All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D

All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Dino Buddies

I don't normally advertise my ETSY patterns here,  but this set is one I'm fairly happy with and would like to share with you.

I made these originally because I was 'challenged' by my girls to make some really decent dinosaur toys.   They all love dinos and with three girls,  came three dinos.    Each one went to one of the girls... and fortunately,  there was no argument over who wanted what. (Thank the Gods for that small miracle,  cause usually there's a huge battle over who gets what  LOL)



You can find more pictures of the individual dinos and more information on their sizes etc by visiting:


 Dino Buddies Pattern

Sometimes momma does right.  This is one of the few times I managed to do that  :D

Monday, August 16, 2010

Charmander Plushie

Ok,  well.  After many requests I finally managed to get around to making a Charmander.  I know the pictures are terrible,  but hey  I'm not a photographer and neither my camera OR the weather are cooperating at the moment.    So it's inside photos for now y'all...  I'll try to get some other pics soon.

This pattern has two different 'versions'.   The one you see in the pictures,  with the open mouth,  and also instructions for the closed mouth  (which is a bit easier).   Read all the way through the pattern before starting,  so that you'll know which one you're going to do  :D

Should you find any problems or typos,  please let me know and I'll fix it as quickly as possible :D   As always,  if you have any questions,  feel free to ask I'll get back with ya as soon as I can!

Charmander

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in pumpkin (or similar color) and tan/natural
G hook
Fiberfill
Felt scraps in black, blue, white, yellow, red and orange
Sewing needle and thread in colors close to the felt colors
Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important on this project, as long as your choice of yarn and hook and your individual tension result in an even, firm stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

There are two ways to make this doll,  either with the open mouth (as shown)  or with a 'closed' mouth where you would add embroidered mouth features.  I'll include instructions for both types so that you can do the style you prefer.

HEAD/BODY:
(this is for the open mouth version of the head and body,  if you would prefer to make the 'closed mouth' version  (not shown in pictures)  begin with the alternate head and body below)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 11 sc,  Working in Front Loops only - 2 sc in each of next 10 sc,  Working now through both loops again -  sc in last 11 sc  (42)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 14:  sc in each of next 17 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat dec 3 more times,  for a total of 4 decreases) sc in each of last 17 sc of the round  (38)
Rnd 15:  sc in each of next 13 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (repeat dec 5 more times,  for a total of 6 decreases)  sc in each of last 13 sc of the round  (32)
Rnd 16:  sc in each next 10 sc,   chain 10,  skip next 12 sc,  sc in each of last 10 sc of the round  (20 sc, 10 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (when you reach the chains,  treat them exactly as you would sc stitches and continue the sc 3, dec) to end of round  (24)
Begin stuffing head at this point.  Stuff to 'nose' and mouth opening,  then continue stuffing as you progress.  Stuff firmly,  shaping nose and head/neck/body as you go.
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 22-24:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 25:  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (39)
Rnd 26-34:  sc in each sc around  (39)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 36:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 37:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 38:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 39:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the body shape.  Weave tail through final round and tug to close the hole. 

LOWER JAW:

Row 1:  Ch 9,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (8)
Row 2:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Row 4:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
Row 5:  dec over next 2 sc,  repeat decrease  (2)
F/O.

Attach yarn to a corner of Row 1.  Sc evenly around the sides and around the front to the opposite corner of Row1. 

F/O.   Weave in loose ends.  Cut a piece of red felt to fit just inside the lower jaw area,  and one to fit the 'upper' part of the mouth.   Using sewing thread and needle,  sew the felt to both parts.   If desired,  cut a small semi-oval of pink felt for the tongue and sew to the middle of the lower jaw.  Pin the lower jaw to the opening of the 'mouth' on the head/body piece.  Adjust to desired position.  Sew securely in position across the outside along the neck,  and also sew together the two pieces of felt inside the back of the mouth.  This might require some 'patience'  and little maneuvering  but take your time and recheck your positioning frequently while sewing to make sure you're maintaining the position you want.

If needed,  add more stuffing to shape out the mouth area.  Don't overstuff though,  or the inside of the mouth will pucker and bulge out.

Add two very tiny pieces of white felt for 'teeth' on upper and lower jaws.


ALTERNATE HEAD/BODY:
For the 'closed mouth' option:

Rnd 1-15:  same as for head/body above.
Rnd 16:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 5 more times for a total of six decreases)  sc in each of remaining 10 sc of the round  (26)
Rnd 17:  sc in each of next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat once more for a total of two decreases)  sc in each of remaining 11 sc of round  (24)
Rnd 18-40:  same as for head/body above.
Remember when stuffing to shape head/neck area while stuffing.  Don't make a 'lower jaw' for this version of the doll.


HANDS/ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  10 sc in magic ring  (10)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round -  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 3-6:  working again in both loops – sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around.  (12)
F/O.  Stuff arm moderately. 

FINGERS/CLAWS:

Attach yarn to one of the 'free loops' from round 2 of arm.  Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. 
F/O.   Weave in loose ends.

LEGS / FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Stuff * very * lightly at this point.  You only need enough stuffing to give the leg a little 'puff'.  You'll need for one side of the leg to be flat against the body,  so don't over-stuff as this will make the job of attaching the leg to the body difficult.
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Weave in ends. 

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Do not stuff.  Weave tail through final round of foot and tug to close.  Weave in ends.

TOES:

Method 1:
Attach white yarn between round 2 and 3 of foot.  Ch 3.  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2,  Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2 on the other side of center,   Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 2 and 3.  F/O,  weave in ends.

Method 2:
Cut the toe shapes from white felt and sew or glue to front of foot in position desired.

BELLY SPOT:
Using tan

While most of the doll can be made using either the joining method of rounds,  or the continuous method of making rounds,  this particular piece will not work well with continuous rounds.  It's highly recommended that you join each round with a slip stitch in the top of the first sc of that round,  Ch 1 and begin the new round in the same stitch as the joining slip stitch.

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring,  join  (8)
Rnd 2:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join (16)
Rnd 3:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in last sc,   join (24)
Rnd 4:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (32)
Rnd 5:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in last sc,  join  (44)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Pin to front of body centered evenly between arms and legs as shown.

TAIL:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around to last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Rnd 3-20:  repeat rnd 2 (increasing each round by one stitch)   (25)
Rnd 21:  sc in each sc around.
F/O and stuff tail moderately firm.

TAIL STRIPE:
Using tan:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  sc in second ch from hook  (1)
Row 2:  2 sc in sc  (2)
Row 3-4:  sc in each sc across (2)
Row 5:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 6-7:  sc in each sc across (3)
Row 8:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 9-10:   sc in each sc across  (4)
Row 11:  sc in first 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 12-13:   sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 14:  sc in first 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 15-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in first 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 18-19:  sc in each sc across (7)
Row 20:  sc in first 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Row 21-22:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 23:  sc in first 7 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (9)
Row 24-30:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 31:  sc in first 7 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Row 32:  sc in first 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (7)
Row 33:  sc in first 5 sc,  dec over last 2 sc, (6)
Row 34-38:  sc in each sc across  (6)

You may need to adjust the number of rows between 34-38  (either add or subtract)  to get your stripe to fit from tip of tail to just past the center of the bottom of the body.  It is recommended that you first pin and sew all the other body parts before making the tail stripe,  so that you'll have a definite length that will be easier to work with.

F/O and stuff tail moderately firm. 

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Arms are flattened on the open end and attached to the upper body as shown.  Pin them first so that you can be sure of the placement and position before sewing.

The Feet are sewn to bottom of leg as shown,  and the legs are attached to the lower body as shown.  Pin first to be sure of placement and position before sewing.

Tail is sewn to back of lower body.  Belly plate is sewing to center of front of body between arms and legs as shown.   Tail stripe is sewn to the underside of the tail,  with point at the tip of the tail,  and larger end just meeting up with the belly plate at the bottom of the lower body.

Tail flames are just different sizes of 'flame shapes'  cut from red, orange and yellow felt... placed together at slightly different angles and sewn together at the base of the flames,  then sewn to the top of the tip of the tail.  (see pics for help)

Eyes are cut from white felt,  then black,  with blue 'scoops' at the bottom.   Small white ovals create the 'catch lights' at the upper end of the eye  (it really helps to find some good pictures online,  and see how the eyes are done)

Eyebrow and nostrils are simply straight stitches with either black or dark brown yarn placed as shown  (here again,  a good picture from online will be very helpful with the placement of these features).  If you're making the closed mouth version,  you may wish to look again at some pictures to determine if you want to embroider a mouth and if you do,  what design to use. 

Charmander  and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Umbreon Plushie

 
 
Well,  after many *many* requests,  I finally did an Umbreon.  I know this will bring about an onslaught of requests for the other 'Eevee-lutions'  and yes I'll get to them all...  eventually :D    It just depends on my yarn stash,  my time and well --- motivation.  LOL
As with all the patterns,  if you have any problems or if you notice anything wrong in the pattern  (I'm prone to typos LOL)  let me know and I'll get back to ya as soon as I can :D

Umbreon

Materials:

WW Yarn black and yellow
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yellow, red, white and black felt scraps
Yarn Needle

BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 13: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (33)
Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (33)
Rnd 16: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 17-20: sc in each sc around (30)
This is a fairly good place to begin stuffing and shaping if you haven't already. Stuff fairly firmly while also shaping the body. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress.
Rnd 21: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (33)
Rnd 22: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 23-25: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 26: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 27: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 28: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 29: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 30: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping and weave the tail thread through the final round, pull gently to close up the small opening. Secure and weave in the tail yarn.

HEAD/NECK:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5-6: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 7: sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining 15 sc (33)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (33)
Rnd 9: sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc (35)
Rnd 10: sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 17 sc (36)
Rnd 11: sc in next 14 sc, * dec over next 2 sc *, repeat * * 3 more times, sc in remaining 14 sc (32)
Rnd 12: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 13: repeat rnd 12 (18)
Rnd 14: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc (20)
Rnd 15: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc (22)
Rnd 16: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc (24)
Stuff head firmly while shaping, pay particular attention to the 'nose' area. The head should be pinned to the upper portion of the body (roughly rnds 24-30) with nose area facing forward (the two 'points' of the neck shaping create the cape that create the gentle curve of the neckline. ) See photos to help with placement.

FRONT LEGS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)
Rnd 5: repeat Rnd 4 (8)
Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without overstuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 6-8: sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)
Row 11-12: sc in each sc around (12)
Do not fasten off at this point, continue with shoulder and either right or left leg instructions:

Begin Shoulder:
Right leg:
Row 13: sc in next 6 sc, leave remaining sc unworked, ch 1 and turn (6)
Row 14: sc in each sc across, ch 1 and turn  (6)
Row 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch 1 and turn (5)
Row 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)
F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that the 'inside' of the leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Complete rows 13 through 16 as described for right leg.
F/O.

BACK LEGS:

Rnd 1-5: Same as for front leg
Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (8)
Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without overstuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 8: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 10: Repeat rnd 8 (18)
11-12: sc in each sc around (18)
Do not fast off, continue with 'cape/shoulder' for either right or left leg:

Right Leg:

Row 1: Sc 9, leave remaining sc unworked, ch1 and turn (9)
Row 2: sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc,  ch1 and turn (8)
Row 3: sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn  (7)
Row 4: sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc,  ch1 and turn(6)
Row 5: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn (5)
Row 6: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc, (4)
F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that inside of leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Continue with shoulder as described for Right Leg.

EARS (make 2):

Begin with black:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)
Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)
Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around, change to yellow yarn in last sc of round, drop black to back of work but do not fasten off
Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around, change back to black yarn in last sc of round 9, cut yellow leaving a tail of several inches, (carry tail along with work for the first several stitches of the next round to secure it) (12)
Begin stuffing at this point, ears should be stuffed fairly firmly. Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 10-12: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)
Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finished out the shape of the ear.

Tail:

Begin with black:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)
Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)
Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 7-8, sc in each sc around, change to yellow yarn in last sc of round (15)
Begin stuffing at this point, tail should be stuffed fairly firmly. Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around, change to black in last sc of round 11, f/o yellow yarn (15)
Rnd 12-14: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (9)
Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)
Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (6)
F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finalize the shaping and weave in tail.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend that you pin all parts together before you begin to sew them, to make certain all parts are as you like and in the position you prefer.

Head is sewn to body as shown, take your time and pin the head on first, making sure that the neck is adequately stuffed, and that the 'nape' of the neck is positioned so as to create the curve of the neck. (See the pictures to help you position the head)

For the yellow markings, cut 5 oval shapes from yellow felt, then cut out the center of each to make the 'rings'. Pin one of them to the head, between the ears and slightly to the front. The other four are each sewn onto the 'shoulders' of the leg pieces. You can do this before you sew the legs to the body, but I would recommend that you first pin the legs in the positions you want on the body, and then pin the markings to the legs as you prefer them, then unpin the legs and sew on the markings (or you can wait to add the markings after sewing on the legs.)

When sewing the legs on, you will probably want to add a little stuffing under each 'shoulder'. Not much stuffing is generally required here, just enough to give a very slight 'roundness' to the shoulder/hip area – and make a smooth transition from leg to 'body'.

Ears and tail are positioned and sewn on as shown.

Eyes are cut from red and black felt scraps, in shapes as shown. Catch lights are very small pieces of white felt.

Umbreon and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...