All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D

All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Badtz Maru Plushie


Well I kinda did this guy on a lark.  I've been sort of feeling under the weather and resting alot this week, and decided to work on a smaller project that was just 'fun'.   So on the suggestion of a friend of mine, I made Badtz Maru.   

I didn't want to make him just 'sitting there'  and seeing that he's got such a cute and playful attitude - and he's well known for making faces,  I decided to make him sticking out his tongue  (cause it seemed to be a common pose for him and it made me laugh )

Hope you enjoy him,  it was just a little side project to keep me from being too bored :D


Materials:
WW yarn black, white and yellow
Fiberfill
G Hook
Yarn needle
Sewing thread to match yarn and sewing needle
small bits of felt in white, black and red

Notes:

Gauge isn't terribly important on this project, as long as your choice of yarn and hook and your individual tension result in an even, firm stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.


Head/Body:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 7- 17:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (32)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 21:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 22:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 23-28:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 29:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 30-32:  sc in each sc around  (48)
Rnd 33:  sc in  next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 34:  sc in each sc around  (36)
F/O.  Do not close opening.  Make sure head/body is stuffed and shaped well.

BOTTOM:

Row 1:  ch 15 ,   sc in second ch from hook and each chain across  (14)
Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across  (14)
EDGING:P  sc even around entire piece,  slip stitch to beginning sc to end.
F/O.  Weave in ends.

Place body bottom piece at opening of body.   Using black sewing thread and needle,  bring the body opening edges in to meet up with the 'bottom' piece.  Sewing together securely.  The stitches won't match up 'exactly'  that's ok,  just ease in the body edges to the bottom piece.  This should create a slightly narrow and flat bottom.  


WHITE BELLY DECORATION:

Row 1:  ch 2.  4 sc in second chain from hook  (do not join, turn) (4)
Row 2:  2 sc in each sc across  (turn)  (8)
Row 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  across (turn)   (12)
Row 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc across (turn)  (16)
Row 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc across  (turn)  (20)
Row 6.  Sc in each sc across,  do not turn,  ch 1 and begin sc evenly across 'bottom',  place last sc in side of first sc of row 6.  Ch1 turn
Row 7:  sc in each sc across,  
F/O weave in end.  Pin  and then sew to front of body as shown.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 9:  5 sc ,  turn
Rnd 10:  4 sc turn
Rnd 11:  3 sc.
F/O.  Stuff and weave in ends.

BEAK:

Rnd 1:  Ch 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain to end,  turn work around and now working down other side of starting chain,  sc in each free loop to end.  Slip stitch to first sc  (10)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (16)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (16)
F/O,  weave in end.    Cut piece of red felt in the tongue shape desired,  place in between the two 'open' ends of the beak.  Flatten and match edges.  Sew through all layers.  Secure thread and weave loose ends.   (add a touch of detail with some black thread on the tongue as shown)

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic circle  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 5:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Foot isn't stuffed just flattened.


'HAIR'  SPIKES (make 4):
Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (10)
F/O.  Stuff 'tails' into spike  (add a tiny bit of fiberfill if you like to help shape the spikes)


TAIL:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
F/O and weave ends.  Don't stuff.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all parts to the doll as shown (or as desired).   Once you're satisfied with the look,  sew all your parts to the dolls securely.    I put the arms on either side of the body,  where the head/body meet and positioned them to where they are 'pulling' on the beak from either side.  

Tail is added just under the backside of the body  (I don't know if Badtz actually *has* a tail,  but the way I ended up  doing the bottom part of the body to get the shape I wanted,  it was off balance with only the feet,  so the 'tail'  is the third point of support and makes it to where he'll sit up on his own)

Eyes are made from scraps of felt with tiny dots  of black felt (a sequin will work here too) .

Have fun with this one,  the best part of Badtz Maru,  is his irreverent attitude and wild child personality.  :D



Badtz Maru is a SANRIO character and is © of its creators.   This crochet pattern is © of Linda Potts (September 2010) and may not be copied, reprinted or added to any website or collection.  You may link to this pattern if you like,  or print a copy of it for your personal use ONLY.  No items made from this pattern may be sold for profit.  

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Lugia Plushie




Ok y'all.  Here he is.  Lugia.

I'm sorry that my pics are always crummy,  but hey,  I'm not a photographer  LOL and I'm stuck with really old cameras that don't work unless they feel like it.

This doll ain't for the faint of heart.   It's better suited to experienced crocheters with a few serious dolls under their belts!   

He's larger than all the other pokemon I've made in the past and a little more difficult as well.   

I try to explain everything as well as I can in the pattern instructions,  just take it one step at a time and I'll try to help you as much as I can...  just post if you have any questions!   I've been sick all week,  and typing this wasn't easy while feeling so badly,  so if you find anything that's wrong, out of place or just plain confusing - that's probably why - and let me know I'll fix it!

Ok guys,  here goes.... and good luck! :D


MATERIALS:

WW yarn in white (at least a full skein) medium blue and dark blue
G hook
Fiberfill
Embroidery thread
Small pieces of felt in white and black
Sewing thread to match colors
Yarn Needle
Heavy Gauge wire for wings (optional)


NOTES:

Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual tension result in a firm consistent stitch that won't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

Lugia is one of the pokemon whose original 2-D design is not particularly well suited to 'plushie' form. He will be unbalanced. This doll is probably best designed to be suspended with fishing line or other 'invisible' material from a shelf or ceiling as opposed to 'sitting'. You can try weighing down his backside, but the wing structure will still be a nightmare. Some may be able to construct a wire frame for the inside of the wings that will help hold them out, but the sheer weight of the wings is still going to pull heavily on the sides of the body causing it to deform over time.

Typically, I join my rounds when making dolls. If you're more comfortable with using continuous rounds, by all means go ahead, however, in this particular doll you may have some issues with the continuous rounds when working the 'wings'. If at all possible, you should probably join your rounds at least when crocheting the wings in this pattern.

Be prepared to fiddle and fuss a bit with constructing this doll. As I said, it's not an easy one to make, but it DOES work. This pattern isn't well suited for a toy that will be 'played with'... it's best used for display purposes only.


Lugia's HEAD/BODY and TAIL are all crocheted as a single unit.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 4: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 3 sc in last sc (18)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 6: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16 sc, 3 sc in last sc (22)
Rnd 7: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 10 sc (24)
Rnd 8-12: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Stuff head at this point. Stuff firmly and shape while stuffing (this is your only chance to shape the head, so make sure you're happy with it before going on). Continue stuffing neck, body and tail as you progress through the pattern, just make sure that you have the shape you want as you stuff. The neck needs careful attention, as it needs to be stuffed quite firmly (particularly where it joins the head and the body) in order to keep it from 'lolling' later on.
Rnd 14-16: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15)
Rnd 18-26: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 27: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 29: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (21)
Rnd 31: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 32: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 33: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 35: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 36: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 37: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 38: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 39: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 40-50: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 51: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)
Rnd 52: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 53: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 54: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 55: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 56: sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 57: sc in next 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, dec over last 2 sc (28)
Rnd 58: sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 59: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, dec over last 2 sc (26)
Rnd 60: sc in each sc around (26)
Rnd 61: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc, dec over last 2 sc (24)
Rnd 62: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 63: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (22)
Rnd 64: sc in each sc around (22)
Rnd 65: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc, dec over last 2 sc (20)
Rnd 66: sc in each sc around (20)
Rnd 67: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc, dec over last 2 sc (18)
Rnd 68: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 69: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc (16)
Rnd 70: sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 71: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14)
Rnd 72: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 73: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)
Rnd 74: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 75: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)
Rnd 76: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 77: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)
Rnd 78: sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 79: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)
Rnd 80: sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 81: dec over next 2 sc around (3)


HEAD CREST:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)
Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)
Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18)
F/O and weave in ends.
You can add a tiny bit of stuffing here if you wish to create more of a rounded crest for the head,
Or you can flatten the crest and pin in place to back of head in position desired (use photos for help with placement)

WINGS (make2):

(If you wish to add a wire frame to the wings, you will need to plan that frame to be introduced before crocheting the fingers. I recommend a wire frame that will go from wing tip to wing tip, through the 'body' of the doll. Otherwise, you won't have the needed strength to hold up these heavier wings. If you're going to be suspending the doll in the air, then the wire frame can be omitted, because you can use the strings as a way to 'position' your wings as if in flight)
Rnd 1: Chain 7. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn work and working down the 'unused' side of the foundation chain, sc in the same chain as the last sc of other side, and each remaining chain across. Join to first sc with slip stitch. (12 sc)
Rnd 2-6: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14)
Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 9: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 11: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (21)
Rnd 15: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 19: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 23: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 24-26: sc in each sc around (40)
Do not fasten off.



Begin first 'finger':
Flatten wing 'end' – matching up your sc stitches. You will be working through only one 'side' at a time, but using both sides for each finger.

Rnd 1: sc in next 5 sc. Turn work so that other side is now facing you, sc in next 5 sc of the other side of the wing (what was the last 5 sc of the previous round) and join with slip stitch to first sc of 'finger'
(10 sc)
Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around, joining each round with slip stitch in first sc around (10)
Flatten end of 'finger'. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.
F/O. Weave in ends.

Remaining Fingers:

Attach yarn to first stitch immediately to 'left' of finger just completed. Sc in same stitch as joining and complete same as rounds 1-8 of first finger.

For 'thumb'.

Rnd 1: Chain 6. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn and working down other side of foundation, sc in each chain across. Sl St to first sc of round (10)
Rnd 2-10: sc in each sc around (10)
Flatten end of thumb. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.
F/O. Weave in ends.
Pin and sew thumb to wing on underside, just below and between first and second finger.
Wings were not stuffed.

Wings are attached to side of body near base of neck as shown. Just pin for now.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 6: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (27)
Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (27)
Rnd 10: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 11: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)
Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (12)
Stuff leg moderately. Leave opening. F/O weave in ends.
FOOT (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)
Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)
Stuff foot moderately, but not too much. Just enough to allow it to hold the shape you desire. Using white thread, create the 'toes' by taking three large whipstitches over the 'ends' of the feet. Go back and do the same with black thread to create the 'toes'.
Sew the foot to end of leg as shown.

BELLY DECORATION:

Using medium blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Begin points:

Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, turn (8)
Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)
Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (4)
Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc, turn (2)
Row 5: dec over 2 sc (1)
F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to first stitch to immediate left of point just made, sc in same stitch as joining and complete second point same as for first:

Attach yarn to any stitch along side of plate. Sc in same stitch as joining, and evenly around outside – using three sc in the tip of each 'point'. Join with sl st to top of first sc made.

F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to body over chest/stomach area.

PLATES ALONG BACK (make 10):

Using darker blue:

Chain 7. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (6)
Rows 2&3: sc in each sc across (6)
F/O and weave in ends.

SPIKES ON TAIL:

Using darker blue:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)
Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)
Rnd 3: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (5)
Rnd 4: sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 5: sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (7)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (7)
F/O and stuff very lightly. Pin to tail as shown.

EYE FEATHER (make 2):

Chain 11. Slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip stitch in last chain. Turn work and working back up the other side of the foundation chain: slip stitch in same ch as last slip stitch, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in next 2, slip stitch in last.
F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to head as shown in photos.

ASSEMBLY:

All parts need to be pinned to the doll's body before sewing any on. With a doll this large, it's really important you get everything just the way you want it :D

Figuring out the part placement isn't very hard (especially after what you've been through already LOL), just refer to the photos and get everything the way you want ! Then you can sew it all down.

Eyes are cut from pieces of felt in the shapes shown. Mouth is embroidered on last.


Lugia and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Snorlax Plushie


Well,  after many requests,  I finally made Snorlax.  (I know he's not blue,  but in my fire-red game he's a deep olive green, and I didn't have the right blue for him  LOL).  You of course,  can make him any color you like  :D

I posted only this one picture of him,  because frankly,  that's pretty much everything there is.  The pattern is pretty straightforward,  with maybe a little fancy footwork on the face part,  but it's very easy really.

I made mine in the sitting position because he fits on the shelf better that way (and I couldn't see his little face if he was laying down up there).   But of course,  you can make him in any position that pleases you.  As usual I'm not really happy with his face,  but faces have always been the bane of existence.  I know y'all will do better on the face than I did  :D

As always,  if you have any trouble, have a question or find a problem in the pattern,  let me know and I'll get back to you ASAP.


Snorlax

MATERIALS:
WW yarn in your main color (green in example) and lighter color (tan in example) and a few yards of white for claws and 'toenails'
G hook
Fiberfill
Needle and thread to match yarn colors
Small bits of med brown felt (or yarn of similar color)
small amount of black embroidery thread

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important as long as your choice of yarn, hook and your individual tension result in a consistently firm stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.

I join my rounds, but if you're most comfortable working in continuous rounds, then that's fine too.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

BODY:

Begin with lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around, change to main color in last sc of round (64)
Rnd 9-17: sc in each sc around (64)
Rnd 18: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56)
Rnd 19: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 20: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 21: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 23: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)
Rnd 24: dec over next 2 sc around (8)
F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping. Weave tail through final round and tug gently to close. Secure and weave in end.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7-14: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
You can begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress.
Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (24)
F/O. Do not close neck opening. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping.

EARS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

FACE INSET:

Using lighter color:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 8 sc,   2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 4 sc, sc in next 6 sc (40)
First point:
Sc in next 6 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)
Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)
Decrease over all three sc in row (1)
F/O. Weave in end.
Second point:
Attach yarn to next sc next to first point. Ch 1. sc in same stitch as joining, sc in next 5 sc. Ch1 turn (turning chain does not count as first sc of next row) (6)
Dec over next 2 sc, repeat twice more (3)
Decrease over all three sc in row (1)
F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to any sc (except either of the 'points). Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. Sc evenly around, putting 3 sc in each of the 'points'. Join to first sc with slip stitch. F/O.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 11-13: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 15-16: sc in each sc around. (12)
Stuff moderately firmly while shaping.
Rnd 17: Flatten end. Working through all layers, sc across end. (6)
F/O and weave in end.

CLAWS:
(using white)

Attach yarn between rows 2 and 3 of arm. Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch between rows 1 and 2.
Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in nearest side of center of beginning rnd (this may require a little manipulation).
Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch on other side of center of beginning rnd. (again, may require some manipulation.)
Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 1 and 2.
Ch 3. Slip stitch in second chain from hook. Sc in next chain. Slip stitch in between rows 2 and 3.
F/O and weave in ends.

(Alternately, you can cut a piece of white felt in a strip with five small points and sew to end of arm)

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of next 8 sc, sc in last 12 sc (40)
Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 10: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 7 more times, for a total of 8 decreases) sc in last 12 sc (32)
Rnd 11: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around, change to main color in last sc of round. (16)
Rnd 13: working in front loops only for this round, sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (16)
F/O and weave in end. Stuff foot moderately firm while shaping. Stuff leg moderately.

TOENAILS (make 6):

Using white:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)
Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)
F/O. Trim ends to about 2 inches or so and stuff them inside the 'nail'. This is probably all the stuffing you'll need for these.
Sew three toenails on the top side of each foot (as shown). Cut a circle of the medium brown felt and sew to the center of the foot (as shown).

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all the parts together before you sew them on. This gives you the opportunity to 'play' with positioning, and make small adjustments.

Face inset is sewn to head as shown. Ears are sewn to top of head placed as shown. Head is sewn to body (if making him in a sitting position, you may wish to consider having his head tilt down and to the side as if he'd just dozed off).

Arms are sewn to the sides of the body near where the head is sewn on.

Legs are sewn to body either in sitting position or in sleeping position.

Facial features are simply embroidered with black thread. Two tiny triangles are the 'fangs'.

Snorlax and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

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