All pages and patterns of this site can now be translated by using the 'Translate this Page' Gadget at the top of the right hand column of every page. Hopefully this will help many of you who are more comfortable reading in your native language. :D

All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Saturday, May 29, 2010

DS Game Carrying Case


This is a DS carrying case I made in a couple of hours one afternoon when I really needed something to carry my DS around in,  with the games.   I'll get some better pictures,  especially of the sides to make it easier for you to see how it's put together... but right now my camera is out of town with my oldest daughter,  so it'll be a few days.

Anyway,  I'm including the 'pattern'  which is really just a set of guidelines more than a set pattern.  Adjust it as you need to fit your yarn/hook/Game System and the games or cartridges you have.


DS Carrying Case


Sport Weight Yarn (any color)
G Hook
Yarn Needle

This is one of those patterns where it’s more of a set of ‘guidelines’  that you can manipulate to fit your application.   In this case,  your DS/DSLite/DSI or other hand held game system.

I used a sport yarn with a firm hand to it,  so if you use a softer sport yarn,  or if you use a worsted weight yarn, you’ll probably have to adjust the numbers of stitches to fit your DS.  Baby Yarns will likely result in a little bit smaller case,  so again,  you’ll  need to adjust. 

I’d recommend that you ‘check’ your progress against your DS (or other game system) frequently while making this case,  and adjust in whatever way is needed so that it fits.

MAIN COMPARTMENT:

Row 1:  Ch 25,  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (24)
Row 2-26:  HDC in each HDC across.  (24)
F/O weave in ends.


GUSSET  (SIDES) 

Make 2:

Row 1:  Ch 5.  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (4)
Row 2-12:  HDC in each HDC across (4)
F/O, weave in ends.

Carefully pin gussets to the beginning row and end row of main compartment,  and along the side and bottom of gussets (this creates the compartment for the DS.   Using your crochet hook,  SC along the sides and around bottom of Gussets to attach the gussets to the main piece.  (HINT:   Using a size or two smaller hook for this step often helps to get a cleaner and better fitting ‘piping’ along the sides)



GAME FLAP:

Row 1:  Ch 25,  HDC in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across  (24)
Row 2-28:  HDC in each HDC across  (24)
F/O, weave in ends.


NETS (Game pockets – make 2): 

Row 1:  Ch 24.  HDC 2nd Ch from hook.  * Ch 1,  skip one ch,  HDC next ch *  Repeat * to * across to last ch.  (11 ch1 spaces)
Row 2:  Ch 1.  HDC in first HDC.  * ch 1,  skip ch1 space,  HDC in next HDC *  Repeat * to * across  (11 spaces)
Row 3-7:  Repeat Row 2.
F/O weave in ends.

Sew game pockets/nets to game flap as shown,  leave room between the two nets/pockets  to allow for ‘folding’.   Sew top to bottom as desired to create individual pockets for various games/cartridges as shown or as desired.

Sew game flap to the bottom front of the main compartment,  so that the pockets face ‘up’  and will fold up and rest against the front of the main compartment.


COVER/FLAP:

Row 1: Attach yarn to right corner of back of main compartment.   CH1 and HDC in same corner stitch as join,  HDC across (24)
Row 2-8:  HDC in each HDC across  (24)
Row 9:  DEC over first 2 HDC,  HDC in each remaining HDC to end  (23)
Row 10:  repeat row 9  (22)
Row 11:  repeat row 9  (21)
Row 12:  repeat row 9  (20)
Row 13:  repeat row 9  (19)
Row 14:  repeat row 9  (18)
Row 15:  DEC over first 2 HDC of row,  HDC in each HDC across until last two HDC,  DEC over last 2 HDC  (16)
Repeat row 15,  (Decrease at each end of row)  until 2 HDC left in row.  Dec over last 2 HDC.

F/O.   Make two equal length chains as long as you like for tying.   Attach one chain to point of flap,  the other to the bottom of the main compartment  (fold up the game flap and determine where you want the second tie placed.)

Decorate as desired,  or just load up and go!  :D

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 


Saturday, May 22, 2010

Cyndaquil Plushie


I finally decided to make a Cyndaquil.  It's my starter pokemon in HeartGold, and I really do love it :D

The flames on the back are made a little differently,  but it's not hard to do.  If you have any questions or find any problems with the pattern,  please let me know and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.


Cyndaquil

Materials

WW Yarn yellow , blue, red and gold (or a light orange)
G Hook
Black Embroidery thread
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle

NOTES:  

Gauge is not very important as long as your hook and yarn choice results in a consistent stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from coming through.

Numbers in  ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row. 


HEAD and BODY:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 7-12:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Begin stuffing here,  stuff firmly while shaping.  Continue to stuff as you progress down the body.

Rnd 16:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 19-21:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 22:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 23-30:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 31:  sc next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Rnd 32:  sc next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 33:  sc next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 34:  sc next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 35:  sc next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 36:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Weave end through final round and gently pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in ends.


SNOUT:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Rnd 3:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Rnd 6:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 8:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Rnd 9:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 11:  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (22)
F/O.  Stuff snout firmly to shape.  Pin to front of head with ‘longer’ end close to the neck portion of the body.  (see images for help with placement).  Sew securely to head.  Add any stuffing around the edges as you sew if you see the need for it to help the snout maintain its shape.


STRIPE:
(using blue)

Row 1:  Ch 3,  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch.  (2)
Row 2:  sc in both sc  (2)
Row 3:  2 sc in each of sc across  (4)
Row 4-6:  sc in each sc across  (4)
Row 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)
Row 8-10:  sc in each sc across  (6)
Row 11:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)
Row 12:  sc in each sc across  (8)
Row 13:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)
Row 14-24:  sc in each sc across  (10)
Row 25:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)
Row 26-34:  sc in each sc across  (12)
Row 35:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc  (14)
Row 36:  sc in each sc across  (14)
Row 37:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)
Row 38:  sc in each sc across  (16)
Row 39:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)
Row 40-50:  sc in each sc across  (18)
Row 51:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)
Row 52:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)
Row 53:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (12)
Row 54:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (10)
Row 55:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)
Row 56:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)
Row 57:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)
F/O.  Weave in ends.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)
Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)
Begin Shoulder:
sc in next 6 sc,  (leave remaining sc unworked)  turn  (6)
dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)
dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across  (4)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Stuff arm firmly while shaping.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)
Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 10:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already.  Stuff moderately firmly  (you’ll need to be able to slightly flatten this part of the leg when sewing it to the body,  so don’t over-stuff)
Rnd 11:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish the shape.  Do not close the opening.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring,  join with slip stitch to first sc of round to form circle (6)
Rnd 2:  In same sc as joining,  ch1, sc, dc, sc;   slip stitch in next sc 
F/O.  Weave in ends and sew the foot to the opening of the leg.  Foot is sewn with round 1 over the opening,  leaving rnd 2 ‘free’ for the ‘toes’

FLAMES:

RED flame (make 2)

The flames are made with a base,  and randomly placed points.   First,  make your base which is more or less a ‘half circle’:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)
Row 2:  2 hdc in each hdc across, turn  (12)
Row 3:  hdc in first hdc,  2 hdc in next hdc across , ending with 2 hdc in last stitch,  turn  (18)
Row 4:  repeat row 3  (24) 
Do not fasten off.   Begin making the points.   Add your points randomly from the sizes below.  When you reach the end of your row,  add whatever point will fit nicely there.   Try to vary the sizes across the base,  so that the effect is more like an ‘explosion’ rather than a contrived or patterned look.

The points are made as such,  there are several different ‘sizes’ that I used.  I tried several patterns of points,  but they all looked too stiff and un-natural.   I found that randomly adding the points gave a far nicer ‘explosion’ look.   The different sizes of points I used are as follows:

1:  Ch 5.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch, dc in last ch.  Skip 2 stitches on the base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

2:  Ch 6.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch,  dc in next ch,  trbl in last ch.  Skip 3 stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

3:  Ch 8.  Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook,  sc in each of next 2 chs,  hdc in next ch,  dc in each of next 2 chs,  trbl in last ch.  Skip three stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

Experiment with different random patterns of the points until you are happy with how it looks. 

After making the last point,  F/O and weave in ends.  (the points will want to curl some, that’s normal and adds to the ‘effect’… but I did use an iron to ‘VERY GENTLY’ press the points with a little spray starch so that they wouldn’t curl too tightly.   If you don’t have an iron that’s ok,  you can just pull the points straight… they’ll curl back up,  but if you pull them out several times,  over time the points will relax and stay a good bit straighter.

GOLD flame  (make 2)

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)
Row 2:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (12)
Row 3:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc across , ending with 2 sc in last stitch,  turn  (18)

Here again,  use the same points described above to create a random pattern on each of the Gold bases in the same manner as for the red ones.    This is basically the same as the red flame,  just smaller.

Place the 2 red flames together with ‘wrong’ sides to the inside,  sew  them together along the ‘domed’ base leaving the points free and the bottom ‘edge’ open.  (just sew along the row 4 of the base) 

Take one of the gold flames,  and place in front of one side of the red flames (as shown in the pictures)  and sew along the base around the domed part  attaching it that side of the red flame.  Repeat on the other side with the other gold flame. 
FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Carefully pin the blue stripe to the body beginning at the tip of the nose  pin along the snout, over the head  (pulling slightly at the neck to keep it taught as you pin)  then pin across the back to the bottom end of the body.   Take care to keep it straight and taught across the head/body as you pin.

When you’re pleased with the position of the stripe,  sew it carefully and securely removing the pins as you go,  and making sure that you keep it taught, straight and even down the body.

Place the arms as shown on the front of the body  (the ‘shoulder’  will allow you to place the arms facing forward instead of straight out.  Pin to the body and adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with how they look,  sew them securely to the body.

Determine which leg goes on each side  (making sure ‘toes’ face forward)  and gently flatten the side of the leg that will be against the body.  Pin to the body as shown in the pictures,  adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with the placement and position of the legs,  sew them securely to the body.

Eyes are embroidered as shown using a back stitch.  Nostrils are just a couple of whip stitches placed at the end of the nose as shown.

Place and pin the flames as shown down the center of the back of the body.  You may wish to add a very small amount of stuffing inside the base (dome) of the red flames to give it a little more ‘size’,  but that’s optional.   Be certain the flames are centered and straight.  Sew carefully and securely to the body,  removing the pins as you go,  and making sure it doesn’t get off–center as you sew.

Cyndaquil and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 





Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Nested Pineapple Shawl

Mother's Day having just passed by,  I made my my Mom a really nice shawl as a gift.  She *loved* it :D.  I've written out the pattern and posted it on my Etsy Shop if anyone would like to take a shot at making one.  It's definitely a piece for more experienced crocheters, but it is TRULY worth the work! 


It's modeled in the pictures by one of my girls,  I couldn't get Momma to let me get a picture of her wearing it... LOL.  

If you'd like to get the pattern,  it's available at my Etsy Shop  ( the direct link to the pattern is http://www.etsy.com/listing/46769264/nested-pineapple-shawl-pdf-pattern

Enjoy! :D

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Aipom Plushie


I finally got around to making Aipom.  I apologize for the lighting in the pictures,  I'll try to get some better pictures for ya when time allows  :D   We were kind of in a hurry, and I was also weeding and watering the vegetable garden before it got dark...  Hopefully these are enough to help you with the pattern.



The pattern hasn't been tested by anyone but me,  so if you find any mistakes,  please let me know so I can correct them as soon as possible :D


Aipom

Materials:

WW yarn in Medium Lavender (purple) and Tan
G hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle
Felt scraps in black and white
Sewing needle and thread to match yarn and felts


Body:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 7-17:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already.  Stuff moderately firmly and shape while stuffing.  Continue to stuff/shape as you progress.
Rnd 19:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 20:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 21:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Add any stuffing necessary to finish the shape desired.  Leave neck opening.

Body Inset:
Using tan:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6:  slip stitch in each sc around  (35)

Head:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 6 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 9:  sc in next 7 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (54)
Rnd 10-15:  sc in each sc around  (54)
Rnd 16:  sc in next  7 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (48)
Rnd 17:  sc in next  6 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (42)
Rnd 18:  sc in next  5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)
Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already.  Stuff moderately firmly and shape while stuffing.  Continue to stuff/shape as you progress.
Rnd 19:  sc in next  4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 20:  sc in next  3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Rnd 21:  sc in next  2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 22:  sc in next  sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
F/O.  Weave in ends.  Add any stuffing necessary to finish the shape desired.  Leave neck opening.


Ears (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 5-10:  sc in each sc around  (18)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (15)
Rnd 12:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (9)
Rnd 14:  sc in each sc around  (9)
F/O .  Flatten ear  (ear is not stuffed).   Weave tail through final round and gently tug to draw together.  Secure and weave in end.

Ear Inset (make 2):
Using tan:

Rnd 1:  Ch 5,  3 sc in second chain from hook,  sc in next 2 ch,  3 sc in last ch.   (working down other side of foundation chain now),   sc in next 2 ch loops,   slip stitch to first sc of round.
Rnd 2:  Ch 1,  sc in same sc as join.  4 sc in next sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  4 sc in next sc,  sc in each of next 3 sc.   Slip stitch to first sc of round.
F/O.   Weave in loose ends.   Sew inset onto ear as shown in photos.

Arms  (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  Sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (9)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 4-10:   sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 11:   sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around ,  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (10)
Rnd 12-13:  sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around,  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (8)
Rnd 15:  Stuff arm moderately while shaping.  Don’t overstuff.   Flatten end,  sc across end through all layers.  (4 sc across)
F/O and weave in end.

Legs (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  working in Back Loops only for this round,  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 4-12:  sc in each sc around  (12)
F/O and stuff leg moderately firm.  Leave open end.

Feet:  (make 2):
Using tan:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (15)
Rnd 4-10:  sc in each sc around  (15)
Rnd 11:  Sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 12:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
Stuff moderately firm,  don’t overstuff. 
F/O and weave end through last round,  gently pull to close.  Secure and weave in end.

Tail:
Begin with tan:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)
Rnd 6-10:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)
Stuff the tail portion lightly at this point,  don’t over stuff it,  it should have some volume,  but not be a ball.
Rnd 12:  sc in next  2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 13:  sc in next  sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around ,  change to purple color yarn in last stitch of round  (8)
Rnd 15:  Working in Front Loops Only for this round,  sc in each sc around  (8)
Rnd 16-38:  sc in each sc around,  stuffing moderately to shape as you progress  (8)
F/O but leave end open. 

Fingers for tail (make 3):
Using tan:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 3-4:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
Rnd 6:  working in Front Loops only for this round,  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (6)
F/O and stuff  very lightly if desired.

Sew the ‘fingers’ to the tail as shown in pictures.

Face inset:
Using tan:

Rnd 1:  Ch 11.  3 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  sc in next 8 chs,  3 sc in last ch.  Turn work so that you’re working along the unused side of the chain.  sc in remaining 8 sc of chain.  Join to first sc of round with slip stitch.

Rnd 2:  Ch 1,  sc in same sc as joining.  3 sc in next sc,  sc in next 10 sc,  3 sc in next sc,  sc in remaining 9 sc,  join to first sc of round with slip stitch.

Rnd 3:  Ch 1,  2 dc in same sc as joining,  2 dc in each of next 2 sc.  dc in next 3 sc,  sc in next 5 sc,  dc in next 3 sc,  2 dc in each of next 3 sc,  sc in remaining 10 sc.  Join to first dc with slip stitch.

Rnd 4:  Ch1,  sc in same stitch as joining and in next stitch,  2 sc in each of next 3 stitches,  sc in next 4 stitches,  slip stitch in each of next 5 stitches, sc in each of next 4 stitches,  2 sc in each of next 3 stitches,  sc in next 12 stitches,  join to first stitch of round with slip stitch.

F/O and weave in ends.  


Points (on top of head)
Make 2

Ch 14,  slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook.  Sc in next chain,  hdc in next chain.  Skip 2 chs and slip stitch to next ch.  Ch 6.  Slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch,  dc in next ch,  trbl in next ch,  skip 3 chs and slip stitch to next ch.  Ch 4,  slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook.  Sc in next chain,  hdc in next chain.  Skip 2 chs and slip stitch to last ch.

F/O and weave ends.  Match the two pieces with right sides facing out and whip stitch around the outside edges.


Final Assembly:

I HIGHLY recommend pinning all pieces together before sewing to make sure you have all pieces you need in the places you like and that everything is to your liking. 

Sew head to body (matching the two ‘neck openings’)  Sew  ears to either side of the head as shown, positioning as desired.   Sew the face inset to the front of the face,  evenly placed between the ears.   Some ‘stretching’ may be required to get the desired shape exactly as you want it,  pinning first is very helpful.

Sew the body inset to the front center of the body as shown.

Sew  arms to either side of the upper body near the ‘neck’.

Sew the feet to the bottom (closed) end of the leg as shown.  Sew open end of leg to the bottom of the body positioning as you like.

Sew Tail to back of body centered at the bottom.

Sew the points on top of the head,  centered between the ears.

Eyes and mouth are fairly simply shapes,  a larger circle of white with a smaller  circle of black.  Sew on as shown.   Mouth is white felt,  sew on as shown and using some black sewing thread,  create the ‘lines’ for teeth as shown.

Using black thread,  create the ‘toe’ line buy running a few stitches around the front of the foot to the center as shown.  

Aipom and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 
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