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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Monday, August 16, 2010

Charmander Plushie

Ok,  well.  After many requests I finally managed to get around to making a Charmander.  I know the pictures are terrible,  but hey  I'm not a photographer and neither my camera OR the weather are cooperating at the moment.    So it's inside photos for now y'all...  I'll try to get some other pics soon.

This pattern has two different 'versions'.   The one you see in the pictures,  with the open mouth,  and also instructions for the closed mouth  (which is a bit easier).   Read all the way through the pattern before starting,  so that you'll know which one you're going to do  :D

Should you find any problems or typos,  please let me know and I'll fix it as quickly as possible :D   As always,  if you have any questions,  feel free to ask I'll get back with ya as soon as I can!

Charmander

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in pumpkin (or similar color) and tan/natural
G hook
Fiberfill
Felt scraps in black, blue, white, yellow, red and orange
Sewing needle and thread in colors close to the felt colors
Yarn Needle

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important on this project, as long as your choice of yarn and hook and your individual tension result in an even, firm stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

There are two ways to make this doll,  either with the open mouth (as shown)  or with a 'closed' mouth where you would add embroidered mouth features.  I'll include instructions for both types so that you can do the style you prefer.

HEAD/BODY:
(this is for the open mouth version of the head and body,  if you would prefer to make the 'closed mouth' version  (not shown in pictures)  begin with the alternate head and body below)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (32)
Rnd 5-11:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 11 sc,  Working in Front Loops only - 2 sc in each of next 10 sc,  Working now through both loops again -  sc in last 11 sc  (42)
Rnd 13:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 14:  sc in each of next 17 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat dec 3 more times,  for a total of 4 decreases) sc in each of last 17 sc of the round  (38)
Rnd 15:  sc in each of next 13 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (repeat dec 5 more times,  for a total of 6 decreases)  sc in each of last 13 sc of the round  (32)
Rnd 16:  sc in each next 10 sc,   chain 10,  skip next 12 sc,  sc in each of last 10 sc of the round  (20 sc, 10 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (when you reach the chains,  treat them exactly as you would sc stitches and continue the sc 3, dec) to end of round  (24)
Begin stuffing head at this point.  Stuff to 'nose' and mouth opening,  then continue stuffing as you progress.  Stuff firmly,  shaping nose and head/neck/body as you go.
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 22-24:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 25:  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (39)
Rnd 26-34:  sc in each sc around  (39)
Rnd 35:  sc in next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 36:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 37:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 38:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 39:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish the body shape.  Weave tail through final round and tug to close the hole. 

LOWER JAW:

Row 1:  Ch 9,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (8)
Row 2:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 3:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Row 4:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
Row 5:  dec over next 2 sc,  repeat decrease  (2)
F/O.

Attach yarn to a corner of Row 1.  Sc evenly around the sides and around the front to the opposite corner of Row1. 

F/O.   Weave in loose ends.  Cut a piece of red felt to fit just inside the lower jaw area,  and one to fit the 'upper' part of the mouth.   Using sewing thread and needle,  sew the felt to both parts.   If desired,  cut a small semi-oval of pink felt for the tongue and sew to the middle of the lower jaw.  Pin the lower jaw to the opening of the 'mouth' on the head/body piece.  Adjust to desired position.  Sew securely in position across the outside along the neck,  and also sew together the two pieces of felt inside the back of the mouth.  This might require some 'patience'  and little maneuvering  but take your time and recheck your positioning frequently while sewing to make sure you're maintaining the position you want.

If needed,  add more stuffing to shape out the mouth area.  Don't overstuff though,  or the inside of the mouth will pucker and bulge out.

Add two very tiny pieces of white felt for 'teeth' on upper and lower jaws.


ALTERNATE HEAD/BODY:
For the 'closed mouth' option:

Rnd 1-15:  same as for head/body above.
Rnd 16:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 5 more times for a total of six decreases)  sc in each of remaining 10 sc of the round  (26)
Rnd 17:  sc in each of next 11 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat once more for a total of two decreases)  sc in each of remaining 11 sc of round  (24)
Rnd 18-40:  same as for head/body above.
Remember when stuffing to shape head/neck area while stuffing.  Don't make a 'lower jaw' for this version of the doll.


HANDS/ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  10 sc in magic ring  (10)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round -  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 3-6:  working again in both loops – sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around.  (12)
F/O.  Stuff arm moderately. 

FINGERS/CLAWS:

Attach yarn to one of the 'free loops' from round 2 of arm.  Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. Chain 3,  slip stitch in second ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch to next 'free loop',  slip stitch in next free loop. 
F/O.   Weave in loose ends.

LEGS / FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4-6:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Stuff * very * lightly at this point.  You only need enough stuffing to give the leg a little 'puff'.  You'll need for one side of the leg to be flat against the body,  so don't over-stuff as this will make the job of attaching the leg to the body difficult.
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Weave in ends. 

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (9)
Rnd 7:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Do not stuff.  Weave tail through final round of foot and tug to close.  Weave in ends.

TOES:

Method 1:
Attach white yarn between round 2 and 3 of foot.  Ch 3.  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2,  Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 1 and 2 on the other side of center,   Ch 3,  Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch,  slip stitch between round 2 and 3.  F/O,  weave in ends.

Method 2:
Cut the toe shapes from white felt and sew or glue to front of foot in position desired.

BELLY SPOT:
Using tan

While most of the doll can be made using either the joining method of rounds,  or the continuous method of making rounds,  this particular piece will not work well with continuous rounds.  It's highly recommended that you join each round with a slip stitch in the top of the first sc of that round,  Ch 1 and begin the new round in the same stitch as the joining slip stitch.

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring,  join  (8)
Rnd 2:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join (16)
Rnd 3:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 6 sc,  3 sc in last sc,   join (24)
Rnd 4:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (32)
Rnd 5:  3 sc in first sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 14 sc,  3 sc in last sc,  join  (40)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in next 18 sc,  2 sc in last sc,  join  (44)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Pin to front of body centered evenly between arms and legs as shown.

TAIL:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  sc in each sc around to last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Rnd 3-20:  repeat rnd 2 (increasing each round by one stitch)   (25)
Rnd 21:  sc in each sc around.
F/O and stuff tail moderately firm.

TAIL STRIPE:
Using tan:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  sc in second ch from hook  (1)
Row 2:  2 sc in sc  (2)
Row 3-4:  sc in each sc across (2)
Row 5:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in last sc  (3)
Row 6-7:  sc in each sc across (3)
Row 8:  sc in first 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (4)
Row 9-10:   sc in each sc across  (4)
Row 11:  sc in first 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (5)
Row 12-13:   sc in each sc across  (5)
Row 14:  sc in first 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 15-16:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 17:  sc in first 5 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (7)
Row 18-19:  sc in each sc across (7)
Row 20:  sc in first 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Row 21-22:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 23:  sc in first 7 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (9)
Row 24-30:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 31:  sc in first 7 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Row 32:  sc in first 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (7)
Row 33:  sc in first 5 sc,  dec over last 2 sc, (6)
Row 34-38:  sc in each sc across  (6)

You may need to adjust the number of rows between 34-38  (either add or subtract)  to get your stripe to fit from tip of tail to just past the center of the bottom of the body.  It is recommended that you first pin and sew all the other body parts before making the tail stripe,  so that you'll have a definite length that will be easier to work with.

F/O and stuff tail moderately firm. 

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Arms are flattened on the open end and attached to the upper body as shown.  Pin them first so that you can be sure of the placement and position before sewing.

The Feet are sewn to bottom of leg as shown,  and the legs are attached to the lower body as shown.  Pin first to be sure of placement and position before sewing.

Tail is sewn to back of lower body.  Belly plate is sewing to center of front of body between arms and legs as shown.   Tail stripe is sewn to the underside of the tail,  with point at the tip of the tail,  and larger end just meeting up with the belly plate at the bottom of the lower body.

Tail flames are just different sizes of 'flame shapes'  cut from red, orange and yellow felt... placed together at slightly different angles and sewn together at the base of the flames,  then sewn to the top of the tip of the tail.  (see pics for help)

Eyes are cut from white felt,  then black,  with blue 'scoops' at the bottom.   Small white ovals create the 'catch lights' at the upper end of the eye  (it really helps to find some good pictures online,  and see how the eyes are done)

Eyebrow and nostrils are simply straight stitches with either black or dark brown yarn placed as shown  (here again,  a good picture from online will be very helpful with the placement of these features).  If you're making the closed mouth version,  you may wish to look again at some pictures to determine if you want to embroider a mouth and if you do,  what design to use. 

Charmander  and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

37 Comments:

Craft Passion said...

Wow, this is amazing!!!! Look a little tedious to crochet with so many parts. Hope I will try it out one day.
I shared this in my facebook page. http://www.facebook.com/CraftPassion

Inge said...

Wow, this one is really amazing!
Can't wait for the next one, I hope it is a Kirlia!

Whitney said...

Really amazing! Can't wait to make him. I have all the materials, just need to find the time! Thanks for another great pattern.

flygonlover said...

awsome i love it!
hey can you please make rouge the bat? shes a sonic chariture.
i really hope you make one cuz my parents have been fighting and they might get devorsed. :(
so i need something to get that off my mind? can you please make her???

Anonymous said...

awe its sooooo cute! what do u think about making a luxray? i tried once...it didnt turn out. i bet u could though...

poohbear102045 said...

he is so cute, my 4 yearold saw your pattern of charmender and she wants me to make him for her. Plus all the pattern you made make good gifts too

kim said...

I love your pokemon characters that you have crocheted, unfortunately I am a knitter and I was wondering if anyone knew where i could find similar patterns for knitting?

Anonymous said...

knitting pattern centrel

mickchick831 said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Anonymous said...

how are you supposed make the mouth exactly? iam at that part and how do you close off the mouth?

WolfDreamer said...

If you don't want to make the 'open mouth' version, then start with the 'alternate head/body' pattern instructions instead of the first ones listed.

If you're making the open mouth, then after you finish with the head/body, you make the 'lower jaw' and pin/sew that to the bottom of the opening created when making the head/body. Then with red felt you cut pieces to fit inside the lower jaw and opening of the upper mouth part and sew those in .

Candice said...

I'm a little confused on the tail stripe. I'm following the directions but when I finish row 2, I end up with 3 stitches instead of 2. What might I be doing wrong?

WolfDreamer said...

In row one, you chain 2. Then you one sc in the second chain from the hook. Turn your work.

For row 2, you put 2 sc in the one sc of row 1. :D

Candice said...

Oh, okie, thank you! I was so accustomed to crocheting in the round that the change through me off. Thanks!

Ben the Bulbasaur said...

Wow, I love the Charmander! I've taken a look at almost all your Pokemon plushies, they all look superb. You've got almost all the original Kanto starters... Any chance you might do a Bulbasaur sometime soon to complete the set? :D There's no beating Pokemon #1, in my opinion, and there just doesn't seem to be a good pattern for him out there that I can find...

Rachel Joy said...

Do you know how big Charmander might be? Like, height-wise?

WolfDreamer said...

He's about 9 or so inches tall.

Your exact results will vary depending on your hook and yarn choices, and your individual tension.

haley said...

Oh you should make sandshrew or sandslash

haley said...

you should make video tutorials i get lost if i cant see how something is done : o (

Anonymous said...

Please make a sandslash pattern

Anonymous said...

ok you just can't have charmander and squirtle without bulbasaur lol

Şule said...

süper :)

Kayla W. said...

I just became an avid follower of your blog, it is wonderful :) I would also love if you did a Bulbasaur, and then maybe a Totodile :) The starter sets are the best :)

Keep up the wonderful crocheting!

Rose said...

Hello, I'm wondering if you have a photo of the closed mouth version of Charmander? Great projects by the way :)

Anonymous said...

Do you use stitch markers to begin and end the rows? I'm having a problem since most crochet rounds that start with a single crochet usually chain one then sc. You then have a beginning to join. I seem to lose count.

WolfDreamer said...

Personally, I don't use continuous rounds.. but when you do, you chain one, then put your first sc in the *same* place you just chained one. to begin your row. (the chain one is only to bring your work up to the height of the stitches)

I do recommend using a marker in the first sc of each round when working continuous rounds to help you keep your place. Almost anything can be used as a stitch marker, an old earring (the 'hook' kind) or a safety pin (that's my favorite when I do use them).

If you know the beginning of your round, you can go back and count your stitches for that row to ensure that you've gotten the right 'end count' for the row before you start the next one.

Anonymous said...

on the head,(row 12) when you say sc 11 in lst sc, do you still do it through both loops or just the front?

Anonymous said...

and i ment to say last sc, not lst

WolfDreamer said...

On rnd 12, the first 11 sc are worked through both loops, then working in front loops only, you put 2 sc in each of the next 10 sc, then working through both loops again, sc in each of the remaining 11 sc. :D

Anonymous said...

thanks!

Anonymous said...

Hi, I am confused on how to complete the lower jaw. What does chain across mean in round 1?

Angela Williams said...

I don't get row 16 of the head and body; open mouth section. How many sc are u suppose to have at the end of the round?

Melody McAfee said...

i love this but I'm confused with the increases starting in round 19 of the head/body. The number of stitches are coming out different from the number in your parenthesis...am i reading it wrong, please help! Thank you

WordCount said...

Hello! I made the closed mouth version of this pattern and I blogged about it. :D I've linked to your blog here http://kateedidit.com/pokemon/
Thank you so much for the patterns! I'm trying to get a link up to your minion pattern but I am not very good at navigating. I made a bunch of those. So obsessed. But my friend really wanted a Charmander and I got really excited and did it in two days. Thank you so much!

ynomra said...

thank you for the free paterne
i utilise this free and i make you on my blog

http://armonyann.blogspot.fr
kissss

Dratini said...

You have amazing patterns! Make a bulbasaur! =D

Kareen said...

Hi! Thank you SO MUCH for posting this pattern. I did the opened mouth version as a Secret Santa present, and it was impossible to take it out from its owner's hand LOL. I posted the pictures on my blog (http://bit.ly/1egSOoD), with links to your blog and Ravelry profile, and I want to ask you if I can put a spanish translation in a future post. I know you have automatic translation, but still :P

Again, thank you. You have amazing material ^_^

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