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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Terriormon Plushie



Well,  I took a bit of a detour.  Digimon are big around this house,  and Terriormon is first up.  This doll is probably going to require two skeins of white (but you should have left overs)  and about half a skein of the green color.

I hope to get some other digimon characters done too, it's a nice change from the Pokemon (although I still have plans to make some more of those, don't worry!).

If you have any problems with the pattern,  post or email me,  I'll get back with you asap  (and as always,  if you find an issue with the pattern,  which can happen,  let me know so I can fix it  :)



MATERIALS:

WW yarn in (2 skeins)white and (1 skein)medium green
G Hook
Fiberfill
Felt in black, dark red and pink (with tiny scraps for catchlights in the eyes)
Sewing needle and thread
Fabric Glue (optional)

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important to this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual tension result in a stitch that is fairly firm and doesn't allow the fiberfil to show through

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

It's highly recommended that you read through the pattern completely before beginning to familiarize yourself with the entire process.

BODY

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (24)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (32)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (40)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (48)
Rnd 7-20: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 21: * sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (40)
Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (40)
If you haven't started stuffing yet, do so now. Stuff firmly and shape body as you progress. Continue to stuff firmly and shape as you go along.
Rnd 23: * sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (32)
Rnd 24: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 25: * sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (24)
Rnd 26: sc in each sc around (24)
F/O and finish stuffing (slightly overstuff neck opening to prevent sagging later) Weave in ends (neck opening is not closed)


HEAD

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (24)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (32)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (40)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat * to * around (48)
Rnd 7: * sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc * repeat * to * around (56)
Rnd 8-18: sc in each sc around (56)
Rnd 19: * sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (48)
If you haven't started stuffing yet, do so now. Stuff firmly and shape the head as you progress. Continue to stuff firmly and shape as you go along.
Rnd 20: * sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (40)
Rnd 21: * sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (32)
Rnd 22: * sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (24)
Rnd 23: * sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat * to * around (16)
F/O and add any stuffing needed to firmly shape the head. Pin neck opening of head to the slightly overstuffed neck opening of the body.

FEET/LEGS:

Beginning with the green:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) (9)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) Change to white yarn in last sc of round.(12)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) (15)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 7: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) (18)
Begin 'hip' structure (working now in rows)
Row 1: sc in each of next 9 sc (leave remaining sc unworked). Chain 1 and turn (9)
Row 2: dec over first two sc, sc across to final two sc, dec over last two sc. Chain 1 and turn (7)
Row 3: dec over first two sc, sc across to final two sc, dec over last two sc. Chain 1 and turn (5)
Row 4: dec over first two sc, sc across to final two sc, dec over last two sc. Chain 1 and turn (3)
F/O. Stuff firmly while shaping. Weave in ends.

ARMS:

Beginning with the green:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) (9)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (repeat twice more) Change to white yarn in last sc of round.(12)
Rnd 4-12: Sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 13: HDC in each of next 6 sc. Leave all remaining sc unworked. (6)
F/O. Stuff lightly. (arms shouldn't be stuffed too firmly or they won't position properly). Weave in ends.

KERCHIEF:

Chain 26. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (25)
Turn your work and slip stitch back across 6 sc. Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as last slip stitch. Sc in each sc across until there are six sc left. Leave those final six sc's unworked. Chain 1 and turn.

Dec over first 2 sc of row. Sc across to end of row. Chain 1 and turn.

Repeat last row till two sc remain. Dec over final 2 sc.

F/O and weave ends.

NOTE: It is possible you will need to adjust the number of starting chains to accommodate the neck space of your doll (by chaining more or less). It's helpful to pin the arms in place and 'test' your kercheif before fastening off the yarn. Everyone crochet's a little differently, so you may need to adjust this portion to fit your tension/style of crochet.

EARS (make 2):

Staring with white:

Rnd 1: Chain 26. Join chain to form a ring (being careful not to twist your chain). Sc in each chain around, join with slip stitch to first sc. (26)
Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (26)
Rnd 3: sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (28)
Rnd 4-6: sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 7: sc in each of next 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 13 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (30)
Rnd 8-10: sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 11: sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (32)
Rnd 12-14: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 15: sc in each of next 15 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 15 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (34)
Rnd 16-18: sc in each sc around (34)
Rnd 19: sc in each of next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc; sc in each of next 16 sc, 2 sc in last sc of round (36)
Rnd 20-42: sc in each sc around ; change to green in last sc of round 42 (36)
Rnd 43-46: sc in each sc around (36)
Do not fasten off and ears are not stuffed:

Begin points:

1: Sc in next 6 sc. Working on other side of 'opening', sc in the 6 sc immediately opposite of the 6 you just did (essentially, the last sc in the round). Slip stitch to first sc (12)
2: sc in each sc around (12)
3: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc (10)
4: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8)
5: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc (6)
6: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc (4)
7: Dec over 2 sc, dec over 2 sc (2)
8: Dec over last two remaining sc. 
F/O and weave in end.

Next 2 points :

Attach yarn immediate to the left of base row of the previous point. Repeat rounds 1-8 of first point.


STRIPES FOR EARS (make four):

Chain 13, 5 HDC in 3rd chain from hook and each chain to last chain. 5 HDC in last chain. Working back down the opposite side of the foundation chain, HDC in each free loop. Slip stitch to first HDC of Round.
F/O and weave in ends

Place and pin the stripes to the outer sides of the ears as shown. When pleased with placement, sew securely in place. (I recommend using sewing thread and needle to prevent unwanted bulk around edges)


HORN:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
F/O.

TAIL:

Row 1: Chain 6. sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across (5)
Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across (4)
Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across (3)
Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, sc across (2)
Row 5: dec over the remaining 2 sc (1)
F/O. Weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all parts together as shown (or as preferred). When fully satisfied with placement of parts, securely sew all parts together.   The tail is placed in the place tails normally go,  LOL.  I just wasn't able to get a picture of his backside.

Cut pieces of felt for face features and sew (or glue) into place.

Cut long, thin strips of felt that are slightly wider at one end. Glue (or sew) three of these to each foot/hand for the claws. Trim to length desired. (widest end should be the part that's glued or sewn to the foot/hand part)

Using needle and dark brown or black thread, whipstitch several times for nose.

DIGIMON and TERRIORMON are copyright of their original creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 


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