TMNT Michaelangelo

Ok,  well I don't guess this guy needs any real explanation or introduction.   Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles just recently celebrated their '27th' anniversary as some of the most beloved and well-known characters in our world.   I had intentions of making this doll a few years ago,  but just kept putting it off for one reason or another....and finally just had to do it.

Those of you who are followers of my FaceBook Page saw the 'sneak peek' a few days ago,  and the response was, to say the least,  incredible.   Turtles are something most of us can relate to,  since they've been around for so long.   I hope that this doll and pattern will please the 'hardcore' turtle fans who have been there since the beginning through all their 'changes'....  since this doll was mostly patterned after the 'old-school' original series.

Having been a fan of TMNT since the beginning myself,   I'm most fond of the 'original' series - thus the reason this doll is made that way.   The basic pattern can easily be made to create all four of the turtles,  by simply changing the colors of the bandana and the weapons to represent the turtle of your choice.   If I had enough greens to make them all I would...  but I'll leave that up to all the wonderfully creative crocheters out there!  :D

As always,  if you find any typoes or mistakes in the pattern,  please let me know,  I'll correct them ASAP.



Mikey

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in choice of green (with smaller amounts of brown, tan and colors for bandana)
G crochet Hook
Fiberfill
yarn needle
Small scraps of white and black felt for eyes/mouth

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important,  as long as your yarn, hook and tension result in stitches that are even and don't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

Magic ring instructions can be found easily by a websearch for 'crochet magic ring' .  YouTube also has some very good video instructions by searching for 'crochet magic ring' on YouTube.



HEAD:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6-10:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in each of next 15 sc,  sc in remaining 10 sc  (50)
Rnd 12-13:  sc in each sc around  (50)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly,  without overstuffing,  while shaping the 'face' as you go.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 16:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 17:  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (10)
F/O leaving a tail.  Finish adding any stuffing needed to shape head properly.  Weave the tail through the last row of 10 sc,  tug gently to 'close up' the opening.  Secure and weave in end.

BODY:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 6: sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 3 sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in each of remaining 3 sc  (34)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 16 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 16 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (36)
Rnd 8-9:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 15 sc,  2 sc in each of next 3 sc,  sc in next 15 sc,  2 sc in each of last 3 sc (42)
Rnd 11-20:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 15 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times), sc in next 15 sc, dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times)  (36)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 23:  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times),  sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times) (30)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff body firmly while shaping  but avoid overstuffing.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 25:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times),  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times)  (24)
Rnd 26:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 27:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Secure end and weave in.  Leave neck opening as is.

ARMS  (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around  (8)
Begin stuffing at this point,  do not overstuff but stuff moderately firmly to shape the 'muscles' of the shoulder, upper arm and lower arm as you progress.
Rnd 8: sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 9-11:  sc in each sc around  (even)
Rnd 12: sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (8)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 14-18: sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 19:  dec over next 2 sc around  (5)
Flatten end,  sc across opening through all layers  (3 sc)
Rnd 20:  chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand (rnd 19).   chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand  - two fingers made.   Chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch along 'side' of hand (between rnd 18 and 19) to create 'thumb'
F/O and weave end in.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 3-7:  (working again through both loops) sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
Rnd 9: 2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 10-15:  sc in each sc around  12)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 7 sc,  chain 7,  Join chain to first sc of this round.  (7 sc, 7 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in each sc and chain around (14)
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 19:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O.  Weave in ends.
Stuff the leg (while shaping).  Stuff moderately firm without overstuffing.  'Hip' is either not stuffed  (flattened) or *very* lightly stuffed.   Leg is pinned to side/bottom of body as shown,  with 'hip' cape/flap to the outside and 'opening' at top of leg underneath.    Very small amounts of stuffing can be added to the cape at the 'hip' to provide more shape if needed.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2-3:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 4:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 9:  Flatten 'foot',  sc across top through all layers  (6 sc).  Turn.
sc in next 3 sc,  turn,  sc in next 3 sc,  turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot,  slip stitch to next sc of row 9.   Sc in next 3 sc,  turn,  sc in next 3 sc,  turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot,  slip stitch to row 9  (between the two 'toes').
F/O, secure and weave in end.
(NOTE:  Feet in the doll shown were not stuffed,  just flattened.  If you wish to add a *very* small amount of stuffing to the feet to give them a little more 'size'  do this before you close the opening by sc across the top,  then proceed as is written from there)

Feet are sewn as shown to the bottom of the legs.  Make sure that you have the feet facing in the correct direction .  (I find that pinning the legs to the doll and then pinning/sewing the feet to the bottom of the legs is most helpful as it ensures you have the right direction on both of the feet,  and the best angle as well)

BELLY PLATE:

(using tan)

Row 1:  chain 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain across ,  turn  (5)
Row 2:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (7)
Row 3:  sc in each sc across  (7)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (9)
Row 5:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 6:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn   (11)
Row 7:  sc in each sc across  (11)
Row 8:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn    (13)
Row 9:  sc in each sc across  (13)
Row 10:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (15)
Row 11-24:  sc in each sc across  (15)
Row 25:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  slip stitch to next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
Row 26:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  slip stitch to next stitch,  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
Row 27:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  slip stitch to next stitch,  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
F/O.   Weave in ends.   Using brown yarn and yarn needle,  add the detailing to the plate as shown in photos.

SHELL:

(Using brown)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (32)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (40)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 9-10:  sc in each sc around  (48)

SHELL RIM:

Rnd 1:  ch 6,  join to make ring,  sc in each chain around (6)
Rnd 2-?:  sc in each sc around (6 sc each round) until the tube will easily reach around the outside of the shell (the number of rounds will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tensions differences)  Tube does not need to be stuffed, but if you wish, you can VERY lightly stuff the tube to give it more rigidity.   When the tube will easily fit around the outside edge of the shell,  F/O and sew ends of tube together.  Pin and sew tube to outside edge of shell.   Shell will be stuffed when sewn to the back of the turtle.

ELBOW/KNEE PADS:

Elbow pads (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Do not fasten off,  continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around arm at elbow  (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences).    F/O leaving tail.  Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'.  Weave in ends.

KNEE PADS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 hdc in each sc around  (16)
Do not fasten off,  continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around leg at knee  (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences)  F/O leaving tail.  Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'.  Weave in ends.

BANDANA:

Using color of choice:

Chain 2.  Sc in second chain from hook,  turn.
Sc in sc,  turn
2 sc in sc,  turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for approx. 20 rows  (more if you want a longer tail on the bandana)
Next row:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (4)
Continue with rows of 4 sc until this section of the bandana will just wrap around the head above the 'nose' as shown.
Next row:  Decrease over next 2 sc, twice, turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for the same length as before (2)
Decrease over next 2 sc, turn (1)
Sc in sc.
F/O, weave in ends.

"EYEBROWS":

Chain about 20  (check and see if you want more or less 'brow')   Place in the shape of the brows over the top of the bandana.  (this is probably best done after construction of the doll and eyes are in place so that you can see how much or how little 'brow' you want on your turtle)

BELT:

Chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next sc , turn (2)
Continue rows of 2 sc for length desired for belt.   Belt  goes around the shell,  so it's probably best to wait until doll is fully assembled before making the belt so that you can try it around the doll as you make it to ensure it's the length you want.

NUNCHUCKS:

(make 2)

Row 1:  Chain 11, sc in second chain from hook and each chain across,  turn  (10)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across, turn (10)
F/O leaving tail.  With yarn needle,  fold in half long ways and sew together with whip stitch.
Weave in tail.

Chain (make 1):

Chain approx 20 (or length desired).   Attach each end to one of the 'chucks'.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing to ensure you're happy with everything befoe making it permanent.

Head is sewn to top of body at neck opening.  Belly Plate is sewn to front of body.   Arms and legs are sewn to body positioned as desired.

Elbow and knee pads are placed on arms and legs as shown,  they can be tacked on with a few stitches if you want.

Eyes are made by cutting pieces of felt and sewing/gluing them to the bandana.  Mouth is made by cutting a piece of felt and sewing/gluing to the face as desired.  Facial expressions can vary from turtle to turtle to give them each their own personality.

The doll can be made to represent any of the Turtles,  by changing the color of the bandana, weapons and even facial expressions.


Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and the character Michaelangelo are copyright/trademarked of their original creators.


This pattern is an original crochet pattern and is © by Linda Potts (March 2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not add it to any collection on cd/dvd, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Spheal the Love

Finally!    I know  -  it's been forever.

This guy is smaller than most of the pokemon dolls I've made.  I really had very little of the blue yarn left,  and I was wanting a small and easy project to 'test' my wrist out before diving head-first into crocheting again.  I think I'll be ok if I take it easy and don't try to do too much at once,  at least so far.

This particular doll will be well suited to the 'advanced beginner' at crochet -  one who's got a few easy projects under their belt,  but looking for some 'new' techniques to do.   Kind of like line dancing - and adding a little extra swish to your skirt when you spin.... it's not hard to do but sure makes you look good on the dance floor  :D

Anyway...  to the pattern,  and as always,  if you notice any typoes or just find yourself a little confused,  post or email me,  I'll get back to you as soon as I can  :D



Spheal

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in blue and white
G Hook
Fiberfill
10.5 mm safety eyes  (or similar sized shoe button or felt scraps in black)
Scraps of white felt
Yarn needle for weaving in ends


NOTES:

Gauge isn't very important for this project.

This particular doll is rather small,  making it a quick and easy project to accomplish in a day or even an evening watching a movie.    The small number of 'parts'  and the easy nature of the construction makes this an excellent choice for the 'advanced' beginner -  one who has a couple of simpler projects under the belt and is ready to stretch out with a couple of new techniques.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates how many stitches should be in each round or row.

I would recommend that you join your rounds when crocheting the 'body' of the doll instead of using the 'continuous' rounds method commonly used in amigurumi.  If you do use the continuous rounds method,  your color changes will be very evident and likely uneven.

BODY

Begin with white:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  *2 sc in each sc - repeat from * around  (14)
Rnd 3:  *sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc - repeat from * around   (21)
Rnd 4:  *sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc - repeat from * around  (28)
Rnd 5:  *sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc - repeat from * around   (35)
Rnd 6:  *sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc - repeat from * around  (42)
Rnd 7:  *sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc - repeat from * around  (49)
Rnd 8-10:  sc in each sc around - change to blue in the final sc of round 10  (49)
Rnd 11-14:  sc in each sc around  (49)

If using safety eyes,  they should be placed between rounds 12 and 13 with about 5 sc between them,  however you may wish until you've completed to round 18 or so,  and mostly stuff the body before deciding where to place them,  then finish stuffing and shaping the body after securing the safety eyes.

Rnd 15:  *sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc - repeat from * around  (42)
Rnd 16:  *sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc - repeat from * around  (35)

Begin stuffing at this point.  Stuff body firmly, without overstuffing.  Shape the body as you go and continue to stuff as you work the remainder of the body.

Rnd 17:  *sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc - repeat from * around  (28)
Rnd 18:  *sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc - repeat from * around  (21)
Rnd 19:  *sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc - - repeat from * around  (14)
Rnd 20:  *dec over next 2 sc - repeat from * around  (7)
F/O.  Weave tail through last round of sc,  pull gently to close.  Secure and weave in end.

EARS:

In a Magic Ring,  7 hdc,  ch 1,  slip stitch in ring.    Do not join as for a round.   Pull ring tight.   F/O - secure yarn and weave in ends.

JOWLS/MUZZLE:

Chain 13.   Slip stitch in second chain from hook.  hdc in next chain,  2 dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch,  slip stitch in each of next 2 chs,  hdc in next ch,  2 dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch,  slip stitch in last chain.      F/O,  weave in ends.

FRONT FLIPPERS:

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (10)
F/O.  Front flippers are not stuffed.  Flatten and weave in ends.

TAIL FINS:

Ch 15.

Rnd 1:  sc in second chain from hook.  sc in each chain to last ch.   Turn work and begin working down the       other side of the chain.  Sc in each 'loop' of chain to end  Join or mark for round  (28)
Rnd 2-3:  sc in each sc around  (28)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (26)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (26)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (24)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (24)
*LIGHTLY* stuff the piece.  Sc evenly across the opening,  keeping your stuffing as evenly distributed as possible.
F/O and weave in the ends.   Using yarn needle and a length of the blue yarn,  create the 'separations' in the tail.  Tug them a little tight to accentuate the divisions. and give some 'curve' to the end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I always recommend that you pin all your pieces together BEFORE sewing them on,  to ensure that you're happy with placement and sizes.   Once you're pleased with the overall look,  begin sewing your pieces on.

If using buttons or felt for eyes,  place eyes approx as shown.

Sew the 'muzzle' as shown, centered just below the eyes.   Sew ears to the top of the head as shown.

Front flippers are sewn to the bottom of the front of the body as shown.  Tail Fins are sewn to center of back of body.

Cut small triangle shaped pieces of white felt for the 'tusks' and attach to bottom side of curve of muzzle on each side as shown.   Cut four larger and two smaller circles (freehand is fine,  as the 'markings' on spheal are not perfectly round) and sew (or glue) to each side of spheal as shown.  

Using a scrap of dark yarn or embroidery thread,  make two small 'marks' on the muzzle in the center to indicate nostrils.


Spheal and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.


This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (January 2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.