the pin cushion pattern with you. :)



Here are the closeups of the pin cushion and the pattern for it is below. (Please excuse my wrinkly and un-manicured hand, lol.)


And here's the pattern for the ring pincushion. I just typed this out, so if you find anything confusing or any typoes or such, please let me know!

PinCushion Ring

Materials:

#10 Crochet thread in Robin's Egg Blue and Milk Chocolate Brown
Size 7 steel crochet hook
Fiberfill (or a couple of cotton balls)
Plastic from a milk jug or water bottle
Small piece of elastic (to fit around your finger)

Note:

I wouldn't leave out the step of adding the plastic to the pin cushion. That's what will stop the pins/needles from going through the cushion and stabbing your hand. Any hard plastic will work, I used a bit of a milk jug for it and it worked perfectly and is easily cut with any good pair of scissors.

If you use a different size of thread or a different size of hook, you will need to make the 'base' circle first, then use that circle to determine the size of plastic disc you will need. Using the materials listed above, a quarter is the perfect size to use to cut your circle of plastic.

On this pattern I chose to join each round with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round. If you are more comfortable working in continuous rounds, by all means do so.


Base Circle

Using blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

F/O.

Top/Dome

Using blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6-8: sc in each sc around (40)

F/O. (this part is going to appear to be much larger than the base, don't worry, it will fit)

Using a quarter as a guide, draw a circle on the milk jug plastic and cut out (make sure it's from a flat portion of the jug).

Sew the dome to the base in the back loops of the last rounds (leaving a 'free' loop to the outside of the rim). Insert the plastic disc to rest on the base circle and begin stuffing the 'dome'. As you continue to sew up the pieces, continue to add stuffing. When you have just a few stitches left to sew up, use a yarn needle or toothpick to ensure that the dome is very firmly stuffed and close up the cushion.

Frill:

Attach the brown thread to one of the 'free loops' at the base of the dome part of the cushion and ch 1. Sc in the same loop as you attached the thread, 2 sc in the next free loop, sc in next free loop. Repeat all the way around.

next round: ch 3, skip one sc, sc in next sc. *ch 3, skip one sc, sc in next sc* repeat from * to * around to first sc. Sl st to first sc and then into the first ch 3 loop.

next round: Sc in same ch 3 loop, ch 4, sc in next ch3 loop. *ch 4, sc in next ch 3 loop* repeat around and sl st to first sc.

F/O

Weave in all ends.

Taking elastic piece, sew to the flat bottom of the cushion checking to see that it will fit snugly around your finger (but not so tight that it's uncomfortable). Use the pictures as a guide.


This pattern is an original pattern copyright by Linda Potts (June 2009). You may link to this pattern. Please do not sell or repost this pattern as your own.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Torchic Plushie



Well Torchic is finished. I can't begin to tell you how many requests I've had for this one. :)

The pictures are a little bright, but I'm at the mercy of the Texas summer sun and I've yet to find the dimmer switch on that sucker LOL. I wish I could, the heat and drought are about to really put the whammy on all my plants (the jasmines in the background were drooping terribly when I took those pictures today)

Anyway, pattern is here... I still don't have a pattern tester, so if you find anything wrong or have any questions, just let me know and I'll get back as soon as I can :)


Torchic

Materials:

WW yarn in organge and gold (I used RedHeart SS in Pumpkin and Gold)
F Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Small amounts of black and white felt for eyes

Notes:

Gauge isn't important, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a fairly tight stitch so that the fiberfill won't poke through.

The numbers at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round/row.


HEAD:

Using Orange:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (52)
Rnd 8-14: sc in each sc around (52)
Rnd 15: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 16: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 17: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)


F/O and stuff firmly, shaping as you stuff. Do not close opening.


BODY:

Using Orange:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 16: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)

F/O and stuff firmly, shaping as you stuff. Do not close opening.


FEET:

Make 4 using Gold:
(do not chain 1 before turning on each row, work first sc in the last sc of previous row)

Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next sc (2)
Row 2-4: sc in ea\ch sc (2)
Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc across (3)
Row 6: sc in each sc across (3)
Row 7: repeat row 5 (4)
Row 8: repeat row 6 (4)
Row 9: repeat row 5 (5)
Row 10: repeat row 6 (5)
Row 11: repeat row 5 (6)
Row 12: Ch 5, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 chs. Skip 1 sc of row 11, sl st in next sc. One toe made. Ch 5 (repeat sequence for a total of three 'toes') Put last sl st in the outside loop of the sc on the end of row 11.

F/O

Sew together two feet using a whipstitch.

BEAK:

Using Gold:

Rnd 1: 5 sc in Magic Ring (5)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 4: sc in next 7 sc, in next sc work sc, hdc, sc, sc in last 7 sc (16 sc, 1 hdc)

F/O leave tail for sewing on to head later. Don't stuff.


TAIL:

Using orange:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14)

F/O Stuff very lightly, leave opening.


FLAME HEADDRESS:

(Gold base flames, make 2 small and one large)

SMALL:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (8)
Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (8)

LARGE:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 7: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (10)
Rnd 8: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (8)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (8)

Arranging the flame bases with the large piece in the middle and the two smaller pieces on each side, sew together at the bottom of the pieces. Draw tighter until they resemble the picture. Fasten well. (some additional tacking may be necessary further up the pieces to get the look desired) You may want to *lightly* stuff the base pieces, I didn't, but it may work better for you)

FLAME ACCENT:

Using orange, make 2:

Row 1: Ch 4. Sc in in 2nd ch from hook, and each ch across (do not chain 1, turn) (3)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc across (turn) (6)
Row 3: Ch 4. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc next ch, hdc in last ch. Sk 1 sc in row 2, sl st in next sc. Ch 4. Repeat sequence for total of three 'spikes' for flame accent.

F/O

Placing the accent piece in the center of the front as shown in the pictures, sew to the base flames.


WING/FEATHERS:

Using Gold, make 4:

Row 1: Ch 4. sc in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch across. turn (3)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc across. turn (6)
Row 3: 2 sc in each sc across. turn (12)
Row 4: Ch 4. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch. Sk 2 sc in row 3, sl st in next sc of row 3. Repeat sequence to end for total of 4 points.

F/O.

Tack the 4 'wings' to the body at the neck opening as shown in pictures. There should be a gap/opening at the front of the body. Overlapping is perfectly fine, it creates the 'ruffling' effect.


FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend first pinning all the pieces together to ensure you have them where you want before sewing together. Begin by sewing the head to the body matching up the neck openings and keeping the wing/feathers as you tacked them down. Add feet to the bottom as shown, leaving the front 'toes' and the back 'claw' loose. Sew tail to back side centered between the feet. Sew beak to head as shown in the picture centering it to the 'gap' of the feathers in the front. Add the flame headdress to the top center of the head, sewing it firmly in place as shown.

Cut two oval shapes from black felt for eyes and sew/glue them in place as shown. Add two tiny circles of white felt to the eyes for 'catch lights' as shown.



Torchic character and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Mew Plushie



I had a few requests to make a mew plushie, so this is my attempt. I have to say, figuring out the eyes was alot harder than I thought, and I'm still not sure I got them right.

If you find any problems with the pattern, please let me know I'll fix it as soon as possible :D
MEW

MATERIALS:
WW yarn pink
G Hook
Pieces of white and blue felt (for eyes)
Yarn Needle
Fiberfill

NOTES:

Gauge isn't really important, as long as your hook and yarn combination results in a fairly tight stitch to prevent fiberfill from coming through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches in that rnd/row.


HEAD:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 17: sc next 19 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

You will likely want to beging stuffing at this point and continue as work progresses. Stuff fairly firmly, shaping the head as you go.

Rnd 18: sc next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 19: sc next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)
Rnd 20: dec over next 2 sc around (10)

F/O leaving tail. Add any stuffing you need to in order to finish shaping the head. Weave the tail into the final round of sc, and pull to close. Weave in end.


BODY:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5 -14: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 15: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28)
Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already, and continue stuffing as work progresses. Stuff fairly firmly, shaping the body as you add stuffing.

Rnd 18: repeat Rnd 16 (24)
Rnd 19: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)
Rnd 20-21: repeat Rnd 16 (20)

Begin forming nape of neck:
Row 22: sc next 9 sc leaving remaining stitches unworked, do not ch 1 TURN (9)
Row 23: skip first sc, sc each sc across to end, do not ch 1, turn (8)
Row 24: skip first sc, sc each sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)

F/O leaving tail. Finish adding any stuffing needed to shape the body. Do not close up neck opening.


LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc. 2 sc in next sc around (16)
Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 9: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 11: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (10)
Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 13: Stuff leg. Don't stuff too firmly, but enough to give definition to the leg. Flatten the opening and working through both layers of stitches, sl st together.

F/O, weave in end thru the last row of sl st and pull very slightly to tighten the end of the leg. Tie off.


FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)
Rnd 3: sc next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 8: sc next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (10)
Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around (10)

Begin stuffing here and continue as you go. Stuff feet VERY lightly (you can skip stuffing the feet if you want, depending on how heavy the yarn is that you used)

Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (8)
Rnd 13-15: sc in each sc around (8)

Flatten the final row and working through both layers, sl st together (4 sl sts)

Sew the last round of the feet (the flattened end) to the flattened end of the legs. Weave in ends.


ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (7)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (7)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around to last sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (8)

F/O Stuff arms lightly to desired shape.


EARS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (20)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (20)

F/O Flatten ears to shape (do not stuff).


TAIL:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)
Rnd 7-8: sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 9: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 10: sc next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (8)

Stuff tail very lightly just to shape.

Rnd 11: sc next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)
Rnd 12-55: sc in each sc around (6)

Continue stuffing the tail as you progress every few rounds. How stiffly you stuff the tail is up to you. I stuffed the long portion of the tail only moderately, to allow for some movement, but still maintain the overall roundness.

After Rnd 55: Flatten the end and working thru both layers, sc across. F/O (3 sc)

(NOTE: If you like, you can add a long piece of medium gauge wire in the tail to allow it to be fully poseable. Be sure to securely tape any sharp points before adding though, to prevent them from poking through and damaging the stitches.)

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend that you pin ALL the pieces together before sewing together. This will allow you to make changes and adjustments to get the overall look you want.

Sew head to neck with the 'nape' of the neck in the back. The head should be tilted downard (as shown in the pictures). If you like, you can tilt the head a little to the side, as Mew is cutest when it has that 'curious' head tilt.

Sew arms to body as shown. Sew the legs to either side of the lower body as shown. Position them so that the 'flattened' joint between legs and feet is slightly lower than the body, to allow for freer movement of the feet.

Sew Ears to top of head positioned as shown. Curve the flattened ears slightly to give the shape desired (use pictures for help in placement)

Sew Tail to lower part of body on the back centered between the legs. (see pictures)

For the eyes, I recommend cutting shapes from paper first and pinning in place to ensure that you have the size and shape desired. Mew's eyes can be a little difficult to get the right shape and size, so working with paper first will save you *alot* of headaches with the felt. Cut two shapes in white felt, and then two inner pieces from blue felt (using picture as a guide for shapes) Sew in place after pinning first to ensure proper placement.

Cut two more very small white circles for 'catch lights' in the eyes, and sew (or glue) to the black felt in the positions shown.


Mew character and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Mario Brothers Goomba



Well, after many requests for this fella, here he is. Goomba from Mario Brothers.
He's kinda cute for a grumpy guy. LOL

My girls have already laid claim to him, altho now they're arguing over who gets to keep him in their room.

As always, the pattern is here, and if you have any questions or problems, let me know I'll try to answer as quickly as I can.


Goomba

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in warm (medium) brown and light brown
G hook
Felt pieces in white and black
Yarn Needle
Fiberfill
material for weighting down the plush, like unpopped popcorn or the plastic pellets they sell at craft stores

NOTES:

This doll really needs weight in the base due to it's naturally top-heavy design. I used unpopped popcorn (it's a bit heavier than dried beans) or you can use the plastic pellets they sell at craft stores specifically for this purpose.

Numbers at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round or row.


HEAD/BODY:

Using warm brown:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7-8: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 10-12: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 13: sc next 13 sc, 2 sc next sc (three times) (45)
Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (45)
Rnd 16: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc next sc around (50)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (50)
Rnd 18: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (55)
Rnd 19: repeat rnd 17 (55)
Rnd 20: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)
Rnd 21-24: repeat round 17 (60)
Rnd 25: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (50)
Rnd 26: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

Begin stuffing and shaping the mushroom body here and continue stuffing and shaping as you progress. The body should be stuffed fairly firmly to help maintain the desired shape.

Rnd 27: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 28: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)
Rnd 29: dec over next 2 sc around (10)

F/O leaving long tail. Finish adding any stuffing needed to finalize the shape and weave in the tail, pull closed and tie off


BASE/STEM:

Using light brown:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: Working in Back Loops Only for this round, sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 6-11: (working in both loops again) sc in each sc around (32)

F/O leaving long tail. Fill 3/4 full with weighted material (pellets, popcorn, beans, etc) Stuff the remained with fiberfill firmly sew to the bottom of the body (using the rounds of crochet on the body to help center the stem) using the long tail and add any more stuffing that may be needed to shape the base and hold the weighting material firmly in place. You may find you need to flatten the very bottom of the of the stem a little, but this shouldn't be too difficult as the weighting materials are much more forgiving than fiberfill.

FEET:

Using warm brown, make 2:

Rnd 1: sc 8 in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (twice) (10)
Rnd 3: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (twice) (12)
Rnd 4: sc next 3 sc, 2 sc next sc around (15)
Rnd 5: sc next 4 sc, 2 sc next sc around (18)
Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (18)

Stuff fairly firmly, flatten the open end and match up the stitches. Sc thru both layers (closing the foot as you go) for a total of 9 sc. TURN

Next row: sk the first sc, sc in each sc to the last two sc, dec over the last two sc, (7)

F/O leaving long tail. Sew this 'tab' to the bottom of the stem, and tacking the foot to the stem side as needed to get the desired positioning of the feet. (see picture for placement help)

I highly recommend that you cut out paper 'pieces' for the face features before cutting out the felt and pin the paper pieces to the doll to make sure you have the shape and size you want. Before sewing on the felt pieces, pin them all in position to double check your sizes and shapes before sewing. (it seems like extra work, but it's less than having to take it apart and resew it later. :D)

Embroider the mouth as shown using a small amt of WW black yarn and yarn needle. From white felt, cut two small 'fangs' and place as shown. From black cut the eye 'pupils' and eyebrows and place as shown. Sew the eyebrows so that the upper ends are extending off of the face about 3/4 of an inch or so. Add two very smal circles of white to the black pupils at the positions shown for catch-lights in the eyes if desired.


Mario Brothers and the Goomba Mushroom character is copyright Nintendo.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Monday, June 1, 2009

Drifloon Plushie


This was another requested plushie. I'm considering also making the evolved form of Drifloon - Drifblim, but haven't gotten around to that yet. I'm sorry I don't have a picture of the back of him, but there's really nothing to show and my camera memory was full. *sigh*

The pattern is mostly an easy one, the one major difference is the sculpting part. It's not hard, it's just to add some 'puffs' to the cloud cap, but it IS a nice and easy introduction to soft sculpting other things, like faces in dolls, etc. If you have ever sewn on a plushie and accidently pulled the thread too tight and created a 'dent', you've already done some 'sculpting' LOL

If you find any problems, please let me know I'll fix them ASAP. :)

DRIFLOON

Materials:

WW yarn in purple and small amounts in white, gold and black
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Sewing thread in black, white and gold and sewing needle

NOTES:
Gauge isn't important, just ensure that your hook and yarn sizes result in a fairly tight stitch that won't allow the fiberfil to show thru.

Numbers at the end of rounds/rows indicate the total number of stitches that should be in the round/row.

This pattern includes a little bit of 'sculpting' of the pieces. This is done by using a sewing thread that matches the piece you're working on and sewing through the piece indicated to create shapes and forms. (see the cloud cap on the drifloon, the puffs of the cloud are sculpted using sewing thread). Use a single strand of sewing thread when sculpting, and try to keep your stitches buried in creases of the crochet to make them mostly invisible. By pulling your stitches gently tighter, it creates the shapes in the piece. It's not necessary to be precise in this particular sculpting application, because there are never any two clouds exactly alike.


BODY:

Using purple:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (64)
Rnd 9-15: sc in each sc around (64)
Rnd 16: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56)
Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 19: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Being stuffing at this point and continue as you go along.

Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 21: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)
Rnd 22: dec over next 2 sc around (8)

F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook, finish adding any stuffing you made need and shape to a ball. Weave in the tail and pull to close.

NECK (flair at bottom of 'head/body'):

Using purple:

Rnd 1: Ch 16 sl st to form a ring, make sure not to twist the chain. Sc in each ch around (16)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 3: *Ch 4. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch dc in next ch. Sk 2 of rnd 1 and sl st in next sc.* repeat from * to * to end of rnd. Sl st to base of first ch 4. F/O weave in the ends and sew the 'neck' to the center of the bottom of the head/body (center the closing 'circle' in the middle of the neck for best placement)


CLOUD CAP:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in MR (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc next 6 sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc (20)
Rnd 4: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sc, sc next 7 sc, 2 sc in last 3 sc (26)
Rnd 5: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, sc next 9 sc, 2 sc in last 4 sc (34)
Rnd 6: sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc next 16 sc, 2 sc in last sc (36)
Rnd 7 sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)


F/0 and stuff MODERATELY (you need some play in the firmness for the sculpting). Sew the 'cap' to the top of the head, using photo for placement help.

TAIL OF CAP:

Using white:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR (4)
Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around (4)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)
Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (9)

F/O stuff VERY lightly and sew tail to side of cloud cap at the base, to one side (see photo)

Using sewing thread and needle, stitch random patterns in cloud cap using a running stitch, gently pull the stitch line to create 'random puffs' in the cloud. (make sure you like the puff before you fasten off the sewing the thread, if you don't like it, pull it out gently and redo it)

NOSE:

With gold: (make 2)

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each chain across (10)
Work one row even (10)

F/O and weave in ends. Cross the two pieces and sew in the middle, then add to the 'face' of the drifloon. (see photo)

EYES:

Using black make 2:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)

F/O and sew to face on either side of the 'nose'


LEGS AND FEET:

Feet (with gold make 2 ):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (10)
Row 5: Flatten the 'foot' and working through both 'sides' work 5 sc across . turn (5)
Row 6: sc in first sc, in next sc work the following: dc, tr, dc, sl st next sc, in next sc work dc, tr, dc, sc in last sc.

F/O

String Legs:

Using black ww yarn, ch 35, sl st in 'top' of foot (see photo) Ch 1 and sl st in each ch to end. Attach each leg to the side of the 'neck' (see photo for placement help)


Finishing:

I also added a hanger by attaching fishing line to the top of the cap and an old earring hook so that he would hang neatly. I kinda like how he gently moves and turns in the draft of the room, it gives him a little life.


Drifloon and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
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