Skipper

Cute and Cuddly Boys!

Ok.  I am a HUGE Penguins of Madagascar fan.  These guys I'm doing for me mostly...  I actually purchased the yarn to make all four of them.  This is of course only Skipper,  but the other three will be following in the next couple of weeks.   (Give me at least a week between, maybe more ...  I can't work too much or I'll blow out my wrists again and I don't want to do that)

The pattern might seem a little strange when you first read it through,  but just take it one part at a time.   The beak particularly might give you fits,  but just keep at it... it took me a while to get it too,  but the work is worth it  :D

If you find any problems in the pattern,  or if you just get totally confuzzled,  let me know and I'll do my best to help you out!  

MATERIALS: 

 WW yarn in black and white,  with smaller amount in a medium orange

G Hook

Fiberfill

Sewing thread and needle

15 mm Googly Eyes  (or similar eyes of your choice)

NOTES:

Gauge is not important for this item

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

This pattern has some 'different' shaping.  It's helpful if you read through each section before you begin,  to try and get a feel for how the shaping is going to progress.   Remember that most often,  the final shape of the piece won't be noticeable until the stuffing process is done.

HEAD/BODY:

With black:

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)

Rnd 4:  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5:  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of next 4 sc,  sc in last 6 sc  (40)

Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 7: Working in Back loops only for this round, sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 8:  sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 9:  Sc in each of next 9 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 18 sc,  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each last 9 sc  (44)

Rnd 10-12:  sc in each sc around  (44)

Rnd 13:  sc in each of the next 10 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the next 20 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in each of the last 10 sc  (48)

Rnd 14-18:  sc in each sc around  (48)

Rnd 19:  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over the next 2 sc (repeat decrease one more time),  sc in each of next 20 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  (repeat decrease once more),  sc in each of last 10 sc  (44)

Rnd 20-21:  sc in each sc around  (44)

If you haven't already begun stuffing ,  this is a good place to start.  Stuff fairly firmly,  but don't overstuff.   Continue to stuff and shape the body as you progress.

Rnd 22:  sc in each of next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease one more time),  sc in each of next 18 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, (decrease one more time),  sc in each of last 9 sc  (40)

Rnd 23-32:  sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 33:  sc in each of next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 18 sc,  dec over next 2 sc, sc in each of last 9 sc  (38)

Rnd 34-39:  sc in each sc around  (38)

Rnd 40:  dec over next 2 sc around  (19)

Rnd 41:  dec over next 2 sc around,  sc in last sc  (10)

F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finalize shaping.  (Top of Skipper's head should be 'flat',  resembling a military style haircut)  Weave tail through last round of crochet,  pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in end.

WHITE FRONT SECTION:

Using white:

Rnd 1-8:  Same as for body 

Rnd 9:  sc in each sc around  (40)

Rnd 10: Slip stitch across first 4 sc. Ch 1,  sc in next sc.  Sc in each sc across to last 4 sc.  Turn work (leaving last 4 sc unworked)   (32)

Row 11-13:  sc in each sc across,  turn work at end of each row.  (32)

Row 14:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (30)

Row 15:  sc in each sc across  (30)

Row 16:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (28)

Row 17:  sc in each sc across  (28)

Row 18:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (26)

Row 19:  sc in each sc across  (26)

Row 20:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (24)

Row 21:  sc in each sc across  (24)

Row 22:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (22)

Row 23:  sc in each sc across  (22)

Row 24:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (20)

Row 25:  sc in each sc across  (20)

Row 26:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (18)

Row 27:  sc in each sc across  (18)

Row 28:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)

Row 29:  Dec over the first 2 sc,  sc across to last two sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)

Row 30:  sc in each sc across  (14)

Row 31:  2 sc in the first sc,  sc in each sc across to the last sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)

Row 32:  sc in each sc across (16)

Row 33: 2 sc in the first sc,  sc in each sc across to the last sc,  2 sc in last sc   (18)

Row 34:  sc in each sc across  (18)

Row 35: Chain 2, 2 dc in same stitch as turning.  hdc in next sc,  sc across to last 2 sc.  Hdc in next to last sc,  3 dc in last sc.

F/O.  Weave in end.

EDGING:

Attach yarn to center of back of the piece  (the last 'round' before beginning working in rows).   Chain 1 and sc in same stitch as joining.  Sc evenly around piece to 'top' corner.  3 sc in corner,  sc in next 2 sc.  Chain 2,  2 dc in same sc,   hdc in next sc,  sc in each sc across to last 5 sc.  Hdc in next sc,  2 dc in next sc, chain 2,  sc in each sc to corner,  3 sc in corner stitch.  Continue to sc around the edge evenly.  Slip stitch to first sc.

F/O. Weave in end.

WINGS (make 2):

Row 1:  Chain 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn  (5)

Row 2-4:  sc in each sc across, turn  (5)

Row 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in last sc, turn  (7)

Row 6-20:  sc in each sc across, turn  (7)

Row 21:  sc in first 5 sc of row,  dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)

Row 22:  sc in each sc across, turn  (6)

Repeat rows 21 and 22 until 3 sc remain in row

Dec over the 3 sc (1 sc left)

F/O.  Weave in ends.

FEET (make 4):

Using orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3:  * chain 6,  slip stitch in second chain from hook,  sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, trbl in last chain.  Skip one sc,  slip stitch in next sc * ,  repeat * to * twice more  (for three toes). Secure and F/O  weave in end   

Take two of the 'feet' and place them together, matching up the toes.   Using a long piece of the matching yarn and yarn needle,  whip stitch the two pieces together around the outside edges.   Secure and weave in ends.

LEG (make 2):

Begin with orange/yellow:

Rnd 1:  chain 6,  join to form a 'ring'.  Chain 1 and sc around change to white in last sc,  join to first sc of rnd.

Rnd 2:  Chain 1,  sc in same stitch as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc *  repeat from * to * around to beginning,  join to first sc with slip stitch.

Rnd 3:  Chain 1, sc in same sc as joining.  * 2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc  *   repeat from * to * around .   F/O and secure tail,  weave in end.  

(when working the leg,  you may have an 'odd' stitch left over in a round... this is ok,  just sc in that stitch and join to begin next round)

Sew the 'leg' portion to foot as shown  (orange section of leg is connected to 'foot')   

BEAK:

The instructions for the beak may seem confusing at first,  the increases are different than the 'standards'  because you're expanding the sides drastically, while keeping the top/bottom portions relatively even.  This will create a 'curve' shape and then on the last round,  you have to add the 'smile'  (or side portions of the beak).   If you get confused,  just take it one round at a time...  it may take you a few tries to get it right  (it did me too).  It does work,  it just might take a little practice to get it right.  I recommend working a little tight on the beak  if you normally crochet loosely.

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)

Rnd 3:  sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 DC in the next sc,   sc in each of the next 2 sc,  2 DC in the last sc  (8)

Rnd 4:  sc in each of the next 3 sc,  2 DC in the next sc,  sc in each of the next 3 sc,  2 DC in the last sc  (10)

Rnd 5:  sc in each of the next 4 sc,  in the next sc work the following [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in each of the next 4 sc,  in the next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc]  (14)

Rnd 6:  sc in each of the next 5 sc,  in the next sc,  work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in each of the next 6 sc,  in the next sc work [hdc, dc, hdc],  sc in last sc  (18)

Rnd 7: sc in each of next 7 sc,  chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, skip one stitch, slip stitch in next stitch,  sc in each of next 7 stitches,   chain 5,  slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next chain, skip one stitch, slip stitch in last stitch,  slip stitch to join to first stitch of round.

F/O,  weave in end.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend that you pin the pieces together before sewing anything,  to ensure that you're happy with the placement before making anything permanent.  The beak will need to be 'shaped'  as you pin...  by creating the 'scoops'  along the top of the beak,  and a slight 'smile' to the side portions as you pin.  Fiddle around with it till you're pleased with the overall look.

The white portion of the body fits over the bottom end of the black portion (the 'bowl' end of the white section should fit snugly over the bottom of the body portion).     The 'front' is stretched upwards towards the top of the head  (as shown).

The wings are placed on either side,   the sloped side of the wing faces to the back of the penguin,  with the flat end  attached to the body.  You can position the 'wings' in whatever position you prefer once they're attached to the body.

The feet/legs are sewn to the bottom,  with the feet pointing slightly outwards.  the legs should be fairly firmly stuffed ...  and if the stuffing seems to want to 'ooze' out while you're sewing the legs on,  just tuck it in as you go around.

For the Tail,  I just added a few satin stitches to the back side to give the illusion of a slightly pointed tail.  I used the same black yarn as for the body,  with a yarn needle.  

The beak is positioned as shown,  and sewn carefully to the white portion of the 'face'.  You'll need to 'create'  the scooped nose as you sew  (as you had pinned it on earlier).   I didn't find a need for any stuffing in the beak,  but if it helps you create the bridge of the 'nose' portion between the eyes,  then that's ok too.

The eyes are glued on fairly close to the point of the bridge of the 'beak'.   I used a simple glue stick at first,  just to temporarily place them until I was happy with them... then I used a permanent glue to adhere them after I had sewn all the other parts in place.

The 'brow' portion of the face is made by chaining 10 or 12  (depending on your tension),  and then slip stitch back across the chain.   Sew the brow into place as shown  (or to create the expression you like best)

Skipper and The Penguins of Madagascar are copyright DreamWorks and their respective creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (June  2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.