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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Pincushion Ring

My oldest daughter decided to make herself a neat little 'traveling sewing kit' from a tin box that originally held some candy. She painted it, and added some really cute graphics and then put in a magnet strip to hold her pins and needles. After a bit, we realized she needed a small pincushion to use when she was making her emergency repairs. (being avid hunter and campers and traveling quite a bit, these things are often needed).

So I devised her a pincushion in the form of a ring, that fit in her box, and also was functional when she needed it. She wanted it to resemble a robin's egg in a nest and this is what we came up with.

It came out really cute (and functional) so I thought I would share the pin cushion pattern with you. :)



Here are the closeups of the pin cushion and the pattern for it is below. (Please excuse my wrinkly and un-manicured hand, lol.)


And here's the pattern for the ring pincushion. I just typed this out, so if you find anything confusing or any typoes or such, please let me know!

PinCushion Ring

Materials:

#10 Crochet thread in Robin's Egg Blue and Milk Chocolate Brown
Size 7 steel crochet hook
Fiberfill (or a couple of cotton balls)
Plastic from a milk jug or water bottle
Small piece of elastic (to fit around your finger)

Note:

I wouldn't leave out the step of adding the plastic to the pin cushion. That's what will stop the pins/needles from going through the cushion and stabbing your hand. Any hard plastic will work, I used a bit of a milk jug for it and it worked perfectly and is easily cut with any good pair of scissors.

If you use a different size of thread or a different size of hook, you will need to make the 'base' circle first, then use that circle to determine the size of plastic disc you will need. Using the materials listed above, a quarter is the perfect size to use to cut your circle of plastic.

On this pattern I chose to join each round with a slip stitch to the first sc of the round. If you are more comfortable working in continuous rounds, by all means do so.


Base Circle

Using blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

F/O.

Top/Dome

Using blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6-8: sc in each sc around (40)

F/O. (this part is going to appear to be much larger than the base, don't worry, it will fit)

Using a quarter as a guide, draw a circle on the milk jug plastic and cut out (make sure it's from a flat portion of the jug).

Sew the dome to the base in the back loops of the last rounds (leaving a 'free' loop to the outside of the rim). Insert the plastic disc to rest on the base circle and begin stuffing the 'dome'. As you continue to sew up the pieces, continue to add stuffing. When you have just a few stitches left to sew up, use a yarn needle or toothpick to ensure that the dome is very firmly stuffed and close up the cushion.

Frill:

Attach the brown thread to one of the 'free loops' at the base of the dome part of the cushion and ch 1. Sc in the same loop as you attached the thread, 2 sc in the next free loop, sc in next free loop. Repeat all the way around.

next round: ch 3, skip one sc, sc in next sc. *ch 3, skip one sc, sc in next sc* repeat from * to * around to first sc. Sl st to first sc and then into the first ch 3 loop.

next round: Sc in same ch 3 loop, ch 4, sc in next ch3 loop. *ch 4, sc in next ch 3 loop* repeat around and sl st to first sc.

F/O

Weave in all ends.

Taking elastic piece, sew to the flat bottom of the cushion checking to see that it will fit snugly around your finger (but not so tight that it's uncomfortable). Use the pictures as a guide.


This pattern is an original pattern copyright by Linda Potts (June 2009). You may link to this pattern. Please do not sell or repost this pattern as your own.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Torchic Plushie



Well Torchic is finished. I can't begin to tell you how many requests I've had for this one. :)

The pictures are a little bright, but I'm at the mercy of the Texas summer sun and I've yet to find the dimmer switch on that sucker LOL. I wish I could, the heat and drought are about to really put the whammy on all my plants (the jasmines in the background were drooping terribly when I took those pictures today)

Anyway, pattern is here... I still don't have a pattern tester, so if you find anything wrong or have any questions, just let me know and I'll get back as soon as I can :)


Torchic

Materials:

WW yarn in organge and gold (I used RedHeart SS in Pumpkin and Gold)
F Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn needle
Small amounts of black and white felt for eyes

Notes:

Gauge isn't important, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a fairly tight stitch so that the fiberfill won't poke through.

The numbers at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in each round/row.


HEAD:

Using Orange:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (52)
Rnd 8-14: sc in each sc around (52)
Rnd 15: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)
Rnd 16: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 17: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)


F/O and stuff firmly, shaping as you stuff. Do not close opening.


BODY:

Using Orange:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)
Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 16: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (16)

F/O and stuff firmly, shaping as you stuff. Do not close opening.


FEET:

Make 4 using Gold:
(do not chain 1 before turning on each row, work first sc in the last sc of previous row)

Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next sc (2)
Row 2-4: sc in ea\ch sc (2)
Row 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each remaining sc across (3)
Row 6: sc in each sc across (3)
Row 7: repeat row 5 (4)
Row 8: repeat row 6 (4)
Row 9: repeat row 5 (5)
Row 10: repeat row 6 (5)
Row 11: repeat row 5 (6)
Row 12: Ch 5, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 chs. Skip 1 sc of row 11, sl st in next sc. One toe made. Ch 5 (repeat sequence for a total of three 'toes') Put last sl st in the outside loop of the sc on the end of row 11.

F/O

Sew together two feet using a whipstitch.

BEAK:

Using Gold:

Rnd 1: 5 sc in Magic Ring (5)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 4: sc in next 7 sc, in next sc work sc, hdc, sc, sc in last 7 sc (16 sc, 1 hdc)

F/O leave tail for sewing on to head later. Don't stuff.


TAIL:

Using orange:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 4: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14)

F/O Stuff very lightly, leave opening.


FLAME HEADDRESS:

(Gold base flames, make 2 small and one large)

SMALL:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (8)
Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (8)

LARGE:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 7: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (10)
Rnd 8: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (8)
Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (8)

Arranging the flame bases with the large piece in the middle and the two smaller pieces on each side, sew together at the bottom of the pieces. Draw tighter until they resemble the picture. Fasten well. (some additional tacking may be necessary further up the pieces to get the look desired) You may want to *lightly* stuff the base pieces, I didn't, but it may work better for you)

FLAME ACCENT:

Using orange, make 2:

Row 1: Ch 4. Sc in in 2nd ch from hook, and each ch across (do not chain 1, turn) (3)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc across (turn) (6)
Row 3: Ch 4. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc next ch, hdc in last ch. Sk 1 sc in row 2, sl st in next sc. Ch 4. Repeat sequence for total of three 'spikes' for flame accent.

F/O

Placing the accent piece in the center of the front as shown in the pictures, sew to the base flames.


WING/FEATHERS:

Using Gold, make 4:

Row 1: Ch 4. sc in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch across. turn (3)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc across. turn (6)
Row 3: 2 sc in each sc across. turn (12)
Row 4: Ch 4. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch. Sk 2 sc in row 3, sl st in next sc of row 3. Repeat sequence to end for total of 4 points.

F/O.

Tack the 4 'wings' to the body at the neck opening as shown in pictures. There should be a gap/opening at the front of the body. Overlapping is perfectly fine, it creates the 'ruffling' effect.


FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend first pinning all the pieces together to ensure you have them where you want before sewing together. Begin by sewing the head to the body matching up the neck openings and keeping the wing/feathers as you tacked them down. Add feet to the bottom as shown, leaving the front 'toes' and the back 'claw' loose. Sew tail to back side centered between the feet. Sew beak to head as shown in the picture centering it to the 'gap' of the feathers in the front. Add the flame headdress to the top center of the head, sewing it firmly in place as shown.

Cut two oval shapes from black felt for eyes and sew/glue them in place as shown. Add two tiny circles of white felt to the eyes for 'catch lights' as shown.



Torchic character and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (June 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
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