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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Natu Plushie


Natu is a cute pokemon,  he has these big eyes like a night-hawk that were very hard to get right lol.  I tried to make the wings all crochet,  but it just wouldn't work at this size,  I would have to make him much bigger to get that to work,  so his wing details are felt strips instead.

As always,  if you have any troubles with him,  or find anything wrong in the pattern,  let me know :)

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in green, yellow, light red
G Hook
Scraps of felt in white and black
Fiberfill

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important,  just ensure that your hook and yarn sizes result in a fairly tight stitch that won't allow the fiberfil to show thru.

Numbers at the end of rounds/rows indicate the total number of stitches that should be in the round/row.

BODY:  Using green:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around  (49)
Rnd 8-14:  sc in each sc around  (49)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (35)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (28)

Being stuffing at this point and continue as you go along.

Rnd 18:  sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around  (21)
Rnd 19:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (14)
Rnd 20:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)

F/O leaving a tail and then using chopstick or back of crochet hook,  finish adding any stuffing you need and shape to a ball.  Weave in the tail and pull to close.

WINGS:

Begin with yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (9)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 3-5:  sc in each sc around  (in last sc of rnd 5,  change to light red yarn and then join round) (18)
Rnd 6-11:  sc in each sc around
Rnd 12:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)

Cut six strips of black felt  approx 1/4 inch wide and 5 inches long.   Using photos as a guide,  glue/sew the strips of felt to the wings as shown.

CREST:

Using light red:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2-10:  sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc
F/O.


BEAK:

Using yellow:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (18)
F/O.

FEET:

Make 4 using light red:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  * Ch 5,  sc 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs,  sc in next sc*  repeat * to * once more, 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc, Ch 5,  hdc 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in last sc
F/O and weave in ends

Place two of the 'feet' together with the wrong sides to the inside,  sew together with a whipstitch round the sides,  using a piece of the light red yarn and a yarn needle.

LEG: 

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  working in Back Loops Only,  sc in each sc round  (6)
Rnd 3:  working now through both loops,  sc in each sc around  (6)
F/O.

Sew the leg to the foot as shown in photo,  with the open side of the leg facing up.  Stuff leg firmly.

TAIL:

Row 1:  ch 3,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch  (2)
Row 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 3:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 4:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 5:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 6:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 7-9:  sc in each sc across.
F/O and weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY:

Using photos as reference assistance for placing parts...  crest is sewn to head just slightly back from center.  Legs are sewn to body at bottom.  Wings are sewn to sides as shown.  Tail is sewn to lower center of back.  Sew 2 of the tail pieces next  to each other,  then one piece centered over the two.  Beak is sewn to face as shown.

Eyes are made as shown,  by cutting an almond shape from white felt and circles from black.  (Use paper first and pin the paper to the doll's face to make sure you get the size of eye shape you want).   Once eyes are sewn or glued to face as desired,  cut two very small circles of white felt and glue/sew to eyes as shown for catch lights.

Finally,  cut four elongated triangles from white felt and sew to the 'toes' for talons.


Natu and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (September 2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Pink HandWarmers

This pattern was a special request from one of my deviantART friends.   I designed these quite some time ago for my 15 year old daughter,  well I designed about a dozen different hand warmers for her,  since she wears them all the time so I have many patterns for these.

I like wearing hand warmers too,  I have severe rheumatoid arthritis and the added warmth from wearing these (especially when I'm sleeping)  keeps my hands from getting as stiff or sore.... Now if I could just figure out a way to make a 'hip warmer' for my left hip  LOL


Hand Warmers

These hand warmers fit a small adult or teenager's hand.  You can increase the overall size by increasing the number of rows at the wrist/cuff.  Then simply follow the pattern (adding the appropriate number of stitches to the ( ) at the end of each row.

For instance,  if you increase the wrist/cuff size by 2 rows,  then the number of stitches at the beginning of the 'hand' portion will increase by two,  the total number of stitches in the increase rows will increase by two.

After making a few of these,  you get a good feeling for the pattern's 'theory'  and can easily increase or decrease the sizes as you need them.

Using a G hook and your favorite WW yarn :

Wrist/Cuff

Row 1:  ch 6,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining chs,  (5)
Row 2,  working in back loops only,  sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 3-28:  repeat row 2  (5)
Do not fasten off.  Bring both ends of the cuff together and slip stitch carefully to end of the row.  Turn and work 28 sc evenly around the cuff,  (one sc in the end of each row),  join the round to the first sc

You now have a 'ring'  with a total of 28 sc topping of your ribbed cuff.  You will need to join your rounds with a slip stitch in the first sc of each round,  then Ch 1 to begin next round

Right hand warmer:

Rnd 1:  sc in same sc as join and each sc around  (28)
Rnd 2:  sc in same sc as join,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,   2 sc in next to last sc, and sc in last sc of round,  join and ch 1  (30)
Rnd 3:  repeat round 1  (30)
Rnd 4:  repeat round 2  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  repeat round 1  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 22 sc,  ch 4,  skip 8 sc,  sc in last 2 sc  (24 sc,  4 ch )
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc and each ch around,  (28)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 15:  sc in first sc, * ch 2,  skip one sc,  sc in next sc *,  repeat from * to *  around,  end with ch2 and slip stitch in first sc.
Rnd 16:  slip stitch to ch 1 sp.    ch 3,  slip stitch in next ch 1 sp,  * ch 2,  slip stitch in  next ch 1 sp *, repeat from * to * 1 more time.    Try on the hand warmer  (make sure you put it on the right hand)  look and see where the 'finger loop' will need to be  (it's different for each person),  mark that sp,  and continue around  as before  to marked space,  sc in that space,  ch 11,  sc in same space,  ch 2 and continue to end of round,  end with ch 2 and slip stitch in first slip stitch.
F/O and weave in ends.

Left hand warmer:

Work cuff as above.

Rnd 1:  sc in same sc as join and each sc around  (28)
Rnd 2:  sc in same sc as join,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in each sc around to last 2 sc,   2 sc in next to last sc, and sc in last sc of round,  join and ch 1  (30)
Rnd 3:  repeat round 1  (30)
Rnd 4:  repeat round 2  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  repeat round 1  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 2 sc,  ch 4,  skip 8 sc,  sc in last 22 sc  (24 sc,  4 ch )
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc and each ch around,  (28)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around (28)
Rnd 15:  sc in first sc, * ch 2,  skip one sc,  sc in next sc *,  repeat from * to *  around,  end with ch2 and slip stitch in first sc.
Rnd 16:  slip stitch to ch 1 sp.    ch 3,  slip stitch in next ch 1 sp,  * ch 2,  slip stitch in  next ch 1 sp *, repeat from * to * 1 more time.    Try on the hand warmer  (make sure you put it on the left hand)  look and see where the 'finger loop' will need to be  (it's different for each person),  mark that sp,  and continue around  as before  to marked space,  sc in that space,  ch 11,  sc in same space,  ch 2 and continue to end of round,  end with ch 2 and slip stitch in first slip stitch.
F/O and weave in ends.

If you find you have any problems with this pattern feel free to email me or post a message here,  I'll get back to you as soon as I possibly can  :)

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (2009).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.  Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.
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