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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

JIGGLYPUFF with pattern


This is the Jigglypuff I made for the kids. I ended up using a virgin wool (cause it's the only pink color I had) and I don't like making 3D pieces in wool because it's inconsistent and a bit stretchy to work with. I'll have to remake one at some point in good acrylic yarn. I thought about making the microphone, but I was too tired ... I'll probably do that next time.

As usual, if anything isn't right, or confusing, let me know and I'll fix it as soon as I can.

So... here's the pattern for Jigglypuff :)


JIGGLYPUFF

Materials:
WW yarn in a soft pink or light rose
Fiberfill
Scraps of black, white, blue and red felt
Sewing threads to match the felt colors
Sewing needle
Yarn needle
Size F hook

NOTES:
I tend to prefer to join my rounds when I work, but if you prefer to use continuous rounds and stitch markers, that's also good. Whatever is most comfortable for you.

Gauge isn't really important, as long as the hook, yarn and your tension result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing doesn't show thru.

The numbers in ( ) at the end of each row or round is the total number of stitches that should be in that row or round.


BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54)

Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)

Rnd 11-19: sc in each sc around (60)

Rnd 20: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (54)

Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 22: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 23: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 24: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 25: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Being stuffing at this point and continue as you go along.

Rnd 26: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 27: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 28: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O leaving tail for closing. Add any more stuff needed to create a nice ball shape. Weave tail through the last round worked and pull to close.


ARMS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2-3: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 5-7: Sc in each sc around (9)

F/O


FEET:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 5-9: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 11: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O (feet are not stuffed, but flattened out)


CURL:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 9: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 11: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 12: repeat rnd 10 (12)

Begin 'top' of curl:

Row 13: sc in next 7 sc, leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn. (7)

Row 14: sc in each sc across (7)

Row 15: skip first sc, sc in remaining sc across (6)

Row 16: skip first sc, sc in remaining sc across (5)

F/O


EARS:

Make 4:

Row 1: ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch. In next ch work hdc, ch 1, hdc. Sc in last 2 ch.

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc up to the ch 1, work sc, ch 1, sc in the ch 1 space. Sc in each sc to last st, 2 sc in last stitch.

Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc up to the ch1 sp. work sc, ch 1, sc in the ch 1 sp. Sc in each sc to last st, 2 sc in last stitch.

Place two of the ear pieces together and sc around through all layers evenly.

Cut a piece of black felt to fit inside the ear as shown in the picture leaving the outer row of sc visible. Sew in place using black sewing thread.

EYES:

Cut two white circles about one and 1/2 inches in diameter, 2 blue circles about 1/4 inch smaller. Sew together as shown in picture. Cut tiny white circles and sew (or glue) in place at the 10 o'clock position of the blue circles (see picture for help).

ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend pinning all pieces in place before sewing to allow you to make small adjustments. When you're pleased with the positions, sew all in place. The curl is very lightly stuffed and sewn on with the 'top' part of the curl facing up, and lightly stuffed as you sew it on. Curl the small end around as shown and sew in place. Arms are lightly stuffed and sewn slightly to the front. Feet are flattened and sewn in place on the bottom. Ears are slightly curved to the front and sewn on as shown.

Cut a small piece of the red felt in a mouth shape and sew in place.


JigglyPuff and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Friday, March 27, 2009

POLIWHIRL WITH PATTERN


Despite the fact I know his swirl is backwards, here's my version of Poliwhirl. This is one of the dolls the kids fought over, so I had to make several LOL. I never did get that swirl to go in the right direction (clock-wise) .... I guess Im 'swirl' challenged! :)

POLIWHIRL

Materials
WW weight yarn in Blue (I used RHSS Windsor Blue) and White
Size G Crochet hook
Small amount of black ww yarn
Fiber Fill
Yarn needle

NOTES:

Guage isn't important here. Just ensure that hook and yarn weight plus your tension result in even, moderately tight stitches.

I tend to prefer to join rounds, you may prefer using continuous rounds with stitchmarkers. Either way is fine. Use whichever method is most comfortable for you.

Poliwhirl is supposed to have a clockwise swirl on his belly. I guess I have 'swirl' issues, because try as I might, every swirl I do is 'counter clockwise'. If you can make the swirl go clockwise, you should. :)

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row are the total number of stitches that should be in that rnd/row.


BODY:

Beginning with white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around. Switch to blue yarn in the last stitch of this round. (56)

( I find it easiest to embroider swirl on at that point. Using black yarn and yarn needle use backstitch to add swirll to belly, see notes on that above)

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (64)

Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (72)

Rnd 10: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (80)

Rnd 12-18: sc in each sc around (80)

Rnd 19: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next two sc around (72)

Rnd 20: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next two sc around (64)

Rnd 21: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next two sc around (56)

Rnd 22: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next two sc around (48)

Rnd 23: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next two sc around (40)

Rnd 24: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next two sc around (32)

(begin stuffing body at this point, continue as needed while finishing up the closing)

Rnd 25: dec over the next 2 sc, dec over the next two sc around (24)

Rnd 26: sc in next sc, dec over next two sc around (16)

Rnd 2: dec over next two sc around (8)

F/O leaving tail for sewing. Finish out any stuffing needed. Weave tail thru final round and pull tight to close off. Tack firmly.


ARMS:

(hands)
With white:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)

Rnd 4-9: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 10: dec in next two sc around (8)

Rnd 11: working in Front Loops Only for this round- 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 12: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

F/O weave in tail.

(arm)
With blue:

Attach blue to one of the unworked loops from Rnd 11.

Rnd 1: sc in each of the unworked loops around (8)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 3-9: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O leaving long tail for sewing.

Stuff the arm (but leave hand portion unstuffed). Flatten the hand and curl closed to resemble fist. You can tack it into a fist shape if you want.

LEGS AND FEET:

Foot-

With blue:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc around, 2 sc in next sc (16)

Rnd 5-11: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 12: dec over next two sc around (8)

F/0 and sew opening closed. Foot is flattened but not stuffed.

Leg-

Repeat rnds 1 and 2 of foot.

Rnd 3: working in Back Loops Only for this round- sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O ... Stuff leg moderately firmly. Sew the open end centered over the last few rows of flattened foot.


EYES:

eyeball-

with black:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring, change to white in last sc (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 4: dec over next two sc around (6)

F/O leaving tail for sewing. Stuff firmly to round shape. Use yarn needle to weave tail through the last row of stitches, pull tightly to close.

eye socket-

With blue:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3-5: sc in each sc around (12)

F/O weave in tail. Insert eyeball with front facing out. adjust eyeball to whatever position desired.

eyelid-

with blue:
Ch 6. sc in 2nd ch from hook. HDC in next ch, DC in next ch, HDC in next ch, sc in last. (5)

F/O tie the two 'tails' together and sew the lid to the eye socket as shown in the picture. the 'rounded' side (top of the stitches) should be sewn to the lid, while the foundation ch side (straighter side) goes across the eyeball.


ASSEMBLY:

I recommend that you pin all pieces in place as show in the picture before sewing. This allows you to make final adjustments and get everything exactly as you want it before making it permanent. Sew firmly to body when satisfied with placement.


Poliwhirl and Pokemon are copyright Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (March 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
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